Kirkby Luneside (Original): End of the line....

[Andrew P]

GOOD LUCK, I think it will be quicker for me just to build 2 more layouts and PLAY TRAINS, hhahaaaaahheeeeee

 

Bodgit again

[robmcg]

Btw.... I was looking through the Bachmann 2013/14 catalogue to check details of the class 40 and 4F. Found a little beauty, due later this year....

 

Jubilee "Victoria". Shedded at Leeds Holbeck for most of the 1950s and did at least one railtour - in 1966 - on the S&C. Late crest, weathered. 

 

So I'll add that to the list....

 

Jeff

 

Now that looks like a prospect for a photo...!   Do you know if 'Victoria' 45565  b 8/34 NB w/d 7/66 had a Fowler or Stanier tender, also was it 5 or 6 hole firebox?  I have in mind buying a suitable weathered Jubilee and am tending towards 45593 Kolhapur (Stanier tender) or 45587 Baroda (Fowler tender) as donor... 

 

I live in permanent readiness for the reaction I often get in RMweb for my pictures, 'lovely picture Rob, but......'  ( there follows a polite dissertation on number of rivets on rain-shield above driver's window...)

 

Rob

Edited May 7, 2013 by robmcg

[Physicsman]

Rob - I can tell you that "Victoria" has a Stanier tender, but no idea about the firebox.

 

She's a weathered model and is perfect to add to my KL roster.

 

And I wouldn't worry about getting any adverse reaction to your photos. Anyone who criticises should try your art for themselves!

 

Jeff

[robmcg]

Ta, a fast reaction like that is why Britain is the world's foremost political and economic power...

[Physicsman]

Ta, a fast reaction like that is why Britain is the world's foremost political and economic power...

 

.... at tiddleywinks, maybe!!

 

Now if we only had men of the calibre of Brunel, Gresley and Stephenson these days....

 

We're still quite good at some things....

 

Jeff

[robmcg]

It'll be TMC weathering. Grosmont. Centre of the known world.

 

edit.  ah, no, the true orbital centre is somewhere on Main Road Guildford Surrey

 

 

which allows me to offer this pic of a work-stained Maunsell Schools class with Ramsgate headcode in a locale which more resembles Dorchester or Bournemouth than Folkestone..  perhaps an empty carriage working, returning a stock from a special from the Midlands...

 

Very wise of you Jeff to model a specific location...

 

 

off to photograph a 'King Arthur' N15 now.

 

Rob

 

 

Edited May 7, 2013 by robmcg

[Physicsman]

It'll be TMC weathering. Grosmont. Centre of the known world.

 

 

 

Rob - I agree. TMC is an excellent modelling supplier - just up the road from Grosmont.

 

I've seen some of their weathered models and I'm impressed. Do you use them a lot?

 

Jeff

[Chipster]

Hi Jeff

 

"I do indeed know J38 very well. I'm wondering if the "Toy Factory" that is signed at the Tebay junction is near Orton?"

 

"Toy Factory"?? 

 

From what I'm lead to believe it's actually one man making wooden toys in his garage/workshop, hardly what I'd call a factory!!

 

When you next come off the motorway @ J38 on your way home, approx 1 mile up the A685 take your 2nd left and follow the "old" road and you will go through a hamlet called "Kelleth", that's where the 'factory' is. Carry on along that road & you will come back to the A685 @ Newbiggin on Lune. Kelleth is roughly 3 miles from Orton.

 

 

"even if it is often cloudy in Cumbria."

 

 

Only 364 days a year on average!!

 

We had summer yesterday, more wet stuff today.

 

so it's back to "Lurking Lune" in this weather.

Edited May 8, 2013 by Chipster

[Physicsman]

Chip - thanks for the enlightenment!

 

I'll make a detour off the A685 next time I'm heading over and have a look at your village.

 

And yes, cloudy here today. And another day of no modelling - yet. It's the exam season and I'm helping a few people. May get some bridge work done this evening.

 

Jeff

[robmcg]

Rob - I agree. TMC is an excellent modelling supplier - just up the road from Grosmont.

 

I've seen some of their weathered models and I'm impressed. Do you use them a lot?

 

Jeff

 

Morning Jeff,

 

I have recently bought several weathered models off TMC...   a brother bought a couple of weathered Hornby model off them a couple of years ago, a Spam Can and a Britannia, which I only got to look at recently (and photograph), and they were very good.

