daltonparva Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 £001 any good? Do you want free postage with that? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomp Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Do you want free postage with that? Yes please! And as a fancy offshore resident, I'd like VAT taken off as well Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted January 19, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 19, 2017 On the LMS power classifications were reserved for revenue earning locomotives and started at 1 F or P. The 3F Jinty was an anomaly because it was at the same time a shunter and a revenue earning loco. On BR there were revenue earning locos from the SR which had the power of many dock shunters which created a further anomaly. The solution was to start the classification system at 0 and include all but a few really exceptional engines which were considered to be unclassified. Regards That's a distinction I've never come across before. Does this mean that a 2P standing as station pilot at the west end of Birmingham New St would be non-revenue earning and hence not classed 2P while shunting the fish sidings but revenue earning as soon as coupled up in front of a Jubilee to double-head a Bristol express? Was this an accounting distinction? I'm afraid this sounds unlikely to me - I look forward to clarification! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold highpeakman Posted January 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 19, 2017 Has anyone else had a problem with removal of the front coupling prior to body removal? I started by very gently easing a flat screwdriver under the coupling - actually the socket, having removed the coupling itself from the socket. I just could not shift the socket upwards at all. It then bent upwards where the thin flexible bit is. Next I tried gently grasping that bit with pliers and gently pulled. That achieved more damage. Eventually the socket has broken just leaving the wedge part in the body of the loco and, at present i can't shift it at all. I noted something shiny at the edges as if glue had been used - surely not?! I really have been careful and I am not inexperienced in working on models.The coupling is easily replaced but I am still trying to figure out how to prise the final bit out as it seems to be stuck fast. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted January 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 19, 2017 Has anyone else had a problem with removal of the front coupling prior to body removal? I started by very gently easing a flat screwdriver under the coupling - actually the socket, having removed the coupling itself from the socket. I just could not shift the socket upwards at all. It then bent upwards where the thin flexible bit is. Next I tried gently grasping that bit with pliers and gently pulled. That achieved more damage. Eventually the socket has broken just leaving the wedge part in the body of the loco and, at present i can't shift it at all. I noted something shiny at the edges as if glue had been used - surely not?! I really have been careful and I am not inexperienced in working on models.The coupling is easily replaced but I am still trying to figure out how to prise the final bit out as it seems to be stuck fast. My Dodo coupling was very tight but did move when I used a blunt blade under it. No signs of any glue. Roy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted January 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) Has anyone else had a problem with removal of the front coupling prior to body removal? I started by very gently easing a flat screwdriver under the coupling - actually the socket, having removed the coupling itself from the socket. I just could not shift the socket upwards at all. It then bent upwards where the thin flexible bit is. Next I tried gently grasping that bit with pliers and gently pulled. That achieved more damage. Eventually the socket has broken just leaving the wedge part in the body of the loco and, at present i can't shift it at all. I noted something shiny at the edges as if glue had been used - surely not?! I really have been careful and I am not inexperienced in working on models.The coupling is easily replaced but I am still trying to figure out how to prise the final bit out as it seems to be stuck fast. I'd be inclined to drill a small hole, about 1.5mm, into the triangular bit. You know the size of the part so you won't go too deep. Then insert a small self tapper and pull. If that doesn't do it, work away at the remains with a pointed scalpel blade until you reach the sides of the housing. This seems a bit odd - mine came out with very little trouble - maybe the pocket in yours has a bit of flash that required it to be fitted with more-than-usual force. John Edited January 19, 2017 by Dunsignalling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold highpeakman Posted January 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 19, 2017 I'd be inclined to drill a small hole, about 1.5mm, into the triangular bit. You know the size of the part so you won't go too deep. Then insert a small self tapper and pull. If that doesn't do it, work away at the remains with a pointed scalpel blade until you reach the sides of the housing. This seems a bit odd - mine came out with very little trouble - maybe the pocket in yours has a bit of flash that required it to be fitted with more-than-usual force. John Thanks for the suggestion although I am already well on the way to cutting away with a scalpel. I have tried pushing a sharp pair of tweezers into it and attempting to prise it up but cannot move it. I cannot get a screwdriver under it to prise upwards either. I am being very careful because I have to hold the loco and am I am being careful not to squeeze it too tight and causing damage to the rods, pistons,etc. I have never had a coupling fitted this tightly before, it is rock solid! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
