Sutton's Locomotive Works class 24

[CovDriver]

Just a quick one I've finally put my 24081 on the track and had a quick run whilst SWMBO is out and I've noticed that in the cab at the radiator fan end the drivers desk appears to missing is this supposed to be the case ?

 

Cheers

 

Colin

[Gopher]

I can only reiterate all the positive comments about this new loco.  Mine arrived on Friday.  The detail, and running qualities are excellent, and the sound project is the best I have heard on any DCC sound loco.  I have locos with sound decoders from the majority of the main U.K suppliers, in my opinion Paul's sound project in the new class 24 is in a different league.

 

One question.  Has anyone taken the body off to install a driver figure, and if so how did you do this ?  There are two screws under each of the bogies,  I removed these - but this did not seem to loosen the body.  I was loath to apply any pressure to remove the body, and possibly damage a beautiful model.       

[Clive Mortimore]

Just a quick one I've finally put my 24081 on the track and had a quick run whilst SWMBO is out and I've noticed that in the cab at the radiator fan end the drivers desk appears to missing is this supposed to be the case ?

 

Cheers

 

Colin

Hi Colin

 

It don't sound right. Give Phil and Jamie a call.

[Nick G]

 

 

One question.  Has anyone taken the body off to install a driver figure, and if so how did you do this ?  There are two screws under each of the bogies,  I removed these - but this did not seem to loosen the body.  

 

 

You don't need to remove any screws to remove the body. It is similar to a Heljan 47 in that the body is held on by 4 clips. You need to carefully prise the body away from the chassis near the cab doors and the body will just lift off. There is a art to it but once you get the knack is easy. 

[pauliebanger]

I can only reiterate all the positive comments about this new loco.  Mine arrived on Friday.  The detail, and running qualities are excellent, and the sound project is the best I have heard on any DCC sound loco.  I have locos with sound decoders from the majority of the main U.K suppliers, in my opinion Paul's sound project in the new class 24 is in a different league.

 

One question.  Has anyone taken the body off to install a driver figure, and if so how did you do this ?  There are two screws under each of the bogies,  I removed these - but this did not seem to loosen the body.  I was loath to apply any pressure to remove the body, and possibly damage a beautiful model.       

 

Hi Gopher,

 

Thank you for the positive feedback on the Class 24 sound project, it's good to know that my work is appreciated and that it gives such pleasure.  

 

Here's a tip when removing the body. There are a lot of delecate detailing parts which is what makes these such outstanding models and why you would prefer to keep them all in place.

 

The body does indeed lift off once retaining clips have been released by easing out the lower edge of the body. If you have a valenced version, you may find it easier to remove them before tackling the main body.

 

Leave the model attached or reattach it to the plinth with the two screws fitted for transportation. This will shield the vulnerable details whilst you work and provide a secure 'handle' to make the removal simpler.

 

For those wish to fit a driver, the same process is used, but you will then find that the cab is 'open' giving very easy access to fit a driver/ second man. (or even a Driver's Desk if you need to!).

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

Edited January 16, 2016 by pauliebanger

[pauliebanger]

Just a quick one I've finally put my 24081 on the track and had a quick run whilst SWMBO is out and I've noticed that in the cab at the radiator fan end the drivers desk appears to missing is this supposed to be the case ?

 

Cheers

 

Colin

 

Colin,

 

Definitely not. A quick call or an email to Jamie or Philip will get this sorted for you in double quick time.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[pauliebanger]

 It is similar to a Heljan 47 in that the body is held on by 4 clips.

 

Lol.

 

And that is where any similarity ends, my friend.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[Nick G]

 

 

And that is where any similarity ends, my friend.

 

 

 

I am quite aware of that!  

[pauliebanger]

I can only echo all the comments regarding this loco now I have mine.  The sound is great, well done Paul, but the running abilities really surprised me.  Bear in mind my loco stud is mostly high-end US diesels with twin flywheel drives and can motors, the very reason I went to US models 20 years ago and they run beautifully.  The 24 is better....quieter (I cannot hear ANY motor/drive sound with the sound on, not tried it silent yet), smoother, perfect starts and stopping, I cannot fault one iota of it's running.  Oddly it won't recognise on SPROG/Decoder pro, not sure why yet, so I haven't been able to fiddle with any CV's yet, but as it comes it is very well set up.  I might tweak the sound a smidge for my own tastes, but it is very nice to have a loco out of the box that has been thoughtfully configured.

 

Full marks to all concerned.  Now how the hell am I going to get the guts to weather it!  It needs a SYP too.  It may have to wait......

 

 

Thank you for your appreciation.

 

This is a ZIMO decoder. You shouldn't be surprised it runs so well. Lol

 

There is probably no problem with the Sprog part of your arrangement but DecoderPro may not have the profile installed yet.

