Albie the plumber

I think I cut the metal.with the chassis insitu. I may have used kitchen roll to stuff between chassis and gears and I probably removed the wheelset .The motor IIRC is enclosed by the casting so that was OK. I did it during the lockdown along with a whole load of other projects so it was a good while back and my memory fails me a bit .

Really great job ! You've certainly achieved your objective of getting sound into a Teddy Bear without major surgery . Not an easy loco to work on , in fact , quite horrid ! I found a pic I posted on a Facebook group that showed my attempt at sound and stay alive , I did have to take a hacksaw to the smaller bonnet in order to get sugar cube and stay alive in , All in all , it works very well but not easy as you know . To get a speaker as large as yours was quite an achievement so well done !

If it's an ESU loksound chip , then CV 63 is the CV to adjust The V4/V5 chips adjustment goes from 0 to 192 . The higher the value, the higher the volume . However , it might be a ZIMO chip , if it is , F2 is likely to be a brake function. Not sure what CV is used to alter the volume on a ZIMO . It might be worth going through the function list and putting them on this forum . Most will be able to tell who's sound project and what chip it is HTH

I would be very surprised if ZIMO didn't do a sound project for that loco . I believe they have a list from which you can download the relevant sound. Alternatively, you could contact soneone like Digitrains who will probably be able to help you . I intend to do the same for my W&M railbus with a VT95 schienenbus project which may sound a bit more authentic than current British offerings HTH .

Looks like it was weathered by a YTS trainee

I wanted to fit an EM 2 to my 40 a good while back but , having put the chip on the decoder tester and the EM2 under the empty bodyshell , I found the sound quite disappointing with said speaker. Sadly, it just didn't suit Biffs sound project , not to my ear at least.

At the model world LIVE in Brum and of particular interest to me was the 00 gauge class 02 . Got a couple of close up shots thru the glass case ( sorry , but I'm no David Bailey and it looks good and , having spoken to Ben Jones , he has said the 00 model WILL have shunting lights . Result ! Delivery expected in the autumn.

If you look through the previous couple of pages , you'll see the reaction is overwhelmingly positive . Unlike the PWMs , the class 11 have lights , have no body fit issues and run as sweet as a nut . Obviously made in a different factory

You would think that someone like Exteme etchings would do an etch for that . Anyone doing a Blue ,pre TOPS class 25 like me , will always have the smooth front end to deal with not to mention removing those blooming dominoes.

Sounds like a ZIMO / Digitrains project . Could be wrong though .

I'm assuming you have an 8 pin version ? The later 21 pin version simply plugged straight in to the PCB above the worm drive . There is room between front of motor and rear of grille but beware of the protruding motor shaft at the front which spins of course. Fashioning a plasticard shield between decoder and motor shaft would be a wise move .

Tubby Brush alert ⚠️ 😁

Certainly looks good from that angle 👍

The video highlighted the raggedness between the Blue and Yellow . He wasn't kidding was he .

What are the odds that they one day make an 'improved ' version in a couple of years as they did with the '33 ?

Indeed it was Roy , but we both plumped for one when the price came down to what we deemed to be acceptable . Some of the errors highlighted with Heljans 47 may well be 'overlooked' when the price comes down as it inevitably will .

I think light bleed through the blinds was quite common so it could be described by some aa prototypical.

Or put another way , accuracy is in the eye of the beholder. Same thing to me . We're discussing semantics now . Gone off topic .

I would imagine you will get a shed load of replies on this subject. I use Krystal Klear when i use lazerglaze but I'm sure Liquid glaze will do the job . While Lazerglaze is a great product . it does IMO need a little practice to do well . HTH

I didn't 😁

Accuracy, like beauty , is all in the eye of the beholder

Not to mention track that is too narrow {00} and train set curves

Haven't heard anything as yet . If you get notifications from their FB page you could ask the question . They're usually very good at replying I've learnt to take delivery dates for models from all manufacturers with a large pinch of salt . Always over optimistic leading to disappointment when predicted delivery dates come and go . Worse still, you get modellers insulting modellers when legitimate questions are asked ( see the SLW class 25 thread/ debacle to see what I mean ) and where some individuals have assumed the role of moderator. Very unedifying in what is at the end of the day , a hobby .

Agree with your views but sadly , there doesn't seem to be any room for 'different' on this thread . Just the usual self righteous claptrap from the usual self righteous suspects . And that is definitely my last word on this pointless thread which throws up nothing useful whatsoever .

This is a great post and a great help too . My 07 will be getting the sound treatment so this is invaluable! Thanks for posting this .