LMSfan72

If I am understanding correctly I think it comes down to the mechanical design of the drawer runner. Those used on actual drawers will have the bearings orientated to take the load “vertically”. If they are rotated then the load is not as designed and they may not be smooth/work or fail. I think of the 2 piece IKEA ones I have. They wouldn’t work at all in the other plane since the vertical load keeps them in contact. Others might of course!

Thanks, I see that. It seems only available in enamel. I will try some but I prefer acrylics so I think I might pick up a few Vallejo acrylics for comparison in the hope of finding a match otherwise it’s going to be a lot of practicing!

Well, I did the same with 607 so I have decided that it will turn HNRC orange. Now, who recommends an acrylic orange??!

Looking at how the shift occurs at the top of the opening I think it’s the change in area across the top of the corridor that changes the sticking forces considerably at that layer. I would add supports and try a different orientation

Also the same for the MS. Yes, my bad, wrong way round from memory which is why checking the manual is important. The reason CV8=0 is not recommended is it screws the sound project settings as it goes back to the factory setting defaults. In this case I agree, as they are the defaults for the OO projects as you said.

I think with Zimo, but check the manual, that CV8 = 8 goes back to factory but means sounds are unlikely to work properly until CVs are readjusted, and CV8=0 sets it back to sound project defaults

Good Morning All Looking to repaint 37607 into HNRC orange. I've seen an enamel but I prefer airbrushing acrylics. Does anyone know the correct colour code, or indeed a matching product? I'm sure I saw a post on the forum a few months go but I can't find it now! Many Thanks Andy

I couldn't get the light lenses out easily so rather than strip I just repainted the noses. I couldn't quite get rid of the old paint line, but, I'm pretty happy with the noses. Flashes to add and reassembly tomorrow...

I would expect it to be CV53 and I’d think it would be 32 for bidirectional

I don’t know how the built in speaker connects but the txs needs the speaker to be plugged into its socket - does it do that?

I'd check that the decoder is definitely seated correctly. Did you check what the CV mapping was on the Imperium before install and/or if it works in another loco/tester??

On the no -wipac ones it shouldn’t be described as to switch the headlight off, which really means it’s a redundant function. I modified mine so that it is the dashboard light being turned on and not the headlight being turned off.

Have you checked the dip switches underneath to ensure they are on correctly - they completely isolate the decoder from the circuit if they are off?

There are only 3 versions of the 21 pin chip and only the MKL version has different function outputs to the other two; from the manual: "For Decoder 58449 AUX3, AUX4 @ 21MTC interface are powered outputs. For Decoder 58419, 58429 AUX3, AUX4 @ 21MTC interface are Logic level outputs" I certainly use the Loksound V5 and the V5DCC version interchangeably from a function perspective

Interestingly, I had the same issue when I loaded the ESU files. I spent ages trying to work through the CVs to see what was doing it. The decoder lights worked in the tester just not the loco! I didn't change the DIP switches (didn't even consider it!!). However, I did read the CVs from an Accurascale sound chip and saved them. I then loaded those CVs to the ESU project chip and the lights worked - I did, however, then have to go back through and change all the function mapping as the sound slots were different, and the speed settings, volumes etc...... I still can't work out what caused it. But, I did save my settings so I can just load them in to a new chip in the future! Oh, and the flange squeal works.

Just a note: if you use it on a 37/4 with the single high intensity you need to replace AUX7 and AUX8 with AUX5 and AUX6 otherwise the headlight turns off when the instrument lights go on

It’s a case of remapping the functions. I’ve posted the logic I used in earlier posts on here. It’s easiest to do with JMRI or a Lokprogrammer

There is a little ON on the switch surround. The "high" bit of the switch should to that side.

Loco actually going back to Accurascale for another reason

My 602 exhibited squeaking on my rolling road running in. Video is with the Accurascale team for advice. Very fast acknowledging via chat support

Yes, it’s a full smart meter - I am on a smart tariff so it’s actually multi rate (not sure it’s just 2) and sends half hourly readings back to the provider.

I have a 3-phase smart meter, installed last year, arranged through Octopus.

Here's how I did the additional functions. My earlier post shows how I just blanked the pads for the tail and markers so that one end used V+ and the other end used V1+. This mod blanks the whole of V+ and V1+ at one end and replaces it with a pad controlled by another decoder function, AND, replace the Q5 pad at the other end with a similar function. The two 0805 SMD resistors are soldered across the DIP pin holes, they are the perfect size! As you look at them the upper one is 22K (marked 223) and the lower is 2.2K (marked 222). I was too eager to get it done to think about stopping to take pictures as I went and I don't want to keep taking it apart, but, I think these probably work a bit better. The additional challenge was making sure the mapping of the outputs worked how I wanted them to! - and remembering to change the setting that has AUX10 as a wheel sensor input to get it to work....

Success. I now have fully independent DCC switching of all directional lights. I used a Loksound 5 FX with AUX9 and 10 logic level outputs connected directly to the decoder pads so that I didn't need to mod the Caroline PCB. I used a LaisDCC amplifier circuit to bring these up to full power outputs and then I used the same circuit that switches Q2 - as in my traced diagrams in the above posts - to switch a positive voltage. By using Kapton tape to blank off the old contact pads and copper tape across the top to create new ones - and solder wires to from the "new" switched voltage outputs - it is fully reversible so no PCB mods at all. The small circuits/PCBs are "bundled" in with the decoder and speaker in the kitchen area which has a blind down on my Network Rail version so nothing can be seen. I remembered to make AUX10 an output rather than a sensor input and then remapped the functions so it's not too many buttons!

I didn’t expressly say it because I was focused on the main marker and tail lights….. The search lights are controlled in a similar way to the red lights. So, - the white markers have a permanent positive connection to V+ - the reds have a switchable positive connection by AUX2 providing voltage to V1+ - the search lights have a switchable positive connection by AUX4 providing voltage to Q5 - all directions are controlled by the F0f and F0r outputs on the negative side of the lighting circuits So, this means that my mod that disables markers and tails at End2 does not disable the search lights. The only way to do this is to provide another function to switch one of the Q5 pads. My development to make End1 also switchable would therefore need to be duplicated to do that too…..……I thought I’d done it today but I seem to be struggling with getting AUX10 to work at all; wondering if I broke the decoder function…..another go tomorrow!