 

If you must tinker with CVs, try profiles for MX645.

 

You can always get back to square one with CV8 = 8.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[New Haven Neil]

I have a Zimo decoder in a Korean Brass diesel with a Canon motor and big flywheels, Paul - still not as good as the 24! 

 

I find the there is just a little too much rev-up before moving off on the standard setup for my personal taste, but haven't tried light engine mode yet - it was too *&^%$£ cold in the garage!  Full marks though, for a great sound project, well installed. I still don't understand why decoder pro didn't see anything though, usually it tries to indicate the nearest it can find.   Probably my inability, not it's, though!!!   I'm an engine engineer, (or at least I was), not a computer person.  I spent a lot of time as a teenager watching 24's on the Tyne Dock iron ore trains, their sound is deep in my psyche - I know how right your installation sounds.  How the hell am I going to afford another....looks like those Yank diesels days might be numbered!

[tractor_37260]

I have a Zimo decoder in a Korean Brass diesel with a Canon motor and big flywheels, Paul - still not as good as the 24! 

 

I find the there is just a little too much rev-up before moving off on the standard setup for my personal taste, but haven't tried light engine mode yet - it was too *&^%$£ cold in the garage!  Full marks though, for a great sound project, well installed. I still don't understand why decoder pro didn't see anything though, usually it tries to indicate the nearest it can find.   Probably my inability, not it's, though!!!   I'm an engine engineer, (or at least I was), not a computer person.  I spent a lot of time as a teenager watching 24's on the Tyne Dock iron ore trains, their sound is deep in my psyche - I know how right your installation sounds.  How the hell am I going to afford another....looks like those Yank diesels days might be numbered!

To get around the perhaps "slightly" too much rev up before moving off

Using a Lenz LH100

I set F7 and F5 then use 16/128 SS

Once the loco just starts moving quickly switch F 5 OFF increasing the SS to 32/128 at the same time I find works really well.

[Andrew F]

My Digidrive 26 revs up too much for shunting (moves to second notch whilst moving off). Is there a fix for this?

[pauliebanger]

My Digidrive 26 revs up too much for shunting (moves to second notch whilst moving off). Is there a fix for this?

 

Andrew,

 

F6 should hold the engine in idle on all my diesel sound projects, so you could use this when pottering (engage F6 before opening the throttle. If you need a bit of 'power' release F6 very briefly then re-engage it quickly.

 

 

For any more detail suggstions, I would need to know the version of the soundproject loaded (should be at the top of the User Notes supplied with your decoder) and the decoder software version. You can find this from the values in CV7 for the main version and CV65 for the sub-version .

 

This will reveal which features are available on your decoder without reblowing it.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

Edited January 16, 2016 by pauliebanger

[tractor_37260]

My Digidrive 26 revs up too much for shunting (moves to second notch whilst moving off). Is there a fix

for this?[/quote

 

A reblow to ActiveDrive ! should then drive more like the new SLW 24

[New Haven Neil]

To get around the perhaps "slightly" too much rev up before moving off

Using a Lenz LH100

I set F7 and F5 then use 16/128 SS

Once the loco just starts moving quickly switch F 5 OFF increasing the SS to 32/128 at the same time I find works really well.

 

I'm on LH90 - I'll have a good play when I un-bury the layout from it's winter slumbers!  To bloody cold down there at the moment.

[Norm81]

You don't need to remove any screws to remove the body. It is similar to a Heljan 47 in that the body is held on by 4 clips. You need to carefully prise the body away from the chassis near the cab doors and the body will just lift off. There is a art to it but once you get the knack is easy.

 

The clips are nearer the inner end of each bogie than the cab doors, if you're wanting to do what I did and slip card down to free the clips. Paul's idea of leaving it screwed to the plinth is a good one as mine was a right pain to wiggle the body slowly off with little to hold onto! If only I'd read this thread first! Need to decide whether I populate one cab or two, leaning towards only the opposite end to the kadee.

 

Speaking of which, not checked it with the height gauge but a Kadee No. 18 seems to sit correct to the buffer faces in the nem pocket. Have removed the innermost two items of bufferbeam detail, but left the rest as I don't have sharp curves.

 

Lovely model and another good sound project from Paul.

[Gopher]

Hi Gopher,

 

Thank you for the positive feedback on the Class 24 sound project, it's good to know that my work is appreciated and that it gives such pleasure.  

 

Here's a tip when removing the body. There are a lot of delecate detailing parts which is what makes these such outstanding models and why you would prefer to keep them all in place.

 

The body does indeed lift off once retaining clips have been released by easing out the lower edge of the body. If you have a valenced version, you may find it easier to remove them before tackling the main body.

