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Dapol 'Western'

Andy Y

By Andy Y
in Dapol

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cctransuk

cctransuk

Posted
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Posted

If, like mine, your D1000 is missing a few roof panel lifting rings, you may be interested to learn how replacements can easily be produced and fitted.

 

Take some fine enamelled copper wire, as used in 12V motors, etc. and a length of 0.4mm. diameter wire.

 

Form the enamelled wire into a tight U around the 0.4mm. wire; grip the two tails of the U and turn the 0.4mm. wire so as to form a small ring with a twisted 'stalk'.

 

Cut the stalk a couple of millimetres from the ring.

 

Drill a hole to suit the 'stalk' at the location of the missing ring; grip the replacement ring in tweezers, and dip the 'stalk' in a tiny puddle of superglue.

 

Insert the stalk in the hole.

 

Result, after a touch of matching paint, is virtually indistinguishable from the etched originals, and *much* more secure.

 

I've a feeling that, over time, all of the etched rings on my D1000 will be replaced by wire ones!

 

..... oh, and Phoenix Desert Sand is a dead match for the Dapol version.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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pinzaboy

pinzaboy

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys

 

I have purchased the Green version and here are my thoughts:

 

For:

Excellent rendition of the real thing

 

All the small extra parts fit beautifully into the holes with no need to open them out. (Unfortunately, there was one pipe missing from the bag).

 

Lovely smooth runner

 

Problems I have encountered:

In DCC causes a short on some Peco insulfrog points

 

When removing the body to fit decoder watch this one - as the body lifts off the part inside which has the small light lense poking through the body broke off. It is a really delicate part and once its broken, so are your lights. It would seem almost impossible to predict this unfortunate damage unless you know in advance how the model is constructed. In fact the whole thing is not helped by some sticky black material which either holds things together or stops light bleed. Or both. Anyhow, no little lights on my Western!

 

The headcodes - enough has been written about them already. But as has been said before, the Heljan Hymek codes fit very nicely and make all the difference to the front end.

 

 

Hope this is of interest. Despite the problems I have mentioned I love it, and will be getting the blue and maroon versions too!

 

 

Tim

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the-gog

the-gog

Posted
Posted (edited)

Bzzz...wrong on a few counts.  [a] You've filled barely an inch of a page column  No photo's of the model in question were included and sadly [c] you've been reviewing the reviews clearly missing the point that the glazing rubber on the headcode panel isn't the real issue the actual frame part itself has been lost in dimensional accuracy....

 

Good try but no cigar.

 

edited to stop the software screwing up my (a) ( B) & ©'s - see just like that.

Evidently you missed the part where I said that that was all I had time to write as I was in a hurry. If you'd read the entire thread, you'd see that I *do* know what the issues are regarding the headcode panel, and I've proposed a couple of solutions. Do keep up at the back...

Edited by Andy Y
Possible inflammatory comment removed.
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the-gog

the-gog

Posted
Posted

Looking at the headcode warm white LED light on my D1000, I think it could be improved on a little to make it look more like tungsten. Ditto with the cab lights. Lee filters do a range of gels (i.e. colour filters) to correct white LEDs to tungsten, but they don't do them in anything warmer than a 5000K blue-white LED. I'll order a swatch book soon and try out a variety of their yellow and orange gels. I'll first measure the colour temperature of the fitted LEDs (unless Dapol Dave has the spec to hand) using my colorimeter, and I'll also measure the values for different gels. Helpfully, Lee's LED to tungsten range has gels for high colour temperature, i.e. above 7000K, which are the blinding blue-white LED. I'll experiment and report back.

 

This is also pertinent to the Heljan 128 DPU thread - I've noticed from the video posted that its LEDs could do with toning down and warming up quite a bit. Again, gels to the rescue. Then again, Quality Street wrappers may be suitable. I'll test those as well.

 

RWJ

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Andy1963

Andy1963

Posted
Posted

I do like reading all these comments on how a model that has been developed with the assitance of people on this website can be improved.  Personally, when I get mine, I'm going to stick the name plates on, put a decoder in and run it as is and be very happy that we have such a fantastic example of the undoubted most handsome diesel that ever graced the network.

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D1056WesternSultan

D1056WesternSultan

Posted
Posted

Thank goodness. At Last.  Someone

 

I do like reading all these comments on how a model that has been developed with the assitance of people on this website can be improved.  Personally, when I get mine, I'm going to stick the name plates on, put a decoder in and run it as is and be very happy that we have such a fantastic example of the undoubted most handsome diesel that ever graced the network.

Well done Andy,

 

At last and thank goodness.

 

Someone who is going to run his Dapol western and not just publish a lot of hot air, diatribes, conjecture and .......

 

I thought this was a forum for railway modellers not a mothers meeting.

 

Please please can we close this thread Mr York as it is now soooo far off course and its getting very boring.

