[A Pantechnicon for Farthing]

I have been looking for whomever made these and now find I have two sources thanks to this thread,  

 

There was a nice rail transported example on Penlan which I photographed some years ago:

 

[Part 2: Wagon Miscellany. Including BR/WR/GWR ballast wagons x 3.]

5 hours ago, 46444 said:

There's a shoal of Herrings awaiting building.

 

Blimey.  Save those for a day when you've a clear head, a steady hand and a lot of good daylight.   I built 7 for Tom Foster, from 6 1/2 kits - I had to scratchbuild part of one and it was what I believe they euphemistically call 'character forming'.   I tip my hat to anyone who's tried the brass kit as well.

[Jidenco LMS 12t 1-Plank]

Burnishing pens are good, but a Garryflex block is almost as good for general clean up and won't leave those lethal little fragments which impale your finger ends.  

 

Lolly sticks are also good for holding items while you solder - use them as insulating pads between the job and your fingers.  Bits of balsa will do the same thing, or you can stick components into them while you attach other parts.

 

I'm not sure cleanliness is your problem - it looks to me as though there's not been enough flux or the iron wasn't hot enough.  What did you use for both?

 

 

[Ivatt Rescue Part 1. A tale of an eBay resurrection..]

I did 46467 a few years ago for another member at Ely.   There are a lot of pictures of it as I recall, but not many really sharp ones, at least not in the books I was looking at.

[Alexander Class 15 - now with sound!]

Have you had to do anything to the bogies since you built this?  Mine (which saw a lot of use on Thurston) has worn the grooves in the bogies so badly that the axles are slopping about all over the place and it shorts every so often.  I'm looking at trying some 2mm ID tube as a bearing to rectify it.

 

[My Car Died]

Sympathies. My Pug 406 went the same way after almost 15 years in May. My kids couldn’t remember us having another car and still point out whenever we see or pass one.

 

The upside is how much the driving experience has improved since the old car was designed. I miss it, but I’m not completely convinced I’d go back to it.

[Falcon Brass GWR Damo B Motorcar wagon]

You're probably just as well off without the instructions.  Some of the kits of theirs I've built can't be done if you follow the instructions as previously assembled pieces prevent you adding others.  If you leave the roof off you can slip a block of wood inside it to rest on while you solder the strapping.  You can probably find better castings from other suppliers now and I've usually found there are plenty of extra details you can add if (as you have) you have decent photographs.  

 

I haven't built a GW kit of theirs, but the LNER ones which I have are often the wrong height and I've ended up replacing the W irons and brake assemblies.

[#1 Ratio 573 LMS 3 Plank Open Wagon]

For your next one, forget the poly cement and use Mek (or similar) and a paintbrush.

 

There's no brake cross shaft on your model above - I replace the supplied ones with wire although even a plastic one is better than a V hanger which visibly serves no purpose.

 

You're using glass - full marks. I wish I'd known that when I started.

 

Should there be a door controller and/or door springs on the sides?

 

What couplings are you planning to use? If 3 link, lose the plastic hook, they're always a waste of time.

 

Looks a neat, tidy, square build. Halfords grey primer is a good basis for painting (and I know at least one modeller who just uses that for LMS wagons).

[Ivatt 2MT]

Sheer quality, Adrian. What was the surface of the print like? Have you done much filling or smoothing to get it to this state?

[Another Doodlebug into the mix]

Looks good, that.

 

I always test my stock on a layout with handbuilt track - generally, if it will run on there, it'll run on anything.  Exhibition layouts need a lot more tolerance from stock than ones which are built and never moved.  It's worth taking time to fettle and make it work (within reason - no point in fighting a ploughed field) as you'll end up with something which will run first time anywhere you choose to take it.

[LNER (ex-GER) 6-wheel composite]

That dark brown colour is very hard to weather over, I find, because the more common weathering mixes tend to go beige, as the first photo shows.

