N15class Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Top notch as usual Ken. These big tanks always seem to have a lot of presence, no matter which breed they are. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Boucher Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Love it! Those are the engines which got me interested in British Prototype to begin with, via some Model Engineer's magazines from the 50s and 60s my father acquired when I was a teen. First one I picked up was the beginning of building a 3.5" gauge version, and I loved the lines and proportions of the engine.would love to get my hands on one of those kits. David Andrews announced he was going to do them, but that seems to be on hold right now... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 What`s next Ken. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 Meteor Models LNER/BR C12 4-4-2T 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 A nice looking job Ken, something along these lines is to my mind is the sort of loco that the R.T.R. guys should be looking at, not all of the big locos first, OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 Getting on now with the C12. So far, so good. (It's nice to be building what seems to be a simple uncomplicated job, fingers crossed) The chassis has gone together with no issues. Ti has been designed to have the motor on the leading driver, so I've sprung the rear driver for downward movement only. The trailing axle is sprung for upwards by 1.5mm and downwards be 0.75mm. So that should give a nice ride on the track. I will be adding lead weights to balance it up as well as make her a bit heavier as she is quite a light model. Very nice slots and tabs the line up accurately and need no cleaning out. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 Hi all. Update on Slater's rusty wheels. I received a nice reply from David White (Slater's) apologising for the trouble this caused. He has informed me that they are now going to dip wheels in light oil before sealing them in the packages. That should resolve the problem and thank you to Slater's. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 Moving forward with the C12. So far, so good, I,m impressed with the kit. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 Progress made today. The body is going well. You have to be very careful getting the bends spot on. I had to have a couple of goes to them right. The side tanks have been filled with lead weigh right between the drivers. The issue so far is the cab roof is designed to be a complete unit. This is going to give some head scratching if I need to make it removable. It will depend on the outcome when I make and install the boiler unit tomorrow. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 (edited) Hi all. Update on Slater's rusty wheels. I received a nice reply from David White (Slater's) apologising for the trouble this caused. He has informed me that they are now going to dip wheels in light oil before sealing them in the packages. That should resolve the problem and thank you to Slater's. Sorry to say but this could cause it's own problems in that the "plastic" wheel centres could absorb the oil and that could make it harder to get the paint to stick to that part of the wheels, it can be bad enough now at times. I clean the wheels in cellulose thinners then in meths to work as a degreaser, that works most of the time. I would like to be able to get hold of Trichloroethane as this is the best cleaner / degreaser that I have ever used. Maybe it would be better if Mr. White stopped using A) the cheapest mild steel he can get, or B] use a better quality cutting fluid. He will have to clean the steel rims before the wheel centres are injected on to them, but you can get cutting fluid that the temp. that the "plastic" is injected will remove it. So the fit should be OK. A number of years back I did mention to him about using fluteless tapping of his axles as this works very well on CNC M/Cs but looking at the swarf that comes out of the axle holes he is still using normal taps. Edited August 2, 2014 by ozzyo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymw Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 This is the degreaser I've used for the past few years http://cpc.farnell.com/ambersil/6130002500/amberklene-fe10-400ml/dp/SA01297?in_merch=Products%20From%20This%20Range Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Progress made today. The body is going well. You have to be very careful getting the bends spot on. I had to have a couple of goes to them right. The side tanks have been filled with lead weigh right between the drivers. The issue so far is the cab roof is designed to be a complete unit. This is going to give some head scratching if I need to make it removable. It will depend on the outcome when I make and install the boiler unit tomorrow. IMG_1992.jpg Hi Ken I made a Jinty roof like this removable by making the front tab slots in the tank top slightly wider on the inside of the cab, and adding a scrap of etch bottom of the tabs or a length of wire if the tabs are long enough, so it went into the slot slid forwards that held the front in place. The back I added another piece that sat over the coal space and was solder to the rear of the cab top. This was drill clearance for 12BA and holes in the top of the coal space tapped. That then held the rear in place which stopped the front coming out. Sorry to say but this could cause it's own problems in that the "plastic" wheel centres could absorb the oil and that could make it harder to get the paint to stick to that part of the wheels, it can be bad enough now at times. I clean the wheels in cellulose thinners then in meths to work as a degreaser, that works most of the time. I would like to be able to get hold of Trichloroethane as this is the best cleaner / degreaser that I have ever used. Maybe it would be better if Mr. White stopped using A) the cheapest mild steel he can get, or B] use a better quality cutting fluid. He will have to clean the steel rims before the wheel centres are