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Hornby Announce Peckett W4 0-4-0ST


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I understood that Percy was an Avonside loco that had been rebuilt by Hunslet - most distinctively, his saddle tank doesn't extend forward to cover the smokebox. The Fat Controller "went to an Engine Workshop, and they showed him all sorts of Tank Engines". Given the difficult motive power situation he was facing, the situation was pressing so a day trip from Sodor to Leeds seems much more likely than the longer journey to Bristol.

Well in 2017 the Percy restoration appeal will be launching. As the locomotive named thus is a Hawthorn Leslie at Middleton there is still a link loosely to Leeds!

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I'd recommend a cotton bud soaked in Brasso wadding myself. Comes out nice and shiny with no trace of what went before.

Sounds interesting, but can you kindly just clarify exactly what 'Brasso wadding' is, please? I know about Brasso, not quite clear about the wadding bit.

 

Many thanks.

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Sounds interesting, but can you kindly just clarify exactly what 'Brasso wadding' is, please? I know about Brasso, not quite clear about the wadding bit.

 

Many thanks.

 

 

Try looking for Duraglit.

Bernard

Both substances come soaked in wadding.

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Sounds interesting, but can you kindly just clarify exactly what 'Brasso wadding' is, please? I know about Brasso, not quite clear about the wadding bit.

 

Many thanks.

 

Basically what Phil and Bernard said and Arthur illustrated, albeit I've never heard of Silvo.

 

 

Depending on the size of the surface to be cleaned off you can either tear off a bit of the wadding, as Arthur says, and polish away, or for more precise work - say removing the words Huntley & Palmers without taking off the lining, I'd recommend shoving one end of a cotton bud into the wadding long enough to absorb the yellow gunk, and then away you go.

 

Two points to note, however:

 

As soon as you're done you need to wipe off any residue otherwise it will dry a waxy white - the dry end of the cotton bud does this quite nicely. Otherwise I've been usig the stuff for years without any ill effects - although as usual it will fog clear perspex.

 

Secondly, it does what it says on the tin, ie: it polishes the surface. This is obviously a good thing if you intend to re-number or re-letter with transfers, but otherwise its a good idea if possible to polish beyond the immediate area being cleaned in order to avoid an obvious shiny patch. On the other hand, this works quite well in weathering, especially coaching stock, if you first apply the muck and then "clean" it off with the Brasso you recreate the effect of a glossy varnished surface with the grime on top.

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I don't know if this still holds true but, years ago, I read/discovered that these metal polishes had different grades of 'abrasive' in their makeup.

Brasso  ....{the liquid, that is} , [apprently] had a coarser abrasive than Silvo. [the liquid]... Duraglit was somewhere in between.

 

Solvol [a paste] was a bit coarser than brasso.....but was a bit more abrasive than T-cut....

 

I don't know if this all still holds true...but was just a thought..

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That sounds right. Brass and Silvo are both made by the same company, Reckitts. Silvo is less abrasive and intended for silver and gold, Brasso for brass and copper. Silvo can be used on anything but Brasso, being more abrasive, is not recommended for use on the precious metals.

 

Presumably other brands differ in the same way.

 

 

.

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That sounds right. Brass and Silvo are both made by the same company, Reckitts. Silvo is less abrasive and intended for silver and gold, Brasso for brass and copper. Silvo can be used on anything but Brasso, being more abrasive, is not recommended for use on the precious metals.

 

Presumably other brands differ in the same way.

 

 

.

 

Brasso is definitely mildly abrasive - several years of cleaning webbing and belt brasses on my CCF uniform definitely proved that.

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Ive used Turtlewax polish to good effect on a Hornby pug to relivery it. A bit messy though. If they have used the same printing method, it should work.

 

And if Im honest, my Dodo is rather let down by the printed nameplate. Seems a bit dull and unreadable. Must get a replacement done next time I need an etching.

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Ive used Turtlewax polish to good effect on a Hornby pug to relivery it. A bit messy though. If they have used the same printing method, it should work.

 

And if Im honest, my Dodo is rather let down by the printed nameplate. Seems a bit dull and unreadable. Must get a replacement done next time I need an etching.

 

Narrow planet sell complete Peckett sets - custom name and works plate - well worth it

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And if Im honest, my Dodo is rather let down by the printed nameplate. Seems a bit dull and unreadable. Must get a replacement done next time I need an etching.

 

I agree, both the Dodo and 11 "plates" are more like vinyls. Arguably they are no different from other printed name plates but I think they are more noticeably flat on such small locos - not that I'm complaining its a damn sight easier to erase an unwanted tampo printed name than a solid one.

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Buffers!

 

{no, not a call-to-arms for RM webbers!!]

 

I may be wrong, but I am minded that the Hornby buffers might be a trifle small for industrial useage?

 

Can anybody suggest anything larger?  [And, where from?]

 

Aside from drawing pins, roofing tacks, etc?]

 

:)

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Oops.

 

attachicon.gifPecket_half.jpg

 

The replacement handrails need some adjustment as I couldn't find the right size drill bit.

 

Dabs of Microsol from a cotton bud and a blunt cocktail stick saw the numberplate vanish.

That photo has made up my mind. Looks like I'm getting one for the shunting plank. I like the detail on the backhead, but I'm not too sure about the lack of gauge glass protectors.

 

Ian

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Buffers!

 

{no, not a call-to-arms for RM webbers!!]

 

I may be wrong, but I am minded that the Hornby buffers might be a trifle small for industrial useage?

 

Can anybody suggest anything larger?  [And, where from?]

 

Aside from drawing pins, roofing tacks, etc?]

 

:)

 

A lot of industrial users found it easier to bolt a larger diameter of steel plate onto the standard buffer head. A couple of Locomotives I have known have had this modification. It usually manifests itself with 4 bolt holes in the existing buffer head.

 

Ian

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What did you use for the tarp at the rear?

 

 

Very high-tech! I printed a suitable texture (http://www.mb3d.co.uk/mb3d/Plastic_Seamless_and_Tileable_High_Res_Textures_files/Plastic_Floor_01_UV_M_CM_1.jpg) on plain copy paper, crumpled it up to soften it and rolled into a tight roll and glued to the cab roof with a couple of straps cut from the same print.

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Oh no! What have I done?

 

attachicon.gifPeckettMedalling-025-Sm.jpg

 

Dunno if it's any help to anyone.

 

P

That's very helpful - my MSC Peckett has a slightly wonky chimney. How did you get the chimney off?

Also it looks like various modifications can be made fairly easily. I wonder how much work would be involved in a conversion to Peckett R4 "Rokeby"...

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