Jump to content

KRModels announce a GT3 Model


Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

GT3 green was NOT BR green - it was a much bluer shade.

 

John Isherwood.

A fair point but I think I know what Engineer143125 means. One of my first reactions on viewing my model was, “Why can’t Hornby achieve this standard of finish?”

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
55 minutes ago, No Decorum said:

A fair point but I think I know what Engineer143125 means. One of my first reactions on viewing my model was, “Why can’t Hornby achieve this standard of finish?”

 

If we're referring to finish - I'm with you all the way!!

 

Getting the colour correct isn't rocket science, either - Hornby Dublo managed it in the eary 1950s.

 

John Isherwood.

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

If we're referring to finish - I'm with you all the way!!

 

Getting the colour correct isn't rocket science, either - Hornby Dublo managed it in the eary 1950s.

 

John Isherwood.

As for Hornby’s BR greens, the rocket science seems to be of Elon Musk standard. Didn’t his last rocket undergo a “rapid unscheduled disassembly” on landing? (It blew up.)

Link to post
Share on other sites

A little tip for those that want to change the headcode discs. 

 

I found the centre white discs to be a tight fit in the front. And found removing easier with the body off, fortunately quite easy 2 screws in the front corner and 2 about 2/3rds back. 

 

Then used a business card slotted in from the top to allow a pair of fine tweezers or a flat screw driver to ease the disc off. (R&R card just happened to be on my workbench)

 

IMG_20210324_155138.jpg.0196b926d9ffef4ba7baa5fe59669688.jpg

 

The green ones didn't seem as tight to replace thankfully. 

 

Hope that helps

  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

The front buffers and steps are on the skew because the pilot holes for the ends of the wire handrails are in the wrong place. I could have drilled two more pilot holes but if I got those wrong as well it would pretty soon start to look a mess. What I did was remove the buffer beam (two screws) and snip about 1mm off the end of each handrail before refitting the buffer beam. The handrails are not tethered at their ends now but that is not really an issue. They are not vulnerable.

With regard to the back to front bogie, I just sliced the coupling housing off and turned the bogie around. I won't be using the front coupling anyway and have fitted the prototypical dummy ones (which BTW are fragile and I'll be fitting a metal aftermarket one). If a replacement bogie frame is being sent out by KRM, it will still be handy to fit later or just to keep in the box.

It would have been nice to have some DIP switches to switch off cab lights and front / rear tail lights.

Tender body is easy to open up and can be gently prised from its chassis, hardly any force needed. 

The rearmost plug can be disconnected if you want to disable the tail lights when working a train. 

Unfortunately, disconnecting the large 4 pin plug at the front disables the cab light, directional front markers and the permanently on white tail lights. Rather than snipping the two outermost black wires on that plug, I think I'll just snip the cab light wires inside the loco. 

I can either live with the white tail lights or have a go directing that wire to the rear socket using the world standard of trial and error. 

If I get the loco body apart, I might also see if the xener diodes (cab and front tail lights) are interchangeable. 

I am assuming that KRM will address some or all of these issues on the second batch. 

Still, gremlins aside, this is a cracking model.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Circuit board diagram (located inside tender) viewed from top.

Rear to the left / front to the right .... 

(Note that red / black wires are transposed for the rear lights as they work backwards).

KR Models Circuit Board.png

Edited by SGP
addition to text)
Link to post
Share on other sites
47 minutes ago, SGP said:

Circuit board diagram (located inside tender) viewed from top.

Rear to the left / front to the right .... 

KR Models Circuit Board.png

Thanks SGP - very useful. It looks as though there are independent supplies to each of the lighting groups. Perhaps these are all seperately programmable for DCC fitted if a V5 decoder is being used (rather than extra switches). I am still not sure what F20 on the sound fitted models was intended to do.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Received mine today.

 

What can can I Say? It is a stunning model and clearly an early contender for Model of the Year. KR Models deserve all the praise they are getting for delivering a truly outstanding, quality model of a prototype which none of us ever  thought we would see, within a relatively short timescale (it probably would have been 6 months sooner had it not been for Covid) and at a good price.

 

KR  have also had to take on the chin numerous totally groundless, cheap comments, criticisms and attempts at undermining them and this model on these pages and at all times have kept their dignity, patience, professionalism and good humour when their critics certainly haven’t. If KR are “gloating” then good for them because they have earned the gloating rights. 

