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Woodmere OO


pauln

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Thanks for the replies. I'll have a look at Woodland Scenics ballast too.

 

Couple more photos. I have fixed the small end board to the wall which allows the track to curve round fully and temporarily aligned the next board to it. This board will have the two main line tracks and the aim is to have a factory type track on the left where the piece of track is sitting.

 

The (Scalescenes) retaining walls are from the previous layout but are positioned where trains will exit a short tunnel scenic break (which starts at the end of the station on the far right of the picture. The platforms end roughly where the Class 33 is positioned and the trains then enter the "tunnel". Above the tunnel will be the station building with stairs down to the platforms.

 

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The second picture shows the final gap in the layout between the board resting on the trestle and the board on the cupboard units (about 4 ft in total) which will be filled by the board leaning up against the stacking crates. The aim is for this board to be liftable but I am extremely dubious about my ability to exercise the various skills that will be needed to build this bit (hence why I am leaving it until last)

 

 

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Having repainted the first area of rails from sleeper grime to dark rust it is time to see which ballast to use.

 

1st pic is Javis fine ballast. This looks way too big.

 

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2nd pic is woodland scenics medium grey which looks much better.

 

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My inclination is to go with the woodland scenics ballast. Views?

 

Also having a quick run is the latest fleet addition - Hornby Class 73. This sounds like a 4 VEP at low speed (looks like the same motor) so will be on the rolling road later for some CV alterations. This loco seems to be out of stock at every retailer and I was tracking a new one on ebay at £69! Luckily a second-hand unboxed one came up which I won at a very reasonable £34. :yes:

 

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It looks like it is going uphill but it is just a dodgy camera angle.

 

And last here is a very rudimentary track layout. The odd circuit is due to needing space to clear the door and an alcove for the airing cupboard.

 

post-961-0-66348200-1327859109_thumb.png

 

The top section is about 11 feet long and the long section under the window is 10 feet.

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So it was you that outbid me at the last minute on that 73!......and yes, some people are asking stupid money for them.

 

As a fellow recent returnee to the hobby, it's a steep learning curve isn't it? Have you considered Woodland Scenics "Fine" ballast? or if you want a more beige colour, Kiln Dried Sand from a builders merchants or DIY store. Much cheaper!

 

Layout's looking good. Stick with it!

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So it was you that outbid me at the last minute on that 73!......and yes, some people are asking stupid money for them.

 

As a fellow recent returnee to the hobby, it's a steep learning curve isn't it? Have you considered Woodland Scenics "Fine" ballast? or if you want a more beige colour, Kiln Dried Sand from a builders merchants or DIY store. Much cheaper!

 

Layout's looking good. Stick with it!

 

Sorry mate! I noticed a boxed one there for £40 at the moment with a couple of days to go. I think the colour of the Woodland Scenics is ok - it will get a quick dust with track dirt afterwards anyway.

 

Yes, definitely a steep learning curve with pretty much everything. I have got the hang of the wiring now but when I tried fixing the track at the baseboard edge with copper strip that went horribly wrong so I have abandoned that for now. WIll need to come back to it for the removable section.

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Thanks for the comments chaps. I went with Woodland Scenics in the end - the Javis stones seemed just too big compared to prototype. Anyway, ballasting is underway. First short section is completed and gauging works with a MK3 and some Peco platform edging is underway. The concrete track has been painted sprayed with Halfords Grey primer then with Peugot Antelope Beige (suggested in the "which Halfords paint to use" thread. The rail sides are done by hand with Railmatch dark rust. It looks a little bright so I think the story is that this section of track has only recently been laid with concrete sleepers and new rails.

;)

 

Also in the picture you can see the start of the retaining wall to the rear of the platform using Scale Scenes retaining wall. This time rather than print out on plain paper and glue to the card with a glue stick I have tried printing onto A4 labels as suggested in another thread. It doesn't save that much time on the large wall sections but it is a lot less messy (I am a messy worker!) on the smaller pieces like the capping stones.

 

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I was going to do a light dusting of sleeper grime but I don't trust myself not to overdo it and ruin the ballasting. Hmmm.

 

As regards the gauging the OO gauge standard dimensions suggest 11mm from rail head to platform nosing. I'm going for 12mm just to be safe. On the last layout I had to carefully shave bits off the metcalf card platforms as I'd put one too close to the track.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A couple of spare days in school half term has resulted in another step forward. Both main boards (the ones sitting on the cabinet bases) are now wired and in place which means I have been able to temporarily connect up all of the other baseboards and run a couple of trains round the whole circuit for testing (using some temporary track - don't worry about the track that goes alarmingly close to the edge!)

 

Couple of shots of the whole layout / room

 

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And a shot of 50035 Ark Royal on gauging surveys (with coincidentally a shot of the real loco in the background)

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another burst of effort and I now have two complete circuits of track fully wired in. The last section to be complete is shown in the pics below. On the left of the first pic is a crossover and a small traction depot (which will extend into the corner).

