Accurascale Class 55 Deltic - 4mm scale

[Chris56057]

6 hours ago, jools1959 said:

Depending on which one your looking for, contact Accurascale directly to see if there’s any cancellations.  The same would apply to Rails and Locomotion but don’t hold your breath.  There’s also D9000/55022 on eBay.

You'll need to sign up for the waiting list emails on the Accurascale website. There's a box (or at least there was) under each model to do this. 

 

https://www.accurascale.com/collections/class-55-deltic/products/9016-gordon-highlander

[Coryton]

13 minutes ago, Chris56057 said:

You'll need to sign up for the waiting list emails on the Accurascale website. There's a box (or at least there was) under each model to do this. 

 

https://www.accurascale.com/collections/class-55-deltic/products/9016-gordon-highlander

 

I if I recall correctly, when the models arrived at Accurascale there were some not (quite?) sold out, but all were then marked as sold out while they got everything shipped out and worked out what they had left.

 

 

[Enterprisingwestern]

9 hours ago, HarryLamb2 said:

Whilst waiting for my 1 Deltic from Rails I have just received 2 sets of 18.83mm gauge replacement wheels for my EE types 3 and 5 from Accurascale (very tasty wheelsets, very similar to SLW ones) So, I removed the wheels off one axle and replaced them with Ultrascale 3' 7" disc wheels just for comparison and here is the result. I will have a crack at using the Ultrascale wheels but if it doesn't work out I will be quite happy to use the Accurascale jobs as they are of excellent quality. Incidentally, the min. radious on my plank is a generous 4-5'. 

 

8 hours ago, Nick-L said:

Look at bit..well…undersized?

 

Accurascale seem to be of the opinion that Deltic wheels are the same diameter as wagon wheels, ie, 12.5mm, not the 14 and a bit mm or thereabouts they should be.

Shades of "mineralwagongate" again.

 

Mike.

[Mark]

21 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

 

Accurascale seem to be of the opinion that Deltic wheels are the same diameter as wagon wheels, ie, 12.5mm, not the 14 and a bit mm or thereabouts they should be.

Shades of "mineralwagongate" again.

 

Mike.

I think earlier in the thread they stated that they had used smaller wheels as a compromise for trains set curves because the top of the wheel is inside the body. Obviously this will be worse in p4. Those who aren’t constrained with tight curves can hopefully put scale wheels in and lower the body on the bogies. That is what I am hoping to do although in the interim I also have a set of Accurascale wheels on order.

 

Mark

[Coryton]

Just now, Mark said:

I think earlier in the thread they stated that they had used smaller wheels as a compromise for trains set curves because the top of the wheel is inside the body. Obviously this will be worse in p4. Those who aren’t constrained with tight curves can hopefully put scale wheels in and lower the body on the bogies. That is what I am hoping to do although in the interim I also have a set of Accurascale wheels on order.

 

Mark

 

To save everyone going back to find it:

 

On 07/02/2021 at 12:55, Accurascale Fran said:

Essentially the wheels themselves are slightly smaller in diameter than the real thing. This is a necessary compromise inspired by the NRM prototype Deltic model and Hornby Class 50 and allows us to meet the demands of the 2nd radius curvature negotiation of the British OO market.
 

We would of course would rather fully scale sized wheel sets, but interference testing due to the prototypical taper of the Deltic body on our model, coupled with the thumblehome shape showed the minimum radius would be 5th. This unfortunately would make the model unviable for sale and mass production. The alternative would be to copy another previous model of the production Deltic and include scale sized wheelsets but clear of the body. However, this would result in odd proportions on the model (as per the other model on the market) incorrect bogie placement, oversized gap between bogies and body, increased ride height and spoil the look of the model.

 

Model railways sometimes need a compromise and this was one forced upon us. We feel that this is by far the best compromise, as proven by the well received NRM prototype Deltic model and Hornby Class 50.

 

Cheers!

 

Fran

[Ian Hargrave]

7 hours ago, kitefighter said:

Hello, Sorry for the lateness to this party, but where can I buy one?

 

7 hours ago, jools1959 said:

Depending on which one your looking for, contact Accurascale directly to see if there’s any cancellations.  The same would apply to Rails and Locomotion but don’t hold your breath.  There’s also D9000/55022 on eBay.

