Wizard of the Moor

Lovely photos, Andrew!

Simply magnificent!

That looks really good, Andrew. I look forward to seeing this in the flesh.

Absolutely superb! That shot showing the headcode lighting is one of the most convincing model photos that I have ever seen.

Thanks again for exhibiting at the show, Robin. It was a real treat to see your progress thus far.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/6681-boxenby-depot/?p=166630

Works for me every time. It's surprisingly quick to do and is a good basis for further weathering. Take time to get you base mortar colour sorted first, as it's hard to change that later.

Looking forward to seeing your progress in the flesh at Scalefour North in April

http://www.dckits-devideos.co.uk/shop/kits_modelling/plastic_dmu_emu_coaching_stock_kits_from_dc_kits_incudes_locomotives_/non_southern_electric_multiple_units/class_303_scottish_region_25kv_multiple_unit_3_car_unit_.php

Good luck!

Barry Norman did a cameo trackplan of Macduff in MRJ 97. This had an 11'6" senic section.

The key thing is to get the dropper wire to the switch blades extending under the stock rails. This prevents the blades lifting.

See http://www.clag.org.uk/tou.html for one way to do this.

For the tight spot, when you have figured out exactly where it is, then a grinding disc from a mini-drill accessory set makes a useful "file" for getting into the flangeway gap. Use it in you fingers, not in the drill! Take it gently and keep checking how the wagon wheels roll.

I'm still sorting out my first P4 turnouts, six years after I made them

Well done on getting this far.

James

That looks very nice indeed. Lovely to see a landscape with a railway running through it.

James

That tip with the grease-proof paper is a cracker. Thanks for pointing it out.

James

Yes, you can solder aluminium provided that you use appropriate solder and flux.

The problem is that ali oxidizes instantly. Therefore you need to keep the job covered with flux (to keep the oxygen off) and abrade the surface where you want the solder to flow with a stainless steel scratch brush (to remove the existing oxidization layer).

Might be easier to use an adhesive of some sort instead

Cheers,

James

Lovely stuff!

I couldn't agree more with your comments about social history.

James

In the latest MRJ (#199) there is an article about building a pair of Y7's. One of these was tried out on Leith docks in 1935. The writer of the article has modelled the loco attached to a Y9-style 'tender' and he refers to the lower, rear portion as being the 'toolbox'. However, he does admit that he doesn't know why the rear portion was lower than the front.

In several years of looking, I have never seen a photo that shows the inside of a NB or Caley coal-cart tender. Most photos that come close just show the rear portion to be full of coal. I have been told by several people that the rear portion was for a toolbox, but no-one can confirm if this was a single full width box or two smaller boxes, one at each side with a well in between.

If you find out then please post the details here

Cheers,

James

Well done, James! That's looking very nice indeed.

Very nice indeed!

Looking good :icon_thumbsup2:

Sorting out the boiler bands makes a huge difference.

James

Thanks for this detailed explanation. I hope that I've understood it now.

I take it that the computer rack mounts are something like big drawer runners? What is the maximum travel that they have?

The idea of a vertically traversing fiddleyard has occupied a lot of the meetings of TOERAG lately. Perhaps your design will finally convince us to build something...

Cheers,

James

David,

I like the look of your fiddleyard. Any chance of sharing the dimensions and further constructional details?

James

Bill Bedford does an etched, sprung subframe for GWR plate bogies to which you could attach the sideframes from your kit.

Cheers,

James