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Hornby - New tooling - Peckett B2 0-6-0ST


Andy Y
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On 06/09/2019 at 14:25, Norton961 said:

Can anyone tell me how accurate the livery for Sherwood is and how far back is that livery appropriate( ie can it go back to pre 1923) .

 

David

 

The livery is accurate. I don't know when it received that livery as all the photographs I've seen of it are from the 1960s and possibly a bit later into the 1970s.

 

There is one on this page.

 

https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/news/the-engine-shed/Hornby-2019-range

 

 

 

Jason

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On 06/09/2019 at 14:25, Norton961 said:

Can anyone tell me how accurate the livery for Sherwood is and how far back is that livery appropriate( ie can it go back to pre 1923) .

 

David

 

I stand to be corrected, but I believe that this particular beastie was built in 1927 and delivered to Sherwood from new

Edited by Caledonian
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14 minutes ago, Caledonian said:

 

I stand to be corrected, but I believe that this particular beastie was built in 1927 and delivered to Sherwood from new

 

The inf is as you have it according to the Hornby web-page:

 

https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/sherwood-colliery-co-ltd-peckett-b2-class-0-6-0st-no-4-sherwood-era-3-b500e3.html

 

cheers,

 

Keith

 

 

 

 

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So it's condition is some point from 1960 to 1969 then. Wonder when it got the wasp stripes and painted nameplates. I'm assuming it had "proper" nameplates originally.

 

Quote

In 1960, 1678 was registered with the Railway Executive for mainline use if required and continued in use at the colliery through to August 1969, when it was withdrawn from service.

 

 

 

Jason

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A short running session featuring  "Sherwood" in Lined Lime Green, edited with Real Sound. 
Sounds are provided by a number of similar class members from my sound collection, captured at various Gala and Preserved Railways over the past few years.

Hope you enjoy!

 

Edited by SDJR7F88
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Well, I received Westminster during the week. Unfortunately I did try to run it but it wouldn't only on full power. I managed to have a look at the loco this weekend and see if it had issues that I could solve. Well I have managed to get it running and very slowly but it seems to have 2 tight spots which can be heard as the motor, which I must say is very very good, struggles past the tight spots. I have been trying to locate them, it seems something in the wheels and con rods is the issue but I can't see where. I am reluctant to send it back to AJM models as I doubt they could do any better and they don't have any more in stock as DCC fitted. 

 

I have to admit  it it is a fantastic looking model the slow speed running is good now but the surging at speed due to the tight spots is annoying. 

 

I have compared it to my last Hornby loco the J36 which has none of these issues has great slow speed running and very powerful. I guess I have just been unlucky with the Peckett this time round. 

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17 minutes ago, DougN said:

Well, I received Westminster during the week. Unfortunately I did try to run it but it wouldn't only on full power. I managed to have a look at the loco this weekend and see if it had issues that I could solve. Well I have managed to get it running and very slowly but it seems to have 2 tight spots which can be heard as the motor, which I must say is very very good, struggles past the tight spots. I have been trying to locate them, it seems something in the wheels and con rods is the issue but I can't see where. I am reluctant to send it back to AJM models as I doubt they could do any better and they don't have any more in stock as DCC fitted. 

 

I have to admit  it it is a fantastic looking model the slow speed running is good now but the surging at speed due to the tight spots is annoying. 

 

I have compared it to my last Hornby loco the J36 which has none of these issues has great slow speed running and very powerful. I guess I have just been unlucky with the Peckett this time round. 

 

 

Why not return it to Hornby under warranty? 

 

You shouldn't be trying to sort this yourself. 

 

Rob. 

Edited by NHY 581
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One of my Pecketts, though an 0-4-0  had a tight spot it was OK flat out but with slow running you could see it "jerk" as it met the tight spot, despite my investigations and lengthy running sessions there was no improvements, I eventually tracked the tight spot to the right hand side coupling rods/connecting rods/slide bar area, removing the coupling rods I managed to break the connecting rod they seem to be made of a quite soft metal, I found the problem was one of the guide bars on the cylinder was bent slightly inwards allowing the crosshead to catch on the coupling rod bolts, thinking that like most Hornby models spare parts are unobtainable, I sourced a pre-owned replacement quite cheaply. then about a week later looking for something else on a well known action site I found a set of Peckett cylinders and connecting rods, they were duly purchased and fitted to the ailing loco, the loco now runs perfectly and my shunting layout has 2 Pecketts instead of one.

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4 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

 

 

Why not return it to Hornby under warranty? 

 

You shouldn't be trying to sort this yourself. 

 

Rob. 

 

Yes indeed. If the retailer it came from doesn't have any stock left, return it for refund and order elsewhere. As frustrating as it is to receive a defective model and have to return it, I now take the view that locos cost too much to accept unsatisfactory examples of them, and time spent investigating what's wrong with a new loco's mechanism can be better spent in other ways. More importantly, if model shops don't get duff ones sent back and grumble about it to the manufacturer's sales rep, there's no incentive for them to improve quality control for future releases and avoid us getting a repeat instance next time.