 

Leave the model attached or reattach it to the plinth with the two screws fitted for transportation. This will shield the vulnerable details whilst you work and provide a secure 'handle' to make the removal simpler.

 

For those wish to fit a driver, the same process is used, but you will then find that the cab is 'open' giving very easy access to fit a driver/ second man. (or even a Driver's Desk if you need to!).

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

Thanks for the tip Paul, and best of luck with your future sound projects. 

 

Kind Regards

 

Gopher

[Gopher]

You don't need to remove any screws to remove the body. It is similar to a Heljan 47 in that the body is held on by 4 clips. You need to carefully prise the body away from the chassis near the cab doors and the body will just lift off. There is a art to it but once you get the knack is easy. 

Thanks for the advice Holland Park.  I was clearly tackling this in the wrong way.  

 

Gopher 

[New Haven Neil]

Chuggitychuggittychuggity.....

 

[CloggyDog]

One question.  Has anyone taken the body off to install a driver figure, and if so how did you do this ?  There are two screws under each of the bogies,  I removed these - but this did not seem to loosen the body.  I was loath to apply any pressure to remove the body, and possibly damage a beautiful model.       

 

There are 8 small screws, 4 at each end. The outermost pairs hold the bufferbeam in place, the innermost hold the close coupling mech in place via a metal strip.

 

As aleady noted, the body is clipped in place. The suggestion to use the display plinth is recommended!

[gridwatcher]

The SDEG 'stud' of 4 blue ones arrived today for use on Airthrey Park/Hazelbank etc etc..... what can I say? Blown away. "Game changer" isn't something I would say lightly. The sound is epic, well done Paul but it is the whole experience: post/packing/packaging/tin/loco quality/finish/attention etc that leaves others in their wake. There have been some tasty UK releases before Dapol Western, Hornby 60 etc but all seem to trip up somewhere. Very happy boys indeed. Come and see the first show running on Hazelbank at Doncaster BRM Festival in mid Feb, where a certain Mr B Jones will be allowed to thrash a midland region diesel if he behaves!?!

[kevpeo]

Four, that's a little greedy is it not Grid!!!!!!

 

Here is my single one ready for traffic at last -

 

 

Mods include moving the discs to the middle of the ex-connecting doors, al-la Glasgow works and fabricating a 'temporary' water tank, until SLW release some spares, plus straightening and fixing into place the bogie pipe work, and removing half of the small access hatch, as per the photo I was working to. Plus a coat of grime of course! Kev.

[SHMD]

Four, that's a little greedy is it not Grid!!!!!!

 

Here is my single one ready for traffic at last -

 

24 073.JPG

 

Mods include moving the discs to the middle of the ex-connecting doors, al-la Glasgow works and fabricating a 'temporary' water tank, until SLW release some spares, plus straightening and fixing into place the bogie pipe work, and removing half of the small access hatch, as per the photo I was working to. Plus a coat of grime of course! Kev.

 

Fantastic.

How much to do all that to mine?

 

 

Kev.

(only joking...)

[pauliebanger]

The SDEG 'stud' of 4 blue ones arrived today for use on Airthrey Park/Hazelbank etc etc..... what can I say? Blown away. "Game changer" isn't something I would say lightly. The sound is epic, well done Paul but it is the whole experience: post/packing/packaging/tin/loco quality/finish/attention etc that leaves others in their wake. There have been some tasty UK releases before Dapol Western, Hornby 60 etc but all seem to trip up somewhere. Very happy boys indeed. Come and see the first show running on Hazelbank at Doncaster BRM Festival in mid Feb, where a certain Mr B Jones will be allowed to thrash a midland region diesel if he behaves!?!

 

I'll be assisting Ian to operate Four Gig at Doncaster, so I'll pay you a surprise visit to check you are running my babies correctly. Lol

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

[gridwatcher]

Four, that's a little greedy is it not Grid!!!!!!

 

Here is my single one ready for traffic at last -

 

24 073.JPG

 

Mods include moving the discs to the middle of the ex-connecting doors, al-la Glasgow works and fabricating a 'temporary' water tank, until SLW release some spares, plus straightening and fixing into place the bogie pipe work, and removing half of the small access hatch, as per the photo I was working to. Plus a coat of grime of course! Kev.

 

Four, that's a little greedy is it not Grid!!!!!!

 

Here is my single one ready for traffic at last -

 

24 073.JPG

 

Mods include moving the discs to the middle of the ex-connecting doors, al-la Glasgow works and fabricating a 'temporary' water tank, until SLW release some spares, plus straightening and fixing into place the bogie pipe work, and removing half of the small access hatch, as per the photo I was working to. Plus a coat of grime of course! Kev.

Looks lovely too!!