Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins

[33C]

On 12/11/2021 at 06:37, John Besley said:

Wasnt Nellie once produced with a Lord of the Isles dome...

Quite a nice model! 

Edited April 3, 2022 by 33C
added photo.

[John Besley]

Was that dome a push for over the original?

[33C]

4 hours ago, John Besley said:

Was that dome a push for over the original?

It seems to be. 

[DK123GWR]

When I got up this morning I thought about the logic worksheet I had planned to do a few questions from, and decided I didn't want to do it at that time (I will as soon as I've written this). So instead, I took one of these:

One of these:

And one of these:

Sadly, an unfortunate accident involving a saw befell two of our friends shortly after we met.

Perhaps Toby would fare better. Or perhaps not. Here he is with two screwdrivers, pretending to be some sort of rocket-propelled loco from the Triang Battlespace range:

In reality, what we have is a new footplate being glued to the underside of the fixed parts of the motor mounts. The screwdrivers are the right diameter to hold it in position. It's a bodge which kept the footplate high enough to avoid the driving wheels. While it may have looked better lower down with splashers, I haven't attempted anything requiring a scratcbuilt component more complex than a boiler before. there is an additional complication here, since the footplate can only be attached to the chassis, not the body (which might be the more natural approach) since if it were attached to the body it would have to clear the very bulky motor and mounts - this would need it to be far more delicate than it is, and I don't have confidence that it would survive until the loco was assembled (at least not when I am the one assembling it) if it were any thinner. There is also a limit to how low I can make the cab footplate (see below) and mounting it like this means that they are as close to in line as I am likely to be able to get them.

 

You can also see in the above photo that the rear motor mounting (one of the few plastic pieces on the chassis) has been filed down to clear the saddle tank, and that the rear of the chassis (which is not plastic) has been filed down to accept the cab. When I first test-fitted the cab, the buffer beam sat far too high, so I removed the bunker from the cab and cut away the central section of the cab floor. I then reinserted the bunker, so that I had effectively created a large notch in the base of the cab. The chassis now slots into this. The buffers still sit too high, but it is far better than it was. 

This is roughly where we are at the end of the day. I have attempted to glue the cab to the saddle tank, but because I didn't cut up Smokey Joe as straight as I'd have liked it is difficult to get good contact while keeping both pieces level. I'm leaving it overnight to let the glue dry - if it doesn't work, a rethink will be in order (perhaps glueing the cab to the chassis, taping paper/cling film to the cab, using some sort of filler to tidy up the saddle tank, and then peeling off the paper/cling film, leaving the saddle tank as a simple friction fit onto the chassis, which sits against the cab). Whatever happens, the gap will need to be filled at some point- is there a household/DIY material suitable for this? If not, what should I get? The body should eventually be a friction fit onto the chassis (because of the motor mounts against the saddle tank). The other point worth noting is the start of a frame extension at the front of the loco. This needs to be tidied up cosmetically, which will probably just involve a sheet of plasticard down each side of the supporting structure. Working with glue in this area was quite scary, as any accidents will see glue end up on the gear train - which I don't think will do much to help with smooth running.

Still to do:

- Tidying up the frame extension

- Making the front bufferbeam

- Fill gap between cab and saddle tank

- Hide the underside of the motor

- Add couplings (probably wire loops compatible with standard tension locks)

- Painting

- Adding some representation of outside brake gear, as seen on Terriers and Panniers (aspirational)

 

Here is a photo of it at a slightly earlier stage, sat in front of a Hall class (so I could check buffer heights). The loco is an 0-6-0ST inherited by the West Country Railway (the railway company operating on my much larger version of Lundy, whose name will probably change soon) from the Norton and Letchmouth Railway, when all of the island's railways were grouped. The GWR 101 cab seems to have become the N&LR standard, which has left me with a few spare 101 front ends. Any ideas for these?

 

[HonestTom]

15 hours ago, DK123GWR said:

When I got up this morning I thought about the logic worksheet I had planned to do a few questions from, and decided I didn't want to do it at that time (I will as soon as I've written this). So instead, I took one of these:

One of these:

And one of these:

Sadly, an unfortunate accident involving a saw befell two of our friends shortly after we met.