 

I can’t wait to get my Fell at the end of this year! 

 

 

  • Like 3
  • Agree 12
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold
3 hours ago, Pre Grouping fan said:

A little tip for those that want to change the headcode discs. 

 

I found the centre white discs to be a tight fit in the front. And found removing easier with the body off, fortunately quite easy 2 screws in the front corner and 2 about 2/3rds back. 

 

Then used a business card slotted in from the top to allow a pair of fine tweezers or a flat screw driver to ease the disc off. (R&R card just happened to be on my workbench)

 

IMG_20210324_155138.jpg.0196b926d9ffef4ba7baa5fe59669688.jpg

 

The green ones didn't seem as tight to replace thankfully. 

 

Hope that helps

Does it need to be a roads and rails business card or has it been tested with others ?

 

:D

  • Funny 9
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, D9001 said:

KR  have also had to take on the chin numerous totally groundless, cheap comments, criticisms and attempts at undermining them and this model on these pages and at all times have kept their dignity, patience, professionalism and good humour when their critics certainly haven’t. If KR are “gloating” then good for them because they have earned the gloating rights.

 

I was going to ignore this as purchasers seem happy with their GT3's but as you seem intent on trolling I'll answer you with some facts as none of the comments were groundless. 

 

The faults that purchasers are bringing up on this thread were on the EP's and were seen a year+ ago  but no one wanted to know, they just wanted to heap praise and shout down anybody who thought otherwise.

 12+ months ago after seeing the initial EP at Warley 2019 and then on the Hornby Magazine youtube review I wrote to KR  with complementary comments  but pointed out the front lights being white rather than red tail lights but received no reply.

When what looked like a 2nd EP was presented I wrote again mentioning the guard irons on the rear of the front bogie (seen on the HM video), missing detail on the tender frames (apart from the spring hanger), the wonky front steps,  missing hubcaps, window on the rear of the tender which was plated over and the same white lights on the front. I even suggested possible fixes depending on the tooling before it left the factory, but again I didn't even get a reply.  

When Mike Wild at Hornby Magazine showed the 'Production Model' I even wrote for a 3rd time and said the front lights were wrong and you were still able to see the guard iron on the rear of the bogie. I assumed by that time that the lack of detail was a commercial decision to keep their production costs down, but those 2 are very visible faults and should not have left the factory.

For whatever reason KR didn't acknowledge or reply, their choice. 

They've now delivered a decent looking model with a good finish but it has some issues which it shouldn't have and as a purchaser I wouldn't be happy with, if you accept it that's your choice,  but I tried to make it a better model by sending comments to improve it rather than just brown nosing.

 

I was asked over the last couple of days if I would re-assemble part of the layout so that a friend could run his in, even though I am part way through a house move I have agreed to do this as I am interested to see what it does on a 20+ metre circuit.  He should receive his soon as I understand he has had an email concerning delivery.

 

  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold
33 minutes ago, chris p bacon said:

 

I am interested to see what it does on a 20+ metre circuit. 

 

It certainly runs very smoothly with a LokPilot Standard decoder through all speed steps. The leading wheelset on the bogie pops off at a particular location on my layout. I think this is due to tight gauge on a soldered joint across a baseboard connection, so a little bit of work on my track, and we should b good to go.

  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Pre Grouping fan said:

A little tip for those that want to change the headcode discs. 

 

I found the centre white discs to be a tight fit in the front. And found removing easier with the body off, fortunately quite easy 2 screws in the front corner and 2 about 2/3rds back. 

 

Then used a business card slotted in from the top to allow a pair of fine tweezers or a flat screw driver to ease the disc off. (R&R card just happened to be on my workbench)

 

IMG_20210324_155138.jpg.0196b926d9ffef4ba7baa5fe59669688.jpg

 

The green ones didn't seem as tight to replace thankfully. 

 

Hope that helps

Thank you, that is very useful, not least in telling me which screws keep the body on.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
27 minutes ago, No Decorum said:

Thank you, that is very useful, not least in telling me which screws keep the body on.

 

Your welcome. Yes, information on things like body removal, the detail bag and general maintenance is missing from the information, perhaps something to work on for future models. 

 

I guessed when I first tried to remove the body thinking it was the rear 2 and the single screw at the front of the driving axles, that didn't go well and just separated the 2 pieces of the chassis!

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, chris p bacon said:

 

I was going to ignore this as purchasers seem happy with their GT3's but as you seem intent on trolling I'll answer you with some facts as none of the comments were groundless. 

