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Revised Hornby T9


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(Go to page 2 for picks of the tender frames amendment)

 

I've called the new T9 'revised' as it differs in a few respects to the original releases.

 

The model i have just unwrapped is R2831 T9 30726 BR lined black and late crest.

 

The documented / much frothed about issues with the original releases were:

 

:( The 6 wheel tender had the tender frames moulded back to front - this has not been fixed on my sample despite the photo on the box showing them the correct way round. What this means is that the guard irons which should be at the rear of the tender are actually next to the cab - not too useful there in real life when running tender first!

:) The 'brass' pipes / drain c ocks between the driving wheels were reversed (LHS on the RHS etc) - this has been sorted and the moulding(s) revised. (See old thread regarding this issue)

:) Poor traction due the the front bogie fixing lifting the front drivers off the rails - this is not a problem on my sample. I need to take the body off to see if they have altered the bogie fixing and will report back with photos.

 

As far as i know this is the first narrow cab T9 in BR black to have a 6 wheel tender and for my use it will become 30729. I just need them to do a wide cab in BR black with 6 wheel tender now.....(never pleased!)

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:( The 6 wheel tender had the tender frames moulded back to front - this has not been fixed on my sample despite the photo on the box.

 

 

Hi Chris

 

Simon K has also expressed his frustration at this, he says China was aware and changes have been made to the tool but sadly they did not implement the changes on this particular model. Hornby can however offer spare side frames for those who wish to make the changes themselves.

 

I would hope that future releases will be corrected.

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Hi Chris

 

Simon K has also expressed his frustration at this, he says China was aware and changes have been made to the tool but sadly they did not implement the changes on this particular model. Hornby can however offer spare side frames for those who wish to make the changes themselves.

 

I would hope that future releases will be corrected.

 

I'm almost surprised that they did the c o c k s (don't want to be censored!) rather than the tender frames. The frames are probably more noticeable to those not in the very know!

 

Regarding the tender frames what is the process for getting the correct ones? Send email to Hornby i assume. Do they need the old part back or do they send you a replacement on trust?

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I'm almost surprised that they did the c o c k s (don't want to be censored!) rather than the tender frames. The frames are probably more noticeable to those not in the very know!

 

Regarding the tender frames what is the process for getting the correct ones? Send email to Hornby i assume. Do they need the old part back or do they send you a replacement on trust?

 

Hi Chris.Have you seen the new book on the T9s by Richard Derry.It should be right up your street. :icon_e_smile:

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I'm almost surprised that they did the c o c k s (don't want to be censored!) rather than the tender frames. The frames are probably more noticeable to those not in the very know!

Well they fixed both of them when informed but it looks like they didn't destroy the original moulds after making replacement frames and the bloke in China got the old mould off the shelf for this batch..

 

I still need to sort a pair out for my original release model..

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Hi Chris.Have you seen the new book on the T9s by Richard Derry.It should be right up your street. :icon_e_smile:

 

Hi Rob

 

Knew about the book - apparently the container with them all in should be in the UK early/mid Nov. Getting my copy at Wadebridge show (profit to 34007).

 

All the best

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I'm almost surprised that they did the c o c k s (don't want to be censored!) rather than the tender frames. The frames are probably more noticeable to those not in the very know!

 

Regarding the tender frames what is the process for getting the correct ones? Send email to Hornby i assume. Do they need the old part back or do they send you a replacement on trust?

 

Email to Hornby; they didn't ask me for the old ones (but then it had taken several months before they got around to replying).

 

Sadly '312' in the R2813 set hasn't been amended in any way, and has all the same faults as before. Must assume they're bafflingly incompetent at the China end!

 

Still, mine runs OK and the finish on the engine and especially the coaches is pretty exceptional.

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Sadly '312' in the R2813 set hasn't been amended in any way, and has all the same faults as before. Must assume they're bafflingly incompetent at the China end!

 

Still, mine runs OK and the finish on the engine and especially the coaches is pretty exceptional.

Oh dear! I do wish you hadn't said that! I mean, that the finish is exceptional. I have seen an offer on e-abay from a reputable seller for ??140 for the set. If Maunsells typically cost ??24 each, then that means the loco is costing ??68! I feel a sort of deferred impulse buy coming on!

