Stubby47's Project #1 - DM Four Mill Something

[sb67]

Nice one, where did you get them?

Steve.

[Stubby47]

A local hardware emporium coincidentally called Warriors.

 

But I'm sure they'll be available in other places.

[St Enodoc]

In a rare moment of lucidity, I've realised that two short guitar strings can be joined together, using the inside metal bit of a choc-bloc connector, to make a longer wire....

 

Sometimes, I amaze even myself.

I might be missing something here, but last time I picked up a guitar it was about four feet long. Why isn't a single guitar string long enough for such a small layout?

 

J. Page

[BlackRat]

Bought these today, £0.98 each.

20180321_183739.jpg

Should do for basic ground colour.

Where About are they Stu? Edited March 21, 2018 by BlackRat

[Stubby47]

Where About are they Stu?

Warriors, Tuckingmill, Camborne.

 

Not sure if they are any good and feel a bit light, will report back after use.

[Stubby47]

I might be missing something here, but last time I picked up a guitar it was about four feet long. Why isn't a single guitar string long enough for such a small layout?

 

J. Page

The layout is 4ft long, but the furthest points are almost at the far end, opposite from the controls, plus there needs to be curves in the tube to align with the tie-bar.

[NHY 581]

Warriors, Tuckingmill, Camborne.

Not sure if they are any good and feel a bit light, will report back after use.

 

I do hope you will be able to find the layout once you've sprayed that lot on.

 

 

 

Rob.

[Stubby47]

A couple of shots showing the basic track layout.

 

From the left hand, operating end:

 

 

 

From the right hand, 2nd operator's end (when the 2nd operator is running the NG and/or the doors & hoist).

 

 

 

A little explanation here. DLT was kind enough to invite me to operate Bridport Town at the Helston show last year. I took No.1 son Chris with me, who as many of you know is autistic. We got Chris to operate the level crossing & associated signals, which he thoroughly enjoyed. This got me thinking into how I could design a layout which he could help operate - swapping stock in a fiddle yard is not an option, nor is driving ( though this might be a future goal) as his tendency to drive as fast as possible causing accidents is not really conducive to a calm exhibition experience.

 

So, DM FMS was conceived to use simple servo-controlled animated items, mainly the u/g doors, which Chris could operate with his own control box and on-off switches. Hopefully, enough will be working for Taunton, and all should be complete for the Hayle Spring show at the end of May. Initially, the hoist motor will be controlled by a DPDT switch from the track main controller, but this could be improved to include more fail-safe switches to allow Chris to operate this as well.

Edited March 22, 2018 by Stubby47

[Stubby47]

Uncoupling - a few random thoughts.

 

Having used Dinghams, I was surprised at the power drain affecting the loco speed when in use ( from the same power pack).

 

I've also got both 00 and 009 couplings to consider.

 

So I'm going to experiment with treadles, to lift the couplings, worked by a home-made lever frame of coffee stirrers...

[St Enodoc]

Uncoupling - a few random thoughts.

 

Having used Dinghams, I was surprised at the power drain affecting the loco speed when in use ( from the same power pack).

 

I've also got both 00 and 009 couplings to consider.

 

So I'm going to experiment with treadles, to lift the couplings, worked by a home-made lever frame of coffee stirrers...

Any electromagnet worth its salt is going to draw about an amp, so it really needs a separate power pack.

[Stubby47]

Any electromagnet worth its salt is going to draw about an amp, so it really needs a separate power pack.

 

Agreed. I usually use an old H&M Clipper controller as a power pack, it has both 12v dc and 16v ac outputs - 12v for the uncouplers and 16v for the Gaugemaster handheld controller, as well as providing a backup track controller if necessary. 

 

I have a second Clipper I could use, but I'm also conscious of time (to purchase the Dinghams vs needing to get the track down), so will go for the simpler manual uncoupling.  If I can build enough space into the lever frame, it could be replaced with a bank of servos instead, at some point, without having to alter the main WIT alignments.

 

For the 00 stock, the treadles could also be replaced with moving permanent strong magnets, as a variation on the 'Brian Kirby' iron wires attached to the wagons' coupling arms.

[dhjgreen]

Any electromagnet worth its salt is going to draw about an amp, so it really needs a separate power pack.

Stu, if you are using the Dingham electromagnet, they draw nearly 1.5 Amps

[Stubby47]

A bit more finishing off this lunchtime.  The floor & wall of the office have been painted, prior to fitting the glazing and roof.

 

The loco that will be primarily underground has had a driver fitted, minus his lower legs, poor chap, and has been height tested in the loco shed - if it's ever allowed to venture that far.

 

 

 

Next phase is to stick the whole scene on a thin board, with the in-laid track within the shed in card. As shown, the lean-to will be a on a higher floor level, with a short, sloped path around the loco shed corner. There are steps to make for the office entrance, plus the ground filling / ballast where needed.

 

This will sit nicely in the front left corner, and hide the FY exits for both NG & Std G track.

 

More height can be added if needed with an airfield observation tower on the roof.

Edited March 23, 2018 by Stubby47

[Stubby47]

A wiring diagram has been devised.  The numbers relate to the point switches / tiebars, the black & red are the main feeds.

 

[2ManySpams]

A wiring diagram has been devised.  The numbers relate to the point switches / tiebars, the black & red are the main feeds.

 

wiring_plan.png

No red line between 2 and 4? Does that mean that the whole of the long side of the loop has variable polarity depending upon which way the points are set??

[Stubby47]

Yep, it works on Treamble so I saw no reason to alter it.

 

Sections numbered 1 & 2 should actually be swapped, reading the points from left to right.

[2ManySpams]

Yep, it works on Treamble so I saw no reason to alter it.

Sections numbered 1 & 2 should actually be swapped, reading the points from left to right.

So in a way you've got automatic protection for the points. If they are not set for the approaching road the loco won't move as both rails are the same polarity.

[2ManySpams]

The only issue you could have is if the loco is sat over the insulation gap between 2 and 4, and 2 and 4 were set in opposite directions. You'd then get a short.

[Stubby47]

Yes, and also loco isolating sections if needed. This is also true of the two top sidings, and saves having additional section switches.

[2ManySpams]

Yes, and also loco isolating sections if needed. This is also true of the two top sidings, and saves having additional section switches.

Cunning. Just have to make sure there's never a wheel sat on it bridging the isolation gap.

[Stubby47]

In practice, the track is split closer to one end of the loop, so parking a loco over the split would also foul the points.

[2ManySpams]

In practice, the track is split closer to one end of the loop, so parking a loco over the split would also foul the points.

So you've deliberately misled us by posting an inaccurate wiring diagram then Stu. Shocking. You'll be hearing from the Mods. ;-p

[Stubby47]

It's schematic, m'lud, and there's the truth and no mistake.

[2ManySpams]

It's schematic, m'lud, and there's the truth and no mistake.

And wot no point blades. Whatcha got to say about that?

[Stubby47]

Superfluous items, in my opinion, just keep the speed up.