Jump to content
 

micklner

Members
  • Posts

    7,167
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by micklner

  1. I have never seen/read anything relating to Sentinels being used for anything ,other than for normal passenger use.
  2. Last LNER Sentinel Railcar was withdrawn in 1948 . According to attached link East Anglia based Sentinels finished by around 1939 . https://www.lner.info/locos/Railcar/sentinel.php
  3. You only have 6 months to make a claim on a Credit Card.
  4. Look on the Hornby service sheet .
  5. https://laisdcc.aliexpress.com/store/2977030?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.f22d1802A61pjR I sourced a motor for my Q6 on here very cheap. Flywheels were easy , simply cut the flywheel off the shaft as motor is duff anyway . Heat flywheel on a gas ring, pull old shaft out and push new motor shaft onto the flywheel before it cools.
  6. Simply send it back . Is the mould line of the Boiler side really that bad ? The broken part is the Speedo Bracket.
  7. Yes, the resin was a slight pain to drill , be careful of "skidding" as you start the holes the resin is a bit brittle as well. I also added a new Chimney and brass Straps on the rear area between the sides and the rear bufferbeam, and a front coupling. Roof was'nt a good fit and adjusted to fit better. Steel version One of the two wood versions.
  8. I have built the LNER versions including the Steel model , the lettering on them was even worse. Wrong typeface, etc etc. I changed the Handrails on mine as well before they broke, as far too fragile.
  9. The Rails NER Autocar on the LNER Version they made it in a plain pale "Teak" Brown with a Yellow lining and a very thin Red lining on the outside of the Yellow which was barely visible . I have never seen any photos of "Teak" painted Railcars. A simple copy perhaps of the Rails LNER version is all thats needed ?. I would use the Precision Paints LNER Teak Brown .
  10. All three videos are blocked the screen is saying "Private" Presumably the settings need changing.
  11. Cheers Chas and a Happy New Year to everybody !!!
  12. 200 error on previous attempt with multiple photos. Reported earlier today.
  13. Progress via a flu bug !. Main Loco body and chassis done ,Loco needs filler tidying up then detail parts to be added. Chassis ready for painting.
  14. You obviously havent looked at the photo of the broken part very well. Before your actually write poor advice on a post , not a unusual occurence for you. The part has failed on the "raised bridge shape" for this too work it needs to be flexible to slide into the gap to make the electrical contact. If you soldered that broken joint the solder would lock it rigid, and it would be impossible for the piece to then close at all. All flexibilty would have gone. The only solution is a new connector, or make a complete new part if it is viable. Even then you have to micro soldering on the new part and hope it works. It would be much better for Hornby to stop selling poor qualaity/designed items in the first place.
  15. Contact Hornby and ask for a new one. You will end up with a non working mess if soldered.
  16. This J24 is a right mongrel. Falcon Brass Loco body/chassis etches only sourced via ebay. Castings from Arthur and a Oxford J27 Tender again from ebay. The etches were as usual basic in the extreme. The worse bit was the coupling rods ,as no one does the correct spacing for the J24 , I used universal Gibson rods which I always find a real pain to use. Road Runner Plus Box with a vertical 1015 motor fitted.
  17. NER Version is identical other than the top "lifting beam". NER Snowploughs Book has a photo and a dimension diagram, I can post photos if anyone wants them ? It was used on the Tyneside Electric lines. It would go nicely with the recent NIU Snowploughs which I have already built.
  18. Easier with Brass strip all round or have I misread something ??.
  19. Buy some Tapered Reamers various sizes available. A Broach is designed to remove tiny amounts of metal at a time. Not to open out holes.
  20. Re the first paragraph. You would be very lucky to get the correct shade of paint, patch painting rarely looks good, no idea re lettering sizes , you can remove them by very gently stroking a No 10 Swann Morton Blade over the lettering/numbers again try on a old Loco first. These are £300 + Locos not a good idea to try any of what you suggest without previous experience. Second paragraph. BR removed them, not the LNER.
  21. Mike I model the whole of the LNER period 1923 to 1948. I already built the Raven A2 City of Durham with the Gresley 8 wheel Tender, this one will be circa 1923/1930 with Westinghouse Pump etc fitted. I havent decided on the exact date/lettering layout version at the moment. If you look at my thread on here https://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1624&start=60 There are many of the earlier photos that are now missing on here, due to the recent site crash. Sadly a similar crash occured on this website as well losing a lot of earlier photos thereon as well. Mick
  22. Next up a recent ebay purchase. The instructions list as available in 1985 for £75.00 about £220.00 now. Luckily I got this one for less than the 2023 price !!. It will be City of Kingston Upon Hull 2401in due course.
  23. B16 finished . The Tender was stripped and the Coal plates had 3mm removed from the length and returned to the body. Avoid this kit unless very desperate !!.
×
×
  • Create New...