jazz Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Hi Shez. That's a very good plan. Yes, there is a get out for any mess ups (I have had to use it myself sometimes). If the oval is a bit out of line use narrow strips of off cuts soldered vertically each side of the oval using a axle bush as a guide. On a loco I use callipers to get an accurate measurement between each axle hole for reference. Place a bush in each hole and take that measurement. So if it goes wrong you can then use that measurement to put it right with the strips if brass. When doing doing the tender there is no need to take the two frames together as you can use the untouched one for reference. Then use the one you have altered as that will be correct as a reference to the second frame. Hope that explains things for you and is not too confusing. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shez Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Thanks for that very clear explanation Jazz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Hello Ken, Silly Q re your springing method, what holds the bush in place. Being a novice In the past I have carefully elongated the bush itself once soldered in place. Regards Grasshopper J. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Hello Ken, Silly Q re your springing method, what holds the bush in place. Being a novice In the past I have carefully elongated the bush itself once soldered in place. Regards Grasshopper J. Hi John Please excuse me if I have read your post the wrong way. Do I understand correctly that you have elongated the axle hole, inside the brass bearing, to achieve the vertical movement of the axle? The normal method, used by Jazz and myself, is to elongate the hole in the chassis, into which the axle bearing fits, so that the bearing rises and falls with the axle. The axle bearing is not soldered to the chassis side but it must be a close sliding fit, vertically, in the elongated hole in the chassis side. It is important not to have any horizontal movement in the bearing as that will affect the spacing of the axles/rods on driving wheels but is not so critical on a tender, for example. There is some thought that a 'free to rotate' axle bearing will eventually wear away the chassis and result in unwanted horizontal movement so there are a couple of modifications that can be employed to prevent this. 1) drill a small hole in the bearing for the spring wire to fit into after making an 'L' shape at the end of the wire. 2) file a small flat on the axle bearing and solder a short length of scrap brass to the side of the chassis, either inside or outside, (it will be hidden by the wheel) so that it bears against the flat on the bush to prevent the axle bush from rotating but still allows vertical movement. I hope the above makes sense? Sorry for the hi-jack Ken. Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Hi. Thanks for that explanation, it saved me a fair bit of typing. On the issue of the bush turning I used to do what Sandy said regarding drilling a hole and bending the wire to sit in it. Works very well. But I stopped doing that when I realised the bush hardly turned plus I have a lot of built loco that do big milages over more years than I care to remember and had no problems of any wear on the frames. However on some frames that are brass and quite thin, I will add rubbing strips to the vertical sides on the inside of the frames. Regards, Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Hi John Please excuse me if I have read your post the wrong way. Do I understand correctly that you have elongated the axle hole, inside the brass bearing, to achieve the vertical movement of the axle? Hello Sandy many thanks for the precise explanation. Yes re above, when I've soldered the bearing in place I use a 3/16 ( if memory serves ) round chain saw file and just file about 1/2 mm off the top To give a bit of vertical movement. Regards John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Hi Simon. Takes me back to the days of Gateneal, El Crapo to name just two iffy kits. Having said that I actually liked the Gateneal kits as one could make a fairly decent model out of them. .... A bit late in the day, but couple of Gateneal kits were also "shot down" to 4mm scale and became part of the now-defunct Falcon Brass range. This included the "Modified Hall" and, no, it isn't very good. Footplate rivet detail is the "greatest work of fiction since vows of fidelity were included in the French marriage service"*..... *Blackadder Goes Forth Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Hello Sandy many thanks for the precise explanation. Yes re above, when I've soldered the bearing in place I use a 3/16 ( if memory serves ) round chain saw file and just file about 1/2 mm off the top To give a bit of vertical movement. Regards John. ????????? I refer the honourable gentleman to my previous reply!!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Hi all. Been back on the WB for the past 3 days building this North Star Design LNWR Passenger Brake. Not a bad kit to build even though some of the instructions were missing it was pretty obvious where the parts went. Especially as I had fairly recently build the 6 wheel luggage van. I started as normal soldering on as much of the detail a I could before assembly. (I then forgot to take photos of the chassis and roof build. The roof in particular had extra detail not supplied in the kit, namely the gas piping. The chassis twin tanks are not supplied and I used 5/16 brass tubing which was close to the holes in the supplied tank supports. The roof is removable using the snuff box style of fitting. I dispensed with the internal partition as this is unseen and didi not give enough support to the sides. So I used handy long strips off etches to give support 3mm below the tops of the sides. Anyway here is the result ready for cleaning and priming tomorrow. Details added. Chassis has the tanks split behind the wheels to allow swinging of the front and rear sections. All done. Roof detailing. