Hesperus Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 I look forward to seeing it. Are you planning to alter the wheels on this one? It isn't that difficult to remove spokes with a piercing saw but it will take a while to do 6 of them. I can sympathise with your gear retaining issues, did the wire hook work in the end? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 wire retainer on J aspdin did not work because the solder didnt stick to the steel axle. a strong superglue has been doing a reasonable job since Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) photos as said ive also made a new strecther between the cylinders so they are removable as they used to be. i decided to make a new keep plate rather than stick the halves of the old one together. the white u channel ont he keep plate are just for strengthening. Ive got an idea that i will try to buy some brass rod at the right diameter for the axles so that the brass gear will solder to it and yes i broke a slide bar while dismantling, not found it yet Halfmoon (6) by Sam, on Flickr Halfmoon (5) by Sam, on Flickr Halfmoon (7) by Sam, on Flickr Halfmoon (8) by Sam, on Flickr Edited October 26, 2015 by sir douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 (edited) hi, Had a good weekend on Green Ayre, the bogie coach had a few runs round the mainline, and it runs better than i thought it would, my 3 skytrex and 2 G&SWR wagons ended up either assimilated into the goods trains or sitting on show in the goods yard. i didnt take "J Aspdin" as it still has some issues to sort. during that weekend i bought 2 packs of Slaters 3'7" plain coach wheels but i need 3 wheel sets so i had to buy 2 packs of 2, connoisseur 6 wheel suspension kit and a pack of Parkside RCH wagon buffers which are all for the north british carriage kit. For the single Fairlie "Halfmoon", I took with my the drive gear to get the right diameter brass road and a crosshead to get the right width brass channel section which i got from Severn Models. From nick Tozer's stand i bought a book about Fairlies, it wasnt for this project but it will be very helpful. weekend haul by Sam, on Flickr and for the curious, the Bachmann tram was bought as a donor to one day build an O16.5 battery electric loco brass rod bought to fit the gear for a loco and channel section to fit the crosshead for the same by Sam, on Flickr Edited November 24, 2015 by sir douglas 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 If you want to get that brass gear really soldered onto the the brass axle, use some emery paper to really clean up the surfaces to be soldered and use a small gas torch. Don't use acid flux - the brass will eventually corrode. Use a small gas torch such as the type used to caramelise the top of Creme Brulee and some regular 60/40 electrical solder. Where did the cylinders and connecting rods come from? I may try something similar with a semi-freelance loco build later next year. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 the cylinders and motion are from the GWR castle chassis that i cut up for Halfmoon. i chose it just because it gives me the complete set up without having to work out how far and what angle i need to set the cylinders at because its already done castle to fairlie bogie by Sam, on Flickr Last night i glued down the roof of the bogie carriage carriage 2 (7) by Sam, on Flickr The brass rod for Halfmoon's axles have been cut and the axle holes in the wheels have been drilled out and with the wheels on the axles, after they were checked to be sitting true on their axles some supper glue was run round on the back to fix them together, though i still need to solder the gear on Halfmoon (9) by Sam, on Flickr 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 (edited) something that i talked about on my "other stuff" blog back in august last year was my plan for a small o gauge layout, In the beginning i wanted something about 600 x 1800mm but with what i wanted to have it just wouldnt fit, since then ive been constantly tweeking the plan on templot and now i think ive got it about right at 630 x 223mm. theres no time frame for this as i have no idea when i will finish Halfmoon Colliery and how long i will keep it before moving on, this layout will one day go in the same place as where HC is now, i dont think can keep both as ive got nowhere to store HC. My main criteria for the layout are: - A run round loop, i like the idea of coming to scene running round then shunting instead of just shunting back and forth like an inglenook - 2 sidings long enough for 3 wagons - A headshunt, so shunting can stay on the layout and doesnt go off into the fiddle yard I started with Xtrack cad. to get the most space available i put the centre of the fiddle yards rotation in the corner but that means the sector plate stick out of the baseboard and cant be put up against a wall such in where it will go in my bedroom in the place of HC. Also it would mean that the FY table would need to be detachable for transporting the layout i felt like wanting to take it to shows. i did have templot back then but i felt out of my depth so didnt use it but when i did start using it in about march of this year, i had the xtrack plan to go on which i could import an image of and as of now. This time the fiddle yard sector plate rotates from the end I started by drawing the track alignment out. the FY could now be put up