Captain Kernow

Don't forget the TVR rebuilt 'A' class, still available from Brian at Branchlines (was Nu-Cast Partners). Do you not think that Bachmann might be tempted to produce the 54XX and 74XX as well?

Going Continental now, are we?!

Oddly enough, my J70 ran fairly well, although I didn't realise it was a coreless motor when I owned it. What sealed it's fate, though, was that the back-to-backs were set at 15mm, not 14.5mm and it wouldn't go through the OO-SF part of my layout. It ended up in a parcel of other items being sent to Hattons...

I must have been very unlucky, Paul! But in my experience, not every manufacturer, when asked on this forum whether the loco has a coreless or cored motor, is able to answer the question... As for the Gaugemaster HH, that (together with my AMR slow-speed hand-held controller) has been a saving grace in terms of one or two of my locos with cored motors, which run noticeable better with it. These days, I have at least a feedback and non-feedback controller handy for any exhibition or home running session.

I had a bad experience with the running on my Rapido Hunslet 0-6-0ST and in the end, it went back to the retailer and I declined to take a chance on another one. Yet now, having seen a friend's example running very sweetly on a normal Gaugemaster DC panel-mounted controller, I am wondering if I should give it another go. But probably not unless I can be 100% sure of picking up a really good runner.

Couldn't agree more, my suspicion is that these modern coreless motors are somehow designed with DCC in mind, rather than us dinosaurs who so inconveniently insist on sticking with DC...

Interesting cloud formation over Brent this evening:

There are so many 'horror stories' about folk not being able to make DCC work as they want it to, various functions not working etc., that I am permanently put off, I'm afraid!

I'm not the person wearing two trousers any more...

Having used Smiths links, in various forms for 30 years or so, I have the following observations: - I normally put a 'fine' link between the first link (the one in the hook) and the end link - I tend to us a normal link for the first link (in the hook), purely because with the fine links, you sometimes get difficulty lifting that link freely over the front curve of the hook. Reducing the depth of the hook by filing some material off the front is one way around this - I did switch to using the finer links for the end link, but found these more difficult to use under exhibition conditions, so switched back to using the 'normal' links - I always, without fail, now fit steel end links now and use a magnetic shunting pole wherever I can. The use of magnetic shunting poles has absolutely transformed the use of 3-link couplings, for me, it was a real game-changer.

I am very sorry about Timmy's Bottom.

Unfortunately Ultrascale wheels tend not to be as tight on the axles as Gibson ones, but if you can get the quartering back 'just so', then the thing to do would be to pin the wheel on the axle.

You mean the houses in these places or just the places themselves, Johnster? Don't forget the Rhondda Tunnel and North Rhondda Platform!

I think this is simply the best running RTR loco I've ever seen.

When I say 'bendy', one of mine had a pronounced upward bend, the other starting to bend in a similar fashion.

But I did have to replace the plastic tiebars on the open, which were rather bendy, with brass ones, other than that, it's looking great.

Tony - presumably you were also aware of Bachmann Spares offering all kinds of bits and pieces, including B1 tender bodies in BR black - https://Bachmann-spares.co.uk/category/2-branchline-steam-parts/b1/body-parts

I like the idea of the wooden clamping arrangements, Lez and thanks for the suggestion, but I fear I haven't got the space for something like that. The safety glasses are always a 'must', however.

I've no doubt that you find it simple enough, Paul, but I have trouble understanding basic DC electrics, never mind DCC. It's like other stuff too, such as new software. I really need to get some trackplans drawn up in Templot in the near future, but I know that I will never get my mind round the software and I also begrudge the (inevitable) waste of time, trying to understand it. I'd rather be cutting and gluing bits of plasticard etc....

Plus the fact that some of us simply don't have the kind of brain that understands the necessary alchemy to achieve DCC success. For me, DCC will forever remain a closed book...

Reminiscent of the branch through the Wyre Forest?

Interesting to see the underside of the baseboard, too! Is that an Ikea product?

Even if (like me) you don't have ready access to a set-up lathe, it is still possible to turn the older Romford flange down to a more acceptable profile, like the Markits wheel in the centre, using no more than an electric drill, a suitable needle file and a piece of fine wet & dry paper. I was doing precisely that last week, before my plans became stymied by my inability to remove some glued-in crankpins from the wheels concerned. The above procedure only took minutes for each wheel, although undertaking such an operation with a mains electric drill on your own lap is done at one's own risk, of course, with appropriate PPE being a good idea too. If you do have access to a lathe, however, then dealing with the older Romford flanges ought to be even easier.