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QUAI:87


Brian Harrap
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Ultimate restricted space modelling!

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Makes for interesting shunting!

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The 'timbering' John has kindly shown us on the 'slip' is only the foundation work to support the tiling grout road surface finish. I don't have a picture to show it but each segment is carefully and individually masked with sellotape to prevent grout fouling where the blades need to move, and of course any workings underneath. Quite a fiddly job doing one section at a time and then re masking for the next section, as going over the whole lot in one go will lead to disaster - guess how I know. Still to be done is the even more fiddly work of creating a type of fill for the flangeways where the blades slide across and to stop those awful c-clad sleepers showing like they do. I am currently looking for a 3D Photoshop program to facilitate this. Cobbles anyone. Bpost-5773-0-38343800-1513443844_thumb.jpg

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Brian, a suggestion if I may. When I build inset track (as opposed to using flexitrack) I have in the past allowed for the camouflaging of the pcb sleepers by interspersing them with card infill of the same thickness before soldering the rail to them. The easy way of doing this is to lay pcb sleeper, card infill, pcb sleeper, card infill, pcb sleeper .... and so on. Doing it this way means that all the separate bits get to snuggle up close without needing to be hyper precise in the sizing. I've seen people describing sliding card infill sections into ready spaced sleepers and all the faff that results from it. However it may be still possible to get a simple-ish decent result if the pcb has to go down first with pairs of wedge shaped card infills where any variation from standard would be taken up  by the action of the opposing wedges sliding together. 

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Brian, a suggestion if I may. When I build inset track (as opposed to using flexitrack) I have in the past allowed for the camouflaging of the pcb sleepers by interspersing them with card infill of the same thickness before soldering the rail to them. The easy way of doing this is to lay pcb sleeper, card infill, pcb sleeper, card infill, pcb sleeper .... and so on. Doing it this way means that all the separate bits get to snuggle up close without needing to be hyper precise in the sizing. I've seen people describing sliding card infill sections into ready spaced sleepers and all the faff that results from it. However it may be still possible to get a simple-ish decent result if the pcb has to go down first with pairs of wedge shaped card infills where any variation from standard would be taken up  by the action of the opposing wedges sliding together. 

Hello Neil,

 

Thank you for your ideas on the infilled flangeway business. Whilst your suggestions, regarding card strips etc, are perfectly good and feasable, its not the plain track that is any trouble for me as I have always gone down the road of filling the flangeway gap to just below flange depth with either grout, Milliput, Fimo or similar which hides all sorts of sins and results in a finished appearance I quite like.

Its the particular area where the blades slide across that I have difficulty with. Mainly my own fault because of the (cheapskate) method I use - simply using a pcb throwbar which, as I use hinged blades (the only style that will fit snugly against the check or guard rail in this area) moves in a radial manner precluding the use of any spacer type infill. Still work in progress here . Other means of moving the blades are available of course but there's always a need to consider inevitable repairs at a later date which may involve digging the road up.

Thank you for your interest, 

Happy modelling in the New Year.

B

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Thanks for the explanation Brian, I have a much clearer understanding of the issue but unfortunately no bright ideas as yet. However on the subject of wacky track you might be interested in these shots of the riverside in Antwerp.

Thanks for the Antwerp pics Neil, I was on that very riverside some years ago now. I wasn't aware of a traverser being there, though but I do recall the rather large stone setts - very bumpy to drive over.

Best, B

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Brian, probably a bit late now you've plastered the lot, but the tramway guys have the same problem with track and solved it by using a solid PCB instead of strips. This is a good resource to start you off: http://www.modelltram.de

 

HTH!

D'y'know that's something I hadn't thought of. I shall probably develop the idea - I don't have any more trackbuilding projects on the horizon just now so it's something I shall have to do on the 'test bench'. Tram site was interesting although I think tram track modelling in any scale definitely benefits from 'P' standards from the appearance point of view. Not being contentious, it just does. B

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D'y'know that's something I hadn't thought of. I shall probably develop the idea - I don't have any more trackbuilding projects on the horizon just now so it's something I shall have to do on the 'test bench'. Tram site was interesting although I think tram track modelling in any scale definitely benefits from 'P' standards from the appearance point of view. Not being contentious, it just does. B

Brian as a regular reader of your thread (and picked up many ideas and tip, thanks!) I couldn’t agree more, hope you don’t mind the pic but this is my first attempt at something ‘finer’ in tram track. EM fabricated girder rail using code 75 bullhead with 0.8mm square strip and 1.9mm x 0.25 strip soldered inside. Road surface is Knauf easy plaster.

 

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Edited by Red Devil
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Brian as a regular reader of your thread (and picked up many ideas and tip, thanks!) I couldn’t agree more, hope you don’t mind the pic but this is my first attempt at something ‘finer’ in tram track. EM fabricated girder rail using code 75 bullhead with 0.8mm square strip and 1.9mm x 0.25 strip soldered inside. Road surface is Knauf easy plaster.

