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Dapol 'Western'


Andy Y
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I had forgotten King from the rectangular vent batch.

 

As for wipers, didn't D1006 retain the relics of its experimental circular fittings?

 

Complicated, isn't it?

 

Geoff Endacott

 

Certainly is Geoff, yes!

 

D1006 kept a few gubbins from it's circular 'maritime' wiper, on the ledge beneth the driver's windscreen.

 

Who was it who said ''all diesels look alike''...?

 

;)

 

Edit : just remembered, D1046 was another which lost it's headboard clips at one end, when it ran through the catch points in Woodborough Loop back in '71, shortly after it had been released off overhaul at Swindon.

Edited by Rugd1022
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I have been checking through photos to complile a complete list of the clipless ones and now have D1025-29 (as built), D1005, D1040, D1046, D1049, D1065 and D1071. I also have a feeling that D1063 might be another one, but am rather short of photos of this particular machine.

 

Also, was D1000 withdrawn before getting the Talisman clips? I have a photo of it on the scrapline, but it isn't clear enough to be certain.

 

Geoff Endacott

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From diesels in depth

Minus clips one end 1005 B 24/7/67; 1040 A 24/4/64; 1046 B 25/11/71, 1049 B 21/7/69; 1063 B 11/11/63; 1065 A 21/8/72 and 1071 B 9/6/67.

Will have to deal with my D1040 then!

Pretty certain all the early casualties went before Talisman clips were fitted - most had gone by mid-1974 certainly in Swindon works by then awaiting cutters torch.

1000/2/4/7/17-20/24/32/38/39/42/60

Sadly I know this lot off by heart as I didn't see most of them - except 1007, 1017 and possibly 1032/8.

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The Dapol models comes with the 2 different types of batter clips. My blue fye has the later clips, the maroon syp has the earlier. So it shouldn't be necessary to modify, just get the one with the correct moulding . It doesn't seem to be a spare at the moment but who knows, it may be later.

 

Luke

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I am about to attempt to fit some Fox Transfers backlit headcodes to my Dapol Class 52 Western Sovereign.   If anyone has any tips on removing the cab assembly without damaging anything, please let me know!   There may have been some posts about this already but I don't fancy wading through 112 pages!

Edited by geoffwba
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If anyone has any tips on removing the cab assembly without damaging anything, please let me know! 

 

 

Undo the four screws holding the body to the frames.  If one is over-tight and can't be undone gentle persuasion once the others are out will result in that also coming free complete with its metal female sheath but without causing damage.

 

The headcode and cab assemblies are separate but must come out together.   Take care with the former as this unit is comprised of numerous fragile pieces stuck together.  If something does come apart it's easily put back later on.

 

Both parts come out with a little manipulation as they are only push-fitted.

 

Re-fit together as well since one will not go readily without the other.  Ensure the cab moulding is firmly and fully seated in its guide bosses and that the headcode panel is correctly in the apertures including the marker lights.

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Undo the four screws holding the body to the frames.  If one is over-tight and can't be undone gentle persuasion once the others are out will result in that also coming free complete with its metal female sheath but without causing damage.

 

The headcode and cab assemblies are separate but must come out together.   Take care with the former as this unit is comprised of numerous fragile pieces stuck together.  If something does come apart it's easily put back later on.

 

Both parts come out with a little manipulation as they are only push-fitted.

 

Re-fit together as well since one will not go readily without the other.  Ensure the cab moulding is firmly and fully seated in its guide bosses and that the headcode panel is correctly in the apertures including the marker lights.

Agree completely, cabs/headcodes on my msyp came out easily. Headcode assembly is held together by a length of black sticky tape and I found it easiest to pull  the clear headcode 3 sided boxes off this before adding headcodes. It reassembled ok. Need to be careful that the cab bulkheads seat into the groves inside the body correctly when putting it all back together.

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Agree completely, cabs/headcodes on my msyp came out easily. Headcode assembly is held together by a length of black sticky tape and I found it easiest to pull  the clear headcode 3 sided boxes off this before adding headcodes. It reassembled ok. Need to be careful that the cab bulkheads seat into the groves inside the body correctly when putting it all back together.

Be careful with the projecting light guides for the marker and tail lights. These can be easily snapped off if you're a bit unhandy, and spares for them are not yet available (although the central headcode lens box is available on its own from DCC Supplies)

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I have been checking through photos to complile a complete list of the clipless ones and now have D1025-29 (as built), D1005, D1040, D1046, D1049, D1065 and D1071. I also have a feeling that D1063 might be another one, but am rather short of photos of this particular machine.

 

Also, was D1000 withdrawn before getting the Talisman clips? I have a photo of it on the scrapline, but it isn't clear enough to be certain.

 

Geoff Endacott

 

D1000 went fairly early on in February '74 Geoff and as far as I can see from the few photos I have, it didn't have the post-Ealing battery box doro clips fitted. If it hadn't collided with a BRUTE trolley there's a good chance it might have been saved for the nation, as it had only been dual braked and fully overhauled just over a year previously.

 

Edit ; a heads up for Whizzo fans - D1015 is doing a loaded test run on 22nd August, Tyseley - Nuneaton - Leicester - Stenson Jcn - Burton-on-Trent - Water Orton - Tyseley, and the tour proper is on 7th September from Derby to Weymouth via a circular route (D1015 goes on the train at Brum New St).

Edited by Rugd1022
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Just doing a quick detailing job on a Lima Western, D1071 without headcode clips.

 

Benefits of working on the Lima ones is that they cost no more than £30 and you can get the bodies off:)  They are so basic and have many errors faults and a rubbish motor that actually works well if looked after but still make the Heljan and Dapol ones look perfect.

 

Would post some photos but don't know how:(

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Just doing a quick detailing job on a Lima Western, D1071 without headcode clips.

 

Benefits of working on the Lima ones is that they cost no more than £30 and you can get the bodies off:)  They are so basic and have many errors faults....

With the help of a Brassmasters detailing kit, those errors can mostly be rectified...

Edited by Horsetan
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Re the roof peak ventilators,

The following had them D1004, D1024, D1045 (A end only) and D1052 all fitted in the mid-1960s.

The way I work out the "A or B" end of my models is to locate the boiler exhaust port which is offset, and closest to the B end.

 

The best pic I've ever found of this mod is from Grahame Wareham (brushveteran) of D1052:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/59835095@N02/6294857077/in/set-72157628044475186

 

It's actually quite prominent.

 

As I mentioned earlier, the first casualties were either withdrawn prior to the West Ealing disaster or went before the workshops had chance to fit the yellow Talisman battery box clips (during 1974).

 

Neil

Edited by Downendian
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Edit ; a heads up for Whizzo fans - D1015 is doing a loaded test run on 22nd August, Tyseley - Nuneaton - Leicester - Stenson Jcn - Burton-on-Trent - Water Orton - Tyseley, and the tour proper is on 7th September from Derby to Weymouth via a circular route (D1015 goes on the train at Brum New St).

See it was outside the new FGW shed building in the middle of OOC today. Shame it's maroon and not blue though.

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I'm told it's next repaint is due to be into blue / full yellow ends mate. Can't wait...!

 

D1015 in blue with FYE? Nice! Think I'll get the plates for D1015 from Shawplan for one of my as yet un-named and un-numbered blue Dapol Westerns!

Edited by southernelectric
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