Graham456

That is a HP2m nothing like mk1 or mk2 which were larger and longer lasting than that THING ! anything from a modern supplier will improve your model depends on your skill level comet gearboxes are fairly easy to build I think DJH gearboxes might be to big for a terrier, Highlevel probably your best bet but a bit more fiddly if you have never built a gearbox before, the highlevel website has a useful gearbox size chart to give you a clue personally if they are OK I would reuse the wheels to keep it as period piece fancy wheels would be a waist of money as the cost would go a long way to better detailed rtr model and take away from feeling of a K's kits

With out looking it up this entrance arch is sounding like Bristol Bath road shed, not the sixties diesel shed nore the steam shed that preceded that one but the original first one demolished at the turn of the last century very Brunel ish in its build with fancy arch ways in to a square area surrounded by workshops a little bit like the workshops of the padarn railway at Lanbaris all this is pre the bridge across the river and road was built linking to st Phillips marsh

Giveing a shout out to both Porthmadog and Aberystwyth pubs, I call them pubs because whilst their in the station buildings they are no longer in use as the station ! think Aberystwyth weathspoons has the most lavatories cubicles for any pub ! Enough to deal with a excursion train load !

Ah Ha but he is lucky enough to have one of the later kits judgeing from the pictures which don't have the molded on handrails so that won't be a problem! But do look out for a preserveriance chassis kit for these kits or as I have found out you can remoter the currant brass overlay plastic chassis you have with markits wheels and a highlevel gearbox for a better running chassis, I got both of mine to run well during the first lockdown one with the plastic/brass chassis (couldn't get hold of a preserveriance brass chassis) and one with the aforementioned brass chassis

Not much help but as a fellow calne born rmweber I thought I would point out the booklet on the calne branch is No help on siphons! But the cover picture of a post man waiting with mail on the cover of The Calne Branch by Tanner 1972' also has a view of the Morris post office van that my dad went tobogganing down a hill in, writeing it off back in his younger days not to long after the cover shot!

A search back has found your answer on a very useful site called rmweb ! Steamport Southport posted Posted March 30, 2019 Never heard or seen one of these. Quick look in Ramsay's says... 1985 by Dapol. Only three types made and two of them are fictional. B26 B870074 1985 B180 B670006 1989 B102 LMS 173127 date unknown Went to Hornby 1996. But problems with the tooling meant they only made two further batches. Very short run of about 1000 each.

Sorry but it was unboxed,! i did find it on the net just after I bought it but I have had a year to forget ! Helpful I know

Going back to Dapol Meat Vans........BUT not as you know it ! I found in a junk shop in seaton last year pre lock down. a Dapol Meat Van, not the kit version But a RTR version, which at least lacks the chunky hinges in the one piece body moulding and blends in quite well with my kit versions the question is why did Dapol have such a short run in makeing this model RTR ? Dapol usually churn things out for ever ?

Well I suppose I am ! This i I can only state this for St Patrick (it must de near twenty year old model now) as I have, it had the slot for the gears and the slope cut for a XO4 including a tapped hole for the rear screw, and it looks just like a hall chassis, Haveing checked I used a hall pickup sprung wire and plate on the bottom, now awaiting the mines different from yours messages !

Catching up with this tread, if you change you mind about tender drive and want to convert it to loco drive, I did this to my st Patrick which I also made as a straight framed loco years ago by reinstalling a five pole mw1001 and triang gearing back in the holes left over from when. The chassis was used as the hall chassis with a X04 in it, this way I was able to cut down the huge coal mound in the tender to something a bit more normal looking, food for thought if you run out of things to do!

If that's the case! why do you have a sheep logo by your name with sticky out pannier type ears then Go On answer that !

Price? Prices for DCC Ready models are £129.95 each and DCC Sound models is £229.95 each. When you think of it thats cheaper than a K's kit goes for, when you add in the cost of decent wheels and motor,by a long way

I can sort of help here ! Whilst I didn't use my dublo chassis under 97xx keyser kits, perfering to use Bachman pannier chassis, but I have used quite happily the rods as supplyed under the wills U1 kit with all the romfords retaining flanges and under the triang chassied cardeen kit. I did ponder doubling up the thickness of the rods but didn't! The thinness doses allow flexibility to the wheel sets to go around curves,which doubling the thickness night not, but then to my eyes they look to thin coupling rods are not that thin in real life more like something that would scale out at around one millimetre being three or four inches thick approx! (Haveing to remember as I haven't had the real thing go past the back garden for nine months!

