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smokebox

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Everything posted by smokebox

  1. If you run it at high volume you risk blowing the speaker. If you are lucky, the speaker will fail as an open circuit and no harm should be done to the decoder but if it fails as a short circuit the decoder will almost certainly be damaged.
  2. All I can think is that the pseudo dc generated by the Elite doesn't suit the motor and suppression components of the loco.
  3. As its only DCC ready it will need a decoder installing.
  4. On the Elite you can just give the loco any address you like if it has a decoder installed. There is no need to read cv1 or mess with cv29. The Elite does it all for you
  5. Powdered graphite is my preference for pinpoint bearings, doesn't attract fluff and dirt. You can get it from locksmiths or online, it's used for lock lubrication.
  6. If it actually is an early Hornby decoder (R8215) then you can't read from it as reading is not supported.
  7. The lead from the handset to the PCP could be faulty?
  8. 9volt pp3 battery may be the safest?
  9. http://www.stephenjohnsonrailways.co.uk/Wickham 27.htm Decoder totally hidden but not the simplest of conversions.
  10. You only need 1 CDU, no matter how many points you have. Only the points that are being operated take any power.
  11. NCE are a bit odd in the way they handle addresses. For instance, 1 is, I think, regarded as a 2 digit address but 0001 is a 4 digit address*. So if you select address 68 you should try it as 0068, 068 and 68 * It's something like this but I can't remember the exact details.
  12. Just as you say. One micro switch per point.
  13. Basically you need to add some switches to the points to switch the LEDs on and off as the points are operated and a separate power supply for them. Don't forget to add resistors in line with each LED to limit the current. (Unless they come with built in resistors) Some point motors have inbuilt switches. You may want to use microswitches operated by the point throwbar.
  14. Black wire to one of the auxiliary output connections of the controller and the blue wire above your circle goes to the other contact on the aux output (I think!)
  15. Just plug a decoder in. It won't do any harm if it's backwards, except any lights won't work if it's the wrong way round. Turn the decoder around to fix the lights if it was wrong.
  16. The motor doesn't need isolating from the chassis, only the electrical connections to the motor. Triang XO3/XO4 motors are normally very easy to convert. Insulating the motor terminals just need a bit of insulation adding to the "wishbone" spring to isolate it from the brushes.
  17. 1.5²mm should be perfectly adequate for a layout of that size and 16/0.2 is good for droppers if kept as short as possible, no longer than about 12inches or 300mm is recommended.
  18. Use an ex laptop power supply. Anything from 15 volts to about 24 volts and 3 to 5 amps. Quite cheap on eBay. Including a CDU in circuit is an insurance against point motors burning out if a switch sticks on.
  19. When my parents moved into their brand new Nottingham council house at the end of 1952 the rent was ten shillings and sixpence per week, paid fortnightly (1 Guinea) including rates and water charges. That was about twice as much as older houses in the city!
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