DLT's NG Workbench - Back to The Hunslets

[DLT]

On 22/08/2014 at 10:24, Fettster42 said:

Love the rolling stock, what are you using for chassis?

Hi Fettster,

A while ago you asked about my wagon chassis methods, and I have at last got a photo sequence together..

When I started I used 4mm SG parts, as that was all that was available, but over the years I've evolved this the current method.

 

As I like to be able to solder the chassis parts together, I build the functional bits of the chassis seperately on a rectangle of circuit board.  

This means I have a standard chassis that can be fixed under any wagon, whether the body is made of whitemetal, wood, or plastic.

I solder the legs in place to begin with, then with careful marking out and drilling of the holes for axle bearings, you achieve consistant reliability of ride height, parallel axles etc.  Coupling mounts are added at this stage, as again you achive predictable and consistant height and centre.

The whitemetal axleguards are by Dorset Kits from their Welshpool & Llanfair range (they are happy to supply individual parts) glued to the outside of the bearing holders.

I hope the photo sequence is self explanatory!

 

 

 

 

When the assembly is complete, it fits into the rectangular recess in the underframe formed by the solebars and the headstocks.

Slots are filed in the headstocks to accomodate the couplings.

If you are careful (or lucky) this can be a good push-fit, or if its loose a couple of blobs of Blue-Tac can be pressed in to hold it down.

 

 

This may seem unnecessarily complicated, but I assure you it isn't; and it compares very favourably with trying to glue the axleguards to the solebars and trapping the wheels in place simultaneously; all the while hoping that the spacing is correct, and that the wagon will sit level and not wobble.  And then trying to fit couplings to a standard height with the wagon upside down, etc, etc.....

 

Hope this is of interest!

Dave.

Edited September 8, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

Another chassis I've used is the Peco OR40 Plastic Wagon Chassis Kit:  http://www.peco-uk.com/product.asp?strParents=3309,3316&CAT_ID=3318&P_ID=17187

When I upgraded some old wood vans (built originally on 4mm SG chassis) it turned out that the Peco kit was exactly the right size!  All I had to do was secure them to the body.

The brake lever is my own brass construction, as the plastic one in the kit is a bit on the hefty side.

 

 

 

The result is very pleasing

 

One point about this chassis, you need to be careful with the spacing of the solebars.  The kit now comes with metal wheels with a slightly longer axle than the original plastic wheelset.  You need widen the spacing between the solebars to accommodate this.  The solebars locate between pips on the underside, I filed away about half the thickness of the outer pips, which gave just about the right amount of extra width.  

These kits are a doddle to assemble, and being plastic, lend themselves to all sorts of straightforward conversion possibilities.

 

The van itself was built from a limited edition "craftsman" style kit in stripwood & sheet, lovingly manufactured by "Narrowcraft" many years ago and sold through The 7mm Narrow Gauge Association

 

Hope this is of interest,

Dave.

Edited September 8, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

A bit more of my occasional progress with the convertible van; metalwork has been added from black plasticard, grey paint applied, and now all the boltheads etc need to be applied from tiny cubes of microstrip.

 

Some of the plasticard work looks pretty rough in this cruel closeup, but its not so obvious at normal size.

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 8, 2022 by DLT

[Donw]

I like the chassis Idea Dave  When working in EM is used the Colin Waite W irons and always felt the ability to adjust the endplay made more difference than the rocking suspension. You system would work a treat.

Don

[Fettster42]

Thanks Dave. I may need to try building my own chassis. Built bodies I like, but based on 00 chasis as a cheap starter and now convinved was false economy as they just don't look right.

 

Leigh (a.k.a Fettster)

[DLT]

Boltheads applied and painted last night, so all paint is thoroughly dry before applying the lettering.

Transfers are by Pete Blackham; he supplied me a sheet to order, with I hope, all the insignier I will need.

Matt varnish has been brushed over, and once its completely dry I'll add a touch of weathering to tone down the brilliant white lettering.

 

 

Lettering doesn't look quit right on the second one, maybe the initials need to be higher.

 

Cheers,

Dave.

Edited September 8, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

While the van is waiting for its final weathering, I've been taking a good look at my one-and-only cattle van.

A somewhat generic design it bears little resemblance to any cattle van living or dead.  I built it with a full height drop-ramp which is actaully quite unusual.