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Guest Phil

Guest Phil

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thank goodness. At Last.  Someone

 

Well done Andy,

 

At last and thank goodness.

 

Someone who is going to run his Dapol western and not just publish a lot of hot air, diatribes, conjecture and .......

 

I thought this was a forum for railway modellers not a mothers meeting.

Please please can we close this thread Mr York as it is now soooo far off course and its getting very boring.

On the contrary Western Sultan, we are just getting to an interesting bit which is very relevant to this thread, and is in no way boring. "the Gog" has offered to delve into the realms of gels to improve the look of LED lighting on models. This is very interesting to me, as I have a number of models seeking some kind of treatment.

 

Please carry on "The Gog", it is of interest to me, both "warming" up cold white headcode box LEDs, and making orange LEDs into something more usual realistic on cab lighting and lit headcode displays.  

Edited by Phil
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Allegheny1600

Allegheny1600

Posted
Posted

Looking at the headcode warm white LED light on my D1000, I think it could be improved on a little to make it look more like tungsten. Ditto with the cab lights. Lee filters do a range of gels (i.e. colour filters) to correct white LEDs to tungsten, but they don't do them in anything warmer than a 5000K blue-white LED. I'll order a swatch book soon and try out a variety of their yellow and orange gels. I'll first measure the colour temperature of the fitted LEDs (unless Dapol Dave has the spec to hand) using my colorimeter, and I'll also measure the values for different gels. Helpfully, Lee's LED to tungsten range has gels for high colour temperature, i.e. above 7000K, which are the blinding blue-white LED. I'll experiment and report back.

 

This is also pertinent to the Heljan 128 DPU thread - I've noticed from the video posted that its LEDs could do with toning down and warming up quite a bit. Again, gels to the rescue. Then again, Quality Street wrappers may be suitable. I'll test those as well.

 

RWJ

Hi Richard,

Thanks for this, I think there is nothing whatsoever wrong in offering an example of how even the best RTR model can still be improved with little personal touches - no amount of laser scanning etc can capture the immeasurable!

I say that, knowing that my eyes work (just slightly!) differently to yours and everyone elses so I see things like colours and colour warmth very slightly differently and therefore this is a great way of personalising the model.

Next, will be how to make the model sound differently perhaps?

Cheers,

John E.

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the-gog

the-gog

Posted
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What I'll do is start a new topic to deal with this. I've ordered various warm white LEDs from Express Models, and I've a few brilliant blue-white ones here as well. I'll measure their colour temperatures, and then with various gels. I've got a box of both Roses and Quality Street to test the coloured wrappers in those (it's a hard job, but someone's got to do it!). Soon I should have a Lee Filters sample book, and again will test those gels.

 

The "right" and the "wrong" lighting is hugely important. It never ceases to amaze me how modellers worry over the right shade of maroon or BR blue, or LMS Crimson Lake, or over the tiniest of details, yet go and ruin everything by using blu-white or yellow LEDs to represent tungsten. Arrrrggggghhh!

 

RWJ

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Guest jim s-w

Guest jim s-w

Posted
Posted

It's gone very quiet.  S'pose everyone's busy playing trains with their new Dapol Westerns :haha:

 

You know how the model railway world is.  There's been the Bachmann announcement and the new Heljan 128 has come out since the Western did.  Attention shifts so easily these days.

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gridwatcher

gridwatcher

Posted
Posted

BR blue ones and the balance of the green ones arrived late today (Tuesday), I would expect them to start going to stockists tomorrow so keep an eye out on Thursday onwards.

 

Cheers

Dave

Oh dear....... Heljan 128 one week Dapol Western the next....plus sound chips for both. March is looking painful already!

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Enterprisingwestern

Enterprisingwestern

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This very nice photo on Flickr suggests that D1000 was at some stage turned out in MSYP livery but still embellished with its cast alloy lions:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/steve75c/4229114351/

 

Does anyone know anything about this?

Exactly what are you asking?

 

Mike.

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Rugd1022

Rugd1022

Posted
Posted (edited)

This very nice photo on Flickr suggests that D1000 was at some stage turned out in MSYP livery but still embellished with its cast alloy lions:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/steve75c/4229114351/

 

Does anyone know anything about this?

 

Quite a well known period in Enterprise's life by now Adrian with several published photos including at least three in colour - not at all a mystery! Anyhoo... it was released from Swindon in maroon / small yellow panels with off white / grey window surrounds, black bufferbeam and it's origianl alloy crests on Thursday 8th October 1964 and carried this variant until called into Works again in the Spring of 1967. It emerged again on Friday 2nd June that year having been repainted into the 'standard' blue livery with full yellow ends, but without it's alloy crests ;)

 

(Also - see the first part of the 'Western Liveries' thread in the link below ;) )

Edited by Rugd1022
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