Scottish Modeller

HI there, That last photo looks very reminiscent of area where the B6415 goes under the ECML..... Thanks

Hi Mike, Glad to hear that there is some improvement - even if not yet to the level you need. I never use grease - always model oil. Running in makes a lot of difference - always do both directions. I do 15 minutes one direction, then reverse and repeat - some locos need more of this than others. After this running in - check the mechanism and reoil if needed. You are right - you should have a plastic cover with cab detail. In the NCB loco it should be blue with 2 grey regulator levers at the front. If you don't have this - then it sounds like someone had the model apart before you had it and didn't put this back. Thanks

Hi Pix, There is no 'Curates Egg' about any of the 3 models you have shown! The Hoover was first available around 1974, the Western a couple of years later. The HST seems to have been from about 1978. None of them go together well! I've built them all and cursed them well and truly! The Atlas chassis for the Hoover and Western were as rare as hens teeth and didn't like the weight of the bodies. Yes - they would haul a good load but didn't get up any great speed. The HST was another chunk of metal shaped roughly like an HST! I tried both Atlas and Life Like chassis in the ones I made - same problem didn't get up enough speed! The Life Like chassis soon died in protest to the weight imposed on them. Put them in the cupboard and forget wasting the time it would take to make something even remotely as good as the RTR ones that are available now. Thanks

Hi there, I used the Zimo MX 645 with external storage capacitor for 'Stay Alive' At the time this was the only DCC chip available with the Sentinel sound set. It is a bit too large for the loco and required a lot of carving to fir everything in. Chip in the cab, speaker in the short hood, 'stay alive' capacitor fitted where I could find room. There is a new, smaller, Zimo chip available that fits a lot better and, if I was doing another it would be my preference. There is a thread on here about fitting sound to the Sentinel and it was also covered in the magazines. Thanks Thanks

Hi Mike, I have the NCB one as well... When first bought it wasn't a great runner - even at the shop. But - it was the only NCB one available - so I bought it anyway. Once home I ran it both directions for 5 minutes each way and repeated this for an hour. At first it was a bit stuttery but with time this improved - but not to the point that I was happy with it. I stripped mine down totally, cleaned all the factory applied lubricant/grease and then applied small amounts of model oil - Daywat variety. Once assembled this made a big difference as it then crawled along without stuttering. When I DCC fitted it I had it all apart again and there was no sign of any damage. Fitted with Zimo sound chip - it now really crawls! Not scientifically measured it, but appears to be down to 5 minutes for 1 yard! Thanks

Hi all, Speaking of Observation cars/saloons... Lochaber - Ex LNER General Managers Saloon 1531 http://www.cs.vintagecarriagestrust.org/se/CarriageInfo.asp?Ref=945 I'm still searching for good photos of this one - not in it's current, rebuilt guise, but as it was running in Blue/Grey in Scotland. Also... 9004 - Ex GWR Inspection car - also used in Scotland in GWR Brown and Cream livery. http://www.cs.vintagecarriagestrust.org/se/CarriageInfo.asp?Ref=240 There seem to be very few photos of this one when it was up here - or am I just not finding them? Thanks

Hi Phil, Sorry - not an ex DMU car... As per other comments - Ex LNER Inspection saloon. Still exists today as part of the Royal Scotsman set up. http://www.cs.vintagecarriagestrust.org/se/CarriageInfo.asp?Ref=1052 Thanks

Hi Ray, Sounds like a possible short in the armature windings. As the motor warms up then the short gets worse, draws off the power and that causes the motor to slow and eventually to halt. If the loco stops on the section of armature with the short - then you need to prod it to get it to move again. If it stops on the section without a short this allows the motor to cool and this in turn allows the loco to move again. There was a straight replacement motor available at one time. I can't remember who from but it was a straight fit with just the original worm gear to be fitted. Thanks

Hi Bennyboy, Yes - This was:- BR 56356 Class 101 DMU: Driving Trailer Composite Lavatory built 1958 http://www.cs.vintagecarriagestrust.org/se/CarriageInfo.asp?Ref=3060 Gives details of the real thing. Thanks

Hi Al, There was a full set of photos on Fotopic at one time - lost or just forgotten? Don't know. Anyway, they have not reappeared anywhere that I can find. https://www.flickr.com/photos/taysider64/16584421362 Link to photo showing rake which comments state include Brahan Seer. I've also noted that 5234 "Clan Mackintosh" and 5230 "Corriemollie" were both classified SO(T) rather than TSO(T) as they only had 2+1 seating. Thanks

Hi Al, Yes - In the 14 years since I started Scottish Modellers on Yahoo groups we have only found photos of 4 of them. 9385 is at Swithland on the GCR. https://www.flickr.com/photos/45726467@N02/6929015925 5154 is on the Linclonshire Wolds Railway (as noted above) 6300 is at Ruddington Barry Steam Railway https://www.flickr.com/photos/dc-7c/6866471481 There also seems to be a 'Mock Hebridean' coach at another railway centre but I can't find the reference at the moment. 5381 is on the Wensleydale Railway https://www.flickr.com/photos/darlo2009/15167752387 Thanks

Hi Al, The phrase 'Rare as hens teeth' comes to mind when searching for images of these coaches.... The full set of names are available as decals from Railtec. Thanks

