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Salmotrutta

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Everything posted by Salmotrutta

  1. The Digitrax makes the tail light dim so that's why I thought it might be worth a try. Sounds like it could be the transistor "leakage" that someone else suggested.
  2. Digitrax decoders can be set to illuminate the "tail light" at the same time as the head lights. I don't have a Hattons decoder to see if they also have hat function but if you reset the decoder (CV8 usually) that will stop that happening if it is the problem. I had a similar issue to you using bi-colour LEDs with an ESU decoder. However the same set-up with the same model of decoder in another loco did not do it. So it might just be something to do with that particular decoder behaving strangely.
  3. The long tube is the "sucker-upper" and the short one with the muslin near the jar top goes to the nozzle of your Hoover. You adjust suction by just loosely holding the tube in the vacuum end. Never throw away loose scatter material again! It's a "Skippy" peanut butter jar from Canada as it is plastic.
  4. I clean my layout with a giant "pooter" - it's based on a device we used to capture insects during biology classes. It's made from a peanut butter jar, two lengths of clear plastic tubing and some muslin (old nylon stocking). Basically it captures allthe stuff sucked up from the track and stops it going int o your Hoover. You can also re-cycle all the sucked-up stuff. I'll post a picture later on.
  5. I noticed that the inside of the tender in one of your photos is painted white. Very bizarre!
  6. Thanks for sharing the MR link - it was a joy reading it! Super 4 track - I remember it well.....
  7. I think that you have to pull the fibre out until it's a really thin sheet. An alternative might be to take the clump scenery and squish it flat on a plastic bag (so it doesn't stick) and soak it with matte medium. Once it's dried it should need less glue to stick on the branches.. Just a thought!
  8. You could try green polyfibre on the end of the branches glued with HoBeTac then hairspray / matte medium to glue on the coarse turf. That might be a bit more economical. But your trees look good as they are!
  9. Looking at the article in this month's Trains magazine it seems that he was in a hurry to get things going at CSX - I wonder if he was already feeling his age and realised that he'd taken on a very big project that required a lot of stamina. He certainly was a force in Canadian railroading and will be remebered for that. As w124bob says, it's sad for his family.
  10. Yes I read that there are instances of the "ends of the body" cracking - obviously due to expansion. Perhaps it's time for a "Rapido quaity" class 31 - especially as they were so ubiquitous. Thanks for your help!
  11. Thanks for the insight! Yes it is the all-wheel drive version so I'm loth to chuck it away. I was considering epoxy-ing the broken bits back on but I think your suggestion is superior. I will add it to my "to be bodged" pile; along with the SBB EMU that was a dubious bargain from eBay...
  12. Just as I was upgrading my green 31 to TTS sound there was nasty crack on assembly and the chassis snapped. Having investigated the "Mazak rot / zinc pest" list I find that the solution is to replace the chassis with a Lima one. However I would guess that the replacement now would be the Hornby Rail Road 31. Anyone out there actually done this and prepared to share the experience before I throw money and time at this project? It would be a shame to junk it as, like the curate's egg, it's still "good in parts".
  13. Unfortunately it's exactly the same on the tester now - so I have dropped a line to Hornby. However as of this morining, it has become moot as the chassis has snapped - it sems that it is infested with Mazak rot...
  14. Just been fitting a TTS chip to a super detailed 31 - swapped the speaker for an iPhone 5 and it ran beautifully on my ESU test bed. However as soon as I installed it it moved about an inch and the z21 cut out. Now it will only play sounds in forwards with no motor and in reverse the sounds play for about 5 seconds then the z21 trips out. I fear it's fried. Dropped a line to Hornby UK as Hornby US don't deal with the TTS chips. Woe is me...
  15. Driving past here was the only time in my life I got a speeding ticket - 2 kph over the limit and a fine of 20 SFR. But the visit to the museum was worth it!
