Sandy Harper Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 That's a very solid looking machine with a dance hall for a cab!! Was there multiple layers of brass at the smokebox end? Nice one Ken. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 Sandy, the boiler is full length and has a smoke box wrapper and spacer bands. Yes, that is a very large cab compared to some tank locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 Not quite had time today to get completely finished. Just the buffers, drain cocks and lamp irons to fit. Then some clean up and prime. Hopefully a quiet day tomorrow and I can get to the WB I felt the nice white metal steps up the bunker rear would be a bit vulnerable to damage so spent half an hour making them out of 40 thou bras wire. These will now stand a fair bit of abuse. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 The L1 is ready for handing to the painter. It has not been as bad to build as I first thought at all. I think think it has turned out to be a very pleasing model. The first image shows the monster size motor I have squeezed in. This makes her a very powerful little loco. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 Very smart. You seem to build quicker than I can thing how to build. What is that monster of a motor? Not sure you would fit that in anything but a tank loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share Posted June 2, 2014 I don't know the make, it's one Geoff supplied for the build. I will ask him when next time we speak. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 (edited) Hi. Just spent a couple of days building this Gladiator NER Directors Saloon. An easy build to do and a pleasing little coach. Now for a quiet spell working on my HO layout until I meet up with Geoff in a couple of weeks or so. (I may just build one of my own kits though, perhaps a Kenscale North Staffs New L Class that I produced years ago) Edited June 5, 2014 by jazz 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 (edited) Hi all. I've been quiet of late due to a holiday and other trips out. Notwithstanding this nightmare of a build. A Medley kit of a LNER K4. I'm not going to bore y'all with a long list of problems but just show you the finished model. I' now embarking on a much better build, a Chowbent Stanier 2-6-4T. Bye the way. Anyone else experiencing the amount of deep rust on all the Slater's wheels. It's always the wheel next to the card backing on opening the packet. This has been a problem for for while and getting worse. It makes no difference who the supplier is either. (Slater's themselves or others. This wheel has just been removed from the packet. Edited July 20, 2014 by jazz 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Bye the way. Anyone else experiencing the amount of deep rust on all the Slater's wheels. It's always the wheel next to the card backing on opening the packet. This has been a problem for for while and getting worse. It makes no difference who the supplier is either. (Slater's themselves or others. This wheel has just been removed from the packet. Yes, I mentioned it on a topic a while back but those look particularly bad. Didn't Slaters have some flooding recently? perhaps it is a warehousing / storage problem. Many of the ones I get are of unknown date/origin being client supplied. Only recourse is RTS or remove rust/blacken them - the backs seem to worse than the flange - thankfully. The card has perforations to allow it to breathe the vacuum sealed poly film over the front. Either it is not breathing or letting moisture in. Or simply the quality of metal has changed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 This wheel has just been removed from the packet. IMG_1913.jpg That needs returning! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 I would be returning wheels on every build. The last few months has had every wheel set with rust of varying degrees. (This batch is particularly bad). I do not think it's due to any flooding as the card is in perfect condition. I am able to clean and polish them up but cannot do anything about the pitting. I will be talking to Slater's in Telford about this problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 As Slater's do use steel for the wheel rims I would expect a bit of "rust" on the surface but not anything like this. To end up with rust like this in a vacuum (that is how Slater's pack the wheels) you have to have some water in contact with the steel. Or it could be that Slater's are using a water based cutting fluid and not washing it off correctly? But to make a try media wheel you would have to clean all of the parts, to remove any of the cutting fluid before all of the parts are assembled together Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I Ken I have also experienced the minor surface rust, which comes off fairly easily, but your photo shows a different ball game. Slaters need to know about it so that they can take steps to eradicate the problem. Nice coach by the way. Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 'Morning all. I have sent an email with photo of the rusted wheel. I am hoping Slater's can find how the wheels are becoming so rusted prior to purchase. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 Now on with the Chowbent offering. The chassis is a straightforward conventional design that has gone together well. The only small modification will be moving the cylinder assembly towards the back 2mm as they are too far forward when checking against the chassis with the wheels in place. (that is much easier that making the connecting rods 2mm longer ) 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Hi Ken, I have had some badly pitted wheels that I took back to Mr White in person at last years Bristol show, when I showed him the wheels his reply was " haven't you got any wire wool ? ). Even after showing him how deep the pitting was he was still very reluctant to change them, so much so we had a silent stand off for a minute or two, in fact it left a bad taste in my mouth for the rest of the day. So I hope when you meet him , that he's in a better mood. