Prometheus Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 I generally use 2-part epoxy of superglue for attaching / joining parts when modelling. I think that an impact adhesive would be more appropriate for attaching Comet brass overlays to plastic coach bodies however. Can anyone advise please on the most suitable make of impact adhesive ? Thanks all Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted August 22, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2016 I use EvoStick 1 minute, to give a little time for adjustment before the bond sticks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 Thanks - if it works for you it'll work for me ! Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 I use a contact cement. Local brands here in Australia included Bear Brand (is that still available?) and Selleys. I roughen the insides of the brass sides to provide a key for the glue.These glues tend to attack the plastic base coach sides a little, which is actually a good thing as that means that when the brass sides are applied, the glue "grabs" and remains attached to both parts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 I've used both 5 minute Araldite and the longer setting type with equal success. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Taz Posted August 22, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2016 Another vote for Evostick. Hasn't let me down so far. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 I know someone that used to use superglue. When vehicles left in a car boot the materials expanded at different rates and the glue failed with the result of the sides springing apart. Not aware of this happening with EvoStik. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prometheus Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 Thanks Mike [and all, too]. I had planned to only use superglue gel for the very narrow upper ends to prevent any peeling away. This bit: Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 I favour the use of contact/impact cement for jobs like this. Epoxy is such a faff, I only very reluctantly use it - and haven't for a very long time. In Right Track 4 (from BRM) on Detailing & Improving RTR, Tony Wright changes the side of a coach and uses impact cement to fix it. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted August 22, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 22, 2016 Evostick and it 'fills' any little gaps. Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
County of Yorkshire Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 Just to "bump" this thread. When people say they use Evostik for brass sides onto plastic RTR, what is the exact type of Evostik used please? Just conscious that Evostik is a brand name with many different products under the brand... Pointers would be very much appreciated as i'm losing patience with trying to get my GWR D125 sides attached to a Bachmann E158 shell. Cheers. CoY Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Alder Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 This one for me - 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 (edited) It is a brand, but there is a stuff which is called Evostik impact adhesive. Comes in tubes and tins. https://www.homebase.co.uk/evo-stik-impact-adhesive-tin-250ml_p087714 That's the stuff just posted by Ben Alder. Jason Edited March 9, 2021 by Steamport Southport 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 I use Araldite. Can't say whether it's better, but it works. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 I have used Dunlop Thix 0 Fix for years now. Used for attaching card sides to Perpex. What helps with this is that it is thicksotropic (spellin?) meaning that you can apply it with a small brush and is it goes on it changes from a Gel to be more spreadable. Coat each side and when dry it's a contact adhesive. Using a small paint brush means you can get the glue in much smaller areas. I've got coaches build this way in 1972 and they are still perfect. Dave 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 2 hours ago, dasatcopthorne said: I have used Dunlop Thix 0 Fix for years now. Used for attaching card sides to Perpex. Dave Dave can you elaborate this method? type of coaches etc. Khris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 6 hours ago, kandc_au said: Dave can you elaborate this method? type of coaches etc. Khris Hello Khris. No problem but I hope you don't mind me referring you to my series of postings about a coach build I did a few years back. Hope it helps. Dave. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee-H Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 Hi All, I have very little experience of working with brass but am thinking of buying some Comet coach sides to convert some OO-gauge mark 1s. Should I file down the plastic sides and then glue the brass overlays onto them? I’m assuming the brass is too thin to form a coach side on its own and needs a base to be attached to. Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere but I’ve been searching for answers and am now more confused than before! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheatley Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 File down the sides to remove all the surface detail and roughen the surface, dont try to thin them down by exactly the thickness of the brass. You will probably find you need to enlarge the window openings too otherwise you'll be able to see the old sides where they don't quite match, and they'll be easier to glaze. You may well finish up with just the bottom half and a couple of uprights but that's fine, as long as two of the uprights are at the ends of each side. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 22 minutes ago, Lee-H said: Hi All, I have very little experience of working with brass but am thinking of buying some Comet coach sides to convert some OO-gauge mark 1s. Should I file down the plastic sides and then glue the brass overlays onto them? I’m assuming the brass is too thin to form a coach side on its own and needs a base to be attached to. Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere but I’ve been searching for answers and am now more confused than before! The brass coach sides are quite capable of being used without a plastic backing - after all, Comet supply complete coach kits. In some cases, when converting Tri-ang Hornby Mk.1s, I have dispensed entirely with the plastic sides and attached Evergreen plastic rectangular, L and Z sections as the bracing / location strips to the edges of the brass sides. CJI. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 Try Dunlop This-O-Fix. It starts as jelly-like and using a small art brush to apply it, it softens up and spreads. 'Paint' both parts and bring them together after about 5 mins. I have card fixed to Perspex from 1972. No sign of movement. Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 8 hours ago, Lee-H said: Hi All, I have very little experience of working with brass but am thinking of buying some Comet coach sides to convert some OO-gauge mark 1s. Should I file down the plastic sides and then glue the brass overlays onto them? I’m assuming the brass is too thin to form a coach side on its own and needs a base to be attached to. Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere but I’ve been searching for answers and am now more confused than before! You can stick the brass sides to a RTR Mk1 but when I did it the excess width really annoyed me so I cut the sides away, then the profile was wrong so it went on eBay. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted November 18, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 18, 2021 I use either epoxy glue good quality stuff like Devcon. Or I use solder to ends. Devocn for roof. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted November 18, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 18, 2021 If you are attaching Comet overlays to RTR coach bodies, how do you prevent the coach from being too wide? The brass is a about half a mm thick so two sides will mean a coach overwide by a scale 3 inches. This is enough to be noticeable if the coach is in a rake with vehicles which do not have overlays. The sides presumably protrude from beneath the roof edges as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted November 18, 2021 Share Posted November 18, 2021 31 minutes ago, The Johnster said: If you are attaching Comet overlays to RTR coach bodies, how do you prevent the coach from being too wide? The brass is a about half a mm thick so two sides will mean a coach overwide by a scale 3 inches. This is enough to be noticeable if the coach is in a rake with vehicles which do not have overlays. The sides presumably protrude from beneath the roof edges as well. You file the face of the side down the thickness of the overlay! Then glue the overlay onto the thinned down side! Khris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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