 

I have tried my own weathering with a brush and various techniques and can get fair results, but they never look quite so good with the camera, so with Sterling being relatively weak compared to NZ currency, and RTR 00 going up in price in the UK I thought to invest a bit in some purchases, a four figure sum in pounds. I bought one or two from TMC and they were very fast, polite, and above all very talented with their work. Having assured myself that they were good, I have bought 8 or 9 engines, all large mostly green BR... but yesterday a crimson LMS Baby Scot lightly weathered.

 

As to their craftsmanship, I cannot speak too highly of them. We know how fragile modern RTR models are, and how often things fall off, or don't run right, well of course just taking a model out of its packing can be dangerous. They absorb all these risks and still charge less than RRP for the base model.  They do a lot of 'passes' of very fine grime, generally very well aimed. A bit heavy on rusty colour around rods and motion but then that can be touched up to be like grease and shiny metal. Brake shoes are generally individually coloured, soot over smokebox, rust near water filler caps, tender insides/coal dust, track grime, all done very very well.  Medium and heavy weathering get a degree of water-staining on boilers, firebox etc.

 

After a few models bought, I tend to medium weathering for standard late BR grime, light weathering for such as Cardiff Canton Castles or Stanier Duchesses or A4s, heavy weathering really is heavy...  late BR Standards.

 

I sometimes receive a model in NZ less thana week after ordering, if it is a version 'off the shelf'.

 

So yes, I like TMC. Of course their work doesn't suit some critics...     which rather makes me admire them all the more! (having been a trader in my hand-made furniture in years gone by)

 

Rob

Edited May 8, 2013 by robmcg

[Physicsman]

Hi Rob.

 

I've been in touch with TMC today with regard to a weathered DCC sound "Clive of India" Britannia. Only £17 more than my usual supplier, with weathering added in - so I thought pretty good value (haven't ordered one yet).

 

We'll see what happens - I'll let you know. Ironic that you mentioned them when they were almost literally on my doorstep!

 

Jeff

[Andrew P]

Morning Jeff,

 

I have recently bought several weathered models off TMC...   a brother bought a couple of weathered Hornby model off them a couple of years ago, a Spam Can and a Britannia, which I only got to look at recently (and photograph), and they were very good.

 

I have tried my own weathering with a brush and various techniques and can get fair results, but they never look quite so good with the camera, so with Sterling being relatively weak compared to NZ currency, and RTR 00 going up in price in the UK I thought to invest a bit in some purchases, a four figure sum in pounds. I bought one or two from TMC and they were very fast, polite, and above all very talented with their work. Having assured myself that they were good, I have bought 8 or 9 engines, all large mostly green BR... but yesterday a crimson LMS Baby Scot lightly weathered.

 

As to their craftsmanship, I cannot speak too highly of them. We know how fragile modern RTR models are, and how often things fall off, or don't run right, well of course just taking a model out of its packing can be dangerous. They absorb all these risks and still charge less than RRP for the base model.  They do a lot of 'passes' of very fine grime, generally very well aimed. A bit heavy on rusty colour around rods and motion but then that can be touched up to be like grease and shiny metal. Brake shoes are generally individually coloured, soot over smokebox, rust near water filler caps, tender insides/coal dust, track grime, all done very very well.  Medium and heavy weathering get a degree of water-staining on boilers, firebox etc.

 

After a few models bought, I tend to medium weathering for standard late BR grime, light weathering for such as Cardiff Canton Castles or Stanier Duchesses or A4s, heavy weathering really is heavy...  late BR Standards.

 

I sometimes receive a model in NZ less thana week after ordering, if it is a version 'off the shelf'.

 

So yes, I like TMC. Of course their work doesn't suit some critics...     which rather makes me admire them all the more! (having been a trader in my hand-made furniture in years gone by)

 

Rob

Hi, I had their N Gauge 37 for my Glenfinick project, I stipulated LIGHT WEATHERING and it is wonderful, and dare I say this in public, but it is even better than I could do. hhahaaaa

 

Bodgit

[Physicsman]

Update: Not a scrap of modelling done today due to loads of other commitments. 

 

A short time ago that would have irked me, but I'm now taking a more relaxed view of things. Tomorrow looks to be a quieter day, and with cr*p weather forecast there's no excuse not to do some modelling!

