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CARROG in 4mm & Ruabon discussion...


coachmann
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On another note to the above post, the LED will only work with the feed / red / black wires around one way on 12 V DC, so if you have NO LAMP, swap the Red / Black wires over.

Edited by Andrew P
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Good luck with the Dapol Wagons Larry, I've BINNED ALL MINE, the 6 Wheel tanks would ride up the Rail sides and de-rail on strait track, and DON'T get me started on the droopy couplings.

 

SORRY.

My Dapol 6-wheel tanks kept falling off at random. Wheels weren't square on the axles and back-to-backs all over the place. A bit of 'adjustment' and they ran OK. 

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Larry,

 

A couple of things

 

1. Yes Hornby have done a GWR Horsebox in BR livery, nice vehicle.  I believe some were converted to carry calfs instead of horses and they lasted until c.1960 - bit of a difference in markings but not much else although that is a very old memory of the things.

 

2.  Carrog had oil lamps, not gas lamps and there was often a subtle difference in the style.  If you follow the link below (which you might already be familiar with of course)  and then download the 'GWR 1924 Report' there is some information about Carrog and the linked page also has a good picture of one of the lamps (that picture will enlarge if you click on it.

 

http://www.carrog-station.moonfruit.com/restoration-policy/4576548834

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Taken from the Stationmaster's link...

 


 

"

It is known that as late as 1954 stations were still being painted in some areas with the stone colours.

 

External painting was expected to last four or five years before re-painting was necessary and weathering in this period depended very much on the location. A coast station would suffer from the high ultra-violet concentration in the light and weather to a totally different shade to that of a station in a smoky, sulphurous industrial suburb or one in a quiet country branch line."

 

 

So, it is quite likely that GWR colours survived into the 1950s....

 

Good....so I can leave Ffrwd Locks in the "Stone" colours....almost freshly painted....(Period C1952-1954). :D

 

post-12119-0-41131500-1503341811_thumb.jpg

 

Including a couple of Merit lamps... ;)

 

post-12119-0-63417900-1503427161_thumb.jpg

Edited by Sarahagain
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Larry,

 

If you want to stick with Tension Locks and you don't mind it being 'semi hands on' there is a way.  You need a ramp with a spring that holds it in the uncoupling raised position.  Drill a small hole in the middle of the ramp, countersink the hole.  You then thread a line dowm through the hole and secure the end in the countersunk hole.  You need to be able to pull the thread to move the ramp into the off position.. With me so far....  Then drill a hole in the baseboard, you already have these...  Secure the ramp in position.  Route the line round something to allow it to reach the edge of the baseboard.  Tie wire hook on the end about 4" from the edge.  Find a suitable elastic band to have sufficient strength to just hold the ramp in the down position.  To uncouple you reach under and pinch the line and stretch the band.  The ramp raises to allow uncoupling, let go when you finished and it lowers nicely.

 

Much easier to do than to type, worth a try, not too much investment. 

 

I use the scale Kadee couplers on HO wagons.  The disadvantage is the need to mount a box.  The advantages are smaller size and in my opinion the action is a little slicker, especially the coupling up.  Shame they don't do them with an NEM fitting.

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I use neo dyminium magnets each side of the rail for my Kadees, which work well - tiny things that slot into a drilled hole, but then I am still using DC, so this might not work for you.

 

Ben -if you dont mind me asking and if coachman doesnt mind me using his thread to ask, what specs of neodyminum magnets do you use and do you have any photos of how you laid them on your layout?

 

Many thanks, Andy R

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Shame they don't do them with an NEM fitting.

 

I may have misunderstood this, but Kadee do sell four NEM pocket compatible couplers.  They are all to the same height but of different lengths.  Look up numbers 17 through 20 in their catalog.

 

But I do know what you mean about retrofitting No. 5s to old HO rolling stock!  Been there a few times!

 

Paul

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Not satisfied with the weathering (too subtle),  I had another go at mixing a colour. All the wagons chassis were re-sprayed today, but I only need illustrate one....

attachicon.gifWEB Wagon weathering 3.jpg

 

Almost all of today was in fact taken up fitting and wiring four more Gaugemaster/Seep tension-lock uncoupling soleniods giving six in total. The two at the Llangollen end of the platform could be incorporated into a barrow crossing....

attachicon.gifWEB Uncoupling 1.jpg

 

Unfortunately a beam beneath the baseboard prevented me doing this at the other end of the platform...

attachicon.gifWEB uncoupling 2.jpg

 

A comparison with a Kaydee uncoupling magnet and the Gaugemaster uncoupling ramp....

attachicon.gifWEB uncoupling 3.jpg

 