 

The faults that purchasers are bringing up on this thread were on the EP's and were seen a year+ ago  but no one wanted to know, they just wanted to heap praise and shout down anybody who thought otherwise.

 12+ months ago after seeing the initial EP at Warley 2019 and then on the Hornby Magazine youtube review I wrote to KR  with complementary comments  but pointed out the front lights being white rather than red tail lights but received no reply.

When what looked like a 2nd EP was presented I wrote again mentioning the guard irons on the rear of the front bogie (seen on the HM video), missing detail on the tender frames (apart from the spring hanger), the wonky front steps,  missing hubcaps, window on the rear of the tender which was plated over and the same white lights on the front. I even suggested possible fixes depending on the tooling before it left the factory, but again I didn't even get a reply.  

When Mike Wild at Hornby Magazine showed the 'Production Model' I even wrote for a 3rd time and said the front lights were wrong and you were still able to see the guard iron on the rear of the bogie. I assumed by that time that the lack of detail was a commercial decision to keep their production costs down, but those 2 are very visible faults and should not have left the factory.

For whatever reason KR didn't acknowledge or reply, their choice. 

They've now delivered a decent looking model with a good finish but it has some issues which it shouldn't have and as a purchaser I wouldn't be happy with, if you accept it that's your choice,  but I tried to make it a better model by sending comments to improve it rather than just brown nosing.

 

I was asked over the last couple of days if I would re-assemble part of the layout so that a friend could run his in, even though I am part way through a house move I have agreed to do this as I am interested to see what it does on a 20+ metre circuit.  He should receive his soon as I understand he has had an email concerning delivery.

 

Not as an attack but out of genuine curiosity-when you say wrote to KR, I assume that was by email as well as comments on the thread here?

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, KR Models said:

You will be getting a full new replacement bogie and buffer beam in a few weeks when we can get them produced and dispatched. 

Marvellous. Now that’s proactive customer service. :good:

Thank you. 

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Whilst fiddling about, I thought I'd add round buffers to the tender. 

Strangely, the real locomotive had oval buffers at the front and large round buffers at the rear. 

The locomotive was a bit of a Frankenstein being built in 1951 as a bare shell locomotive and even ran as a skeleton in those early years with an ordinary tank wagon substituting as a tender. 

By 1960 they had decided to finish it and test it main line, hence with its steam outline it was out of date by 1961 when it appeared in its completed form. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The headcode discs I found to be quite easy to remove using just my fingernails but a modelling blade would do. 

Pull from the bottom of the disc, not the top or you could snap in half. 

The green and brown folded discs will need touching up where cut from the sprue as they are actually painted white plastic. 

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold
8 hours ago, 69843 said:

Not as an attack but out of genuine curiosity-when you say wrote to KR, I assume that was by email as well as comments on the thread here?

I did,  The first 2 times were to an address given at Warley , the last was via the 'Contact' page on the site,  either different email address or it was the embedded form (Not 100% sure on that one, it was quite some time ago and a lot going on with moving house and company). It wasn't facebook as I do not use that.

  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 21/03/2021 at 17:29, 69843 said:

SKF is Svenska Kullagerfabriken-the manufacturer of the roller bearings used on the locomotive (and thousands of other locos).

Thank you 69843 for that something new I've learnt

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 21/03/2021 at 17:29, 69843 said:

SKF is Svenska Kullagerfabriken-the manufacturer of the roller bearings used on the locomotive (and thousands of other locos).

 

Am I right in thinking that, in the 1950s / 60s, these were marketed under the trade name SKEFCO?

 

John Isherwood.

  • Agree 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
45 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

Am I right in thinking that, in the 1950s / 60s, these were marketed under the trade name SKEFCO?

 

John Isherwood.

You could be right, but that's out of my sphere of knowledge I apologise.

Link to post
Share on other sites

With the loco body off, it reveals that the front xeners SMD's are a double white unit whilst the cab xener SMD is a single red so no swapping about. Whilst a white unit could be replaced for the cab, I decided just to block the front tail lights and the cab lights with black tape and be done with them both. They will be on but not visible ... on second thoughts it is probably better though to snip the wires in the tender and maybe add my own DIP switches in there. 

While everything is all apart, I'll be insulating the fine wiring from possible chafing on the metal parts. 

Edited by SGP
terminology
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.