against the axis origin. this means that unlike the previous versions, the fiddleyard will be within the baseboard and so doesnt need to be detached for travelling. the centre of rotation is 20mm in from the track end Edited December 8, 2015 by sir douglas 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 hi, ive just cleaned up that rail i got back in october, so now i have 36 foot of rail ready to use when i get around to starting Deffors (above) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 DSCN0019 by Sam, on Flickr DSCN0052 by Sam, on Flickr Templot plans for Deffors printed ans sleepered with 3mm ply 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dava Posted February 14, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 14, 2016 Good luck with those points! Gauge carefully. Dava Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Instead of making individual turnouts you might want to consider building some or all of the track work as a single module. It will greatly assist keeping the flow of the plan. Dave 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 i forgot to mention that for now i will be able to build up the frogs but i wont be able to actually build the points until i get 2 packs of chairs from C&L for the layout at York show Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 (edited) a new project has started by chance, an antiques and collectable shop opened in town earlier this year so i decided to have a look, and on a shelf was an o gauge wagon for £8, it is a Hornby tinplate it had been re-wheeled, hooked and painted by its last owner, i bought it because the Peco wheels cost about that much on their own so the the hooks and the brake gear are extra. So from this i decided to reuse all the non original parts to scratch build a new wagon. the white metal axle boxes and springs came from a different project that doesnt need them anymore. the W irons were extra in the peco chassis kit that the van is built on. the slots have been cut wider to fit the axle boxes, i built the chassis on a drawing based on one in Bill Hudson private owner wagon books Edited February 20, 2023 by sir douglas 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 a new project has started by chance, an antiques and collectable shop opened in town earlier this year so i decided to have a look, and on a shelf was an o gauge wagon for £8, it is a Hornby tinplate it had been re-wheeled, hooked and painted by its last owner, i bought it because the Peco wheels cost about that much on their own so the the hooks and the brake gear are extra. tank (1) by Sam, on Flickr tank (2) by Sam, on Flickr So from this i decided to reuse all the non original parts to scratch build a new wagon. the white metal axle boxes and springs came from a different project that doesnt need them anymore. the W irons were extra in the peco chassis kit that the van is built on. the slots have been cut wider to fit the axle boxes tank (3) by Sam, on Flickr i built the chassis on the drawing, you may be able to see the glue stains. ive got the four volume Bill Hudson private owner wagon books to reference from tank (6) by Sam, on Flickr Yep weve got one or two wagons like that, you may given me an idea - nice work! ATVB CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 yet another project on the go. At NG north yesterday i got a Parkside Dundas o gauge gwr wagon kit for £5, it was quite badly put together, the solebars were glued on way too far apart on the underside of the floor and were wonkey so they had to be cut off, cleaned up and glued on in the right place, all the parts so far put together had not had any of their mould lines, or tabs cut off. but now its all been cleaned up, and put together properly and ive now fitted the axle boxes and wheels so i have a rolling wagon sorry no pics yet Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 (edited) the pics for the post above And now.. i found something that is just the right diameter for the tank wagon, a reduntant vacuum extension pipe, here it is with stryrene sheet wrapped around the middle And then.. It was quite a while back so a recap, I collected some parts together for a 0-4-0 loco, OO 14xx loco wheels, OO GWR castle cylinders & motion and Hornby coupling rods i just left the parts in a box because i all i had for axles were steel rod and i didnt want to repeat the trouble of super gluing the wheels onto the axleas and trying to get them straight while the glue dries as i did on J Aspdin. Until the other day when i realised that i could pop the tyres off the wheels and put them in a set of wagon wheels the faces of these old wagon wheels are recessed from the face of the tyres by about the same as the thickness of the 14xx wheels so with a little filing the diameter down a bit they glue in very snuggly, the crank pins are Gibson. im also reusing the Hornby pick ups on the new frames while using the Hornby chassis as a ready made gearbox and wheelbase gauge. the next problem that ive ive had before recently is securing the drive gear to the axle, i want to use the Hornby gear as it already fits the chassis that it came from. Cutting a brass choclate block (wire connectors) in half and soldering a brass pin either side of it, these pins slot into two holes drilled in the gear, in my little pot of screws i found one the right size and thread for the block, i had to file down the