happyChappy Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 I have a Hornby Sentinel diesel that originally had a very tightly fitted coupling pocket. The reason was that it had been fitted upside down so that the chamfered part of the rearward 'vee' was fitted facing downwards with the non-chamfered face forced into the socket on the loco chassis. To fit the pocket upside down probably means excessive force will be required just as 'Dunsignalling' suggests above. I was lucky and managed to prise it out using a very thin-bladed jewellers screwdriver but it was very tight and the pocket was a complete write-off. I do sympathise with you holding the loco as I too had to remove the body from my Peckett, (pickup contacts needed tweaking), and my heart was in my mouth about damaging any of the very fine detail - especially that whistle. I'm thinking of making a suitable cradle so that the loco can be safely held upside down without damage. Hope you succeed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chameleon Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 I liked the video of the locos at the Burntisland aluminium works. Would any of the current peckett models match either of the locos in that video? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Has anyone else had a problem with removal of the front coupling prior to body removal? I have the opposite problem, I took mine apart to put a chip in and now can't get the pocket to stay on!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold highpeakman Posted January 20, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 20, 2017 I have a Hornby Sentinel diesel that originally had a very tightly fitted coupling pocket. The reason was that it had been fitted upside down so that the chamfered part of the rearward 'vee' was fitted facing downwards with the non-chamfered face forced into the socket on the loco chassis. To fit the pocket upside down probably means excessive force will be required just as 'Dunsignalling' suggests above. I was lucky and managed to prise it out using a very thin-bladed jewellers screwdriver but it was very tight and the pocket was a complete write-off. I do sympathise with you holding the loco as I too had to remove the body from my Peckett, (pickup contacts needed tweaking), and my heart was in my mouth about damaging any of the very fine detail - especially that whistle. I'm thinking of making a suitable cradle so that the loco can be safely held upside down without damage. Hope you succeed. I have also had the "too loose" problem on another loco. I am using the Peco cradle but even then it is difficult to hold the loco firmly while trying to lever or lift out the coupling. The "wedge" is now so damaged that it will be difficult to do anymore than cut it out to I put it to one side for a few hours using my "keep calm, take your time and think" policy! It' so frustrating as I want to fit a decoder and get it running on the layout and I did not expect to fall the first hurdle in the process! I know I can still take the body off and fix the coupling later but I like to sort problems as they appear. With such a simple, but difficult problem to solve, in the first few minutes I got a bit wary wondering what might be lurking under the bonnet for me yesterday! Hey Ho. All part of the fun of railway modelling! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dublodad Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 It is my understanding that The Berkshire Dolls House and Model Company of Twyford have a few of each of "Dodo" and "MSC 11"in stock !!!!! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted January 20, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 20, 2017 I have the opposite problem, I took mine apart to put a chip in and now can't get the pocket to stay on!! Try a drop of Copydex, it should provide sufficient hold but still be easy to release when you want to. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 I liked the video of the locos at the Burntisland aluminium works. Would any of the current peckett models match either of the locos in that video? Both their Pecketts were M5s (10 x 15 cylinders, 2' 9" wheels and 5ft wb) which are a bit smaller than W4s (14 x 20 cyls, 3' 2" wheels on 5ft 6in wb) but I wouldn't criticise you for using a W4. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevor7598 Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) I have also had the "too loose" problem on another loco. I am using the Peco cradle but even then it is difficult to hold the loco firmly while trying to lever or lift out the coupling. The "wedge" is now so damaged that it will be difficult to do anymore than cut it out to I put it to one side for a few hours using my "keep calm, take your time and think" policy! It' so frustrating as I want to fit a decoder and get it running on the layout and I did not expect to fall the first hurdle in the process! I know I can still take the body off and fix the coupling later but I like to sort problems as they appear. With such a simple, but difficult problem to solve, in the first few minutes I got a bit wary wondering what might be lurking under the bonnet for me yesterday! Hey Ho. All part of the fun of railway modelling! Here's a nice cheap cradle. Made from polystyrene blocks left over from the packaging around my TV set. This material is often used by manufacturers of electrical