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Hornby ex LSWR/SR Adams 0415 Radial


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You can't remove the Bogie from the chassis? Should be the first Screw on the baseplate.

Tried that - it doesn't release it. That's where I don't want to force it in case something breaks. I'd like to hear from anybody that has actually removed the bogie (?Adams442T have you managed to remove the bogie to change the washer - see post#622 above, or 'to boldly go' at post #613?).

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Well all I can say is my Hall was the same. Brute force was needed because for whatever reason the Screw was done up so tightly that was the only way I could get it out. No other way to do.

I don't seem to be getting anywhere with this - I guess I will just have to put up with a slippery radial!

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  • 11 months later...

It will be curable with some delicate adjustment. It has a characteristic vulnerability of locos with carrying wheels either side of the coupled wheels. Briefly, all the carrying wheels must be able to rise relative to the plane of the railhead on which the coupled wheel tyres are sitting. Make sure all carrying wheels have upward travel, ideally very softly sprung, and you will than obtain whatever traction the mass bearing on those coupled wheels supplies.

 

(I have only tinkered with the Oxford version for a friend, but suitably adjusted i the carrying wheels department it walked away with the half dozen Bach mk1s he owns on level track - I believe that may be twice the load this feeble machine would operate with in reality -  and could take two of these up a 1 in 50 ,which should be good enough for most users. What with physics working equally well for all manufacturer's products, the same should be possible with the Hornby as I gather they are much the same weight.)

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It will be curable with some delicate adjustment. It has a characteristic vulnerability of locos with carrying wheels either side of the coupled wheels. Briefly, all the carrying wheels must be able to rise relative to the plane of the railhead on which the coupled wheel tyres are sitting. Make sure all carrying wheels have upward travel, ideally very softly sprung, and you will than obtain whatever traction the mass bearing on those coupled wheels supplies.

 

(I have only tinkered with the Oxford version for a friend, but suitably adjusted i the carrying wheels department it walked away with the half dozen Bach mk1s he owns on level track - I believe that may be twice the load this feeble machine would operate with in reality -  and could take two of these up a 1 in 50 ,which should be good enough for most users. What with physics working equally well for all manufacturer's products, the same should be possible with the Hornby as I gather they are much the same weight.)

The maximum permitted load for a solo Radial tank on the Lyme Regis branch was three coaches.

 

However, they had to cope with 1-in-40 gradients and very sharp curves (at the same time) with that load, so hardly feeble and well in excess of what anything else within the permissible axle loading could do. Hence their retention until the track was made strong enough for Ivatt 2MTs (with a bit of creative accounting over the weight). I was always a bit surprised they didn't use the tender version which wouldn't have required the latter.

 

488 on the Bluebell (back when she was in traffic) used to manage five or six without much bother. Probably more or less in line with what most 55-ton, 4-coupled Victorian tank locos would handle. I once went there on a coach outing from Axminster and our number included a former driver who was delighted to be requested to show the volunteer crew "how it was done for real". I gather they were quite surprised to find a quantity of available power they hadn't previously been aware of....

 

John

Edited by Dunsignalling
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I've got 2 of these, one worked perfectly straight out of the box, the first required a few tweaks. The slipping problem was common in the early part of this thread, if you look at post #463 there is a description of a problem with the rear pony truck.  I had this, if you smooth down the top of the pony truck with a file there is less likelihood of the pivot spigot coming out, which can happen in reverse. The rear drivers are held above rail level when that happens. Some people filed down the washer on the front bogie pivot. I didn't do that but the pickups on the bogie wheels were sticking at first on mine, needed a bit of adjustment to ease them and stop bogie wheels jamming.

 

As I say, my second one was perfect from the start. The first one  is now fine and it's worth taking a little trouble to sort out.  The loco then runs very well indeed.

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Thanks for the reply, I have examined and stripped the loco down, the front bogie has lift and is fitted with a small spring, the rear wheel however is hard up against a machined block which is part of the chassis. I think this where 'lift' is required. However, I am a bit reluctant to file more metal from it to create 'lift' in case the loco will end up not sitting horizontally. Perhaps I will try removing the rear wheel and see what happens.

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I've got 2 of these, one worked perfectly straight out of the box, the first required a few tweaks. The slipping problem was common in the early part of this thread, if you look at post #463 there is a description of a problem with the rear pony truck.  I had this, if you smooth down the top of the pony truck with a file there is less likelihood of the pivot spigot coming out, which can happen in reverse. The rear drivers are held above rail level when that happens. Some people filed down the washer on the front bogie pivot. I didn't do that but the pickups on the bogie wheels were sticking at first on mine, needed a bit of adjustment to ease them and stop bogie wheels jamming.

