N15class Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 What a hansom beastie. would like to see this one in painted form. I was sorting out and found a set of drawings for the LN. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 18, 2014 Author Share Posted May 18, 2014 Hi Peter. Sadly, it is very unlikely I will get to see her painted in her livery (As far as I know, she will be in black BR). If Geoff has her on his stand at Telford, then I will see it there and take photos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Thats a shame, they look so good in dark olive and white lining. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Just a few photos of the LN with final assembly completed and read for the off. The smoke deflectors are loosely attached until final painting is completed. Next on the WB is 2-6-4T L1. 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 Very nice. I want one but would be so out of place in the west country. I think the look better with the smoke deflectors, but they were like that just a very short time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 That's really nice Ken, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Thanks guys. I have warmed to the Southern with this handsome looking loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Hi all. Started on the Carriage & Wagon LNER 2-6-4T L1 kit. (A big difference from the MOK kit!) First off has been poor fit of etches, the axle holes did not match the coupling rods making for a lot of tight spots. The valances are not long enough for the footplate. No idea where the motion support castings are meant to fit, so I hope I have that part right. The slide bar casting have no hope of fitting where intended, I will have to work on that. On a plus note, the cylinders fitted into the slots OK and the cylinder wrappers fitted well. The valve gear does have a number of clearance issues, but that should be not too bad to sort out. A great start Hope the body assembly fares better. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 From the ones from that brand I have made they are all hard work. Frames are looking good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 Hi. Starting work on the body this morning, After placing the part built footplate on the chassis, I quickly discovered the valences are not at fault, it's the rear running plate that's too long. So a very quick and easy fix. Now onwards and upwards. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 (edited) What a difficult build so far. There is so little that actually fits. The Cab front & rear too short on height. Cab front, rear & bunker are different widths. The bunker top too long. Cab door no where near the etched holes for handrails. The motion eccentric arm fouls the footplate (as per prototype) but on the model no allowance for that. So holes have to be cut. These do have a cover in the tank recess though. The bunker sides are too long. that is as far as I've got. So tomorrow will see what else needs to be sorted. The body fixing holes did not mate up with the chassis holes, so drilling new ones solved that. Thankfully all can be solved with little problem attached. just takes so much time It to adjust everything. The boiler will be very interesting to see how that progresses. I still have to solve an issue with the eccentric arms fouling the slide bars. I have a couple of ideas but have to work out the best way. At least it gives one a chance to do some problem solving. Edited May 27, 2014 by jazz 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 It had better be worth all that extra stress. Many might well have just cried foul and given up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 It makes you wonder if it is quicker to scratch build.. The last one I did a west country I had all sorts of similar issues too. All looking good even if taking a while. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 You may be right Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Thanks for the heads up Ken, I'll steer clear of that one!! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 Hi Sandy. It's like a lot of kits that are not well designed, if you like the prototype and it's the only one available as a kit, it's worth a bash for experienced builders. Remembering the original Gateneal offerings, they left a great deal of ingenuity to the builder to make a decent model. But could be done with patience. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 The last one I did a west country I had all sorts of similar issues too. Does anybody do a decent West Country without issues in any scale? Even the DJH one must be their worst kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Does anybody do a decent West Country without issues in any scale? Even the DJH one must be their worst kit. Is the Finney kit that bad? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Does anybody do a decent West Country without issues in any scale? Even the DJH one must be their worst kit. I thought they only did rebuilds, thought the Finney one was good? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 (edited) The finney Light pacific is great but it's only in original form not rebuilt. The David andrews one looks very nice fred lewis is building 3 at the moment there's pictures on his web site http://welshwizardlocoworks.co.uk Edited May 28, 2014 by steve fay Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 (edited) OK. Getting back to the L1. The kit has redeemed itself today. The body is going together well. It was a very pleasant surprise to find the boiler unit a perfect fit. The slots in the boiler sides slid perfectly over the tank fronts for a very neat look. The bunker also ended up being nice to build. The over length sides and top were not an issue at all. I assembled the bunker straight from the fret and then filed off the excess material. This gave nice sharp corners. So all in all as long as you are aware the cab front & rear needs to be soldered in place just off the floor all will be well. You could do what I did and just add a couple of narrow offcuts from the frets to the tops. This would work well if you are having the roof removable. The differing sizes I mentioned are very small and just needs a touch up with a file on the slightly wider ones. The chassis clearances are no worse than majority of other kits with outside valve gear, just be aware to watch for enough clearance. Mainly the leading axle should have no side play and the crank pins need to be as thin as possible. (I place the crank pin washer on first. Then reversed the pin reversed the bush and soldered the face directly to the crank pin.) I will shave off .75mm from the slide bar face at the very, that will then clear the swing of the radius rod. Finally, I have heard that the current L1 kit has been updated since the one I'm building was sold. So, very little left to do now, then it's down to the detailing. Edited May 28, 2014 by jazz 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 That is good to know, that the latest offerings have been updated. I know a lot of people knock the old Gateneal/Megga kits but I always found them interesting to build because I approached them in that frame of mind. It was quite enjoyable finding bits that needed adjustment or rebuilding as it helped to improve my skills as a builder. Old prototypes with 'Crew' front ends and cylinders integral with the smoke box, could keep you happily occupied for hours making new smoke box wrappers! Ah! happy days. Sandy PS the L1 is now looking the part! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 29, 2014 Author Share Posted May 29, 2014 That has always been my view too Sandy. I had some real fun making good those kits. The L1 is much better than those old kits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 I feel it is this instant world we live in now. Many do not want to work on a model it seems to me to be open the box solder it together if anything needs adjusting the whole kit is rubished. I too do not mind adding my own work to a kit. At the end of the day you have something that is unique. I have bought quite a few cheap wrecks from a well known site. All so far have been rebuilt with great success I do believe. This is looking better every day. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 Getting on very well with L1 now. I hope to have it ready for priming over the w/end. All the castings are nicely cast. I decided to cut the tops off the expansion crank to clear the footplate (on the prototype they poke through the footplate) on the model the cast cover is a solid casting and because it's impossible to see the tops of the expansion links, cutting them short is perfectly OK. I like the cast back head, all the detail is cast on and looks very good, saving a lot of build time. The red shadow on the tank sides is just from my cherry red sweater, not the model overheating 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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