Like several of my wagons it was only finished on one side, so I'm fitting more realistic doors and ramp on the other side.

 

Side one, as built several years ago

 

Side two with new door and ramp detail being fitted

 

Hopefully looking a bit more typical now, but most of the detail is based on Tralee & Dingle practice.

 

Cheers,

Dave.

Edited September 8, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

Another update on what seems painfully slow progress on the wagon front.

The convertible van is pretty much finished.   A bit more metalwork needs to be added, plus a long bolt-rod for the door, but I think it looks the part.  The other side is not yet finished.

 

The cattle van is coming on nicely, this photo shows one side partially "nutted up" with small cubes of plasticard.  The 'orrible close-up makes the whole thing look a right mess, but its much better at normal size.  A dob of black paint on the nuts and then an overall coat of matt varnish will finish it off well.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 8, 2022 by DLT

[Donw]

The white nuts look like some bizzare Railway bling. Wouldn't it be better to use black plastic for the nuts or is it easier to position them when they show up so much. Considering that photo shows it about the size of 16mm wagons it looks very neat.

Don

[DLT]

Hi Don,

 

I quite agree, but they're white so that I can see the damn things when I'm trying to pick them up and position them! 

Also they are cut from the end of a length of microstrip and I don't think you can get it in black.

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 26, 2014 by DLT

[PaulRhB]

A somewhat generic design it bears little resemblance to any cattle van living or dead. I built it with a full height drop-ramp which is actaully quite unusual.

 

Hadn't noticed the type of door before. The smaller drop ramp would always require a loading dock or I suppose it could directly link to a farmers lorry in later years?

I'd guess full drop doors were unusual as it would be rather dangerous on the side if it dropped while moving and might derail the van or rip out something on the lineside. Amazing what you notice when you look again.

Looks good in either style though

Edited September 26, 2014 by PaulRhB

[DLT]

Thanks Paul,

In fact one line that DID have full height drop-ramps was the W&L; but they were pretty minimal in their lineside facilities.

 

Lettering was applied this evening, courtesy of Mr.Blackham, and all brushed over with a coat of Humbrol matt-varnish.

I will leave it a good twenty-four hours before I attempt any weathering.

 

And then I suppose I can call them finished.  

 

Right, so whats the next job....

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 8, 2022 by DLT

[Mike Bellamy]

 

The First World War 2-foot gauge Baldwin Gas Mechanical (or petrol tractor if you prefer) was built in quantity for the American trench railways, and many were available secondhand after the war.  Col. Stephens acquired one for the Festiniog, named Moelwyn and much altered it still runs today.

The 7mm scale kit from Neil Sayer  http://www.neilsayer.co.uk/ features etched brass and nickel silver, cast resin and brass, and looks to be of excellent quality.  Its a complete kit, including wheels, motor and custom gearbox.

.

 

 

There is now another Baldwin under construction - see here

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1344/entry-15228-bgm-4-short/

 

 

 

.

[DLT]

There is now another Baldwin under construction - see here

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1344/entry-15228-bgm-4-short/

Thanks very much Mike, I hadnt seen that.  

I will try to keep up it, although I find the blogs awkward to follow and rarely look at them.  

 

All the best,

Dave.

Edited November 28, 2014 by DLT

[Mike Bellamy]

I find the blogs awkward to follow and rarely look at them.

I know what you mean and this is the only one I follow - if you have time look back at the other stock and the layout - should keep you occupied for an hour or two reading that !

 

 

.

[2ManySpams]

Dave, I'm told you have a cunning method for making loco brake gear removable. I've had a quick scan through a couple of your threads but nothing jumps out at me. Could you give me a pointer to where you've covered it before please. Many thanks

 

Ps (it's for my O2 build)

[DLT]

Dave, I'm told you have a cunning method for making loco brake gear removable. I've had a quick scan through a couple of your threads but nothing jumps out at me. Could you give me a pointer to where you've covered it before please. Many thanks

 

Ps (it's for my O2 build)

Hi Chris,

There's no great secret to it, but I'll dry and locate the appropriate bits.

Its all my 4mm Workbench thread, so I will reply there.

Cheers,

Dave.

[Harrogate009]

Dave, are there any other stations (Other than Bridport and Charmouth) in Marshwood Vale that this line runs through?

 

 

[DLT]

Dave, are there any other stations (Other than Bridport and Charmouth) in Marshwood Vale that this line runs through?