 

As I say, my second one was perfect from the start. The first one  is now fine and it's worth taking a little trouble to sort out.  The loco then runs very well indeed.

Thanks railroad bill, will have alook a this as well, thank you.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Some suggestions for Hornby for their Adams Radial. Assuming that the tooling for this loco is still viable, it would be great if Hornby could do the Adams radial in LSWR Drummond livery ( as per their very nice M7 ) and a Southern Railway Maunsell olive green version. This would give them more sales for this loco. Come on Hornby. How about it ?

Cheers,

   Chris

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

Gents I wonder if anyone has a similar problem with their late BR Hornby Adams Tank.

I have noticed that the rear coupling on the pony truck hangs at quite a low angle and seems to fall out on a regular basis.

When the loco has coupled to rolling stock the low angle tends to lift the truck causing it to derail quite easily.

I have had a read through the thread but cannot see any similar problems.

Any response would be much appreciated.

Rgds

Stephen

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  • RMweb Gold

While I've not noticed this problem on the Radial, I have had the exact same problem on a couple of other items of Hornby rolling stock, including the M7, but the worst offender at the moment is the Van C.

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My solution to the loose NEM type couplings and pockets in any such locos or stock is to remove the NEM pocket with its coupling, stick a very small blob of Blu-tack or black-tack to the slot for the fishtail of the pocket, then push the pocket firmly back in. That is sufficient to prevent the coupling assembly dropping out while running, and usually enough to maintain the correct height as well, yet is not so permanent that it cannot be replaced if necessary.

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35 minutes ago, SRman said:

My solution to the loose NEM type couplings and pockets in any such locos or stock is to remove the NEM pocket with its coupling, stick a very small blob of Blu-tack or black-tack to the slot for the fishtail of the pocket, then push the pocket firmly back in. That is sufficient to prevent the coupling assembly dropping out while running, and usually enough to maintain the correct height as well, yet is not so permanent that it cannot be replaced if necessary.

Thanks for your reply. I will try the blu-tack solution and see how it goes.

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  • 1 year later...

Ran my R3335 for the first time, very jerky running on anything other than full speed.

 

Removed the body and found that one pair of driving wheels was catching on the underside of the splasher, gradually starting to wear away the metal.

 

Thought I would post this in case anyone else's radial is a poor runner at slow speed.

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On 15/06/2018 at 19:11, Dunsignalling said:

The maximum permitted load for a solo Radial tank on the Lyme Regis branch was three coaches.

 

However, they had to cope with 1-in-40 gradients and very sharp curves (at the same time) with that load, so hardly feeble and well in excess of what anything else within the permissible axle loading could do. Hence their retention until the track was made strong enough for Ivatt 2MTs (with a bit of creative accounting over the weight). I was always a bit surprised they didn't use the tender version which wouldn't have required the latter.

 

....

 

John

 

Would this be due to the lack of a turntable at Lyme Regis, requiring tender first running on the return journey? 

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  • 3 months later...

Hi all, Ive had a quick look through the thread as Im fettling my 0415 currently having experienced all the listed problems above.  The sole remaining issue now is pick ups for me.  The loco runs ok but randomly stops.  I cant work it out as the pick ups seem ok and the wheels/track are clean.  It's DCC chipped (no stay alive) and Im running out of ideas.

 

BTW, having attempted the pony truck spring reduction to increase driving wheel adhesion, I gave up for want of breaking any parts and simply added lead to the underside of model between the driving wheels and adhesion is greatly improved.  

 

It's a nice model but runs like a dog at the moment.  I had similar issues with the M7s and cured them in similar ways more successfully- changed out the washers in the pony trucks reducing their downward force, added weight and fixed the loose NEMs.  My 2 M7s run very nicely now and can pull enough for my layout.  

 

dave

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23 minutes ago, S&DWatty said:

Hi all, Ive had a quick look through the thread as Im fettling my 0415 currently having experienced all the listed problems above.  The sole remaining issue now is pick ups for me.  The loco runs ok but randomly stops.  I cant work it out as the pick ups seem ok and the wheels/track are clean.  It's DCC chipped (no stay alive) and Im running out of ideas.

 

BTW, having attempted the pony truck spring reduction to increase driving wheel adhesion, I gave up for want of breaking any parts and simply added lead to the underside of model between the driving wheels and adhesion is greatly improved.  

 

It's a nice model but runs like a dog at the moment.  I had similar issues with the M7s and cured them in similar ways more successfully- changed out the washers in the pony trucks reducing their downward force, added weight and fixed the loose NEMs.  My 2 M7s run very nicely now and can pull enough for my layout.  

 

dave

Tried cleaning the wheel backs as well as the treads?

