HealeyMills Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Not much done today due to a late finish at work.... As Brian has pointed out, the lower of the horizontal parts of the bogies should be solid... so I need to fill these. I have just tried an equivalent of squadron filler but all that happened was I made small cylinders as when I tried to rub the filler down the dried parts just popped out of the holes. Does anyone know what is best to fill holes in the resin material that JLTRT make these kits from? Doh!!.....I should have done a search for Resin Filler..... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/54930-resin-filler/ Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 You beat me to it...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 JLTRT do make the solid equalizing beam, is it to late to ask for some and replace yours? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Its worth pointing out that as the years went by some 20's built with bogies with holes received bogies without ( of either sort) and vice versa after overhaul. Brian Daniels pictures both show the loco with the solid beams, but its not impossible that at some time it had the ones with holes. John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 You beat me to it...... Thank you Jeff JLTRT do make the solid equalizing beam, is it to late to ask for some and replace yours? Hmmm, I did not know that they did the loco with the solid equalising beam.... I have now filled the holes and hopefully, fingers crossed, they will be ok. If they aren't then I may call them. I would have to un-glue all the parts added so far though I shall certainly order the solid beams for my next two as it is taking forever to smooth the filler down Its worth pointing out that as the years went by some 20's built with bogies with holes received bogies without ( of either sort) and vice versa after overhaul. Brian Daniels pictures both show the loco with the solid beams, but its not impossible that at some time it had the ones with holes. John. Hi John, Thank you for that info. I have several pictures of 20045 and (if I had looked properly) I would have noticed: 1) That the air pipes were mounted on the bottom side of the buffer beam 2) That the equalising beams were solid Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 30, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 30, 2015 Lee............tell you what, if you say nothing........nor will we Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Ah well these things happen I guess After an afternoons work I managed to fill the holes on the bogie equalising beams and complete the bulk of the side frame air pipes and detailing: The filler on the equalising beams probably needs a further sanding but I intend to leave that until I have a coat of primer on to see how bad it actually is. All that remains for the bogies now is to fit one small piece of pipe (if I decide to) and fit the steps. I have also filled the holes in the buffer beam from the spurious and erroneous drilling for the air lines It is probably about time I started the electrics by connecting the bogie power take-offs and the motors. Once that's done I'll start sanding down LED's and wiring those into the cab/ nose fronts I guess. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Here you go Boxbrownie, just for you... another coupling that I made this eve: With, I might add, a working trunnion bar. Quite pleased with this one too. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 30, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 30, 2015 That's more like it........looks ready to couple now Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Glad you approve of the coupling David. Sadly today has not gone well at all.... it's been one of those days where you wish you'd stopped and come back to the project another day. Following my delivery of drill bits and brass sections from Eileens I was prompted to have a go at sorting out the buffers. They comprise of a buffer oleo housing, a spring which fits onto the buffer shank that is inserted into the oleo housing and then it is all held together by a small nut. How difficult could that be??? Well, I spent 6 hours trying to drill them out and get them working. In the end I had three buffers assembled, each one had a good silky smooth travel when no spring was present and a perfect fit. However, with springs inside did they spring back once pushed in? - NO!!! ... and getting the spring into the housing on the buffer shank seems like a mission impossible. Even using Brians suggestion of using half a spring did not work either. I must be doing something very wrong... perhaps I have not drilled out the oleo housing sufficiently? But I felt that if I drilled out too much it would lead to the buffers wiggling about in the housing. Well by then end I have three buffers fitted to the loco and I shall decide whether I keep them non-moving (which is disappointing and I'm not happy with that) or change them: You are probably asking yourselves, What about the fourth buffer? Well the buffer shank became well and truly stuck fast inside the oleo housing. How? I have no idea, but I could not free it at all. In the process of trying to free it I broke the threaded portion of the buffer shank: So its back to the drawing board. I have sent an email to JLTRT asking for guidance and also if they can provide me with a replacement Oleo housing, buffer shank and four springs. It must be my error and I'm obviously doing something wrong, hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction. I figured I would then try to fit some of the LEDs..... ha, well then I noticed I have to mill out some of the resin as its not possible to fit the LEDS due to the depth and contours of the nose. At this point, with the success I'd had today I figured it was best to stop. I shall have a go at that tomorrow, but why I did not look at that before I fitted the nose to the loco body - I have no idea Oh well, I guess you can't have it all your own way every day. Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Happy New Year Lee, Sorry to hear of your buffer drama's I am sure you will get it sorted. All the best Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 I'm sure Laurie will help you out, he has a great knowledge of most of the JLTRT range and spares are usually sent the same day. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Happy New Year Lee, Sorry to hear of your buffer drama's I am sure you will get it sorted. All the best Peter. Hi Peter, I'm sure it's a storm in a tea cup Having slept on the idea, I think I just need to drill the bore of the oleo out a little more. So far it is drilled out with a 2.2mm bit... perhaps I can go a to 2.3mm or even 2.35mm which should give the spring room to maneuver. Happy New Year to you too, all the best for 2016 I'm sure Laurie will help you out, he has a great knowledge of most of the JLTRT range and spares are usually sent the same day. Martyn. Hi Martyn, Thank you for the reply and I'm sure you are right. Previously I have had 100% backup from Laurie and the team at JLTRT..... however, I expect he might be feeling delicate today so I guess it will be a few days yet before they return to the office. