Sidecar Racer

Nothing as yet I'm afraid , I know it still works as a friend of Stu's came round a couple of months

ago to see it and we had some things running , but I still cant get the enthusiasm to get on with

things either on the layout or the workbench .

 I'll have to try and kickstart something .

I know just what you mean Al , I had to rearrange a lot of track work to install our

bay platform and branch line, we now have a crossover on a curve to get from bay to main

as there was not enough space to get in a better place as it crosses over a board joint,

There is a bit to much much wrong way working for my total satisfaction but it is what it is .

At least the branch to main junction was easier and is true to approved standards for this type

of junction .

Fair comment Al , I was working on you going direct to the bay from the branch .

Hi Al ,

just my two pence worth with the plans , on both you have a lot of wrong road running to

get back into the bay platform from the branch , to me , plan two is the better option to go

with to get the  double track main line , but you would need to cross the bay out line over to

 the main in line, either a pair of standard points or a double slip would do this ,this gives

minimal wrong line travel ,then you  could remove the existing crossover in the main lines .

 Hope that makes some sort of sense , or maybe put out a call to The Stationmaster for his

thoughts , he put me right with a lot of my track planning .

Very impressive Al , it will look good suspended from ceiling .

Tis a bummer when it go's pear shaped after a lot graft , but

I'm sure you will get there in the end .

Like the vid Al , looks like a good job all round .

Looks good Al .

Could you not let it run for while to see if it loosens up rather than

do a strip down as a first option ?

As Mike said , lined green ( olive ? ) would look good .

Another option for applying the PVA mix is a paint pipette , less chance of accidentally

getting a ' blast ' instead of a drip if using a syringe .

Hope the girls have got their thermal knickers on , looks a bit chilly .

 

 

Thanks Mike, although I'm really only going for an overall impression of things. Photos from Edwardian goods depots show an amazing variation of materials and containers. I originally had a vision of doing actual replicas of some of the piles of goods that can be seen, but it would take forever.  So I'm just trying to give an overall feel of things, which includes highlighting certains materials like wood, wicker, cloth etc.

 We've just painted plastic stuff .   

Now I've got my chin back off the floor , stunning is the word that springs to mind .

Looks like a Great Bear , but with more pipework . Handsome beasty .

Totally agree with you here Al , I've found mine very useful when we've been playing

with building locations on the layout , it's nice to set a scene , photo , change a bit ,

photo and so on , then to be able to compare the results . We did  lot of it with the

town end of ours before we were happy .

 Also have to agree with CK , some very nice atmosphere in those shots ,

He does'nt appear to be able to get much paint ' on the job ' though , it's all

over him .  

Lovely attention to detail Al , all looks like it should in the real world .

 Now when you have a few minutes to spare you are most welcome to

weave some of your magic on our layout . Coffe and a biscuit will be provided .  ;-)

then try using gentle coercion to persuade the boiler/pannier assembly to shift

 

Ahh yes , hit wiv a ammer guv .

 Al thats a lot of work for so little gain , it certainly looks better than my example did , but if

you fel the need than so be it .

 Certainly with my eyesight as it is I would'nt notice a problem from normal viewing

distance and even more because it's such a small loco anyway .

As a follow up to my initial post , I too built one of the 1366 class many years  ago when I was still

at the learning stage of kit building .

Being a bit naive I assumed that kits of working loco's would go together like an Airfix car kit , you

just glued it all together and away it would go . So unsuprisingly my 1366 also had a distinct list to

the tank assembly . It was'nt untill I really started to get back into modelling properly after my 30 year

sabattical that it was realised that you cant do a loco kit in a day and get right that I took it to bits and

rebuilt it using low melt solder . It certainly looks better for it .

I do wonder if in using epoxy there is a chance that things can move under there own weight while

the glue is fully hardening , at least with a solder job it's fixed firmly first time .

As Tim says it looks okay in the photo and the camera never lie's does it ? 

 Hi Al .

a total dismantle with a glue fixed body is a piece of cake , a tin of nitromores

and a sealable container .

 Place body in container , pour the gunk on to the inside where all the glue

is , and leave for a day , it should all fall to pieces nicely then .

 Wear gloves when dealing with the nitomores though , and dont get in in your

eyes either .

 I've done several like this that needed a full re-build , and even if it was soldered

with low melt a kettle of boiling water does the job .

Mikkel , please dont apologise for what you see as problems , I suspect most of us here would

be thrilled to achieve this level of detail , I certainly would , I think you could take a photo

of a pile of coal and we would still go 'Wow ' .

Excellant , super photos and a good travellers tale in one hit .

More please .

My gob is well and truly smacked , that is superb well observed modelling , as others

have said the under canopy shots look so real .

Those internal shots are stunning , well done Mikkel .

Hi Andrew , a cheat I used with a loco that ran into this problem was to move the hole in the coupling

rod back slightly where it fix's to the cross head , This alters the stroke of the piston and in my case solved the problem . This may of course effect the back stroke .

As they are plastic I expect that they soon will be . :-)