Locomotion have both D9002 and 55002 still on their website as of this morning 

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

With my ambivalent hat on, Bachmann managed it OK.

 

Mike.

[Haverail]

10 hours ago, North Devonian said:

I asked Accurascale if they could send a blanking plate for D9004 they said should have been one Pinza’s box , there wasn’t so my plea has passed to warranty for them to decide if will send me one , I do hope so it would be nice to get them both running with Tulyar when that comes from  DPS hopefully next . Will the wife be in for that delivery.

Just to note that my Porterbrook is DCC sound and there was no blanking plate in the box. I do not need one but they are usually included and perhaps someone is unknowingly disposing off them rather then putting them in the box?

[Haverail]

9 hours ago, Soul Survivor said:

As I only run my locos on DCC I also took the opportunity to rewrite CV29 to 26 to switch off DC.

I did this reset but now the loco does not move at all, could you let me know what the default is please.

 

[Haverail]

HELP! I followed a suggestion on here to change CV29 to value 26 (should have thought about it first) I did this now the loco does nothing, other locos work but my Deltic has no power, sound or lights.

I am using an NCE Powercab, does anyone know the default value for CV29 so I can get it going again?

 

Thanks in advance

[Soul Survivor]

16 minutes ago, Haverail said:

I did this reset but now the loco does not move at all, could you let me know what the default is please.

 

Sorry hear you have encountered this problem. The default setting for CV29 is 30.

[Haverail]

5 minutes ago, Soul Survivor said:

Sorry hear you have encountered this problem. The default setting for CV29 is 30.

I've just tried 30, still nothing, hope I haven't mucked up the decoder. Is there a factory reset if I put it on a programme track?

I had already set CV2 to 3 and the running had improved greatly at low speed then thought I'd try CV29 as well......

Edited June 25, 2022 by Haverail

[mvwilson]

1 minute ago, Haverail said:

I've just tried 30, still nothing, hope I haven't mucked up the decoder. Is there a factory reset if I put it on a programme track?

 

Set  cv8 to 8 it resets it back to normal

[Steve Williams]

31 minutes ago, Haverail said:

I did this reset but now the loco does not move at all, could you let me know what the default is please.

 

I am not 100% certain on this, but doesn't the Powercab give you the option to turn off DC when you go through the initial set up stages (Option 1) when you enter programming track mode).

 

[Railsnail]

58 minutes ago, Haverail said:

Just to note that my Porterbrook is DCC sound and there was no blanking plate in the box. I do not need one but they are usually included and perhaps someone is unknowingly disposing off them rather then putting them in the box?

 

Didn't even think to check when my DCC Sound '022 arrived. My blanking plate is also AWOL!

[zr2498]

6 minutes ago, Railsnail said:

 

Didn't even think to check when my DCC Sound '022 arrived. My blanking plate is also AWOL!

Ditto

[Haverail]

19 minutes ago, mvwilson said:

Set  cv8 to 8 it resets it back to normal

I reset the loco number and then put it back to 9016 which seems to have cured the issue and now running again.

I set CV2 to 4 and it is now almost perfectly smooth at 1 and no stuttering. I wonder if the sheer weight of the loco makes starting off at a lower voltage difficult hence the stutter?

 

[boxbrownie]

12 hours ago, Steve Williams said:

There is an Autotune facility with ESU. Normally you set loco to forward direction, have a length of straight track )I find around 3ft is enough, set CV54 to 0. Hit F1 and it should set off like a scalded cat and them come to a rest. Give it a test run and if necessary fine tuning can be done by setting CV53 to 120 and then work up or down until you get smooth running. It is advised that you make a note beforehand of CV51 to 56, in case you want to revert. However, having said all that, F1 starts the sound on this model, so I am not sure whether it will work or not. Maybe someone with more knowledge on this matter may be able to clarify.

 

That’s correct, even with F1 sound. But I have found with other V5’s the auto tune doesn’t work very well a lot of the time, even when tried several times.

[Steve Williams]

2 minutes ago, Haverail said:

I reset the loco number and then put it back to 9016 which seems to have cured the issue and now running again.

