RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2017 Captain The instructions I received from the society stand was to file the backs flat first, then file the heads off, then finish off with a Swiss file (rail in a solid (thick metal) piece. Agree to chamfer the head from the tip at 45 degrees to upright at the end of the plaining, then round the tip, finish off with very fine emery paper. Each to the method that works for them You may well be right. I have only recently got the jigs out again to make more points and I'd forgotten completely how to use them! I had a quick look at the instructions in the packet, as I recall. Anyway, as is usual with my methods, after a lot of blood, sweat and bad language, I usually eventually get where I want to go, although there are usually easier ways of doing exactly the same thing! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted October 21, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2017 You may well be right. I have only recently got the jigs out again to make more points and I'd forgotten completely how to use them! I had a quick look at the instructions in the packet, as I recall. Anyway, as is usual with my methods, after a lot of blood, sweat and bad language, I usually eventually get where I want to go, although there are usually easier ways of doing exactly the same thing! I always file the fronts first. I find the jig gives me a good start on this but I need to finish off on the bench (using a large cork block to hold the rail down - much easier on the fingers). I don't use the jig at all to file the backs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2017 (edited) I always file the fronts first. The more I think about it, I believe that I have been doing the same. I don't use the jig at all to file the backs. That's very interesting. I do use it for the backs. I suppose I'll take any help that I can get in that regard! I like your idea about the cork block. Edited October 21, 2017 by Captain Kernow 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted October 21, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2017 (edited) The more I think about it, I believe that I have been doing the same. That's very interesting. I do use it for the backs. I suppose I'll take any help that I can get in that regard! I like your idea about the cork block. I find that I can't keep the blade level in the jig to file the backs if I have done the fronts first; but if I do the backs first I find that the rail is too thin to sit above the surface of the jig to file the head. It's probably me doing something wrong, but as John (Hayfield) said, we each find a way that works for us. Edit: I have made a little groove in the bench to hold the foot when I file the backs. Edited October 21, 2017 by St Enodoc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted October 21, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2017 Can't remember what it's called but I usually forget to file a little 'recess' in the running rail where the blade will sit. Just ensures the blade is tucked away. Don't have to but I think it is a good idea. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Tim Dubya Posted October 21, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2017 (edited) Can't remember what it's called but I usually forget to file a little 'recess' in the running rail where the blade will sit. Just ensures the blade is tucked away. Don't have to but I think it is a good idea. Phil Oh Philistine I don't do none of that filing out of rails business (perhaps I should?). I create a 'set' (bend) in the rail at the point ( ) where the curvy rail bends off (#TechTalk). It's position is shown on the Templop drawing. Disclaimer: I know nothing and even less about building track . Edited October 21, 2017 by Tim Dubya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 Top tip, thanks Captain & Hayfield I did a bit more meddling once out of the jig and compared my attempt to a pair of C&L blades (B's not A's) I have in stock. But completely ignored the 45° along the top, which I shall 'retro file' later. C&L managed to have two different blades first go in their pack. Tim it starts off at the tip at 45 degrees and is at 90 degrees at the end of the plaining, just makes the transition of the wheels smoother Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Tim Dubya Posted October 21, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2017 Well just finished welding on the other blade, hopefully I've got it right, my selection of Bachmann bogies, with a selection of different wheel sets go through ok (except the Lima set - thankfully otherwise I've been using code 500 rail or something!). Tie-bar next, after a cuppa and a back rest. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted October 21, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2017 Oh Philistine I don't do none of that filing out of rails business (perhaps I should?). I create a 'set' (bend) in the rail at the point ( ) where the curvy rail bends off (#TechTalk). It's position is shown on the Templop drawing. BenditlikePeckham.jpg Disclaimer: I know nothing and even less about building track . I tried that when Mr Soloman was showing me how to build points many moons ago. It was too difficult for me to get a decent set so I used the cheat's method as I was doing EM at the time. Probably won't be a problem with OOFSFFS as the wheels will just plough through. A. Cheat. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Tim Dubya Posted October 21, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2017 (edited) Well spent best part of an hour lovingly forming a tie bar from paxolin only to snap the ba$tard. To be honest the only way to fit them is off the board, as they can only really be fitted from underneath (unless you like crying), I now seem to remember I've always gone the Norman Soloman method before and never had a problem (well to be honest I've only ever fitted them to test track but they worked ok for the limited time I've used them). Norm explains how this is done in the trainporn masterpiece that is (was) 'Right Track 10 - Laying Terrific Track' DVD. No longer available, C&L used to sell it but you might find copies on eBay from time to time. Anyway, for those that want to give it a go here's the dimensions for the tie bar, you use bent and trimmed lace pins through the paxolin (or non conductive material of your choice) to solder to the point blades. Anyway, time to tidy up my toys so I can find them tomorrow. Cheers Wubya Edited October 21, 2017 by Tim Dubya 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 Just out of interest Tim, how do you bend the lace pins to right angles before attaching to the rail ? Its getting the small amount of pin left in the tie bar I've had trouble with in the past, that said its a method I tend to use so as not to put any pressure on the joints. Yours Ann Tisipation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Tim Dubya Posted October 21, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2017 (edited) Very pointy pliers, I still tend to get a couple of mm between the head and the bend of the pins