 

 

In my fevered imagination yes, but actually in plywood and polystyrene no, not yet!

Although there have been (and will continue to be) many variations, the "standard" route for the MVR takes it through Symondsbury, Broadoak (for Filford and Moorbath), Shave Cross (for Bluntshay and Pilsdon), and Whitchurch Cannonicorum.  I really want there to be a halt at a place called Cutty Stubbs, but I can't really justify it.  Maybe just a goods siding.

Or I could get all expansionist and propose a Northern extension via the Blackwater Valley with stations at Marshwood & Bettiscombe, Hawkchurch, and Holditch Halt to meet up with the South Western mainline at Chard Junction (or thereabouts)

So plenty of opportunity for flights of fancy!

Cheers, Dave.

Edited April 11, 2015 by DLT

[Donw]

The standard gauge interchange would be interesting trouble is your standard gauge locos are 4mm so you couldn't use them. I have always fancied building a whole series of small layouts which could be assembled to model a whole line if I could find or hire the space.

 

Don

[Harrogate009]

In my fevered imagination yes, but actually in plywood and polystyrene no, not yet!

Although there have been (and will continue to be) many variations, the "standard" route for the MVR takes it through Symondsbury, Broadoak (for Filford and Moorbath), Shave Cross (for Bluntshay and Pilsdon), and Whitchurch Cannonicorum.  I really want there to be a halt at a place called Cutty Stubbs, but I can't really justify it.  Maybe just a goods siding.

Or I could get all expansionist and propose a Northern extension via the Blackwater Valley with stations at Marshwood & Bettiscombe, Hawkchurch, and Holditch Halt to meet up with the South Western mainline at Chard Junction (or thereabouts)

So plenty of opportunity for flights of fancy!

Cheers, Dave.

 

Hawkchurch is beautiful and we'd love to see a model of that  . Or a line weaving around Lambert's Castle for Mashwood  .

 

 

Holditch and Hawkchurch are opposite sides of the valley and, presumably, being on the Holditch side, passenger would have to walk to Hawkchruch. It's not the best of tracks going up to Hawkchurch (Going down is alright)(Believe me, I've cycled more times than I care to remember), so perhaps and upgrade of the track would be needed along this route  .

 

 

As for Cutty Stubbs, how about some connection to Blackmore Farm?

 

Edited April 12, 2015 by Harrogate009

[DLT]

Just checking over these vans for the Club Competition later this week, and realised I never put any finished photos up, so here's a set.

 

 

 

 

Yes, I know they are still lacking brakegear, and the couplings look awful when blown up so big.  I must give Zamzoodled a try.

 

Cheers,

Dave.

Edited September 8, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

My original Hunslet 2-6-2 Boadicea (my first scratchbuild) is now over 30 years old and decidedly looking her age.  Being built mainly of plasticard, bits of the bodywork are falling off as the material become increasingly brittle.  the plan is to build two more Hunslets and give Bo a well-earned retirement.  However that project has still not begun, so she is getting a bit of a facelift  to keep her going.  

She still runs beautifully though, on her original Romford wheels with an early Portescap RG4 motor/gearbox unit.  Axle bearings are decidedly worn and loose though.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 8, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

I had never been entirely happy with the smokebox area on this loco, being a little bit TOO freelance.  So in an attempt to make it bit more Hunslet-like, its getting a rehash, first job is a new smokebox wrapper.

A strip of nickel-silver, riveted along both edges and curved to shape (with much trial and error) and araldited in place.

I was careful to mark-out and drill the holes for the handrail knobs so that they matched the existing holes first.

 

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 8, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

I've made a new set of outside frames, from of all things, 40thou black plasticard.  This loco was built using the Romford OF system, where you have a conventional Inside-Frame, cranks etc mounted on extended axles, and a cosmetic outside-frame that fits over the chassis, with slots for the axle extensions.  

I know some modellers don't like this method, as its "wrong", but it does have certain advantages.  Of course the Romford system only works for 16.5 (or other gauges Romford/Markits supply axles for)

Don't get me wrong, I've built locos with "proper" outside frames, and both methods have their pros & cons.

 

And here are the remains of the original outside-frames, practically falling to bits.

 

Also added the tops of the frames where they appear above the footplate, from 20thou plasticard.

 

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 8, 2022 by DLT