  16. until
    Event Name: Amherst Railway Society’s Railroad Hobby Show Classification: Exhibition Address: The Eastern States Exposition Fairgrounds1305 Memorial AvenueWest Springfield MA. 01089 USA Day 1: 27th January 2018 Opening times Day 1: 9:00am - 5:00pm Day 2: 28th January 2018 Opening times Day 2: 10:00am - 5:00pm Prices: Adults: $15.00 per dayChildren 15 and under: FREE Accompanied by an Adult EASTERN STATES PARKING: $5.00 per day Disability access: Yes Car parking: Yes Website: Organising body: Amherst Railway Society Organiser: Amherst Railway SocietyP.O. Box 247Monson, MA 01057-0247P: (413) 267-4555E: ShowOffice@amherstrail.org This is an advance notice about the ETE Eastern New England chapter’s plans to sponsor a EuroEast exhibition at the upcoming Amherst Railway Society’s Railroad Hobby Show at the Big E Exposition Center in West Springfield, MA on January 27 & 28, 2018. We are especially excited that Märklin USA will be attending the show for the first time and will be co-located with the chapter’s layout in the Mallary Building. Some of the displays and activities that are planned for the Euro East exhibition are: Eastern New England Chapter layouts: large H0 modular 3-rail layout, Bergbahn 2-rail DCC layout, and meter gauge Swiss themed layout. Kids’ layout, where children can operate an H0 scale train Märklin USA exhibit with demonstrations of Märklin products Multiple sellers of European model trains from a variety of manufacturers Clinics on subjects of European model railroading; 6 clinics are planned for the 2-day show Social gathering and dinner on Saturday evening of the show at the Munich Haus restaurant in Chicopee, MA. For general information about the 2018 Amherst Railway Society’s Railroad Hobby Show, please see their website at http://www.railroadhobbyshow.com/ The website contains a list of hotels in the area that offer discounted rates to those attending the show. The current list of discounted accommodations can be found at http://www.railroadhobbyshow.com/attendingtheshow.php#accomo Please mark your calendars and join us for this exciting weekend of European model railroading!
  17. Yes but further apart so you could probably get away without using the heat shrink - just a bit of tape instead.
  18. I solder onto the two little tags in the picture. I slip some heat shrink over at least one of the leads to stop it shorting. The next time I open up one of the locos I'll take some pictures. I also got some iPhone 5 speakers but they are a bit big.
  19. Yes I'm thinking of re-visiting the lighting with separate LEDs for each light as bleed from the single light is a problem. For the following 2 sound fittings I have used an iPhone 6 speaker - slightly mutilated to fit - seems to give a better sound than the ESU speaker. And very cheap at $2 each from China.....
  20. You have led me into temptation.....Ordered the weathered one as that's how I remember them!
  21. Hi Kevin - running with the pantographs on the wire is easy and looks much better than tied down. Especially when they bob up and down under each mast.. I don't run the catenary in tunnels or in the un-sceniced parts of the layout - I bend the code 100 rail up at the end to force the pantograph back down to the wire (the thing with the red blob on the end - to stop me poking out an eye) . The mast is a commercial "tunel-oberlietung" from one of the model shops in Basel. It uses code 100 rail upside down - I file a slope in the end that attaches to the wire - you might be able to see it in one of the tunnel photos. Below are some pages from the Sommerfeldt instructions for catenary - PM me if you would like me to send you a scan that you can actually read. They also make a tool that helps you place the masts - but there is also a diagram to help you make one yourself. Are you running any of the other lines as DM says? I can look to see if there is any special instructions for them. Mine is all RhB.
  22. Thanks for this - I was wondering how to get the connectors as they are stupidly expensive on postage from Germany! I found them on https://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=237119341&uq=636396333182855132 They also deliver internationally.
  23. I now have several of the 3288 series Glacier express coaches - one actually had lights from new and I only found out when I went digital and they lit up! However they also shine through the roof so I'm going to have to do some internal painting... I'm thinking of getting some "el cheapo" SMD LED strip to illuminate the others - before I start I'm just asking if anyone has already fitted the strips. I also have some of the ESU kits with the built-in decoder but I don't want anything that sophisticated (or expensive) - just being on all the time is fine for my purposes. If I don't hear anything then I'll blaze a trail and take some photos of my installation.
  24. I have now re-wired the locos so that there is a separate LED for the single rear white light. The red lights are now set to come on in the sound equipped loco when it is stopped and the brake sound is activated - fun fiddling with the LokProgrammer...
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