Perhaps Toby would fare better. Or perhaps not. Here he is with two screwdrivers, pretending to be some sort of rocket-propelled loco from the Triang Battlespace range:

In reality, what we have is a new footplate being glued to the underside of the fixed parts of the motor mounts. The screwdrivers are the right diameter to hold it in position. It's a bodge which kept the footplate high enough to avoid the driving wheels. While it may have looked better lower down with splashers, I haven't attempted anything requiring a scratcbuilt component more complex than a boiler before. there is an additional complication here, since the footplate can only be attached to the chassis, not the body (which might be the more natural approach) since if it were attached to the body it would have to clear the very bulky motor and mounts - this would need it to be far more delicate than it is, and I don't have confidence that it would survive until the loco was assembled (at least not when I am the one assembling it) if it were any thinner. There is also a limit to how low I can make the cab footplate (see below) and mounting it like this means that they are as close to in line as I am likely to be able to get them.

 

You can also see in the above photo that the rear motor mounting (one of the few plastic pieces on the chassis) has been filed down to clear the saddle tank, and that the rear of the chassis (which is not plastic) has been filed down to accept the cab. When I first test-fitted the cab, the buffer beam sat far too high, so I removed the bunker from the cab and cut away the central section of the cab floor. I then reinserted the bunker, so that I had effectively created a large notch in the base of the cab. The chassis now slots into this. The buffers still sit too high, but it is far better than it was. 

This is roughly where we are at the end of the day. I have attempted to glue the cab to the saddle tank, but because I didn't cut up Smokey Joe as straight as I'd have liked it is difficult to get good contact while keeping both pieces level. I'm leaving it overnight to let the glue dry - if it doesn't work, a rethink will be in order (perhaps glueing the cab to the chassis, taping paper/cling film to the cab, using some sort of filler to tidy up the saddle tank, and then peeling off the paper/cling film, leaving the saddle tank as a simple friction fit onto the chassis, which sits against the cab). Whatever happens, the gap will need to be filled at some point- is there a household/DIY material suitable for this? If not, what should I get? The body should eventually be a friction fit onto the chassis (because of the motor mounts against the saddle tank). The other point worth noting is the start of a frame extension at the front of the loco. This needs to be tidied up cosmetically, which will probably just involve a sheet of plasticard down each side of the supporting structure. Working with glue in this area was quite scary, as any accidents will see glue end up on the gear train - which I don't think will do much to help with smooth running.

Still to do:

- Tidying up the frame extension

- Making the front bufferbeam

- Fill gap between cab and saddle tank

- Hide the underside of the motor

- Add couplings (probably wire loops compatible with standard tension locks)

- Painting

- Adding some representation of outside brake gear, as seen on Terriers and Panniers (aspirational)

 

Here is a photo of it at a slightly earlier stage, sat in front of a Hall class (so I could check buffer heights). The loco is an 0-6-0ST inherited by the West Country Railway (the railway company operating on my much larger version of Lundy, whose name will probably change soon) from the Norton and Letchmouth Railway, when all of the island's railways were grouped. The GWR 101 cab seems to have become the N&LR standard, which has left me with a few spare 101 front ends. Any ideas for these?

 

I like it! It looks to me like one of Swindon's post-Grouping adaptations.

[33C]

This "bash" scratches an itch and is my entry in Corbs competition! (1) First, take a pile of bits......"Terry" looks gold! (2) Some old Jinty wheels with the solid backs, flanges filed down with two strokes of a coarse file, so i can still use the original pick-ups, are swapped onto the chassis then the crank-pin holes tapped 8BA to use the original rods. (3) Then a plan is offered up to get a feel for what goes where. (4) Next, chopping and mocking.

Edited April 9, 2022 by 33C
added detail

[33C]

(5,6,7) Superstructure coming together. Original dome used with an extension piece. (8) Reused coupling and new motor cover in cab. Now for pipes and paint!

Edited April 9, 2022 by 33C
added detail

[33C]

I present my William Adams, North London Railway, 4-4-0, Tank locomotive.

Edited April 9, 2022 by 33C
added photo.

[cypherman]

On 14/12/2021 at 19:26, 33C said:

I present my William Adams, North London Railway 4-4-0T. 

This is a truely wonderful build. Well done. Far better than my humble efforts.

