micklner

Post war Merlin.

Or a post war A4 or W1 in Garter Blue without valances . edit My conversion of Hornby Mallard R2339 to Merlin below.

It maybe a lot easier to buy Alan Gibson , Short Bushes and Nuts, the Bushes will then be all the same length. I have no idea if the Sharman "pins/screws" have the same thread however. Gibsons are M1 thread. As you wheels are I presume push fitted on the wheels, its not recomended to take them off the axles again to change the screws over. See below. http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/Spring 2022 catalogue.pdf

What are you using for the Crankpins and fixings. They do not look like Gibson fittings. You have a large gap bewteen the fixing nuts and the rods, allowing the rods to go all over the place, not surprised you have binding.

Army Painter Matt is excellent, the price has just nearly doubled on Amazon so shop around.

Very Strange !!. I have bought a number of Hornby A4's secondhand over the last few years none had been run to death or solidified Motors or Gears, which I have never seen on any Hornby Locos at anytime . I must have be very lucky, the Hornby A4's are very easy to work on as well, and you can save a few/lots of pennies too. Models of R2338 Newton are actually dearer or the same price on EBay as used as the Wilson version. One brand new Wilson on offer for £170 , hardly a bargain price etc etc.

What is actually any better on the newer models ?? . Just because its newer does'nt on its own make anything better.

Plum from a distant could also look Black when new . Does/could Plum fade to Light Red or even Orange ?? no idea !!

The best/current detailed Hornby A4's started at LNER Mallard R2339 they also did LNER/NE Sir Charles Newton in Black R2340 (?) maybe the other number posted earlier.

I never said it was correct !. same for the Curtains .😊

"Orange" or a very faded Red? lining. Lovely old thing, hopefully it will go to a new home. No knowlege of Cavalier or its products . I like the little LMC workplate on the Solebar a nice touch.

Chas, One here for you , wrong gauge, but it will save you a lot of work !! 😊 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285468307864

Motor fixed in postion or moving up and down (torque effect). If moving it can lock the wheels. Your wiring needs insulating , never have bare wires .

Good point re bending !! A lot depends on the metal thickness involved. I would'nt recomend a scrawker for this job. For it to work, you have to bend the metal, you then have to snap apart on the lines created, and still drill corner holes as well and still cut at least threee sides for it to work !! . It will give guide lines ,to make it easier to saw the metal. The scrawker is excellent for making etched lines on kits deeper, before any bending/shaping occurs e.g corners

Well done , even easier is drill holes in each corner, then saw from one to the other.

Ex NER Tanks still running in that area were used on some Locos . I have seen photos of G5 and F8 with rear bufferbeam numbers displayed.

https://Bachmann-spares.co.uk/category/2-branchline-steam-parts/j72. They are very helpful.

Give us a clue as to the alternative please. I tried a Tesco own make one, on my Canon, and it wouldnt even reconise it , let alone print !.

J27 "tarted up". Bradwell Chimney and Safety Valves. I have just acquired a BR version which will be backdated to LNER version in due course. Lovely Locos.

Have a read here I found a new motor on Ali Express for a knackered Q6. All good afterwards. I removed the flywheel off the useless Hornby motor by cutting the shaft between the Flywheel and motor . Then by heating the flywheel on a gas ring and pulling the shaft remnant off .

https://hmrs.org.uk/transfers.html?p=2&transfer_group=6540

This "mongrel" version at a guess . The Hornby version in the first photo is the NRM Loco in Black, different cab number on the other side 502 ,as on the Buffer Beam. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Flying_Scotsman_(7468181220).jpg

I suggest buy some etched Brass ones much stronger and better detailed, the plastic ones will break very easily. Brassmasters and 247 Developments sell them. The problem with a scale drawing is it doesnt allow for the Smokebox curve for hole placement ,and the the model legs could be in a different position as well. I suggest curve a piece of paper to match the smokebox curve and attach with masking tape. Line the defector legs up on the body. Press the legs lightly onto the paper against the smokebox, marking the postions and then drill small holes just enough the mark the plastic through the paper into the Smokebox . Check to see if they are inline before drilling any further , then only when you are happy they are correct. Only drill using a handrill otherwise the plastic will melt. Not a easy job, Brass will allow you to tweak the final postion. Plastic will snap, which the Hornby ones will almost always do.

Sounds like Methalated Spirit dries clean on metal. White Spirit aka Turps, will leave everything greasy to the touch.

No not seats, one of the two in the kit, is on the right in the photo. The small boxes have been i.d as fitted too the sides of the Firebox at the base, looking at photos it appears to confirm the earlier post above. Re the "stumps" The kit had no castings so who knows ! Someone elsewhere has suggested smokebox door straps , they look to big to me.