 

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Hello Red, now that's something like it, looks like you don't need me anymore - excellent bit of work, cobbles/sets look great. Pleased that at last proper inset track (finer gaps,filled depth) is being taken seriously more these days. I take it the 0.8 mm strip you used was to create the flangeway gap. May I look forward to seeing more of you work?

Baron

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Hello Red, now that's something like it, looks like you don't need me anymore - excellent bit of work, cobbles/sets look great. Pleased that at last proper inset track (finer gaps,filled depth) is being taken seriously more these days. I take it the 0.8 mm strip you used was to create the flangeway gap. May I look forward to seeing more of you work?

Baron

Thanks Brian, I'm still an amateur compared with you! But if you don't try you don't find out either if you can or if it works.

 

Yep, the 0.8mm bar provides the gap and the bottom of the 'girder rail'. I've done a very rough (very, very rough!) trial of something similar in 'P something or other HO', I'd never claim it anywhere near scale as I think the flange gap would be around 0.4mm I think, but it tightens it down a bit more.

 

It uses the Peco code 55 rail which has the extra foot bit at the bottom which makes it code 80 in reality...soldered in 0.7mm sq n/s bar into the foot, then a 1.9 strip up against that, in reality it needs 2mm strip but I didn't have any to hand.

 

First trial, like I say rough!

 

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Cheers, Mark.

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Thanks Brian, I'm still an amateur compared with you! But if you don't try you don't find out either if you can or if it works.

 

Yep, the 0.8mm bar provides the gap and the bottom of the 'girder rail'. I've done a very rough (very, very rough!) trial of something similar in 'P something or other HO', I'd never claim it anywhere near scale as I think the flange gap would be around 0.4mm I think, but it tightens it down a bit more.

 

It uses the Peco code 55 rail which has the extra foot bit at the bottom which makes it code 80 in reality...soldered in 0.7mm sq n/s bar into the foot, then a 1.9 strip up against that, in reality it needs 2mm strip but I didn't have any to hand.

 

First trial, like I say rough!

 

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Cheers, Mark.

Hello Mark. thanks for that. not to worry about it looking a bit rough at the construction stage, most of mine looks like this before its all covered up with paving - that's one of the advantages of infilled trackwork. And it's what the finished work looks like is what counts. 

Keep up the good work.

Baron

 

Ps Howya gonna deal with the wheels for HO trams, if that's what you plan to do? B.

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The P87 stores offers an alternative route to paved track.

http://www.proto87.com/Paved_industrial_or_dockside_track.html

and

http://www.proto87.com/Street_track_for_trolleys_and_trams.html

Not that I've tried it :mellow:

Regards

I have, whilst ok I didn't particularly like the sectional approach, certain parts end up looking bitty and to a degree you're contrained to what's made rather than what you want to make.

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Ps Howya gonna deal with the wheels for HO trams, if that's what you plan to do? B.

 

More than likely P4 wheelsets set at HO btb, something along those lines. I did see a scale 4mm tram wheel once and it scared me! They're thinner and have a smaller flange than your average P4 wheel due to the different real wheel profiles.

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  • 1 month later...

Old dog - old tricks - old habits.

 

I never ever use the cut out card or embossed plasticard method for roadway surfaces on any of my paved/inset trackwork. It just doesn't look right to me and it never, however carefully done, snuggles up just so against the railhead. That's why I don't believe what I've just done. You see Scaleforum is fast approaching and I'd like to take, what has become known locally as 'Sentinel Street', (not keen on that name - sounds too British -  but since the layout is based in the UK I suppose I shall have to live with it) to said Scaleforum this coming September. I never work to deadlines either, my whole world is falling apart.

 

So I thought I'd take a short cut. Tracks on my layouts that go into or through buildings, hitherto, got the full paving treatment even though they are hardly visible more than a couple of inches in, (inches not centimeters, it's a British layout remember). The 'I know it's there syndrome'.

 

So I have this building with a dead straight track entering. Sodde it, I'll just cut out some card strips to speed things up a bit, no one will notice. It's not too bad if I don't think about it too much, but I caught myself out by not remembering what I'm about.

 

I merrily cut a strip 16.6mm wide to fit between the rails (from inside web to inside web) as I would have done if ever attempting this shortcut on QUAI:87 (which I wouldn't). It was too narrow, ruler shrunk in the cold? Do another a bit wider - still not wide enough, what's going on? After the third strip it dawned on me that as this layout is located in the UK the track gauge is 18.83. The fourth strip turned out the right width.

 

So has the shortcut saved me any time? I rather doubt it. See if you can spot the difference at S4um, I think you probably will.

 

Baron.

 

 

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