though, not a problem if the tie bar is thin enough and you have a bit of room underneath, between it and the trackbed. As you say it puts no pressure on the point as the pins work as a sort of hinge. Edited October 21, 2017 by Tim Dubya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 Thanks matey, more or less what I thought. I've tried pre-bending to get them precise but doesn't seem to work so always done when put through the tie bar ( ha !) then the pins are all filed back as far as I dare to get a nice flat surface against the blade for soldering. Cheers Comrade 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2017 Frankly, I'd use brass rod of a similar diameter for that, rather than a pin, or perhaps N/S rod. Having said that, I prefer to use a thinned down copper clad sleeper for a tie bar in my OO points. By using a bit of cigarette paper tight between the blade and the stock rail, you can solder the blade to the tie bar and get the 'fit' of the blade to the stock rail just right. Not quite prototypical, I know, but in the greater scheme of things, and all that. I do do the proper job ones with brass rod droppers and under-the-board tie bars for the P4 ones, though. Not being funny or anything, but there it is. It's all good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Podhunter Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 I'd use brass rod of a similar diameter for that, rather than a pin The lacemaker's pins I bought are exactly that -- brass, but nickel plated. Since a pin already has a head, it's advantageous when you want to form a pivot through something thin, such as a tie-bar or valve gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted October 21, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2017 Just out of interest Tim, how do you bend the lace pins to right angles before attaching to the rail ? Its getting the small amount of pin left in the tie bar I've had trouble with in the past, that said its a method I tend to use so as not to put any pressure on the joints. Yours Ann Tisipation I bend them first. I find that they can still be eased through the holes. By the way I use wooden tiebars/stretchers as i have also found that narrow strips of paxolin with holes in them are just too fragile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted October 21, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2017 (edited) Frankly, I'd use brass rod of a similar diameter for that, rather than a pin, or perhaps N/S rod. Having said that, I prefer to use a thinned down copper clad sleeper for a tie bar in my OO points. By using a bit of cigarette paper tight between the blade and the stock rail, you can solder the blade to the tie bar and get the 'fit' of the blade to the stock rail just right. Not quite prototypical, I know, but in the greater scheme of things, and all that. I do do the proper job ones with brass rod droppers and under-the-board tie bars for the P4 ones, though. Not being funny or anything, but there it is. It's all good. Captain, like Podhunter I find that the head on the pin helps to hold the whole thing together. Regarding direct soldering to the tiebar, I have done this for many years on normal points with great success but on slips it makes the whole set up too stiff. Edited October 21, 2017 by St Enodoc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted October 22, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 22, 2017 This thread is getting too serious. A.Yorky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted October 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 22, 2017 This thread is getting too serious. A.Yorky Bloody good show! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Tim Dubya Posted October 22, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 22, 2017 (edited) Talking of serious, look at these what I found in me track play box... I honestly don't know what I was thinking, even after a lengthy description from Mr Ambis Austin (with photographs) I am still unable to fathom HTF how one assembles his mk4 stretcher bars. It might be that I was trying to picture this is my mind, which is always best kept in my mind... As for the BastardsBits range, can you tell that I haven't even opened the packet. I actually got this with a load of other 'useful' track bits like droppers and nickel silver strips in a job lot on the eBay. STOP IT, IT'S TOO SERIOUS! #P4Talk . Edited October 22, 2017 by Tim Dubya 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted October 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 22, 2017 Talking of serious, look at these what I found in me track play box... Ambis TieDie Etch.jpg I honestly don't know what I was thinking, even after a lengthy description from Mr Ambis Austin (with photographs) I am still unable to fathom HTF how one assembles his mk4 stretcher bars. . Other alternatives are available. Seriously, Tim, those etches must be intended for children to use, as they will be the only individuals with sufficient time left in their lives to understand how one builds these things and then assemble them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Tim Dubya Posted October 22, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 22, 2017 Yes indeed, I have tried to fathom them for years and even if I could fold them correctly I suspect any detail would be lost in the blob of solder used to 'stick' them together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted October 22, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 22, 2017 Talking of serious, look at these what I found in me track play box... Ambis TieDie Etch.jpg I honestly don't know what I was thinking, even after a lengthy description from Mr Ambis Austin (with photographs) I am still unable to fathom HTF how one assembles his mk4 stretcher bars. It might be that I was trying to picture this is my mind, which is always best kept in my mind... BastardBits Range.jpg As for the BastardsBits range, can you tell that I haven't even opened the packet. I actually got this with a load of other 'useful' track bits like droppers and nickel silver strips in a job lot on the eBay. STOP IT, IT'S TOO SERIOUS! Too Serious.jpg #P4Talk . There isn't a "What the....." button. I wish I was back in the Pecoboo bully boy thread I was only confused with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted October 22, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 22, 2017 I had a look on the Ambis web site, I think he needs to visit a couple of porn sites to see how to direct your customers to what they want to see. No wonder his bits are so complicated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted October 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 22, 2017 I had a look on the Ambis web site, I think he needs to visit a couple of porn sites to see how to direct your customers to what they want to see. No wonder his bits are so complicated. He directs customers to his bits......!!@$#!!*&&¥×!!!!........ What sort of a website are you on!!! Hells teeth, Sir!!!! Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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