Bristol_Rich

Wayne Thanks for the kind comment. Its unfortunate that the enemy of modelling is time, and it does seem to be an ever decreasing commodity at the moment what with work and hence the minimal updates on the thread here. That said however it was a good exhibition at Lydney as always with a great mix of modelling...and surprising that the first time the layout was exhibited was back in 2004 at Lydney...where does time go! Thankfully the layout ran faultlessly with no dramas, although my 08 has picked up a bit of a squeak...in one direction only . Look forward to seeing the pics!...meanwhile one very quick one off the camera...

In the past I’ve used very very fine wet and dry paper (dry) rubbed against the rear surface in very small circular motions, rotating the piece through 90degrees as you go. It’s a lot easier if you cut a piece of the glazing material larger than you need, work it and then cut the sized section out of this. It prevents you focusing your efforts in spots and provides a more uniform finish. If you varnish the glazing there is a risk it will go foggy/opaque but will be inconsistent and look a bit messy.

Have a read of this... http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=1999.0

Thanks all this is all useful....I’ll post up the results!

I’m part way through converting/updating an old 4mm Hornby 6.5t hand crane. I’ve removed the originally supplied chain with the aim to represent the more prototypical arrangement of the cable operated jib and lifting hook. What do people recommend using to represent the steel cable rigging? The obvious choice would be to use Cotton/thread but to me this looks ‘fluffy’ and ‘looks like cotton’. I’m also keen to replicate the saggy ‘weighty’ appearance of the cable so any alternative needs to be flexible enough to model the relaxed sag... I’ve seen the Mig productions ship rigging but unsure if this is flexible/pliable enough - it’s elastic therefore I’m assuming it needs to be fixed in tension? Anyone got any thoughts? Thanks!

Unidentified First HST climbs hard out of Severn Tunnel in evening sunshine...

Try the Molotow liquid chrome pens - accurate and controllable straight from the pen. Can be decanted and brush applied. https://www.cassart.co.uk/painting/accessories_1/paint_pens/molotow_liquid_chrome_marker.htm

Super Blue is for highly polished, stainless steel and or hardened surfaces. Whilst a benefit is that it is considered the ‘blackest blue’ it damages the finish of any surrounding previously blued areas. Perma blue s very much the general product and can be re applied to patch in missed areas.

Just the one email?!....Flickr sent me 200+ copies of the same email! I really hope Smugmug get the Flickr house in order. The last year it really has gone down the pan with excessive spamming of content, accounts and fake users of ‘certain special interest content’...

Have a look for Vallejo Matt Varnish as part of the Vallejo paint range... it’s acrylic but is fine when used on water slide decals.

Eckon do a speed restriction etch with the C and T included.... https://www.modelrailwaysdirect.co.uk/EA7-Speed-Restriction-Signs/

Just another thought have you checked the cast mazac chassis that it is straight and true? One of mine suffered with the usual Heljan 47 rot and the first sign was the fuel tanks bottomed out on the rail head and caused poor running. Before spending money on new chips, it might be worth a quick check along the length of the body for any bellying in the chassis.

And looking at the axle boxes and springs, heavily loaded?

I’m pretty sure NMJ used to do one (both in HO and O?)....I also remember reading the price!

We could be getting hydrogen powered trains soon!*... *in the next 30years according to the low quality, gutter scraping sourced informative and highly regarded journalistic crud that is the Bristol Post... http://www.bristolpost.co.uk/news/bristol-news/bristol-could-see-hydrogen-powered-1107925

As you’ve assumed I’m a bit thick, you’ll be pleased to know that I am more than capable of understanding the story and the general gist of the series.

It’s not just you...I’m thinking the same.

Interesting insulated slternative third rail solution here:

As part of an ongoing project I needed to recreate a chrome finish effect. Not withstanding the existing Alclad2 products, I have found these Molotow Chrome Paint pens available through Amazon and Cass Art. Sold in various tip sizes ranging from 1mm (reviews suggest these block), 2, 4 and 8mm these paint pens produce an excellent mirror like chrome finish. I'm not sure what type of paint is contained within however using the 4mm tip you can decant paint straight from the nib to paint brush and apply as you would with any other paint. Brushes can be cleaned using normal enamel thinners. Drying times are equivalent to traditional Humbrol enamel. "According to the internet" the paint can be thinned and airbrushed and refills are available - however looking further Ive yet to find any further information. From the few tests Ive completed, applying to a black substrate produces best results. At £5 they aren't cheap however when compared to a full set of Alclad primer, finishes and work required to get a satisfactory finish, these pens offer a convenient and user friendly alternative. Highly recommended!

Ironically Jimmy Cauty is a ‘modeller’ relying heavily on Prieser, Bachmann, Oxford, Hornby and maybe just maybe....Coopercraft?

I'll be up for supporting it as after all its something a bit different, broadens the scope and interest and runs on rails...

The other issue I found with Railmatch cans is they loose pressure overtime irrespective of use. I’ve never experienced with any other rattle can of paint....

Done! Great weekend. I took a small display of 1/35 Swedish narrow gauge locos, wagons and railcar and seemed to attract some interest as well as lots of questions about a potential layout... looks like I might need to get some track laid!

Printers (along with Gillette and their disposable razor blades) are classic "loss leaders"... essentially the handle, or in the case of the toners the printer is "free" or at a much reduced cost to the purchaser. I guess what we have to remember that its not feasible to cater for all printer model makes and types. From what I understand from briefly reading on the net, the white toner "works" in a very different way to the typical CYRBB cartridges and hence may only be applicable to certain printers manufacturers and the processes they use. Not withstanding the backlog of white decal printing I'm hopeful this might be a viable option. My main concern is density of the print and if it allows colour bleed through from the base colour behind...

I have numerous custom white decal jobs to complete and whilst searching the net for custom printing options, I stumbled across this product... https://www.ghost-white-toner.com/?lang=en Not withstanding the existing and costly OKI and (if I understand correctly) the now obsolete-ish ALPS printers, it seems this is one if not only cost effective means to print "white ink" at home. At ~£70 per cartridge (plus printer if its not covered under the supported models) its still not cheap, however it is anticipated via the blurb that you are likely to print in excess of 1600 pages from one cartridge, and cheaper than the alternatives. Does anyone have anyone have any experience of the product or similar? I'm interested to understand how well it prints, colour depth, opacity etc...