screw's lentgh and the head diameter to make it fit perfect as a grub screw Edited February 20, 2023 by sir douglas 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 the frames for the above are now ready for assembly. the cylinders will be attached to the frames with 2 screws that screw into a 11x4x4mm styrene block and the cylinder attaches to that with 1 screw in the top rebecca by Sam, on Flickr Im going to be naming it Rebecca after a family member, the style of the body will be a small Kitson tank like the Liverpool overhead and the corringham railway 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hesperus Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 That is a lovely wee loco and I love the progress so far. One of the narrow gauge forums (gn15.info?) had an post about adding a couple of extra reduction gears between the motor and wheels of the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis with good results. Might be worth a go as it looks like you will have plenty of space. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 That is a lovely wee loco and I love the progress so far. One of the narrow gauge forums (gn15.info?) had an post about adding a couple of extra reduction gears between the motor and wheels of the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis with good results. Might be worth a go as it looks like you will have plenty of space. This one? http://gn15.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9941&hilit=Hornby+0+4+0+re+gear Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) now thats some excellent modelling in that link. i have noticed that when i first came to RMweb 6 years ago all i could do was stick a few pieces of crudely cut styrene together and paint it but now I can solder up these gearblocks and for the first time i have a very good solid rolling loco chassis with decent wheelsets. Just as the build is progressing quickly and smoothly, there was bound to be something unexpected to crop up. It did so and its the Hornby motor, I under estimated the width of the motor clip and it's brackets. here it is sitting on top of the chassis Rebecca ( 8) by Sam, on Flickr There is still at least 5 or 6mm verticlly between the centre of the gear position on theHornby chassis and the axle centre. I cant cut away the chassis for the clip brackets because of the pickups, so to negotiate this i have made up another brass gear block & pins onto a slightly larger dia' gear than the first to go into that gap and it gives the added bonus of a gear ratio Rebecca (9) by Sam, on Flickr Rebecca (10) by Sam, on Flickr and together with the first gear and block Rebecca (12) by Sam, on Flickr i just had the thought that i could sort out the gear problem on J Apdin with one of these block & pins. If anybody reading this is coming to the Nottingham show this weekend you'll see this Weighbridge office that ive just built for Green Ayre coal yard DSCN0177 by Sam, on Flickr PS that smiley that turns up because of an open brackets and an eight really annoys me but i cant do anything about it Edited March 10, 2016 by sir douglas 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 (edited) some more work on the tank wagon yesterday. Edited February 20, 2023 by sir douglas 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 (edited) Blue" is a colour that i already have and thought it would look nice but suprised at how good it actually looks Edited February 20, 2023 by sir douglas 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 (edited) Some advice from Paul (5050) down at the clubrooms a few weeks ago, i have fitted Rebecca's chassis with brass bearings, these are 1/8th bearings from the Gibson stand at York show, while i was at it i thought i might as well fit the bearings in the bearbox as well. The gearbox was made out of some nickel sheet bought from the miscellaneous bits tray on the Agenoria stand. the idler gear shaft is 1/8 brass rod, the gear itself was already a tight fit on the rod and being an idler doesnt need the chocolate block & grub screw. while bulding it i used a spare axle of the same diameter to act as the loco axle. all the screws used on the gear box are out of a tin of screws that iv been collecting for years, all sorts of lengths thicknesses and threads, find a broken pair of glasses on the ground? take it home and for the screws, a dvd player stops working? take it apart for screws and little 2 pin plugs... anyway all the screws used (except the 2 motor screws) are exactly the same so theres no need to remember which one goes where. before fitting the completed gearbox to the chassis was to solder up the plug onto the motor and the pickups, then fit the pick ups and then drill holes in the gearbox and the chassis for a brass rod to go through to old the geabox in place Edited February 20, 2023 by sir douglas 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) I finally plucked up the courage to make the point frogs for Deffors, this was my first time making frogs so i was a bt nervous. the nose jig was marked out with a sliding bevel to get the correct angle form the point templates Edited February 20, 2023 by sir douglas 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 DSCN0306 by Sam, on Flickr DSCN0307 by Sam, on Flickr DSCN0308 by Sam, on Flickr 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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