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Stoke Courtenay


checkrail
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17 hours ago, Coach bogie said:

I liked the Hornby Grange. Sadly it lacked the pulling power required. as my Granges are usually on fitted freight. Grandfather used to work them to and from Swindon to Weymouth. He always preferred a Grange over a Hall out of Weymouth due to the climb away from the coast. Mine freight Granges are heavily modified K's that are VERY heavy and can haul the van trains up my incline.

Always a treat to see pics of your layout Mike.

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43 minutes ago, Buhar said:

No I think @Hal Nail was referencing Magnahesion with tongue firmly planted in cheek.

Alan 

 

I've still got a Lord of the Isles fitted with Magnadhesion.

 

It's a bit useless on nickel silver track...

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11 hours ago, Tim Dubya said:

 

Yep but if it's for weighting models it should be "reassuringly" expensive. 🤔

Reassuringly or eye-wateringly?

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9 hours ago, lezz01 said:

Wheel balance weights are a much more cost effective method of adding lead to a model than the lead foil. That is good for lead flashing on buildings.

Regards Lez.  

I use real lead flashing (12":1' scale). It's about 2-3mm thick and can be cut to shape easily with an old pair of kitchen scissors - or a new pair from a discount shop.

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I found an old lump of lead # which had been used to weight down a swimming pool ladder, as one did in the old days. A few kilos worth which should see me right for a while ##. I hope they watched their pool pH so not to suffer the Roman fate!

 

# I  assume, anyway. I guess it could have been depleted Uranium, I've often wondered about the faint glow in the railway room at night 😈

## recently I've moved on to using coated iron shot of which I also have a large free supply

 

 

 

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On 26/02/2024 at 13:58, lezz01 said:

Wheel balance weights are a much more cost effective method of adding....

 

Adding weight? 

Is it the sort of thing I could buy in a car repair shop? aka Halfords or the equivalent here in Spain. I need extra weights for the County tank loco and the 5g or 10g weights look to be ideal.

 

Thanks.

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1 hour ago, Neal Ball said:

 

Adding weight? 

Is it the sort of thing I could buy in a car repair shop? aka Halfords or the equivalent here in Spain. I need extra weights for the County tank loco and the 5g or 10g weights look to be ideal.

 

Thanks.

Most parts parts suppliers on sell in big boxes,  about 30 quid.  Depends on how many you want.  I would suggest asking a friendly tyre fitting business.  I'm sure they could LOSE a few.

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40 minutes ago, darthmh said:

Most parts parts suppliers on sell in big boxes,  about 30 quid.  Depends on how many you want.  I would suggest asking a friendly tyre fitting business.  I'm sure they could LOSE a few.

When a tyre is changed they rip off the existing weights and dump them, so no need to beg for new. Double sided tape will attach reliably.

Alan 

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23 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I use real lead flashing (12":1' scale). It's about 2-3mm thick and can be cut to shape easily with an old pair of kitchen scissors - or a new pair from a discount shop.

I use the same. When we had an extension built, I went round picking up the offcuts. My builder asked what I wanted it for and then gave me the remains of the roll. I am still using it.

 

In Australia, weight for wagons was an issue as I forgot to pack any lead. I have been using fishing weights from Big W, sold in big bags.

 

Mike Wiltshire

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On 10/03/2024 at 03:12, checkrail said:

These lovely little models were delivered this afternoon.  Even better, Rails of S. had offset the price with a gift voucher I'd had at Christmas and forgotten all about!

RapidowagonsMarch2024.jpeg.47cd3a4460938199ad66be49aae1bb86.jpeg

 

The glaring white roofs will soon go, as will the yawning gap between the vehicles. And after a bit of weathering or toning down I might get around to replacing the wheels with Gibson's.

 

If I allocate them to the pool of 'shuntable' wagons to appear in Stoke C. yard they'll need further work.  They're so free-running that otherwise there'd be no chance of operating them with sub-track uncoupling magnets. They'd just run back to the magnet every time you thought you'd just uncoupled them.