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5 hours ago, S&DWatty said:

Hi all, Ive had a quick look through the thread as Im fettling my 0415 currently having experienced all the listed problems above.  The sole remaining issue now is pick ups for me.  The loco runs ok but randomly stops.  I cant work it out as the pick ups seem ok and the wheels/track are clean.  It's DCC chipped (no stay alive) and Im running out of ideas.

 

BTW, having attempted the pony truck spring reduction to increase driving wheel adhesion, I gave up for want of breaking any parts and simply added lead to the underside of model between the driving wheels and adhesion is greatly improved.  

 

It's a nice model but runs like a dog at the moment.  I had similar issues with the M7s and cured them in similar ways more successfully- changed out the washers in the pony trucks reducing their downward force, added weight and fixed the loose NEMs.  My 2 M7s run very nicely now and can pull enough for my layout.  

 

dave

 

Dave, I have four Radials and whilst each have their own characteristics, they're not as bad as this. These are nice responsive locos.  It does sound like you are having issues. Incidentally, I've not felt the need to add weight as you describe. 

 

Where is the loco stopping, plain trackwork? On a bend ? Through pointwork?, same place every time? Its difficult to comment without knowing this. 

 

However, I  know you say the pick ups seem okay, but those on the bogie are tricky to adjust. Too much and they can provide excessive resistance. Too little and they don't pick up. 

 

I can see that you make reference to 'all the above' but does this include the radial truck. ?

I haven't, but some here have filed this down to reduce the likelihood of it lifting the drivers over less than flat track. The tab must locate fully in the slot. 

 

If the pick ups on the bogie are iffy then any slight undulation could lift the drivers if the radial truck is not seated properly, hence the stop. 

 

In addition, you don't mention which example you have.  Some examples of 30582 were afflicted by dodgy wiring to the DCC sockety thing. 

 

Little things can affect these locos such as overtightening the two screws in the side 'tanks'. This can cause the rods to bind as they rotate. 

 

Lots to think about but all doable by way of a process of elimination. 

 

Rob. 

 

 

Edited by NHY 581
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On 18/12/2020 at 16:54, NHY 581 said:

 

Dave, I have four Radials and whilst each have their own characteristics, they're not as bad as this. These are nice responsive locos.  It does sound like you are having issues. Incidentally, I've not felt the need to add weight as you describe. 

 

Where is the loco stopping, plain trackwork? On a bend ? Through pointwork?, same place every time? Its difficult to comment without knowing this. 

 

However, I  know you say the pick ups seem okay, but those on the bogie are tricky to adjust. Too much and they can provide excessive resistance. Too little and they don't pick up. 

 

I can see that you make reference to 'all the above' but does this include the radial truck. ?

I haven't, but some here have filed this down to reduce the likelihood of it lifting the drivers over less than flat track. The tab must locate fully in the slot. 

 

If the pick ups on the bogie are iffy then any slight undulation could lift the drivers if the radial truck is not seated properly, hence the stop. 

 

In addition, you don't mention which example you have.  Some examples of 30582 were afflicted by dodgy wiring to the DCC sockety thing. 

 

Little things can affect these locos such as overtightening the two screws in the side 'tanks'. This can cause the rods to bind as they rotate. 

 

Lots to think about but all doable by way of a process of elimination. 

 

Rob. 

 

 

Many thanks Rob.  There's a couple of good pointers there for me so Ill work through tem.  In particular, Ive noticed that the radial truck appears to be partly sprung by the pick up wires so will see if I can eliminate that.  Some of my track is not level and that is probably adding to the issues, but the loco randomly stops on plain, straight, curved......well anywhere really!  However, I also note your comment about the rods binding if the body is screwed on too tightly and will have a look more closely at that since I did initially suspect a mechanical issue.

 

Ive already had the "fun" of chipping this model and the attendant factory mis-wiring of the bogie pick-ups.  Mine wasnt as bad a some have reported (they have experienced crossed polarity and some wired to the lighting pins....).  However, Ive blown one DCC chip in the process and that has had to be replaced.

 

Thanks for the steers- Ill continue to work on the model as it is a nice addition, ran well on DC but the slipping is its major issue on my layout.

 

rgds

 

dave

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  • 3 weeks later...

An interesting thread - I gave up on my R3333 Adams Radial. If the pony truck is incorrectly seated, with a very gentle push the loco will go about six feet down the track - with drivers obviously locked. I have yet to find a decoder which fits well, even a TCS DP2X-UK hit the bottom of the coal bunker, and the loco will not run with the body on - runs superbly with it off. I have already rewired the decoder socket - incorrectly wired during manufacture. It is now at the back of the stock cupboard and will probably not see the light of day again. 

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