An hour was spent shunting using the only loco with a brake feature and shunting mode which made it more controllable for precise spotting.. The loco still had to drop back to buffer up in order to compress and release the tension lock couplings.......... I had merely replaced the Kaydee shuffle with the tension lock shuffle!  But DCC locos do not react immediately to the controller, so I was watching for the slightest movement and then pressing the solenoid button to raise the ramp while the loco pulled away. Most of the time my timing was up the creek! Time for a re-think, so I installed a magnet and fitted the loco and a wagon wth Keydees to carry out several comparison shunt maneuvers for half an hour. The Kaydees had the edge so the days work on my back under the baseboard was undone in minutes and magnetic ramps glued over the holes left by the removed Gaugemaster ramps.

attachicon.gifWEB uncoupling 4.jpg

 

The Gaugemaster/Seep uncouplers would be fine with DC seeing as DC locos respond immediately to the controller. With DCC, I found myself holding the switch for periods that were unhealthy for solenoids while trying to gauge exactly when the darn loco was about to move off the ramp. If the six Gaugemaster tension-lock uncouplers are of interest to anyone, I'll let the lot go for half price.

Larry

 

Although the Gaugemaster ramps are slightly smaller I think the Kadee magnets look like they could be incorporated into a barrow crossing more easily, particularly at the platform ends.

 

You are really going through the mill on this one.

 

Paul

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Larry

 

Although the Gaugemaster ramps are slightly smaller I think the Kadee magnets look like they could be incorporated into a barrow crossing more easily, particularly at the platform ends.

 

You are really going through the mill on this one.

 

Paul

 
You wait till he goes back to 7mm...
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I actually LOVE the delay the Kadees bring to the operation, it shows more of a realisation that these things and jobs can't be hurried, slow and serene just like the real thing.

 

Time for another Brew in Carrog Tea Rooms me thinks.

Edited by Andrew P
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I may have misunderstood this, but Kadee do sell four NEM pocket compatible couplers.  They are all to the same height but of different lengths.  Look up numbers 17 through 20 in their catalog.

 

But I do know what you mean about retrofitting No. 5s to old HO rolling stock!  Been there a few times!

 

Paul

I meant that they don't do the scale head on an NEM

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I may have misunderstood this, but Kadee do sell four NEM pocket compatible couplers.  They are all to the same height but of different lengths.  Look up numbers 17 through 20 in their catalog.

 

But I do know what you mean about retrofitting No. 5s to old HO rolling stock!  Been there a few times!

 

Paul

 

I meant that they don't do the scale head on an NEM

 

 

To clarify a little....

 

There are, it seems, seperate ranges of Kadee couplers. The "Standard Head" range (Plastic and metal heads, Standard and "Whisker" springing), "Scale Head" range (Metal heads. Standard and "Whisker" springing), , and "Shelf Range" (Metal heads, "SE" and "SF" ranges with "Whisker" springing.) The "Shelf" range is designed to help minimise accidental uncoupling, and has larger heads it seems...

 

The "Standard Head" range includes NEM 362 Couplers #17 short, 18 Medium, 19 Long, 20 Extra Long. All to the same Heght (Overset) Plastic heads (metal knuckle flap).

 

There are also many others including #5 "Old Reliable" (Centre Set.) which are designed to use mounting boxes, either manufacturer's fittings (Mainly on US stock...) or "Draft Gear Boxes" supplied by Kadee.

 

Overset in Kadee parlance. The head is mounted over the top of the mounting tongue. Raises Knuckle Height in respect of the mounting.

 

Centerset in Kadee parlance. The head is mounted in line with the mounting tongue.

 

Underset in Kadee parlance. The head is mounted under the mounting tongue. Lowers Knuckle Height in respect of the mounting.

 

 

Kadee Website...Couplers pages

 

https://kadee.com/htmbord/coupler.htm

 

Uncouplers Pages...

 

https://kadee.com/htmbord/HO-Scale%20Uncouplers.htm

 

https://kadee.com/

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Ben -if you dont mind me asking and if coachman doesnt mind me using his thread to ask, what specs of neodyminum magnets do you use and do you have any photos of how you laid them on your layout?

 

Many thanks, Andy R

I'll dig out a photo later if I can find it.

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Thank you for clarifying the Kadee Konundrum, Sarah.

 

I now realize what happened since I was a regular Kadee user.  All my Kadees were the original standard head.  This was in the late 1980s.  I was fitting whatever fitted best to various HO coaches and wagons and the No. 5 always seemed to be the fall back.  I must have dozens of them stored away.  As I understand it, Kadee started to have competition and the scale head was introduced by competitors, particularly with RTR locomotives.  For example, my Broadway Limited locos (GS-4, AC-4) have scale couplers which have been pre-coloured with rust, they were not made by Kadee.  Now, as you note, Kadee have introduced the scale head as well.

 

However, isn't the scale head going to be better for 4mm scale, assuming it is the prototype coupler on one's stock.  This clearly isn't the case for early BR railways, so it is a moot point I suppose, at least on Carrog.

