ozzyo

Have a look at this link it may help, http://www.rapidonline.com/cables-connectors/unistrand-6943xlh-steel-wire-armoured-cable-per-metre-517213 OzzyO.

It may not be seen but it was good for practise.

I did say approx. for the weight. I was going on the size of the builders delivery bags. that are approx. 1 cubic yard. so that T will equal the metric tonne that is smaller than the imperial ton, (1 tonne =0.9842 ton, 1 ton =1.016tonne). 1 cubic metre = 1.308 cubic yards. OzzyO.

1 cubic yard of wet sand = approx 1 ton.

Any chance of any photos?

Or one of these as Steve says (the old Ron Chaplin) MT Cannon for £95 if your a member of the guild, or £121 if your not. OzzyO.

Why not use the lead screw and a DTI for the end stop? When your cutting up to a face?

Er. I was thinking on the inside, not the outside of the building. OzzyO.

Jeff one thing that I would do is fit some blinds on them windows, to stop the wrong people look in. Even if they are on your side of the property. Not all people agree with property boundaries and stay on their side of it! OzzyO.

Think that I remember seeing some like that in Crewe works, but the paint job wasn't as clean!!!!!! Coat on and the door has closed, OzzyO.

Just clicking the craftsmanship/ clever button does not do this justice. OzzyO.

The speed looks a bit quick, don't forget that the real thing was lifting about 30 tons or more. Also the angle looks a bit to steep, bring it down by about 15 deg. and I think that it would be about right. A nice job all the same. OzzyO. PS. a small point on the 21/24 ton wagon why is the diagonal strip on the fixed end of the wagon?

Hello Tim, I'd add a boss to both sides of the crank pin holes on all of them. The knuckle pin joint looks a bit thin on the back so I think that I'd add one there too. I'd just remove a bit off the top of spacer E, do you have a spacer to fit in the angled slot above the centre driver? If you do you may want to check the length of spacer F as well. OzzyO.

Has anyone tried caustic soda to do this? OzzyO.

Jeff, have a look at this link for a QCTP link http://www.axminster.co.uk/quick-change-4-piece-lathe-tooling-set ATB OzzyO.

Carl, are these any use to you? Have you asked Hachette if they have any back issues that contained the tender body moulding? From below, L/H side R/H side Front Back small Top Back big OzzyO.

JeffP, a quick change tool post is well worth the money, most of them have two positions for the tools, one running across the axis of the lathe and one running parallel to it. Insert tools are very good but the lath tends to have to run at a higher speed to get the best out of them. The letters and numbers show the type of tip and the composition of the carbide, for the types of metal we tend to cut I would say to get a tip tool holder that has a positive rake to it. This should cut like a normal HSS tool that has been well ground. You can get tip tool holders that work with a negative rake, these tend to use more power but can give a better finish to the job, but will show up any problems with the bearings and the gibs. IIRC about the best size of tool for a Myford 7 is approx 10mm (3/8") To check the centre hight above the bottom of the normal tool post put a length of say 10mm bar in the lathe chuck and see if the bar will go above the base of the slot in the tool post. See below. When you get a length of bar that will fit in the gap. Measure the gap below the bar and the bottom face of the tool post slot, so if a 10mm bar fits divide it by 2 = 5 then add the gap dimension so if you can get 3mm below the bar the max. size of tool that you can use is 8mm. But if you get a quick change too post this does not matter too much as you can move the tool holder up and down. OzzyO.

I will agree with that I ordered a number of packets of 7mm handrail knobs off him of different types, when I got the order all but one pack were the 7mm ones that I ordered but one pack was 4mm. I phoned him up and explained what had happened and said I would return them, he just said keep them and I had the correct ones in a day or so. OzzyO.

Have a look at this link http://www.technobotsonline.com/pololu-1000-1-micro-metal-gearmotor.html OzzyO.

Markits is still trading or it was when I bought some stuff off them late last year or early this year. I thought that the wheels were still metal but had just been blackened. OzzyO.

That is nice layout and track building you are doing mate. OzzyO.

It may sound daft but a big hammer works well in getting the sand/ballasts to sit down. Just a few light taps along the rails works to get it all in place. I'm not joking on this, honest. OzzyO.

Looks like one of your X beams has come undone on the bottom bridge support. OzzyO. PS. some nice work going on there Jamie and the boys.

Hello all, I would like the railway to reopen, my cards are on the table. IIRC the B.R.B. (properties) have (had) to look after any closed railway tunnels that have not been filled in! I think this is also the case with any disused railway over road/rivers bridges. If it's a road over bridge it became the responsibility of the council/or highways dep. One of the reasons why you see so-many road over bridges filled in. A question if I may? When the lines were closed the B.R.B. own the track bed, were parts of the track bed ever sold? Or have land owners next to the old lines just moved in with out purchasing the land? As if the latter is the case all of the property that has been built on old railway track beds could be technicality all be trespassing. OzzyO.

Looking good Kev, when are we going to see it up the club?