[33C]

I need to make some NLR 4 wheelers now. Must eat more Weetabix.......(I need the cardboard!) 

Edited April 9, 2022 by 33C
added detail

[John Besley]

2 hours ago, 33C said:

I need to make some NLR 4 wheelers now. Must eat more Weetabix.......(I need the cardboard!) 

 

Well don't eat the box as well then .... the weetabix is what's inside the box

[33C]

On 16/12/2021 at 19:49, John Besley said:

 

Well don't eat the box as well then .... the weetabix is what's inside the box

Hey, it's all fibre......

Edited April 9, 2022 by 33C
added detail

[Annie]

On 15/12/2021 at 08:26, 33C said:

I present my William Adams, North London Railway 4-4-0T. 

That is a truly amazing piece of scratchbuilding.

[DK123GWR]

The 0-6-0 ST has moved forward a little. The tank has now been joined to the cab using Polyfilla. The adhesive used initially (Gorilla Glue) forms a very flexible bond, but it is strong enough to hold the pieces together. Therefore, I put some heavy objects on top while the Polyfilla was drying, and because this sets hard, it held its shape afterwards. This means that the rear buffer height is now better again than it was in my last post. I have also added a front bufferbeam (from a Dowlais 0-4-0, I think) although this is slightly too long, and will need sanding to fit the width of the loco. The couplings have been added as expected. Testing has revealed that there is enourmous variation in the height of tension locks on RTR stock. I think I will be able to adjust the couplings so they work with almost everything. The loco was also involved in an accident with a soldering iron (front left). The damage was a lot worse, but I managed to undo the worst of it by clamping the distorted section with some pliers and heating the pliers with a soldering iron. Meanwhile, another loco (on the modified frames of a Hornby Percy) seems to have found its way into the works, but that is a story for another day.

 

[Mol_PMB]

May I present a refugee from the following thread?

 

I think it has elements of a Hornby GWR 101 tank, including the chassis and parts of the cab. Plus some leftover bits from a tram or trolleybus.

 

[RedGemAlchemist]

All these are just reminding me that I really need to come up with something myself.

[009 micro modeller]

4 hours ago, Mol_PMB said:

May I present a refugee from the following thread?

 

I think it has elements of a Hornby GWR 101 tank, including the chassis and parts of the cab. Plus some leftover bits from a tram or trolleybus.

 

The Eclipse (and it’s companion, Coalition) is something of a real life pugbash, both having been rebuilt from steam locos.

[Mountain Goat]

On 17/12/2021 at 17:20, Mol_PMB said:

May I present a refugee from the following thread?

 

I think it has elements of a Hornby GWR 101 tank, including the chassis and parts of the cab. Plus some leftover bits from a tram or trolleybus.

 

 

It even has reindeer antlers ready for Christmas.

 

 

[Mountain Goat]

I have a wierd senario in that I have bought a loco that I was hoping to use as a donor loco, but it is a decent Pugbash in itself.  It has a Hornby Pug body and a Bachmann 0-4-0 chassis. 

 

Those Bachmann chassisis are very simply made. The Hornby versions seem more luxurious to me in their construction apart from the piston rods themselves. 

 

It is such a good conversion though even though the body does not have a means to secure it (Can easily be rememdied if I wanted to) that I am almost reluctant to make it into something else. (7mm NG). 

 

On a narroe gauge site a member has bought a lovely 7mm NG open cab Hornby Pug conversion which looks impressive. 

 

To the member above who made the nice 4-4-0T. That looks fantastic. The painting and lining really make it stand out.

 

Edited December 21, 2021 by Mountain Goat
I was not wearing my reading glasses.

[Mountain Goat]

When does this Pugbash competition start?

[Corbs]

In the new year. I have managed to get some prizes but not had time to do the other bits.

[RedGemAlchemist]

2 hours ago, Corbs said:

In the new year. I have managed to get some prizes but not had time to do the other bits.

Good so I have time to find something to use as a base then.

[Paleopotato09]

So many choices, so little time. I wonder what I could create. 

[cypherman]

Hi all,

Mines already built... HEHEHE.......

[009 micro modeller]

16 hours ago, Corbs said:

In the new year. I have managed to get some prizes but not had time to do the other bits.

How specific are you going to be about what locos people can use as a base model?