 

John C. 

They must have made it down under as well. Sudden appearance of unbuilt K's vans for sale. At the equivalent of £2.20 I could not resist. As my wife was binge watching cookery TV. It was built by bed time.

 

Mike Wiltshire

20240312_064538.jpg

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On 09/03/2024 at 17:12, checkrail said:

These lovely little models were delivered this afternoon.  Even better, Rails of S. had offset the price with a gift voucher I'd had at Christmas and forgotten all about!

RapidowagonsMarch2024.jpeg.47cd3a4460938199ad66be49aae1bb86.jpeg

 

The glaring white roofs will soon go, as will the yawning gap between the vehicles. And after a bit of weathering or toning down I might get around to replacing the wheels with Gibson's.

 

If I allocate them to the pool of 'shuntable' wagons to appear in Stoke C. yard they'll need further work.  They're so free-running that otherwise there'd be no chance of operating them with sub-track uncoupling magnets. They'd just run back to the magnet every time you thought you'd just uncoupled them.

 

John C. 

When I was experimenting with Dapol Ez couplings on one of my N gauge layouts I read somewhere that putting a small piece of foam between the wagon floor and the axle was a way of overcoming this issue. I haven’t tried this myself but just offer it as a snippet of information that someone out there shared

 

Brian

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1 hour ago, Dragonboy said:

When I was experimenting with Dapol Ez couplings on one of my N gauge layouts I read somewhere that putting a small piece of foam between the wagon floor and the axle was a way of overcoming this issue

Yes. Other ways include a bit of springy wire attached to the floor and bearing on the axle, or slivers of Plastikard stuck between axle and coupling mounting block to add a little friction. All need a bit of careful adjustment by trial and error. Of course steel axles don't help the situation and on many of my earlier wagons I replaced them with brass ones (sourced from somewhere in California!). Must get round to ordering some more. I seem to remember that they were offered in Imperial measurements, so had to order 1 1/32 inches for 26 mm. 

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On 02/03/2024 at 13:58, checkrail said:

5557 is on freight duty today, shunting the yard at Stoke C. while 6305 drifts past on a down class J freight.

shunt1.jpeg.1db4bb530fe7f534b2c53738078ee2c5.jpeg

 

 

 

At the risk of upsetting those lovers of Panniers you can't beat a 4575 variant, always loved 4588 shame the DVR sold her as she was my adopted loco at Paignton, many happy days spent on her

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8 minutes ago, John Besley said:

At the risk of upsetting those lovers of Panniers you can't beat a 4575 variant, always loved 4588 shame the DVR sold her as she was my adopted loco at Paignton, many happy days spent on her

I'm with you there John. I have two panniers, a 57xx and an 8750, and am holding back from ordering an Accurascale one. Just more of the same, and at least parts of mine were my own work/bodging.  But small prairies are the locos I covet in numbers.  I've got another Bachmann 45xx on the bench awaiting some fettling to add to the roster, and will be ordering a Rapido 44xx when I can decide which one.

 

Although if an earlier type of pannier came out - a 2021 for instance - I think I'd go for it.

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, John Besley said:

she was my adopted loco at Paignton, many happy days spent on her

 

It has to be 5239 Goliath for me John @John Besley as I had a very nice footplate ride on her nearly ten years ago now.

Edited by gwrrob
added detail.
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8 hours ago, checkrail said:

Although if an earlier type of pannier came out - a 2021 for instance - I think I'd go for it.

Well, I'm about to start my Nu-Cast kit, that's been in the round tuit pile for over 30 years, so you shouldn't have long to wait...

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I have found it a real pain to build, I have 3 on the go, they have all been in the boiling water at least once and one has had 3 baths because I dropped it and bent various bits of it. Most of the problem is getting the bits to fit snugly together to get a gap for the cab door wide enough, my 1st attempt the gap was 4mm, it's getting close to 7mm now! I need to check the drawing to see what it should be, again!

 

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