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peterm1

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Everything posted by peterm1

  1. peterm1
    I use the method that Nigel has described about a twin power supply. It works really well with SPDT switches and you can also use one of the inbuilt Tortoise switches for frog polarity.
  2. peterm1
    How did you go with the answers from me and Nigel Cliffe?
  3. peterm1
    It's a weird one, but clutching at straws; is DC running disabled?
  4. peterm1
    I have Hornby loco's where the wires are all black and others where the red is connected to the left wheels instead of the right. So it seems like Raffertys rules for wiring. Having said that, I've corrected the wiring in most of the loco's that have been wrong, just for my own satisfaction. But which is the A or B end of my Bachmann DP2???
  5. peterm1
    Yes, that's about the only exception I can think of.
  6. peterm1
    If you want the cap's out, simply cut them off. If you want the inductors out, you have to replace them with wire.
  7. peterm1
    Sorry Andrue, but I really don't think using a frog juicer is the answer. It might seem to be complicated to use the switches in the stall motors, but it's not.
  8. peterm1
    RFS has given the answer. 🙂
  9. peterm1
    That's how I do it for diamonds and slips.
  10. peterm1
    Yep. I've never found the need to use frog juicers. An answer to a problem that doesn't exist. Tortoise for me every time.
  11. peterm1
    I've had this problem more than once with quartering. Living in Australia, I tend to sort things out for myself, so I bought the NWSL quartering jig. When this happens and I track down which wheel it is ,I correct that one and see how it goes. Any tightness, and the others are fixed. I think you'd be surprised at how often this happens, particularly with the price of this stuff.
  12. peterm1
    The same thing happened when I ballasted my track. Nothing to worry about. I used the DCC Concepts method of ballasting which uses Meth's rather than detergent to spray and mix the pva with.
  13. peterm1
    Spot on. I resurrected an old split chassis J72 that had worn through the bearings/pickups with a Zimo decoder. I made phosphor bronze pick ups for. It sounds like a coffee grinders but runs as smooth as silk. If a Zimo can't fix it...
  14. peterm1
    You can go to the Zimo web site and have a trawl through, but it depends on what the author puts on in the way of features.
  15. peterm1
    ebay or amazon might be your friend here. They are JST. 2.5mm plugs and sockets with wires.
  16. peterm1
    Does the decoder/sound file have a means to rev the engine without the loco moving? Sometimes called speed lock
  17. peterm1
  18. peterm1
    Claud Butler bikes. Myself and my mates always wanted one of those. Centre pull brakes and Campag' gears. Never happened though.
  19. peterm1
    £30.00! Was it something really special? Digitrains charge £15.00 for a downloaded project. I get mine for £12.50 because I'm in Australia.
  20. peterm1
    Was it!!! 😮
  21. peterm1
    I think battery replacement is the first step. It must be the cheapest and easiest thing to start with.
  22. peterm1
    Thanks for posting that. I'll see if I can get a water scene of some sort on my layout.
  23. peterm1
    I know very little about ESU decoders, but I think I read on here that you have to actuate the stay alive with one or more CV changes.
  24. peterm1
    We used to be able to pool our bus money and get a 3 pack of players weights. I think we could buy a book of matches too.
  25. peterm1
    One of the best boxes out there. Quick change with no clutch. Smooth as silk.
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