Hi all, I've used Carrs Butanone, and/or Original Plasticbond. Both are retail names for varieties of Butanone. I've also been successful with Pheonix Superweld - needed to use a larger amount to achieve a good bond though. Thanks

HI all, I'm currently looking for information relating to Invergordon Station and the changes in layout over the years. This is all connected with some work I am taking part in regarding Invergordon and the years when there was an RAF base at nearby Alness From records this starts from about 1936?(conf required) and carried on through the war and then post war period right up to the mid 80's. See - http://www.secretscotland.org.uk/index.php/Secrets/RAFAlness And - http://www.flickr.com/groups/secretscotland/ More - http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk/en/site/90512/details/alness+royal+air+force+seaplane+base/ The 1936 date is from historic information showing that the RAF posted my father there at that date - but it first appears as an official base in 1939? I've done the usual internet checks and now need to see what other people can tell me? What do we know and can you tell me? Whilst I realise this is not specificaly a railway question - my father was acting as RTO for the base, hence my request. Thanks

Hi Steaurt, At some point in 1999 I was told the mould for this model was unrepairable and once stocks ran out - that was it. On occasion they do turn up on Ebay - usually go for a fair bit of money! I did find a couple at an exhibition in 2008 - traders junk box happened to contain several of the Mikes Models range. I bought the lot - not just the NB water cranes! Just have to keep your eyes open around the shows and on Ebay. Thanks ps - Maybe this is something else we could get Dave Franks interested in producing?

Hi there, The correct colours of paint are/were available for all liveries that the CL303 has carried. You can use the Halfords white or grey plastic primer from a can - if you choose to. Original Clyde Coast 'Blue Train' livery. This was available but I've not seen any recently - was Precision Paints P145 B.R. Caledonian Blue Glasgow Orange & Black livery. Be aware that the so called 'matched colour' for Glasgow Orange of Halfords Volkeswagen Orange is not a match - It's too light. Correct colour of Orange is P159 Strathclyde P.T.E. Red (Loadhaul Orange) Glasgow black is black - any of the black paints are suitable! BR Blue/grey Plenty of choices available - use your favourite make. Strathclyde Crimson and Cream. P252 Strathclyde P.T.E. Crimson (1999 Livery) P253 Strathclyde P.T.E. Cream (1999 Livery) The later repaint of a CL303 into Glasgow Blue Train blue appeared to have a different shade than the original - or maybe my eyes saw it as being a different shade due to age? Hope this all helps.....

Hi there, As I said - power choice is yours. It is possible to model the CL303 from it's introduction right up to it's withdrawal from the DC Kits offering. Decals are available from various sources to finish it off in whichever livery you choose. You will need to 'Mix and Match' from the various makers ranges though. The kit comes with a cab that can be used for either the original curved windscreen or the modified flat windscreen. The cab as supplied is modelled for the flat windscreen version but you can carve the plastic back to the original curve window profile quite easily as there is a beading line for the window surround to guide you. Glazing the curved profile window is a different thing though - not easy at all. I have had several goes at doing it and given up each time as I was not satisfied with how it looked. Once you do get the kit - feel free to keep us up to date on your progress! Thanks

Hi there, My advice would be to build some wagon kits before you have a go at building the CL303. The CL303 from DC Kits is a good model - just not an easy one to assemble and get right without previous experience. Over the years I have built 9 of them, a couple of our Scottish Modellers group have also built them. The big decision you have to make is how you are going to power them as this makes a difference to how you build the power car. Choices are:- Tenshodo SPUD Will work, may not have enough power if you have inclines on your layout, need to arrange for power pick up from unpowered bogie Black Beetle Will work, may not have enough power if you have inclines on your layout, need to arrange for power pick up from unpowered bogie Replica power chassis This is the class act out of these! Has plenty of power, getting hold of one is the pain! Both bogies powered and pick up power. Need to stick the underframe gear from the kit to the underside of the chassis - without sticking the chassis screws permanently in place. Bullant power bogie Works well, plenty of power, good performer. Need to arrange for power pick up from unpowered bogie. As you can see from the comments - all have pro's and con's - it's up to you! If you had been at Modelrail Scotland today - you would have been able to see one being put together on one of our workbenches. Any queries - Charlie will give you an honest opinion if you ask him! Otherwise - ask away on here! Thanks

Come to Modelrail Scotland - SECC and ask them....

Hi all, One word says it all - if it is spelled correctly.... Bonnybridge This is where the exhibition is and that the layout will be travelling to on Friday! Thanks

Hi Dave, You have to stop posting photos like these.... Far to much like the real thing! Thanks

Hi all, Just received my order from Modelmaster... Looks like Jim is back to normal service! Thanks

Hi B Exam, I've asked the question to the seller. Yes - this was 20 028 with Tablet Catcher recess renumbered to 20 128. Thanks

Hi B Exam, Thanks for the info. I bought a Bachmann CL20 128 second hand and it has the tablet catcher recess. So - it must be a renumber but wrongly done. Possibly it was a 20 028 and someone did a simple renumber without checking the facts. Thanks

HI Simon, That will do fine! As long as it was pre headlight and post TOPS with the Tablet catcher recess filled in... Thanks