 

I think I'll make a jig so I can start "manufacturing" stone blocks for the walling.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Hi, I had their N Gauge 37 for my Glenfinick project, I stipulated LIGHT WEATHERING and it is wonderful, and dare I say this in public, but it is even better than I could do. hhahaaaa

 

Bodgit

 

Andy - following Rob's recommendation yesterday - I've looked at a lot of examples of their work. It suits my needs and the Brit (good as it is with sound) looks superbly weathered.

 

I think my credit card will be flexing next week!

 

Jeff

[Andrew P]

Andy - following Rob's recommendation yesterday - I've looked at a lot of examples of their work. It suits my needs and the Brit (good as it is with sound) looks superbly weathered.

 

I think my credit card will be flexing next week!

 

Jeff

NEXT WEEK

 

NEXT WEEK JEFF   ?

 

THERE IS NO TIME LIKE THE PRESENT :no: :no:

 

Bodgit

[Donw]

The bridges look good Jeff. At £17 pound extra for a weathered one it is a no brainer. Unless you really enjoy painting.

Don

[Physicsman]

The bridges look good Jeff. At £17 pound extra for a weathered one it is a no brainer. Unless you really enjoy painting.

Don

 

I quite agree Don. I may sound like a "wuss" but I don't think I could ever bring myself to attempt to paint a new loco. There's plenty of other things to get on with - so I'm happy to pay an accomplished artist a few quid to do the job.

 

That's not to say I won't get an airbrush and have a go at weathering wagons and the odd ancient loco or so!

 

Andy: I'm delaying for a few reasons - I'm sorely tempted to order two Brits..... 

 

Jeff

[southern42]

Bridges looking good on the layout, Jeff and I do like the sound of new engines in the pipeline.

I'm not averse to Northern locos living in LNWR/LMS territory.  Anyway, locos are locos...ummm....er.....I think...

 

Think I'd agree with you as far as weathering goes.  Locos  0    Wagons  1   - well, half of one.  Still got to finish it off. 

My Grimy Times 9F looks grand - not sure I'd want to risk doing it myself, though.

I've done some weathering on Avago with more to do but not as off putting as the wheeled stuff.

 

Hope you get some more bunker stuff going soon...

 

Polly

[Jason T]

Never say never Jeff. Problem is, you can get the layout and scenery looking fantastic but a shiny 4F, 9F, in fact any loco pulling a rake of shiny wagons or coaches will ruin the illusion of reality in a second. Any loco struggling over the Long Drag and through the various tunnels would not be clean for very long, even ex-works.

 

The vast majority of my wagons are weathered with a paintbrush and enamels / thinners and even the lightest pass improves the looks no end. As for locos, yes it is daunting at first but it depends on how you tackle it really. Plus, make a mistake and you can always remove the paint afterwards, as I did with the 2MT years after the first attempt. Maybe, rather than spend a fair bit on the weathered Brits, you could buy a bargain bucket loco from a cheap Hornby trainset (a Smoky Joe type one for about a tenner), an airbrush and compressor, a big bottle of white spirit, some cotton buds and three tins of Humbrol enamel (Matt black, leather and metalcote gunmetal) and practice. In the long run, it would be money better spent.

 

I have an Iwata Neo and decent compressor with a moisture trap. The Neo isn't to everyone's liking but it is dual action which means that you can control both the airflow and more importantly, the amount of paint. When I am up North, I am more than happy to bring it round and show you the basics from my limited experience. I think you will find it easier and less daunting than you think.

[Donw]

Its all down to enjoying your hobby and doing the bits you get the most out of and buying in weathered locos may make sense. A friend of mine built a US style layout. With dual gauge track all hand laid scratchbuilt buildings and fully scenic. But because he had bought US brass locos some people were rather sniffy and accused him of chequebook modelling! Probably people who had never actually built a layout.

Don

[Physicsman]

A good discussion to cover the lack of "layout action".....

 

I'd love to be proficient at weathering my rolling stock and I'm not the least bit concerned about "ruining" a £10 wagon. So Jason, I'll certainly take you up on your offer of a bit of "tuition". Btw, are you using thinned down enamels in the airbrush? I've only seen people using airbrushes with acrylics, to date.

 

In the meantime I'll proceed to buy my Brit. I wanted the sound model anyway and, relatively speaking, at the price it's a giveaway.

 

Jeff

[Andrew P]

Never say never Jeff. Problem is, you can get the layout and scenery looking fantastic but a shiny 4F, 9F, in fact any loco pulling a rake of shiny wagons or coaches will ruin the illusion of reality in a second. Any loco struggling over the Long Drag and through the various tunnels would not be clean for very long, even ex-works.