 

EDIT : Deferral lasted approx 2 minutes!

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Oh dear! I do wish you hadn't said that! I mean, that the finish is exceptional. I have seen an offer on e-abay from a reputable seller for ??140 for the set. If Maunsells typically cost ??24 each, then that means the loco is costing ??68! I feel a sort of deferred impulse buy coming on!

Well, olive-green T9 and half of set 329 duly arrived, and quite gorgeous they are, too. Whether I can ever justify buying the other half of set 329 (Hornby offer it in the ??60 bracket, making it good value) I don't know, as I have no UK layout to run it on, but that hasn't stopped me buying a few BCKs and a couple of PMVs, so what the heck? I looked with some trepidation at the 6-wheel tender and its much-remarked-upon silly guard irons. Since I was going to have to do some surgery to add a Digitrax DH123 - the socket doesn't leave enough room for such a decoder, although maybe Hornby's own offerings fit fine - I looked at the frames, and decided they might ease out without too much grief. A bit of wiggling with a very small flatblade screwdriver achieved that, and I then reversed them, removing the lug that now obscured the tender-top screw hole. I am fairly satisfied with the result - the guard-irons are where they should be. This talk of new frames worries me, though - are the original frames wrong, as well as reverse-installed?

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I'm almost surprised that they did the c o c k s (don't want to be censored!) rather than the tender frames. The frames are probably more noticeable to those not in the very know!

 

Regarding the tender frames what is the process for getting the correct ones? Send email to Hornby i assume. Do they need the old part back or do they send you a replacement on trust?

The latest from Hornby as reported in MRE is that they will change the tender frames for you :)

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Andrew, you really don't need to change the frames. Just very carefully remove the existing ones and swap them left to right with the guard irons to the rear

The only complication is that the screw holes for the tender top would then be blocked by one of the two little strengthening lugs/gussets on the inside of each frame. Simply remove

these with a fine file or a craft knife before you refit the frames into the tender floor. Each frame is lightly glued to the tender floor and has 3 locating lugs. On my model I

found these came away cleanly and with very little cleanup of the lugs and the slots in the floor piece, I was able to re-assemble and glue back with a very little

plastic cement . The loss of the inside "gusset" referred to above does not seem to affect the strength of the re-assembled item as the frames are held perpendicular

to the floor quite well by the 3 locating lugs and holes and there is another inside gusset still intact as well.

 

All in all it took me 15 minutes, and I am a very average modeller

 

Good luck - it is well worth doing for the improvement in appearance

 

Norm

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Andrew, you really don't need to change the frames. Just very carefully remove the existing ones and swap them left to right with the guard irons to the rear

The only complication is that the screw holes for the tender top would then be blocked by one of the two little strengthening lugs/gussets on the inside of each frame. Simply remove

these with a fine file or a craft knife before you refit the frames into the tender floor. Each frame is lightly glued to the tender floor and has 3 locating lugs. On my model I

found these came away cleanly and with very little cleanup of the lugs and the slots in the floor piece, I was able to re-assemble and glue back with a very little

plastic cement . The loss of the inside "gusset" referred to above does not seem to affect the strength of the re-assembled item as the frames are held perpendicular

to the floor quite well by the 3 locating lugs and holes and there is another inside gusset still intact as well.

 

All in all it took me 15 minutes, and I am a very average modeller

 

Good luck - it is well worth doing for the improvement in appearance

 

Norm

 

Further to the above, you also need to cut little notches at the top of what becomes the rear of the frames if you want the buffers still to retract.

 

JE

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Thank you nnich and Belgian for the useful instructions.

 

As it happens I don't need to give it a go - I was waiting for a late crest version but decided against when I saw the weathering effect. Instead I decided to wait for an unweathered late crest example. I haven't yet bought a Hornby 75000 yet for the same reason (late crest BR1B tender)because I'm not convinced by Hornby's factory weathering of steam locos (it's fine for diesels).

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A problem surfaced with my T9 today. I lifted it of the tracks to add a crew to the cab and found the front bogie dangling by the wires. The pin had sheared off level with the top of the bogie housing.