injected on to them, but you can get cutting fluid that the temp. that the "plastic" is injected will remove it. So the fit should be OK. A number of years back I did mention to him about using fluteless tapping of his axles as this works very well on CNC M/Cs but looking at the swarf that comes out of the axle holes he is still using normal taps. Ozzyo I do not think you can get trichloroethylene any more I think it was band because it is a hydrocarbon and bad for the ozone layer. We used to use it in hot vapour cleaners for our clock case parts before stove enameling.. I agree nothing worked quite like it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendy1 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Hi Ken I made a Jinty roof like this removable by making the front tab slots in the tank top slightly wider on the inside of the cab, and adding a scrap of etch bottom of the tabs or a length of wire if the tabs are long enough, so it went into the slot slid forwards that held the front in place. The back I added another piece that sat over the coal space and was solder to the rear of the cab top. This was drill clearance for 12BA and holes in the top of the coal space tapped. That then held the rear in place which stopped the front coming out. Ozzyo I do not think you can get trichloroethylene any more I think it was band because it is a hydrocarbon and bad for the ozone layer. We used to use it in hot vapour cleaners for our clock case parts before stove enameling.. I agree nothing worked quite like it. Peter, Ozzyo a quick search of ebay in the UK shows that trichloroethylene is still available to buy as a degreaser - see item 221292856608 or just search for trichloroethylene (this is the same as trichloroethane) regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 (edited) trichloroethylene (this is the same as trichloroethane) :no: Quite different compounds with many different properties but some similarities - eg toxicity.. Trichloroethylene : Trichloroethane : Edited August 3, 2014 by Kenton Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendy1 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Peter, Ozzyo a quick search of ebay in the UK shows that trichloroethylene is still available to buy as a degreaser - see item 221292856608 or just search for trichloroethylene (this is the same as trichloroethane) regards Tony I just realised that I should not have said that trichloroethylene is the same as trichloroethane - they are different solvents. However the ebay item is for trichloroethylene which is used as a degreaser. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 (edited) Getting back to the C12. (BTW I use UPVC Frame Cleaner/restorer/degreaser on plastic, works extremely well) The smoke box assembly was a delight, all fitting very well. The inner wrapper was rolled and bent to shape, soldering all round the edges. After rounding off the edges from & rear the outer wrapper was solder on. Now for making the cab assembly removable. I soldered the trim over the the firebox the the cab front. Then cut a semi circle piece from scrap and soldered that below the trim making a snug fit for the firebox rear the push between them. The cab sits nicely in place and held firmly at the front. The rear of the cab is held in place with an 8BA bolt though an L bracket soldered to the cab rear. This will be hidden with coal after painting. Edited August 3, 2014 by jazz 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 (edited) An enjoyable day finishing the C12 build. (Just buffers/couplings & sand pipes to add.) Took a bit of time making the pipework along the valances using 40thou wire and brass toning for the corner angles. The securing brackets were fashioned from narrow thin strip. Another mod was adding the rivets to the smoke box door and hinges. The casting did not have them. I drilled a series of .75mm holes and made the rivets from .75 wire. A very tight push fit. Additional to the kit is the steam pipes from my scrap box. I have used a photo of loco 67397 for the build. Edited August 5, 2014 by jazz 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Nice looking engine Ken but what on earth is .." brass toning for the corner angles". Did you mean 'tubing' , or is this a technique I have not come across before?? Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Nice looking engine Ken but what on earth is .." brass toning for the corner angles". Did you mean 'tubing' , or is this a technique I have not come across before?? Regards Sandy I am really glad you asked that.............I was wondering the same! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 Hi, yes it was meant to say tubing. I have Apple spell check that completes a word for you. Mostly very good,BUT a pain at times as it completes completely the wrong word As It says in the thread, it's a GNR/LNER/BR C12 class. This model will be painted in BR livery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Computers! They can get you into trouble!!! Thanks Ken Computers! They can get you into trouble!!! Thanks Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 See what I mean!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvdlcs Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Hello. A quick question about the C12: in the pictures there appears to be a screw/bolt head between the two wheels on the front bogie. (How) is this intended to be disguised? I would have thought that it would be very visible in that position? Thank you for any forthcoming response, David. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 (edited) Right on Sandy. I have given the bogie bolt my usual treatment by thinning well down prior to painting. Barely noticeable from normal viewing angles, Not been a bad kit to build at all. Just a few minor modifications and additions. The components Edited August 7, 2014 by jazz 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Very nice Ken. So what beauty do we have coming up next? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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