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Gareth's Workbench: P4 and 2mmFS projects


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Judging by the comments, the area to the rear of the brace is a cosmetic cover-otherwise there will be a space between the boiler and tanks-looking strange, and a magnet for rubbish and debris.  I cannot see this cover as an extra brace for two heavy water tanks.  A similar look would be the top of a GWR pannier tank, where the tank wrappers are extended to meet the boiler curvature, simply to present a neat appearance

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been a little while without an update, so here is one.

 

On the Goods tank I have decided to ditch most of the large castings. They're too thick for what should be sheet metal and they're quite pockmarked. With that decision made I reduced the general arrangement drawing I have down to 4mm/ft and used it to cut out a pair of tank sides and a tank front/boiler brace. In time I will cut out a new footplate and the rest of the cab parts. Not yet sure if I'll keep the smokebox as a casting or replace it as well.

Here are the sides (still tacked together) and the tank fronts:

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More recently however I have been again seized by the 2mm bug. I'm building a Presflo from the 2mm Association kit. As with all their kits that I've built, it goes together really well. I've said it before, 4mm kit designers can learn a lot from the 2mm ones. I've ordered a pile of mineral wagon kits, thinking of doing something Forest of Deanish with those and a Pannier tank. Stay tuned for updates on that.

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Edited by garethashenden
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  • 3 weeks later...

I have finally finished the Jinty conversion I started about three years ago. Well, it still needs weathering, so maybe it's not actually done.

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I have also been finishing up a few part completed projects. A BR brake van, BR plywood van, Presflo, and several mineral.

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Once again, I have run out of wheels (a perpetual problem) and I still have four 16T minerals to build.

Edited by garethashenden
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  • 4 weeks later...

Progress has been made with the new body for the Goods Engine. I had previously cut out the tank/cab sides and tank front. Most of two months have passed in which I did some 2mm Finescale modelling, some American N scale modelling, and bought another Goods tank kit. This one however is the Mallard etched kit. The chassis is quite rudimentary but the body looks pretty straight forward and will be quite a bit faster than cutting each piece by hand. That said, given the amount I have invested in these two kits, I would like to end up with two locomotives. So I shall persevere with the scratchbuilding. To that end I have now cut out the footplate and cab back, both from 20 thou nickel silver. These five pieces have since been assembled into a box. There's not a lot of detail yet, but they already look better than their whitemetal predecessors. The next step will be chassis fixings followed by the valances and buffer beams. The valances have been cut out although they are still over length. I'm contemplating using the white metal buffer beams as they seem to be well cast and the correct size, but I may fabricate them as well. We shall see.
In the meantime, here is the current state of play.

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Edited by garethashenden
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Don't know why, but those wheels said "LNWR" to me when I saw them in the photo just now.

 

Dennis

 

The wheels are 4'5" H-spoke wheels. They should be 4'4", but this is the closest available. The class was fitted with either these or quite airy normal spokes. Not really sure how best to represent the latter.

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The wheels are 4'5" H-spoke wheels. They should be 4'4", but this is the closest available. The class was fitted with either these or quite airy normal spokes. Not really sure how best to represent the latter.

 

58850 has a mixed set - four H-spoke, 2 plain. Have you tried removing the etch plates from the wheel faces and seeing whether the result passes muster?

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The AGW LNWR wheels are a unique size/spokes combination in their range. I don't know whether the moulded centre behind the overlay is a standard spoke profile or not, nor can I tell from looking at the ones I have.

 

IIRC the centre is not a standard spoke as a tyre came off one I was working with and the thing came apart.  I did get it back together again though but it was some time ago.

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  • 1 month later...

I am really bad at finishing projects. In post #71 on page 3 I started a 2mm finescale model of a Great Northern 20T 8 wheel brakevan. I've finally come back to it and fitted the wheels and end posts. Just the roof, foot boards, and possibly brakes left. Oh, and painting/lettering.

 

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Edited by garethashenden
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  • 2 weeks later...

I first became interested in British railways around 2008. I had previously modelled American N scale (and still do) so the logical thing to do was British N. I started to build a layout, something Southern, but never got very far. About the only thing that I actually achieved was joining the N gauge society and ordering a few kits. In the end I was put off by the couplers and a general change of interests tending towards old BMWs. In the intervening years I spent four years in London before moving back to the States. I managed to learn some engineering, but lots of modelling skills. One of these things is that Finescale modelling is worth the extra effort. All of this is a round about way of saying that a few days ago I found an abandoned kit in a drawer and decided to rescue it and do it properly.

This is a N Gauge Society kit for a Southern Queen Mary Brakevan. At the time I was afraid of soldering, so I put it together with superglue and then painted it in the wrong shade of brown. Except that I painted it before I finished building it. A complete mess. I stopped by the local hardware store yesterday and picked up a quart of acetone. I poured some of this into a jar, stuck the model in, and put the lid on. 18 hours later there was no more superglue and hardly any paint. I cleaned up the last few bits with a fiberglass pencil and then set about reassembling the kit. Except this time I used solder. Forming the solebars was a complete pain, but everything else went pretty well. One ducket missed the acetone bath last night, so it will be attached later. Bogies will be ordered from the 2mm Association, along with wheels and bits for other projects.

Here is the current state of affairs.

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Buying a RTR one and changing the wheels would have been easier, but I figured I should at least try to save the kit.

Edited by garethashenden
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It's rather rare that my bursts of 2mm modelling last long enough for whatever new kit I've ordered to arrive. Usually, it will have to wait for the next time I feel like working in 2mm. However, at the moment things are going quite well and I've been virtually 2mm only since Christmas. This has given Royal Mail and USPS time to work together and bring me new sheets of nickel silver. This arrived yesterday and I started today. About 45 minutes invested so far. Can you tell what it is?

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Edited by garethashenden
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It's rather rare that my bursts of 2mm modelling last long enough for whatever new kit I've ordered to arrive. Usually, it will have to wait for the next time I feel like working in 2mm. However, at the moment things are going quite well and I've been virtually 2mm only since Christmas. This has given Royal Mail and USPS time to work together and bring me new sheets of nickel silver. This arrived yesterday and I started today. About 45 minutes invested so far. Can you tell what it is?

 

 

Rather Drummond-ish aspect to the cab cut-out and a long bit of footplating at the front - M7? 

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Made a bit more progress with the M7. Following some advice from Jerry Clifford, I undid what I had done, then attached the valances and bufferbeams. After that I cut a piece of wood to just fit inside the valances/bufferbeams. Then I rebuilt the bodywork. I'm currently waiting on the wheels and gears, so there won't be much more progress for a little while.

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Edited by garethashenden
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I need to clean my workbench..

 

Ok, here we go >>>  :offtopic: 

 

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The 'W R Van' - Wirral Railway, there's not a lot of them about....

The loco in grey primer - a LNWR Dreadnought, been like that for nearly 30 years.

Edited by Penlan
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