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auld_boot

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Everything posted by auld_boot

  1. Also I think M&M Models will sell separate castings from their kits, they do sell solid buffers although I don't think they're listed on the website. http://www.modelrailwaywagons.co.uk/
  2. For etched steps I doubt you will get better than these, but they come at a price. http://www.phd-design-etchings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_35_67&product_id=179 Other than that I would suggest getting in touch with Just Like the Real Thing (via email) as they are happy to sell parts from their kits. http://justliketherealthing.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=89 It might even be worth phoning Howes of Oxford to see if they have any remaining Heljan spare sprues, there are none listed on their site currently but I have had luck in the past by talking to them. https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/subCat/Heljan%20UK David Parkins does a handy loco fittings set but I have no idea if any of the fan grills in it are suitable for a Hymek. https://www.djparkins.com/product.php?productid=18234&cat=307&page=1
  3. I think that could be the gussets under the doors, to allow for footsteps if/when they were fitted. As on this example, some inspiration for weathering perhaps?!
  4. I believe this is a Speckled Wood, taken a couple of weeks ago in a field just outside Aberporth.
  5. You might want to start your rethink by flipping the photo, there's appears to be some text on the building on the left that looks to me like it's reversed.
  6. Also it looks to me like you have the insulated rim wheels on the wrong side, I think the spring pick-ups on the bottom of the chassis should be running against just the rims of the insulated wheels.
  7. "one final question, my model has the wrong bogies, do Hornby do suitable ones on any coaches in their range?" I don't know if Hornby do the correct ones but if not take a look at Replica Railways site as they do bogie kits for a few different types, could be something there suitable.
  8. I was very happy to see this comment 'First we now have some 7mm RH 48DS kits, £50 + £4 postage', that is very tempting, but does it mean we are one step closer to being able to order a 7mm PWM650?
  9. That's exactly my point! If the only visible difference is the jackshaft and its mounting then I can easily work with that for PWM650 i.e. build the rods without jackshaft and the mounting hole can be filled/plated over, the mounting will be hidden behind that monster set of rear steps anyway. The only other thing I think might need to be added for 650 is the lubricator and I have a feeling that moved sides during it's life with BR.
  10. Sorry if I have missed this in the thread, I'm not aware what differences there are between DM and DE (other than jackshaft) so will the first one be suitable for PWM650?
  11. Now that the dust has settled (so to speak) in this thread, how is the 7mm RH 165 coming along?
  12. Hi Michael, I promise you won't be held to it as a commitment, but I'm trying to plan my Christmas present list so is the 7mm PWM650 likely to be available this side of Christmas?
  13. I've used 4 or 5 wooden clothes pegs in the past, cut a shallow slot in the face of one side to hold the valence square (there might be some wastage of pegs trying to cut straight and square, there was for me anyway!). Then with all the pegs holding it in place you can adjust and tack solder it in place in-between the pegs. Suitable size angle is a much easier option if you don't mind adding to the cost.
  14. There are oo kits available here (no connection etc.) http://www.nbrasslocos.co.uk/ooloco.html
  15. 7mm versions of these headlights would be of great interest to me if you would consider producing them please. But please note that the mounting plate appears to be very slightly angled so as to aim the light beam downwards. It looks like the slight angle was common to all locos, it can be seen on this class 37.
  16. Hi Jazz, I've tried searching your thread but at 85 pages I'm not having much luck finding the key bit I want to see, so could you please advise how you elongate the holes (so clean and neatly!) for the centre bearings on your six wheel tender chassis? I'd also be interested to know how much movement you think is needed. I'm about to attempt scratch building some bogies for a class 31 diesel and I'm thinking maybe the centre (smaller) wheels being sprung might be the route to go. Thanks in advance, Darren aka auld_boot
  17. Thanks. I assume you have record of class 31 repaints? If it is 31280 then the photo was taken on 27th March 1986, that's the only record I can find of me seeing 31280 stabled at Taunton.
  18. Close up shots of an unidentified 31 stabled at Taunton, after a shunting session judging by the shunters pole on the buffer/pipes. EDIT: 31280 on 27th March 1986
  19. Both ends of set B962 Heading west towards Taunton. And later the same day heading back towards Bristol
  20. A slightly blurry hybrid set heading towards Cogload Junction from Taunton.
  21. Class 101 on what I assume is a special as at that time Bristol-Taunton DMUs were 2 or 3 coach, taking the Bristol line at Cogload junction. There's four first class sections in this train.
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