 

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On the far right of the second pic - this will be a "hidden" fiddle yard of sorts with a scenic break in the foreground near the NCE controller and in the background near the soldering iron

 

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Finally the station area. The long narrow section is the station approach. Due to size constraints this is at 90 degrees to the actual station area but would ideally all have been in a line. The mainline platforms will be where the class 47 and coaches are

 

post-961-0-85281700-1330877012_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

After a few weeks break for real life a little bit more ballasting and rail painting has been done plus mocking up an over bridge approaching the station (using some old Scalescenes retaining walls I had from previous layout)

 

post-961-0-70583200-1332090390.jpg

 

Also installed the first few platform edges (Peco sprayed with grey primer then Peugot Beige to represent the concrete colour)

 

post-961-0-94522900-1332090476.jpg

 

And considering the right layout for the diesel shed - currently behind the running lines with a fuelling point in the background (plus my paint collection !)

 

post-961-0-06655400-1332090411.jpg

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Thanks for the feedback. Progress is really slow but sooner or later I'll at least get the station area done.

 

Question : Does anybody know of a modern station ticket hall building kit (like the Knightwing N Gauge one but bigger). I have looked at all the Euro suppliers and I still can't find anything suitable. Will go on an over bridge above the platforms (not really anywhere else to put it unless I just mock up a low relief / photo on the back wall)

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Thanks for the feedback. Progress is really slow but sooner or later I'll at least get the station area done.

 

Question : Does anybody know of a modern station ticket hall building kit (like the Knightwing N Gauge one but bigger). I have looked at all the Euro suppliers and I still can't find anything suitable. Will go on an over bridge above the platforms (not really anywhere else to put it unless I just mock up a low relief / photo on the back wall)

 

There was an article in Model Rail a few years back for a station building which sat on a bridge with steps down to the platforms. It used bits from the Peco Office Buildings kit and an empty pyramid Ferrero Rocher box for a 'feature roof'. It looked excellent - I can't remember the issue number, but I suspect you could find out - would definatley be worth a glance on ebay for said magazine, even if you go down another route.

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There was an article in Model Rail a few years back for a station building which sat on a bridge with steps down to the platforms. It used bits from the Peco Office Buildings kit and an empty pyramid Ferrero Rocher box for a 'feature roof'. It looked excellent - I can't remember the issue number, but I suspect you could find out - would definatley be worth a glance on ebay for said magazine, even if you go down another route.

 

Interesting. I have nearly a full collection of Model Rail so I'll look back through them (any excuse for a browse!). I had considered using a Faller or Kibri swimming pool kit with a large glass roof so this is a similar thought I guess. The Peco Office building alone is the sort of style I was thinking of.

 

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Edit : And with the help of the Model Rail index on this site http://www.huddsrailwaymodellers.co.uk/ and a bit of keyword searching it led me to March 2003. Some bedtime reading. Thanks again

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  • 3 weeks later...

Love the ballasting!

Have you sprayed all the track grey primer then beige too?

 

Thanks.

 

All the track was sprayed grey primer, the rail heads were wiped clean, then beige, then wiped again. Finally I have been painting the rail sides in Railmatch dark rust by hand with a brush. On the wooden slippered track I will probably do grey primer then Railmatch sleeper grime to deal with the rail sides and the sleepers. The only problem with this is cost - I went through about 4 cans of spray on the last layout.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for that - Peugeot Beige paint ?

 

Will have to visit halfords!

 

I wonder could you do the sleeper grime, then mask the rail sides before the grey and beige, or would that be just painful! :)

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I've only just come across this layout and plan to follow your progress as its a similar plan to one I designed about 18 months ago (one of my first). As for timescale between updates, I wouldn't worry. I am on my 30th odd plan and 5th or 6th location, see what happens when you consult the wife! lol Good news is about a 3 months or so ago I took all my wife's ideas for layout size and location, binned them and hay presto! All my boards are now built.

 

If she reads this , that thin ice she's always on about may crack. lol

 

Good luck with the build.

 

Regards,

 

Mark

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for that - Peugeot Beige paint ?

 

Will have to visit halfords!

 

I wonder could you do the sleeper grime, then mask the rail sides before the grey and beige, or would that be just painful! :)

 

Yep Peugeot Beige. I guess you could do sleeper grime first. I think, though, that without the grey first you need a few coats so if going down that route I'd suggest grey, then sleeper grime then mask and beige. I might try that - it can't be more painful than hand painting rail sides (though it is therapeutically boring),

 

I've only just come across this layout and plan to follow your progress as its a similar plan to one I designed about 18 months ago (one of my first). As for timescale between updates, I wouldn't worry. I am on my 30th odd plan and 5th or 6th location, see what happens when you consult the wife! lol Good news is about a 3 months or so ago I took all my wife's ideas for layout size and location, binned them and hay presto! All my boards are now built.

 

If she reads this , that thin ice she's always on about may crack. lol

 

Good luck with the build.

 

Regards,

 

Mark

 

Thanks. Good luck with yours too. Once the boards are done it is easier to do small amounts at a time as spare time permits.

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  • 1 month later...

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