 

Having now had my example of Westminster apart for DCC fitment, I can report that the socket and blanking plug are just taped together rather than wrapped in heatshrink - much more sensible, so I'll retract my earlier rant about that! A Zimo MX616N does indeed fit, and could probably go at the front of the chassis where Hornby intended a decoder to go, but I put insulation tape down the side of the motor and body (where the instructions show the plug and socket) and tucked it into there.

 

Irrespective of control method, the loco runs nicely on the whole, although current collection is less reliable than I'd expected. I think cleaning the back of the wheels and pickups should do the trick as they're very greasy (in fact, the whole mechanism seems to have been very heavily lubricated; on removing the motor mount to apply the insulation tape, the worm was effectively sat in the middle of a box of grease that had presumably been thrown outwards during running in). I should then be even happier with it. I thought the proportions of it looked a bit odd from the rendered images at the time of announcement, but the finished article is a nice purposeful looking machine and an excellent companion to previous industrial releases like the W4 and Barclay.

 

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45 minutes ago, Rising Standards said:

 

Yes indeed. If the retailer it came from doesn't have any stock left, return it for refund and order elsewhere. As frustrating as it is to receive a defective model and have to return it, I now take the view that locos cost too much to accept unsatisfactory examples of them, and time spent investigating what's wrong with a new loco's mechanism can be better spent in other ways. More importantly, if model shops don't get duff ones sent back and grumble about it to the manufacturer's sales rep, there's no incentive for them to improve quality control for future releases and avoid us getting a repeat instance next time.

 

Having now had my example of Westminster apart for DCC fitment, I can report that the socket and blanking plug are just taped together rather than wrapped in heatshrink - much more sensible, so I'll retract my earlier rant about that! A Zimo MX616N does indeed fit, and could probably go at the front of the chassis where Hornby intended a decoder to go, but I put insulation tape down the side of the motor and body (where the instructions show the plug and socket) and tucked it into there.

 

Irrespective of control method, the loco runs nicely on the whole, although current collection is less reliable than I'd expected. I think cleaning the back of the wheels and pickups should do the trick as they're very greasy (in fact, the whole mechanism seems to have been very heavily lubricated; on removing the motor mount to apply the insulation tape, the worm was effectively sat in the middle of a box of grease that had presumably been thrown outwards during running in). I should then be even happier with it. I thought the proportions of it looked a bit odd from the rendered images at the time of announcement, but the finished article is a nice purposeful looking machine and an excellent companion to previous industrial releases like the W4 and Barclay.

 

The pick ups should be treated very gently....

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1 hour ago, Gilbert said:

The pick ups should be treated very gently....

 

I also have an understanding of this in relation to the W4..............

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12 hours ago, Robin Verth said:

One of my Pecketts, though an 0-4-0  had a tight spot it was OK flat out but with slow running you could see it "jerk" as it met the tight spot, despite my investigations and lengthy running sessions there was no improvements, I eventually tracked the tight spot to the right hand side coupling rods/connecting rods/slide bar area... I found the problem was one of the guide bars on the cylinder was bent slightly inwards allowing the crosshead to catch on the coupling rod bolts, 

 

I found exactly the same problem with a L&Y Pug. It took a very long time to identify the problem, but a very careful bit of bending cured it in the end. It now runs fine but occasionally the guide bars do "drift" back and need to be eased out again. I get the impression that they may have inadvertently been squeezed during assembly.

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On 31/08/2019 at 11:20, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Now I cannot tell you what will happen on the Peckett, but it will get its flanges reduced when I get one. 

Would this involve the removal of the wheel sets and individual wheels from axles and the use of a lathe, please?

 

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2 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

Would this involve the removal of the wheel sets and individual wheels from axles and the use of a lathe, please?

Probably not, this is the house of crudity. My preferred technique is to run the mechanism on flying leads, and use an old fine grit tool sharpening oilstone to take some flange off. Little at a time on each wheel in turn, taking several passes around the chassis, gently does it. With the depth near right, round off with some fine emery. (I take my inspiration from real running shed engineer's techniques such as greasing the rails to observe the mechanism running while the loco is static.) I will admit a micrometer to proceedings to make sure final diameter over flanges varies by no more than one per cent over the wheelsets.

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10 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Probably not, this is the house of crudity. My preferred technique is to run the mechanism on flying leads, and use an old fine grit tool sharpening oilstone to take some flange off. Little at a time on each wheel in turn, taking several passes around the chassis, gently does it. With the depth near right, round off with some fine emery. (I take my inspiration from real running shed engineer's techniques such as greasing the rails to observe the mechanism running while the loco is static.) I will admit a micrometer to proceedings to make sure final diameter over flanges varies by no more than one per cent over the wheelsets.

Thanks, most interesting.

 

I've had similar thoughts myself, in terms of reducing the thickness of the outerface of the flanges of my Model Rail J70 tram loco, which doesn't like the 'OO-SF' pointwork on one of my layouts.

 

Whether I do the same to my 'Westminster' Peckett depends on whether the flanges bump along on the C&L chairs or not.

 

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26 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

...I've had similar thoughts myself, in terms of reducing the thickness of the outerface of the flanges of my Model Rail J70 tram loco, which doesn't like the 'OO-SF' pointwork on one of my layouts...

I would check the construction very carefully, and maybe seek advice from Rapido. These may be split axle wheelsets, rather than the more robust steel axle force fit on plastic bush wheelset construction.

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