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian@stenochs Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Hi. I too have had wheels that bad. I think it may be that the card backing is not acid free rather than damp storage. I'm sure Slaters will replace them but as I always re-profile my wheels on tbe lathe I have never tried. Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I think the trouble is Slaters has no competition. Len Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I think we are all forgetting just how reactive iron, and by dint of that, steel, actually is. It features tenth in activity using a simple GCSE type scale. It reacts with water and acids, it is NOT found in it's natural state in nature. You only have to look through your alloy wheels if you drive the car in damp weather, then let it stand for a day or so, to see new rust on the brake discs. And that's just with water and sometimes some salt. If Slaters wheels are coming into contact with ANY moisture, which they will, through the card perforations, they are going to rust. Given the size of Slaters' range, some wheels may be in stock for quite a while. And if the cardboard has any acidic content, it will accelerate the rusting. We have two choices here: ask Slaters to make fewer wheels at a time, stock them for less time, and we be prepared to wait for them......remember they are, at present, often next day delivery, or over the counter at shows. Would we want to wait for up to 6 months for our wheels? Or we could clean all wheels as soon as we receive them, and either oil the surface, or blacken, to avoid rust. What we DON'T want to do is upset Slatyers too much, given the paucity of other suppliers....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I think we are all forgetting just how reactive iron, and by dint of that, steel, actually is. It features tenth in activity using a simple GCSE type scale. It reacts with water and acids, it is NOT found in it's natural state in nature. Yes but has the science changed all of a sudden. I cannot remember how many years I've been buying wheels (and not just 7mm or just from Slaters) but do not recall them ever being this bad. Putting it down to old stock or poorly stored is one thing but not on so many wheels. A small amount of surface rust is one thing (just a nuisance and time waste to remedy) but severe rust that leaves pitting is unacceptable. I build far more wagons than locos and have to add that wagon wheels do not seem to be affected (reaching for the nearest plank of wood) is that because wagon/coach wheels supplied on axles are not so much in contact with the card? Also note that although a vacuum is used to apply/shape the plastic layer the card has many perforations in it for any atmospheric moisture to permeate through during storage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 JeffP is right and so Kenton. I have spoken to Slater's this morning and awaiting a reply from David. I did say I was not complaining, just making them aware of the problem of serious rusting. (By the sound of it they are already aware of that though). I accept keeping them in storage is going to have a detrimental effect on the steel and card is going to exacerbate the problem. I certainly would not want to have to wait for wheels to be made up, that's bad enough when a kit manufacturer has no off the shelf kits available. Slater's does not have any competition but heaven forbid they ever close. The pitting on the worst of the wheels does not affect the running of the locos, I have pitting on some my older models and they run perfectly and the pitting has not worsened in any way. David can be a bit short at times, it has to be said. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 The last lot steel they purchased for production was probably produced from recycling 1980's/90's British built cars that had stood at Longbridge for ages before they were scrapped so the rust was already in the metal from new. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian@stenochs Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I build far more wagons than locos and have to add that wagon wheels do not seem to be affected (reaching for the nearest plank of wood) is that because wagon/coach wheels supplied on axles are not so much in contact with the card? Hi. I have just checked the wagon wheels I have in stock and most show rusting on the axles where the are held by gooey sticky tape. A bit of a pain to get off too. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted July 21, 2014 Author Share Posted July 21, 2014 It would appear that the card backing is the culprit. Card absorbs moisture. I reckon the answer would be to ditch the card backing and substitute with a plastic type of backing. I, too, have never had wagon/coach wheels rusted up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 Ian, to remove sticky-tape goo, rub the area with WD40 or similar, leave for a few minutes, then rub off with paper towel etc. If a grease free surface is needed, wash with water and detergent. This works with other surfaces like plastic, painted metal etc too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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