 

Paul

 

Edit to add photo of Broadway Limited SP Cab Forward (HO) with scale coupler (which was not rust coloured, btw!):

 

post-20733-0-98738400-1503477004.jpg

Edited by Focalplane
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The second GWR 'Grange' was delivered this afternoon after PGH of this forum very kindly fitted a Digitrain ZS012A sound decoder, large bass speaker and stay-alive.  I was determined to use the big speaker and carved up and repainted a Bachmann 4000 gallon tender to fit on the Hornby chassis in readiness....

 

post-6680-0-28950600-1503418920_thumb.jpg

 

The Grange is a slippery beggar and this one was no exception, so I did my usual work-around. The pin through the bogie is too tall and lifts the leading drivers off the rails....

post-6680-0-64583800-1503418100.jpg

 

On this loco the pin had left its mark and was catching inside the cylinder screw and derailing the loco on points...

post-6680-0-99495900-1503418101.jpg

 

After nipping off part of the bogie pin, I turned my attention to finding some way of securing the 4000 Tender body to the chassis. Blue-tac, Evostik...?  Not my way.  after taking measurements off the Speaker and decoder, I too0k hold of the original Hornby Intermediate Tender and cut out the well with a burr and course file. The body fitted...just, and so it was screwed in place, the tool boxes glued back and the coal molding dropped in place. Job done, the loco is again reunited with its original Tender. Back to the shed now to alter CV's.....

post-6680-0-13293200-1503418103_thumb.jpg

Edited by coachmann
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Pre-uncoupling then spotting wagons with Kadee's and magnets.....(without the Kadee shuffle)...

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaRnDsnn5oQ&feature=youtu.be

Larry,

 

Nice action.  You've not done the classic shuffle, but you have got some motion going on, not just a straight pull.  That has allowed the magnetic force to open the coupler fully.  Is their some magnetic force acting on the axles?  Will it do the same if you have a heavy raft of wagons?  Also if you were pushing say 5 wagons into the siding slowly, would they all remotely uncouple?

 

Best regards

 

Ernie

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I had a look but I couldn't lay my hands on a naked shot of the neodyminium  magnets - there probably are some on my build thread, but I took a couple of pics showing the effect, They were buried in drilled holes at the rail edge and covered in ballast. The types I used were 2mm diameter, 2mm depth and I think used singly, although I may have put two vertically. I really should keep notes.... Here they are in action. Firstly pulled aside and then back to centre.

 

post-2642-0-67530700-1503447248_thumb.jpg

 

post-2642-0-71107600-1503447268_thumb.jpg

 

I also used the Kadee between track magnets in less obvious places. Here they are in Helmsdale's platforms. They are buried beneath sleepers but work OK with my Code 75 track.

 

post-2642-0-46694500-1503447234_thumb.jpg

 

 As you can see, a bit of variety in application - the LH one is above the surface and, alyhough not obvious, has sleepers painted on them while the other is beneath the plastic sleepers. Both work fine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Pre-uncoupling then spotting wagons with Kadee's and magnets.....(without the Kadee shuffle)...

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaRnDsnn5oQ&feature=youtu.be

Very useful and informative Coach, mind you I thought we were in Jamaica for one moment with the background music !

Good never the less :)

These short video postings of work we do always helps to enhance the descriptions I feel.

 

Keep up the good work !

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I had a look but I couldn't lay my hands on a naked shot of the neodyminium  magnets - there probably are some on my build thread, but I took a couple of pics showing the effect, They were buried in drilled holes at the rail edge and covered in ballast. The types I used were 2mm diameter, 2mm depth and I think used singly, although I may have put two vertically. I really should keep notes.... Here they are in action. Firstly pulled aside and then back to centre.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_0211.JPG

 

attachicon.gifIMG_0213.JPG

 

I also used the Kadee between track magnets in less obvious places. Here they are in Helmsdale's platforms. They are buried beneath sleepers but work OK with my Code 75 track.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_0214.JPG

 

 As you can see, a bit of variety in application - the LH one is above the surface and, alyhough not obvious, has sleepers painted on them while the other is beneath the plastic sleepers. Both work fine.

 

Many thanks for your reply. I am assumin from your description that each magnet is located on the inside of the rail but obviously seperated by a couple of mm of ballast. I think your experiences and photos back up several you-tube clips that also show that with the careful choice of magnet and right positioning of them, this can work and assist in aesthetics and operation - particularly after track has been laid- great for retrofitting it seems to me.

 

Really appreciate your photos thanks

 

regards Andy R

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I actually LOVE the delay the Kadees bring to the operation, it shows more of a realisation that these things and jobs can't be hurried, slow and serene just like the real thing.

 

Time for another Brew in Carrog Tea Rooms me thinks.

 

'Slow and serene' when shunting? - you have clearly never met any of the Shunters I have come across over the years where their main aim seemed to be to get back into the cabin as quickly as possible.  (You should have seen - or perhaps not - one of my chaps of colonial origin loose shunting passenger stock, a sight to behold (and lead to a major rollicking.)  Another one somehow managed to get three loaded 45 ton tankcars (bitumen fortunately) airborne on one occasion although nobody, including him, could work out how on earth he did it.

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