 

Any suggestions for field repairs here in the US would be most welcome.

 

thanks

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A problem surfaced with my T9 today. I lifted it of the tracks to add a crew to the cab and found the front bogie dangling by the wires. The pin had sheared off level with the top of the bogie housing.

 

Any suggestions for field repairs here in the US would be most welcome.

 

thanks

 

Hi Ken

 

At the position where the pin was located on the bogie drill a clearance hole for a 10BA screw and use a 10BA Cheesehead screw inserted downwards from the hole in the chassis and cut to a suitable length to just allow a nut to be located under the bogie. I would suggest also a small spring to be located around the screw between the bogie and chassis (it might take some trial and error to get the spring tension and length correct to not lift the front driver of the track) I would then secure the the nut either with a little solder or even a drop of molten candle wax.

 

I hope this suggestion helps (and for that matter makes sense).

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Thanks Graham. I was thinking along these lines but needed some validation.

 

Unfortunately I need to convert a 10BA to it's US or Metric equivalent to do the US location field repair.

 

I have not indicated it here but I am almost closer to the factory in China than Margate as I live in the SF Bay Area.

 

Ken Adams

Now designing the Padstow and Pacific in Walnut Creek, California

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Thanks Graham. I was thinking along these lines but needed some validation.

 

Unfortunately I need to convert a 10BA to it's US or Metric equivalent to do the US location field repair

 

Ken Adams

 

Ken

 

10BA is approx 1.5mm

 

If you PM me your address I will pop a couple including nuts in an envelope for you.

 

regards

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Graham

 

Thanks for the offer. I have already fixed it using a trusty US ANSI 2-56 machine screw about 1/4 inch long. As this current fix is threaded into the top of the bogie housing and has only a small amount of play rather than going all the way through, I will revisit when the track gets beyond the 2X8 test layout.

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Andrew, you really don't need to change the frames. Just very carefully remove the existing ones and swap them left to right with the guard irons to the rear

The only complication is that the screw holes for the tender top would then be blocked by one of the two little strengthening lugs/gussets on the inside of each frame. Simply remove

these with a fine file or a craft knife before you refit the frames into the tender floor. Each frame is lightly glued to the tender floor and has 3 locating lugs. On my model I

found these came away cleanly and with very little cleanup of the lugs and the slots in the floor piece, I was able to re-assemble and glue back with a very little

plastic cement . The loss of the inside "gusset" referred to above does not seem to affect the strength of the re-assembled item as the frames are held perpendicular

to the floor quite well by the 3 locating lugs and holes and there is another inside gusset still intact as well.

 

All in all it took me 15 minutes, and I am a very average modeller

 

Good luck - it is well worth doing for the improvement in appearance

 

Norm

 

Norm,

 

Having changed four of the tender frames, I can assure you that Hornby's glue varies in quality from lightly glued to super-glued; maybe there is such a thing as a 'Friday afternoon job' in China too? For those frames that resisted my persuasiveness, I resorted to a sharp knife to perform the adjustments. Like you say though it's not too much hassle and the improvement in appearance is well worth it.

 

Glenn

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Can the T9 haul the full set of 6 coaches?

 

Thomas

They all should, as long as the bogies is adjusted as on the first issue, the bogie took too much of the tractive weight and reduced haulage.

 

The latest issue seem to addressed this, but have not addressed or checked the 6 wheeled tender frame problems, not a Chinese problem, but a problem of no QC checks at Hornby UK.

 

I have just had a friend deliver one to me for correction, easy to do, but why should we have to do Hornby's job for them?

 

Stephen.

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Stephen:

 

1. Hornby WILL do the job for you if you ask them to!

2. Simon Kohler acknowledged the problem and has gone on record to say that the error was supposed to have been corrected at the facotry with the latest batch, but obviously something went wrong at the other end.

 

I do take exception to your attitude regarding the already acknowledged problem. Yes, a mistake occurred. Yes Hornby will fix it upon request. I don't think we, as consumers, could ask for anything more. Comments like yours are unnecessary and inflammatory.

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