 

Can you elaborate on what you've done to the panelling?  It looks like dark washes into the corners and a slightly glossy finishing coat?

 

Ta.

[LNER/BR B17/6 61633 Kimbolton Castle]

You're right about Kimbolton Castle, but I was wrong about Quidenham - it's Rendelsham Hall I was thinking of.  Now demolished.

[LNER/BR B17/6 61633 Kimbolton Castle]

Lovely. I have one to do for someone else and that's exactly the kind of finish I'll be aiming for.

 

If I have one for myself, it'll have to be the one named for a stately home which by the 1930s had been sold and made into a refuge for the terminally confused. I think it may be 'Quidenham'.

[Three lovelies]

If you're running a banana train, remember that the SR borrowed 200 or so vans from the LNER during the 1930s - and managed to lose a fair few in a fire somewhere. There's a bit of variety for you.

[A view from the line #12 the pressure of signalling the line]

The North Eastern trialled a similar system (may have been the same) on the ECML around Pilmoor at about the same time, but didn't widely adopt it.  There's an article in the 'British Railway Journal' NER special number.

[Falcon Brassworks GWR CC3 Tool Van]

Interesting to see what they have and haven't (yet) updated.  I had a GC 6 wheel brake van from them, which is designed with the same underfloor/W iron arrangement.  It leaves the van about 1.5 mm too low, so they supplied it with MJT rocking units as a replacement.  Mine also had no buffers, which I highlighted to them (although I've seen what Jidenco used to supply and it probably wouldn't be worth packing them).

[Plastic surgery or how to renovate a Lima BR Brake Van]

Agree about the moulding. I backdated one to an LNER diagram some time ago and it stands up very well.

[The Battle of Jutland]

I have one stripped down and ready to rebuild and repaint.  How does it stand up dimensionally?

[Derby Lightweight for Christmas - converted to P4 by New Year]

David, please do illustrate what you're doing with your Wickham.  (The N Brass one?) Mine has been on the shelf for years while I look for an idea to get it to run.

[Silver Machine (Once upon a time!) The story of a resurrected Airfix Brake Van]

You're not wrong about that kit and the older ones are better to build as the nasty bendy plastic Dapol use these days isn't as easy to work with.

 

If you fancy a bit of variety they're also dead easy to backdate to an LNER version. I've done one and Mikemeg has (I think) four completed ones on his workbench thread.

[ORMESBY HALL - I'm Going Slightly Mad]

Spotted and (hopefully) dealt with, chaps. The nice man from Ormesby Hall should be calling again soon.

[Slippery K3 at 'Retford']

Hi Dave,

 

I posted on my WB about weighting one of these down last week. There's space along each side of the boiler for thin lead sheet and you can get quite a bit into the top half of the smokebox and under the cab roof.

 

I'm sure this wasn't the case at Retford (perish the thought) but I also find with mine that if the front end goes into a dip in the track the front drivers lift off because the pony spring (that copper coloured plate) is too stiff and won't let it ride up. Fortunately on Thurston it's only a problem on the fiddle yard boards so we get away with it by going faster.

[Sprung bogie fitted to D16/3]

Enjoying this build, David. What spring have you used on the bogie? I'm sure you're aware of the dangers of it lifting the leading drivers and affecting adhesion.

[Woody End]

Hi Tony,

 

I don't know where you're located but there is a 4mm model of Brafferton as part of the Pilmoor Junction layout at Ormesby Hall in Middlesbrough. You'd be welcome to come along on a club night or weekend when the layouts are open and have a look. I'm sure some of the members who did the original research would be happy to talk to you about it as well.

 

We do get the odd visitor with a direct connection to the area, including a chap who told me he helped demolish Brafferton station.

[K's GNR Atlantic]

Thanks for the offer, John, but I was able to get what I needed from the NuCast chap at the time. I was missing two or three splashers, IIRC.

 

Having just done some for a different loco I think you'd be able to file up the centre steps from the Comet etch.

 

Jonathan