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 Hi all. Just a quickie showing the brake coach all primed and ready for collection. Now it's onwards with some work on my layout for a short spell. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9430 Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 Hi Ken, You must have answered this before but what etch primer do you use? Regards Tim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 Hi Tim. I have never been impressed with etch primers. I use professional trade spray Tetrosyl. I warm the can in hot water prior to spraying the model which has also been warmed by the hair drier. I find the adhesion and finish is excellent. It is used on autos and will adhere to almost anything so ideal for models using plastics, white metal castings etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassey Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Hi all. Just a quickie showing the brake coach all primed and ready for collection. Now it's onwards with some work on my layout for a short spell. Passenger brake 5 - 1_Fotor.jpg Excellent build of an interesting vehicle Jazz as always but just an observation; not many LNWR D385 PBVs had torpedo vents as they were deemed unnecessary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Hi again. I've been enjoying working on the layout for a while albeit still on the WB. Another building has now emerged and placed on the layout. A soon as the weather improves work will resume on the scenery. The layout also has a name now it's REDRUTH. Anyway this is the latest addition. (Postings will also resume in the layout section in Jazz 0 gauge layout.) 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 (edited) Excellent build of an interesting vehicle Jazz as always but just an observation; not many LNWR D385 PBVs had torpedo vents as they were deemed unnecessary. Hi. Just picked up your post. This was built exactly as the kit was supplied and has to match with a rake already the chap has. Edited March 18, 2017 by jazz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Hi again. Returning the WB to actually a loco, this time for my layout. It's the Gladiator 2251 class Collett goods with the Churchyard 3000 gall tender. I've had this one sitting under the bench for a long time so enjoying building one for myself. Tis will have my usual springing and the plunger pickups will be on the tender. This due to the loco having dummy inside valve gear that will prevent the use of plungers. Here the photos of the tender awaiting the paint bench. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Hi Ken I thought you might like to see the condensing pannier now she has been weathered. Steve 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Hi Ken I thought you might like to see the condensing pannier now she has been weathered. Steve IMG_1208.JPG Hi Steve, Looks very nice. Is the weathering your handiwork? Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Hi Peter It's been done by Fred Lewis. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Hi Steve Steve. Many thanks for the photo. It looks really nice too. Just returned from a great break in Bath, sadly no railways were involved on this trip, but must give the wife a rest from them occasionally Now it's back to the GWR 2251 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Hi Peter It's been done by Fred Lewis. Steve Ah, the Welsh man in the pointy hat! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Hi all. Back to the WB after a grand old time in Bath. Onwards with the GWR 2251. The chassis is well under way and is at the point of awaiting fitting the body to Finnish it off. The motor is about as large as you can get in that model and is waiting for the motor bracket to be fitted in place when the body is finished. There will be no pickups on the loco, just on the tender as there is too much between the frames for them and I do not really like wipers, only if there is no option. The body was a bit of a pain getting the smokebox/boiler/firebox unit to line up. After much fettling and a bit of work with files finally got straight and square. The cab was a delight to make up. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Interesting that model loco builders still solder on boiler bands. It must be about 40 years ago that some of my clients stopped doing this and left me, as painter, to put them on with the lining and still put them on even if a loco was unlined. Tape is nearer to scale and it must save the builder some work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Interesting that model loco builders still solder on boiler bands. It must be about 40 years ago that some of my clients stopped doing this and left me, as painter, to put them on with the lining and still put them on even if a loco was unlined. Tape is nearer to scale and it must save the builder some work. I have on the odd occasion used tape for the bands but in over 500 builds I have done only around 10 models like that. I actually prefer soldering them on and all my own collection has it done that way. If the bands are too thick in the kit I change them for very thin brass or phosphor bronze. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 I have on the odd occasion used tape for the bands but in over 500 builds I have done only around 10 models like that. I actually prefer soldering them on and all my own collection has it done that way. If the bands are too thick in the kit I change them for very thin brass or phosphor bronze. Bands also have the advantage that they automatically clean up the joins between firebox and boiler, boiler and smokebox............... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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