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted January 1, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 1, 2016 Annoying those little hiccups.......sometimes it appears everything has been done correctly but they still go "boobies up". Occasionally a drill will not leave a very clean bore, maybe try a small needle file in each end to smooth the bore or even get hold of a reamer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Hi David, I shall ponder your suggestions. I am more convinced that the bores are just not big enough.... I've made that decision on the fact that getting the springs inside the oleo housings was such a drama. If I now think about it, the spring diameter is probably being reduced and this is in turn putting a sideways force onto the shank of the buffer, this is impeding the longitudinal force that it is meant to be exerting. Anyway, after a harrowing morning... and there is no other way to describe using a whizzing Dremel with a high speed cutter only millimeters from the exterior shell of my loco, I've managed a bit more. In order to fit the tower LED's I 've had to sand the tower part down to approx. 1.4mm in order to fit into the marker and tail tight holes that I have drilled out from the loco. I noticed yesterday that the length of the tower is not sufficient to get through the thick nose of the loco as the resin casting is quite substantial. So... here we are: I then had to make a few 'adjustments' to the cab too by taking out a little of the post that is moulded onto the inside of the cab for the brake wheel. With lights fitted, the ordeal is over: Thanks for looking in Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Despite yesterdays debacle I was determined that this minor setback wasn't going to put me off the loco build. So having had a rather traumatic morning with a Dremel I decided I should just do some part of the build I really enjoy. Now don't ask me how I have come to like cutting and filing nickle silver but I find it quite therapeutic for some crazy reason!! As I had mentioned before, the cab door handle was bugging me and I can't quite understand JLTRTs reasoning behind making the handle as part of the cab casting/ moulding. It was really outwith their level of detail: So, I decided this should be done: When I removed the handle I kept the square moulding that represented how the handle was fixed to the door. This I used as a guide to drilling an 0.8mm hole for one of the spare handles from the body side engine bay doors, then just removed the remainder of the door handle with a little piece of wet and dry. However the real cab handle sits at an upward angle and is not parallel to the soul bar like those on the engine bays doors. So a quick adjustment and hey presto: whilst I was having a bit of success I thought it a good opportunity to finish off all the door handles on the engine bay doors.... and for that matter have a go at the handrails too: The handrails fixings were really easy to drill out with a 0.7mm drill bit which, I must admit, I was surprised at. I thought I would have at least ruined a few... but no, everyone spot on. As I drilled them out I tested each one with a piece of nickle silver rod and then test fitted on the loco nose and sides. Adding the handrails themselves was a bit of a faff but I got there in the end. I guess it was a bit of a faff because I was not gluing the handrail fixings insitu, they are only placed there for the moment as I will remove them for spraying: Finally I cut and cleaned up the stanchions and fitted those too, which now doesn't leave too many parts to fit before I start spraying. So here are a couple of pics of the loco together (I wished I'd fastened the body down tbh... Oh and the front hand rail is curved to the shape of the nose, I just didn't align it properly for the photo): (Photo-stitched) All the brake parts will be fitted after I have primed and put a coat of black on the under frame as I need to remove the wheels to get at the bogies. Which leads me to a question: I have some JLTRT model cleaner, but there are no instructions for use on it. Does anyone know how to use this stuff.... or alternatively what do people use to thoroughly clean their models before spraying?? Thanks for looking in (I hope some people still are... or I'm talking to myself ) Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Grumpy Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Of course not! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scouser999 Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Hello Lee, I keep popping in to see your fascinating updates. I have been wanting to make a JLTRT class 40 for years.. I followed your trials and tribulations build of 40118 with great interest. Your detailed photos and write ups are true inspiration. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Of course not! Phewwww!!! Hello Lee, I keep popping in to see your fascinating updates. I have been wanting to make a JLTRT class 40 for years.. I followed your trials and tribulations build of 40118 with great interest. Your detailed photos and write ups are true inspiration. Steve. Hi Steve, Thank you for the comments. The only advice I can give is DO IT!! They are great kits to build and as you can see I have very little modelling knowledge/ savy.... so if I can do it, anyone can Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted January 2, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 2, 2016 Lee........ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Nearly there Have you a spare handrail support casting? There should be two close together on the right-hand side, looking from the cab forwards, where the ladder went through the handrails when fitted. You can also see in the picture a safety valve for the water system sticking out of the roof. I made one from a piece of wire and a bit of tube stuck on the end. Keep on with it, slowly but surely we get to the end eventually. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted January 2, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 2, 2016 And not forgetting the "trampoline" guard mesh over the fan! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Nearly there Have you a spare handrail support casting? There should be two close together on the right-hand side, looking from the cab forwards, where the ladder went through the handrails when fitted. You can also see in the picture a safety valve for the water system sticking out of the roof. I made one from a piece of wire and a bit of tube stuck on the end. Keep on with it, slowly but surely we get to the end eventually. Hi Brian, Thank you for pointing that out. I have done just that with regards the extra handrail mount as I had seen that on your picture of 20096 on Flickr. I've run out of the nickle silver wire that JLTRT sent me so I'm hoping they'll send me some more. I had ordered some from Eileens but when it arrived I noticed it was shorter than the last lot I had so I was unable to complete the loco right hand side handrail I had not noticed the water system safety valve so I shall attempt that later. I'm just on with the AWS detector and coupling protector at the moment Yes, it's coming together nicely now.... even more so when I sort those buffers out!! And not forgetting the "trampoline" guard mesh over the fan! Hi David, I have an etched grille on order from Shawplan so I have that to make up yet Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 There you are Brian Something like this: ..and in situ: Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted January 2, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 2, 2016 Now your just showing off Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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