goods , it is also soft and kind to that fine detail. Assemble using 2 pack epoxy as liquid glues will melt it. This one has lasted for about three years so far. Edited January 20, 2017 by trevor7598 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDJR7F88 Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) My MSC Peckett's first outing on Compton Quay, during the Weston-Super-Mare Model Train Show. Must say she really looks the part on the Quayside, especially along side the MSC Sentinel too! Here's a quick video featuring her, plus a number of other visitors to the layout too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ol2sLx4sV80 Edited January 20, 2017 by SDJR7F88 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) I liked the video of the locos at the Burntisland aluminium works. Would any of the current peckett models match either of the locos in that video? Both their Pecketts were M5s (10 x 15 cylinders, 2' 9" wheels and 5ft wb) which are a bit smaller than W4s (14 x 20 cyls, 3' 2" wheels on 5ft 6in wb) but I wouldn't criticise you for using a W4. There were a couple of good colour photies in Steam Days for November 2009, which also highlight a couple of differences besides the size - nothing insuperable but you need to be aware, and there is a bit of a bummer on the livery. As to the form, you need the big brass dome and that curious lubricator gubbins on the lum, which points to either Dodo or Huntley and Palmers, although the original safety valves had been replaced, but whatever you go for will need the cab altering per the video - it looks like they were originally backless, but then had a locally fabricated rear welded on angled out to the bottom to accommodate the brake standard. Then you need to infill the forward part of the cab with wriggly tin sheeting - which appears to be unpainted. Looking at the photies it doesn't appear that either of them had the lower handrail on the saddle tank. Moving on to livery the two photies show them to be slightly different, but I think that reflects their probably being taken at different dates - two different photographers are credited. No.1 [1376 of 1915] appears to be newly repainted in an unlined bright green with red buffer beams and red edge to the running plate, cylinders are also green but the rods aren't painted, while the dome as mentioned is polished brass and the lum is black with a copper [not brass] cap. No.2 [1579 of 1921] is intriguing because apart from the brass dome and red-edged running plate it has the same shade of green and same lining as the MSC model, which makes me think that during or after WWI the off-the-shelf livery changed to that rather than the light leaf green displayed by Dodo. Both the Culter Mill Pecketts were darkish green. Both locos had name plates on the saddle tank. The older loco simply had BAC Ltd while the newer one had the addition of No2 Edited January 21, 2017 by Caledonian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davknigh Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 A couple of points of interest can be found in this clip from YouTube First off is the location of the whistle which has been moved to the dome from the cab roof thus making it harder to knock off. Second is the matter of sound. apart from the whoosh of steam and the toot of the whistle, there's not much to be heard! Cheers, David 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Ah that takes me back. Silent running is one of the strongest memories I have of the Culter Mill puggy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 A bit off topic but relevant. You would be surprised at the amount of people who thought the Sentinel steam locomotive we had was a diesel until it whistled. Silent as a mouse most of the time. It made a hell of a lot of noise moving a couple of carriages though. Jason 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post SDJR7F88 Posted January 26, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted January 26, 2017 Some pictures of No.11 on my dockside micro exhibition layout 'Compton Quay'. She really does look the part, especially along side MSC Sentinel DH.16. 23 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hamlin Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 My Peckett started running a little hesitantly on my rolling road during running in. On closer inspection I found a good smear of lubricant on the inside of the driving wheel on the driven axle. With this removed with a cotton bud, perfect running! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Interesting note on the Hornby engine shed blog that the next issue has already sold out/no more pre orders on the Hornby web site. I really do think they need to look at a further run this year! I do wonder if it is the sell out nature or the eBay sellers chasing stock and a quick buck or modellers really have taken to them? Any ways looks like pre orders will be the only way to get one this year. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted January 27, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 27, 2017 Some pictures of No.11 on my dockside micro exhibition layout 'Compton Quay'. She really does look the part, especially along side MSC Sentinel DH.16. I find running a brick / orange-ish-red felt pen up the fold lines of Metcalfe brick buildings does wonders for their appearance. Lovely setts - how done? (Apologies for going off-Peckett again.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Here's a short video of my custom sound-fitted Hornby Peckett. Step by step guide in Hornby Magazine, Issue 117. Kind regards, Paul 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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