 

The vast majority of my wagons are weathered with a paintbrush and enamels / thinners and even the lightest pass improves the looks no end. As for locos, yes it is daunting at first but it depends on how you tackle it really. Plus, make a mistake and you can always remove the paint afterwards, as I did with the 2MT years after the first attempt. Maybe, rather than spend a fair bit on the weathered Brits, you could buy a bargain bucket loco from a cheap Hornby trainset (a Smoky Joe type one for about a tenner), an airbrush and compressor, a big bottle of white spirit, some cotton buds and three tins of Humbrol enamel (Matt black, leather and metalcote gunmetal) and practice. In the long run, it would be money better spent.

 

I have an Iwata Neo and decent compressor with a moisture trap. The Neo isn't to everyone's liking but it is dual action which means that you can control both the airflow and more importantly, the amount of paint. When I am up North, I am more than happy to bring it round and show you the basics from my limited experience. I think you will find it easier and less daunting than you think.

You are SPOT ON Jason, the moment you  add something that is NOT out of the box it stops becoming a train set and EVERYTHING needs toning down and highlighting.

 

Jason says about the Neo and it is a great tool, mine came from Everything Airbrush and is the same as a Neo and came complete with a Baby Elephant Compressor for just a tadge over FIFTY QUID inc postage and it has done everything I need it to do.

 

Again as Jason quite rightly says, NEVER SAY NEVER.

 

Just Bodgit

Edited May 9, 2013 by Andrew P

[jukebox]

Never say never Jeff. Problem is, you can get the layout and scenery looking fantastic but a shiny 4F, 9F, in fact any loco pulling a rake of shiny wagons or coaches will ruin the illusion of reality in a second. Any loco struggling over the Long Drag and through the various tunnels would not be clean for very long, even ex-works.

The vast majority of my wagons are weathered with a paintbrush and enamels / thinners and even the lightest pass improves the looks no end. As for locos, yes it is daunting at first but it depends on how you tackle it really. Plus, make a mistake and you can always remove the paint afterwards, as I did with the 2MT years after the first attempt. Maybe, rather than spend a fair bit on the weathered Brits, you could buy a bargain bucket loco from a cheap Hornby trainset (a Smoky Joe type one for about a tenner), an airbrush and compressor, a big bottle of white spirit, some cotton buds and three tins of Humbrol enamel (Matt black, leather and metalcote gunmetal) and practice. In the long run, it would be money better spent.

I have an Iwata Neo and decent compressor with a moisture trap. The Neo isn't to everyone's liking but it is dual action which means that you can control both the airflow and more importantly, the amount of paint. When I am up North, I am more than happy to bring it round and show you the basics from my limited experience. I think you will find it easier and less daunting than you think.

I wish there was a "double like" button, just for this post, Jason. It really sums up well the way to take that giant leap of faith that is needed. The only other thing I would add, is that even when you do think you are ready to tackle a "big un", wait and do a few less important locos, as you will continually improve... And what you thought was great when you first did it, will still have things you wish you'd done differently six months later.

 

Scott

[Jason T]

A good discussion to cover the lack of "layout action".....

 

I'd love to be proficient at weathering my rolling stock and I'm not the least bit concerned about "ruining" a £10 wagon. So Jason, I'll certainly take you up on your offer of a bit of "tuition". Btw, are you using thinned down enamels in the airbrush? I've only seen people using airbrushes with acrylics, to date.

 

In the meantime I'll proceed to buy my Brit. I wanted the sound model anyway and, relatively speaking, at the price it's a giveaway.

 

Jeff

 

Yep, I use thinned enamels because they are easy to remove afterwards. For the airbrush, the paint / thinners mix should be the consistency of milk.

 

The three basic colours are worth having in stock anyway:

Matt Leather - 62

Gunmetal Metalcode - 27004

Matt Black - 33

[Physicsman]

Yep, I use thinned enamels because they are easy to remove afterwards. For the airbrush, the paint / thinners mix should be the consistency of milk.

 

The three basic colours are worth having in stock anyway:

Matt Leather - 62

Gunmetal Metalcode - 27004

Matt Black - 33

 

Cheers Jason.

 

I look forward to having some first-hand demos of airbrushing - I'm sure I can provide a wagon or two for you to work on!

 

Only a month or so until your move, so things will be starting to get chaotic....?

 

Jeff