I set CV2 to 4 and it is now almost perfectly smooth at 1 and no stuttering. I wonder if the sheer weight of the loco makes starting off at a lower voltage difficult hence the stutter?

 

That's interesting. I was going to try mine with a slightly increased start voltage, although sometimes I have found that speed step 1 is then too fast, which would seem to indicate that it's not a weight issue, rather just a the mechanism being a bit stiff. I think it's Zimo decoders that have a sort of kick-start option which is designed to overcome the initial inertia issue.

[HarryLamb2]

Considering the market that Accurascale is aimed at I reckon they have done an exeptional job with the wheels in 'OO' and 'P4'. 'Hobsons choice' was my first thought as I recall when re-wheeling my Bachmann EE Type 3's and the NRM DP1 for 18.83 which was only possible on my end-to-end trainset because of the very generous curvature of the track plus the total lack of ballast, scenics, buildings and any other form of decoration. Plus, I only use it when the tide is out!     

[RedgateModels]

10 minutes ago, Haverail said:

I reset the loco number and then put it back to 9016 which seems to have cured the issue and now running again.

I set CV2 to 4 and it is now almost perfectly smooth at 1 and no stuttering. I wonder if the sheer weight of the loco makes starting off at a lower voltage difficult hence the stutter?

 

yes, when you changed cv29 you mucked up your long address. Best thing to do is read 29 first then use a cv29 calculator like the one on the 2mm ossocation website to work out what you need to change it to to turn off dc running 🙂

[boxbrownie]

7 hours ago, aureol40012 said:

Just to clarify, he himself admitted it wasn’t a criticism as such as it was based solely on his personal preference for Zimo, and we know that there is no consensus that Zimo is better than Loksound or vice versa. I certainly wouldn’t call it a “real criticism” as he admitted it would be nitpicking.  

Very true, but I as another Zimo user would have liked the option or failing that (as I understand that AS collaborated with ESU with the sound) at least be able to include the speaker package with the Loco so another brand of decoder would be a straight swap/fit.

[Soul Survivor]

7 minutes ago, Haverail said:

I reset the loco number and then put it back to 9016 which seems to have cured the issue and now running again.

I set CV2 to 4 and it is now almost perfectly smooth at 1 and no stuttering. I wonder if the sheer weight of the loco makes starting off at a lower voltage difficult hence the stutter?

 

Glad to hear you have everything back up and running again. It could possibly be the weight of the loco requiring the need for a higher start voltage. In my experience most of my locos seem to perform well with CV2 set to 1. However, I do have a couple that needed this value increasing. In particular one of my  Heljan locos had to be increased to a value of 10 to get decent slow speed running!

[zr2498]

10 minutes ago, RedgateModels said:

yes, when you changed cv29 you mucked up your long address. Best thing to do is read 29 first then use a cv29 calculator like the one on the 2mm ossocation website to work out what you need to change it to to turn off dc running 🙂

Great info @RedgateModels

Here is a link to the calculator

http://www.2mm.org.uk/articles/cv29 calculator.htm

 

[boxbrownie]

3 hours ago, 97406 said:

 

One of the chains on my Ballymoss was loose at the body end when I opened the box, and after a few attempts at putting it back on, I said ‘Stuff it!’ and removed it from the bogie. You can barely notice. I’ll probably restore the upper lever to its position on the body when I do the bufferbeam detailings. I aspire to being quite rivet-counter-y, but in the real world I let the small fiddly stuff go.

 

The design of the chains on the 37 and subsequent Deltic runs will evolve, methinks, and as a first step at a super detailed, out of the box, British diesel locomotive, it excels. It also captures the shape of the real thing nigh on perfectly! One of them will end up with sound, which looks on the cards as an upgrade from Accurascale. 

The one chain on mine that was loose at the body end (the bracket was still 0n the body though) I fixed by laying the Loco on it’s side and cut a small slither of thin card to go between the bracket and the gap and bogie (didn’t want to drip glue where it wasn’t wanted) and put a tiny blob of Super Phatic glue on the bracket, left it a few minutes to go tacky then just carefully dropped/placed the end of the chain on the glue, once we’ll dry 30 mins or so it is perfect.

 

And that’s hard for me with my essential tremor I have, but can be done without bollocking up the model.