I to built this signal box for my layout, back in my school days came out all right ! Well as for how durable a card kit can be ? Despite house moves layout moves/changes it STILL exists, though it did lose a finial or two due to clumsy arms thankfully glue fixed that, but I like the photo copy's stuck on plasicard, you could still use the windows out of the kit P S I left school in 1978 so that kit has lasted 45 years near on

Up date thanks to my B & B being closed down this year that missing ingredient has turned up ! both kits are nearly finished chassis built ( one preseverance one brass overlays) Romford fitted yes that's Romford pre markits romfords from back in the days when you had to drill and tap them., highlevel gearboxes 60 to 1 on the front axel with the mashima pointing towards the smokbox , leaving the firebox and rear frames free to be filled with lead, I am close to seeing if I can make these kits work or will join the most of others made ingoing the display case !

Botheration !&@/'#%$¥ for sale one unfinished GEM KIT ,unfinished due to it Haveing the old white metal chassis which I don't like And no way could I compete with that Finnish ! moderators this is NOT a for sale notice it's a thank god I don't have to go there now statement makes a change for a rtr to come out before I have built the kit rather than after!

Just a update cutting the ends off was easy and reattaching simple just got to put the transfers on, when I decide which as the redemption hire transfers I have only suit single side door models... plan C ? Isn't decided yet the Loriot is done but not as well as gwrrob's as I lack a decent of wood colour paints, something that can be sorted post this next lockdown! I have been useing ancient enamel's some of which must be near thirty years old but are still good in the tinlet, wish modern enamel paints kept as well even when kept upside down with good clean lid seals,

Thanks for Such good news ? (Sarcasm) I still have one more hobby time kit in the stash and now your hinting their all obsolete Awaiting replacement with new and improved, not hard, the Hobbytime is a bit of its time .i wasn't going to built this last one but keep it a a souvenir of times past, perhaps your hinting that is even more likely to happen looking at the bogie alone shows how improved a new kit could be

Thanks But ! sadly I finished this kit off a few months ago! So all though their is the right one there unless I revisit the wagon your frustratingly to late. nice spot though

Well ! the downs bakery used to be all right for food and years ago my stepson who had dreams of sun kissed golden sands demanded to be taken their........ after climbing over the sea defences he was greeted by the sight of miles of mud flats,.well did have fun but I had to lead him to a stand pipe to hose him down before I would let him back in the car! Mum glorious Mud !thick and sticky black Mud cant be bothered to find out what this has to do with DJ Modeld ?

Thanks the transfers I have from POW sides "hire redemption"are only for the double end door type (I think?) suffering from information overload looking at jenkings Hyde book yesterday, have thought of surgery, end swapping but as I do middle time gwr modelling I would have to carve off the extra pressings on the as supplyed opening ends to make then as made condition , did you cut across the ends so the cut was in the side or with the blade going along the side so the cut was in the end? I suspect the former?

I am currently fiddling around with a wrenn Loriot P and the airfix 20T steel minerals, the Loriot P I have changed the wheels and couplings to the newer finer stuff and now wish to paint the decking wood colours as I under stand it wasn't painted grey on the real thing, but natural wood, But the end ramps have what look like two plates and the centre panel is scribed to look like wood planking, the top deck behind the buffer beam is also smooth like these panels on the sloped section, so are these parts painted gray? And the rest of the deck wood coloured ? The airfix 20t steel minerals I have filed the end door off and used Tee section plastic section to represent the end reinforcing strips as I understand these never had one end door in normal GWR livery, Haveing enough of these now. What other conversions can I do to this wagon as most of the big side door stuff seams to have both ends Haveing end doors neither of which is of the type moldeed on the wagon. All caused by my local junk shop in watchet Haveing loads of them. At £4 ! Thanks in advance P S I did a search 11 pages with no answer that I could see, happy to be proved blind if I am wrong and the answer is out their Graham

Well I would have thought not particularly for this kits sides, dut to aluminium being opaque and the side area quite large so that the light from the uv light source would not reach the vast majority of the glue through the closely fitting joints I can see how it would work on glass but not metal!

Footy after a long fruitless and answer less time, I went for useing a contact adhesive branded 151 as it claimed to be suitable for metal, well it worked which is what you wanted to hear tips I can give my kit like yours is old and had some corrosion from storage, this I cleaned up and then on the hidden surface to be glued used a course file to scratch the surfaces to help the glue stick I glued the inner ends inside the ends proper, whilst the ends were around the floor, this was to ensure the inner ends were up a bit and not flush with the bottoms of the sides to leave room for the floor when set as the floor has to be flush with the bottom of the sides. when set I added the middle sides and left to set the floor to side and inner ends joint was reinforced with bead of epoxy as their isn't enough surface contact area to rely on the contact adhesive brass shouldered pinpoint bearings fitted and then I used Hornby spoked wagon wheels as disc wheels are to new for me, final point........ENJOY P.S I used a spray can etched primer

Yes and I would love to know what the paint colour was used on these men so I can copy them on my crew