down the sdjr

I should have said, the station i am modelling opened in 1864, the 2nd platform not in the picture was added later and indeed has the step. Thank you, TheQ.

I have started using plasticard and Slaters brick sheets, the thing i like about plasticard is its easily sanded to get the curves right, i also sand the ramp tops in for a smooth finish.

When i was a boy i found this boot scraper near the bridge when they were building the bungalows. No idea if it came from the station, probably not, but i like to thing so.

The S&D closed before i was born. My family moved to Blandford in 1980, they had just started building bungalows on the station site. I was train mad and spent my youth walking up and down the old line around Blandford, Shillingstone,etc. The S&D has been a life long interest for me and to see photos i have never seen before is such a delight. On my searches on the web i have seen a few other pictures taken around the iron bridge with a similar style to this one , i presume you might have taken these as well. Thank you again. Paul.

I guess damage is inevitable but can repair and replace. Good advice,thank you.

Funny thing is, im a plumber by trade so have done a fair bit of soldering in my time, but that has made me aware of heat spread and damage. Going to practise on some off cuts of track before i attempt anything on the point. Thank you for all the advice, i am here to learn.

The set is in the instructions under optional extras, i will give it a go on the next one.

Hope you dont mind me posting this here, great thread, wonderful work and very informative. I am currently building my first CL Finescale kit. I have never done anything like this before as i was modelling in Peco 00 streamline up until now. The kit has a great set of instructions with it perfect for a beginner like me, much less daunting than i thought it would be. I have to move the switch blades a bit and i am not looking forward to the soldering. I have ordered some Carrs 145 solder and flux but a bit nervous to say the least. Should i buy a adjustable tempature iron? as i only have a cheap one at present. Thanks Paul.

Looks really good. What black paint did you use? I need to re spray a ruston in black and was thinking Halfords matt spray can???

I made an order just over a week ago,arrived today, and i must say how well packaged it was.

I am glad you took the photo, very nice picture and history captured. Hope you dont mind that i posted it.

If it is a 4F, i thought they did not work the southern section late on, more likely a 3mt or such like. I must confess i have no idea on the date of the photo, hence why i posted.

I found this photo on the internet,i hope i am not breaking any rules posting it. Looks like a 4f loco but not sure, does anyone know details of the wagons, train, brake van etc? Its a really nice picture who ever took it.

Those 3d prints will get rid of the round mould marks on the kit ends. I am going to try making my own roofs, the originals are too thick and never seem to sit flush, i have tried sanding them and its better, but not perfect. I also try to scribe in the planking near the duckett that seems to be miss moulded. Have you done the Dapol lowmac? i find the wheels are a really bad fit on them / out of square and derail a lot. Thanks.

You make these Dapol brake van kits look so good, I have built a couple so far and struggle with the finer details, really like the roofs, I think i need to take more time on models, i have a tendancey to rush through things. Lovely modelling.

Hi Stuart, really nice drawings would love to see some others. I cant find much information on Stur goods yard or the creamery, only a few shots with them in the background and then only partial. Really nice work. Paul.

Love Peco point motors, as you say a satisfiying clunk. I always add a peco accessory switch below the point motor to change the polarity to the frog and use a CDU.

Looking forward to seeing progress on this, it looks great. Paul.

Point rodding before ballast everytime.

Built the lean too next to the toilet block, platforms coming along and scenery to the south of the station.

Impossible to paint and weather track without the ballast glued in place, also watch out for sneezing.

Having way too much time on my hands i have made the decision to convert from 00 gauge to EM, i must be mad.

Hi Jack, why not put a double slip nearer to the road to give you more track for shunting, a bit like the piano plan? If the point is nearer the center of the layout you can shunt a longer train?

Sorry, can i ask just one question? If i built some P4 / EM track could i alter a RTR loco such as a Bachmann 4f or 3f jinty? I guess thats what you are dicussing on the thread,sorry if i am being a bit layman. Paul. Edit to add, is this what i have asked? http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/4f_easichas.htm

Sorry to post my random thoughts on this thread but i really like the look of P4. I am starting to scratch build platforms etc in 00 and the out of scale gauge track is really noticeable to me now, i think one day i will have to give P4 a go, looks like a lot of hard work. Sorry to interrupt. Paul.