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A forum area specifically and only for recording ideas and progress of individual's challenge entries in accordance with the challenge.

Stubby47's Project #1 - DM Four Mill Something


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  • RMweb Gold

The wagon was the wrong way round deliberately, to test pushing on to the transporter. The track used was just a spare piece, not part of the laid lines. When it's all in place the hooks will be the other end ( only) and there will be an uncoupler.

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  • RMweb Gold

As the loco shed door way is a little tall (deliberately so, honest), instead of full height doors the engineers have fitted a top hinged panel, this can be opened to allow movement of over-tall locos, but can also be used for additional ventilation.

 

post-7025-0-39370400-1521208360_thumb.jpg

 

The doors themselves will also be asymmetric, as the far door will need to open inwards, so as to not block the loading platform.

Edited by Stubby47
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  • RMweb Gold

Just a thought: how about a bi-fold door?

 

 Thanks, but that would mean having a rail across the doorway for the doors to hang off, which would get in the way of taller locos.

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  • RMweb Gold

I was just thinking of a large door with a second, perhaps smaller, door hanging from the side of it.  I confess, I'm struggling to find an image to illustrate what was on my mind.

 

Perhaps this will explain even though it isn't on a large structure.

7936703ed85b120fa24ca6aec767faed.jpg

 

Anyway, like I said, it was just a thought and I wanted to chuck it into the mix in case you felt it had some merit from a visual or constructional perspective.

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  • RMweb Gold

Ah, got you. I was imagining the huge aircraft-hanger style doors...

 

Yes, I could look at those kind of doors, though what the weight limit might be without further support (floor rollers ?) I'm not sure.

 

Strangely I had considered those sorts of doors for the front of the layout, as when open they would also provide information panels and hide the fiddle yards, but as I want to operate from the left (as viewed) one of them would get in my way.

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  • RMweb Premium

I was just thinking of a large door with a second, perhaps smaller, door hanging from the side of it.  I confess, I'm struggling to find an image to illustrate what was on my mind.

 

Perhaps this will explain even though it isn't on a large structure.

7936703ed85b120fa24ca6aec767faed.jpg

 

Anyway, like I said, it was just a thought and I wanted to chuck it into the mix in case you felt it had some merit from a visual or constructional perspective.

Great idea Rob. You certainly know your onions.

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  • RMweb Gold

Having considered the bi-fold doors ( thanks), I decided to go for Plan B with the inward-folding smaller door.

 

I think this is just about ready for the paint shop.

 

post-7025-0-77222600-1521240361_thumb.jpg

 

post-7025-0-24495700-1521240393_thumb.jpg

 

post-7025-0-96381700-1521240421_thumb.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold

More painting has occurred whilst watching the rugby.

 

This is mainly a first top coat, when dry further weathering will be applied.

 

post-7025-0-34305200-1521303477_thumb.jpg

 

post-7025-0-57348800-1521303500_thumb.jpg

 

Also the rear wall of the stores has been painted.

 

post-7025-0-18342500-1521303585_thumb.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold

Nice subtle paintwork, must have been a boring game.

 

Can you please describe how you turned that warehouse door upside down. Bit of a black art to me.

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  • RMweb Gold

Whilst all the building construction has been moving on, I've been thinking about point control.

 

Seeps were considered, but too many tales of woe have put me off. Similar with the Peco point motor switches.

 

Wire in Tube is favourite, but the wire I bought isn't long enough and the tube is slightly over large internally. Then there's the choice between slide switches and micro switches.

 

Fun, fun, fun.

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  • RMweb Premium

If you have a straight run from the baseboard edge to the turnout, I use piano wire and a slide switch. Drill a hole through the slide switch to take the piano wire, I use to short lengths of copper tube to act as collars either side of the switch which are soldered to the piano wire to drive the wire, this usually needs a bit of adjusting to get it right. I use some 10mm lengths of tube which are a sliding fit to act as guides these are soldered to brass pins to stop them moving and somewhere in the run you need to put in an omega loop. I normally fit them under the baseboard and bend an upstand at the end long enough to go through the hole on the tie bar and baseboard.

 

The switch is wired to change the polarity of the "V".

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  • RMweb Gold

That's more or less what I did on Treamble, except I ran the plastic tube through an electric choc block to hold the tube and allow finite adjustment, and feeding the wire through the side of the switch.

 

I bought guitar strings, rather than piano wire, hence why some are too short.

 

I also like the quietness of the slide switch, over the thump of the solenoid - yes, servos would be quieter, but with the control board and micro swich are not cheap ( enough).

 

The baseboard and foamboard are a total of 19mm deep, so I might run the tubes above ground for the last few inches if they are orientated to operate from the front. Or, I can run the tubes from the rear, but this would be counter-intuitive for the slide switches, which will be positioned nearer the front than the track ( to avoid reaching over the FY exit).

Edited by Stubby47
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  • RMweb Gold

In a rare moment of lucidity, I've realised that two short guitar strings can be joined together, using the inside metal bit of a choc-bloc connector, to make a longer wire....

 

Sometimes, I amaze even myself.

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  • RMweb Gold

More guitar wire has now been purchased, plus some L and U angled strip to make the hoist and counter weight frames.

 

Just need a few more warmer days to get out into the garage to progress things.

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