ozzyo

How do Steve, are you going to put some of the "hill" behind the tunnel mouth of Seven tunnel east? All you would need is about 12" to get the effect. Nice looking job. OzzyO.

Hello all, sorry that I did not get to see the show. But I would like to ask a few questions if I may. The show was in the library / museum in the main city square? Did any one see the plates from City of Lancaster (about half way up the stairs)? Any of the other bits and bobs that related to Lancasters railway history? OzzyO.

Hello Martyn, I'd still bake it in the oven for about 1 hour at 250 Deg and let it cool in the oven (don't do it when Jo's in the hose though), I'm not sure if zapping it will kill all of the bugs you will have to get the soil to over 100 Degs. to kill them. If you don't kill them they will eat your boards in time (or start growing). The ash from all of your bar-B-cues should be OK for any shed roads. OzzyO. PS. do you want any red soil? The red soil is normal caused by a high iron content. It could look good as a load going to an iron ore mill.

Also a bit like it has to be brass not plastic in a model, to be correct and it should be soldered not glued. A lot of trains are now made of steel and aluminium glass Etc. AND get this plastic and glue. Not that many trains are made of brass. The front end of the H.S.T. is a big fibreglass moulding to start with. OzzyO.

First to guess what I'm planning to do with this gets a like! (no rude answers please!) IMGP9483-001.JPG Put a GI Joe under it? Coat on and the door has closed behind me. OzzyO.

Hello all, I maybe misreading this reply, but in these three photos this is the driver side of the loco. IIRC you don't need any handles for the hydrostatic lubrication. Most of the time the pipes for the hydrostatic lubrication would run under the cladding to keep heat loss down. The handle on the drivers side look more like one of two or more things, 1] a manual jumper to to the blast pipe or 2] the linkage for a hopper in the smoke-box to help reduce char (I'm not sure if the L.N.E.R. had them but some L.N.W.R. loco did). OzzyO.

That is one hell of a good photo in that it shows the exchange of the tokens to the start of a single or from one single line to another When you look at the line behind the train you can see the old type of tablet catcher . I did this at about 15MPH and it is not the sort of thing that you want to get wrong. You have to pick up one tablet and drop off one at the same time with out taking off the head of the pegman. You also have to have your arms in the correct positions to do the above. OzzyO.

The west edge of the canopy was carried on steel tube supports which were also used for carrying the roof drainage downpipes. At ground level the water was dispersed across the cobblestone surface from under large concrete safety bases. The eastern edge of the canopy was carried on stone blocks built into the office building at high level Hello Ron, I'm not sure about how you are reading the water dispersement from the roof, ie. sending it across the top of the cobbles. If it worked as you say it would have to come up from under the concrete safety bases. Also sending it across the top of the cobbles could cause undeterminedment of the base of the cobbles near to the base of the columns. Or did the steel columns double as down pipes until above the hard ground level and then it then became a large water soak-off, this would have been a large area for a roof like this. Would it not be better if the down pipes ran to drains that were next to the support columns and then ran to all of the main drains, then the safety bases would be what we would call man hole covers for cleaning out any rubbish. All of this is conjecture as I've not seen any of the plans. Lots of good work going on Ron. ATB OzzyO.

Hello Les, I'm with spray painting the background white (use white primer) and then doing the letters black. For doing the black you could try the flat ink pads that are used for card making these come in sizes from about an 1" square. I' think that these are water based so should stick to the primer,but if it goes boobs up you should be able to wash the ink off and start again. Just had a word with the wife about these and you can get them from "The Range". The down side is that you would have to fix them with some sort of varnish (and that could be fun)! The other way paint as above then use a hard ink roller as you would for type setting, with this you could use a paint like acrylic so that if it didn't work you could wash it off. ATB OzzyO. PS. the working part of the layout is coming along a lot.

After showing off your whistle (and a nice job it is), how are thinking about getting the chimney to fit to the body like it should with just about no visible lip showing? As in this photo. All I can think of is that you may have to mill a rebate into the body so that you can sink the chimney casting into it so that it fits nice and smooth. OzzyO.

That looks very nice. OzzyO.

Hello tender, I'm a bit surprised that you went for the ER25 set of collets, when the ER32s would have given you a bit more rod size that you could have used. Looks a nice bit of kit, where did you get it from? OzzyO.

When you think about it you do have a lot of "National" carriages running around, the only thing is these are Units. Start looking at about the 153s. One car units with a bus body.

Hello Michael, I'm not sure where you got that information from? If that was the case how would it traverse from one side to the other when the smokebox (transfer box) would get in the way? But when you look a this photo of a Costi 9F you can see that weighshaft will fit between the pre-heat "boiler" and the main boiler. This is the large bearing on the motion bracket. Not the large flanged hole to it's rear. This looks to be a flange for the exhaust steam pipe, some will go to the steam jacket but most will go directly up the chimney to help produce draft in the boiler. In this photo you can also see the main steam pipe to the cylinder inside the smokebox and outside of the smokebox. This explains the odd shaped steam pipe covers at the front end. When you look along the pipe you can see an inverted U shaped pipe, I think this will be the take off pipe for the steam jacket at the rear of the preheat boiler. OzzyO.

The liquid lead will cost you more!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (depending on where you buy it at).

Steve, glad that you have had the operation at long last and hope it all goes well, A few tips, don't spent to much time walking around the super markets. don't spend to much time standing in the kitchen. don't put your superman out fit on just yet. don't lift any thing that weighs more than twenty fluid ounces or one pint! do spend time at your modelling bench. and most importantly do as your doctor has told you. ATVB OzzyO.

I like the rust effect on the wheel barrows. But one small problem they look to be wooden barrows! OzzyO.

Hello all, a bit late in replying to this thread, yes it is 50 thou. for the Alan key, I get mine from a local ironmongers for about 30p. If you get the screw stuck in the axle and the screw head gets chewed up us an automatic centre punch close to the edge of the screw first us it as you would normally, then at about 45Degs. For replacement screw you want 1/4" X 6BA I get mine from Items Mail Order. OzzyO.

IIRC, it's called grasshopper valve gear. This is pi?? me off as I wrote a nice reply and it has gone. I'll try and do it again. The vertical cylinders each drove one axle, by using con. rods that meant that the wheels were kept in sinc. But when you look at the wheels you will see that one cylinder is driving one wheel at approx. 90 Deg. to the other one on the same side. So that should mean that the push rods on both sides of the same axle are only working on the same stroke. That is why the wheels have to be set out of sinc. The wheels are of the type that were made by Blenkingsop? (spelling check) These were quite an idea for the time that this loco was built, These wheels were cast as an inner one piece casting and the outer as a number of casting IIRC. Then the two rims? were fixed together using round wooden plugs between the outer and inner castings to try and reduce any movement between the track and the loco frames.as most locos at this time did not have any form of suspension IIRC this wheel was used on one of the £5 notes a few years back OzzyO.

As you say Dave the width across the frames is more relevant. If my maths is correct this should be 3' 4 3/4" or 23.77mm. As this is FS should the frames be narrowed by the 1mm?????? OzzyO.

So on the model the gap between the frames should be 22.3mm. OzzyO.