RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted November 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2012 Scott. Re. your post 1275. I'm guessing you are referring to this... Jeff, I read somewhere that some folks fill overlarge gaps between rail ends with two-part epoxy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted November 6, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2012 Jeff, I read somewhere that some folks fill overlarge gaps between rail ends with two-part epoxy. Interesting that you mention this because I'd read something similar a while back - and couldn't remember what material was used. If anyone else wishes to chip in - especially if you've actually done this - please do. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted November 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2012 Certainly used to be the traditional method. Perhaps something better nowadays? I have always thought that epoxy would set too hard and not allow enough for expansion. That may not be an issue for Jeff in a well-insulated building. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold beast66606 Posted November 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2012 Re rail gaps - Plasticard shims, they can be worked to the correct profile easily, a touch of super glue will hold them in place, a sharp tap will knock them off if needed. Epoxy is not so good at taking paint. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted November 6, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2012 Certainly used to be the traditional method. Perhaps something better nowadays? I have always thought that epoxy would set too hard and not allow enough for expansion. That may not be an issue for Jeff in a well-insulated building. Joseph - you just made me laugh! The layout is in a converted double garage which is adjacent to, but not joined to, the house. Before I converted it, the temperature range inside the building was around - 5C to + 25C. This summer the temperature remained almost steady, night and day, whatever the weather, at around 18 - 20C. However, I left a quarter of the building uninsulated, in its original state for garden storage. Currently, the door area between the two areas has no door - haven't fitted one yet. Consequently, my lovely insulated room tends to cool down: 6C this morning. With the heater on it's still a pleasant environment, but I must do something about that door! Btw, the expansion coefficient for Nickel-Silver is around 0.017mm per degree C temperature change per metre length. So a temperature swing of 20C would change a metre length by about 0.3mm. I've tried to include 1mm gaps along the way, though the occasional 2mm appears. Shock horror - I can cope with that! Jeff 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted November 6, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2012 Re rail gaps - Plasticard shims, they can be worked to the correct profile easily, a touch of super glue will hold them in place, a sharp tap will knock them off if needed. Epoxy is not so good at taking paint. Cheers - again - Dave. Question: what's a shim? Is it like the rodding (square cross section) I used on my viaduct? Btw, hope you got Windows 8 sorted. I bought a laptop with Windows 7 in July, and I'm quite happy to make do with that for the foreseeable future! Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold beast66606 Posted November 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2012 Cheers - again - Dave. Question: what's a shim? Is it like the rodding (square cross section) I used on my viaduct? Btw, hope you got Windows 8 sorted. I bought a laptop with Windows 7 in July, and I'm quite happy to make do with that for the foreseeable future! Jeff Cheers Jeff, I work in IT support so PCs don't worry me, but Windows 8 does not fit in with my way of using them so out it goes. A shim is just a piece of plasticard bridging the gap, a filler if you will. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukebox Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Jeff, this is a Code 70 Shinohara (DCC-unfriendly) I made DCC ready by (amongst other things) gapping the frog with a razor saw. I then cut some 5mm squares of black plasticard and Araldited™ them in place. Once the glue was dry, I used a sharp scalpel to shave the card back to the shape of the rail head. Et voilà! Just like an electrofrog! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted November 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2012 Joseph - you just made me laugh! The layout is in a converted double garage which is adjacent to, but not joined to, the house. Before I converted it, the temperature range inside the building was around - 5C to + 25C. This summer the temperature remained almost steady, night and day, whatever the weather, at around 18 - 20C. However, I left a quarter of the building uninsulated, in its original state for garden storage. Currently, the door area between the two areas has no door - haven't fitted one yet. Consequently, my lovely insulated room tends to cool down: 6C this morning. With the heater on it's still a pleasant environment, but I must do something about that door! Btw, the expansion coefficient for Nickel-Silver is around 0.017mm per degree C temperature change per metre length. So a temperature swing of 20C would change a metre length by about 0.3mm. I've tried to include 1mm gaps along the way, though the occasional 2mm appears. Shock horror - I can cope with that! Jeff Always pleased to get a laugh. I just recall the early part of this thread and the amount of work that you put into making the railway room. I had not considered that there might be a door missing. Obviously, as a physicist, you are well placed to know about expansion co-efficients. But some layouts seem to have had problems with lower temperature variables that that. 1mm gap should be plenty. It is, after all, equivalent to a 3" gap! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted November 6, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2012 (edited) Always pleased to get a laugh. I just recall the early part of this thread and the amount of work that you put into making the railway room. I had not considered that there might be a door missing. Obviously, as a physicist, you are well placed to know about expansion co-efficients. But some layouts seem to have had problems with lower temperature variables that that. 1mm gap should be plenty. It is, after all, equivalent to a 3" gap! I'm glad you've been following the thread Joseph. And you would assume - wouldn't you - that after all that work, I'd fit an internal door! I left a gap/frame for one, but it's never been fitted as I thought it would get in the way when moving boards and wood in and out. Now, in November, I wish I'd fitted the damn thing! You make a good point about the gap that I hadn't thought about. Yes, 1mm is only 3" in real-life... not too big! I've just fitted cork to the top of the viaduct, so by tea-time there should be a viaduct fixed in place with a mainline going over it. And Peter (P.C.M) if you're watching, there'll be a loco posed on the top - but it won't be a 9F. Readers have a choice of 4MT 4-6-0, 5MT 4-6-0, Jubilee, Peaks class 44 or 45 or class 37 (all diesels in green). If you want to make a nomination, I'll use the most nominated one when I come to "striking the pose"!! An offer you can't refuse! Jeff Edited November 6, 2012 by Physicsman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted November 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 6, 2012 (edited) I've just fitted cork to the top of the viaduct, so by tea-time there should be a viaduct fixed in place with a mainline going over it. And Peter (P.C.M) if you're watching, there'll be a loco posed on the top - but it won't be a 9F. Readers have a choice of 4MT 4-6-0, 5MT 4-6-0, Jubilee, Peaks class 44 or 45 or class 37 (all diesels in green). If you want to make a nomination, I'll use the most nominated one when I come to "striking the pose"!! An offer you can't refuse! Jeff It has to be either the Black Five or 'Jubilee' - after all it is supposed to be a model of the S&C route (every time I come across S&C in any thread I immediately think of pointwork having grown up - debatable I know - on the Western where 'S&C' meant 'switch & crossing'). Edited November 6, 2012 by The Stationmaster 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted November 6, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2012 (edited) Cheers Scott. I like the unobtrusive look of the black plastikard - so may try this kind of thing (as suggested by Dave (Beast) and you) if needed. I will show my ignorance here - I didn't know you could buy black plastikard! Jeff PS. Do you get commission for acknowledging Araldite (oops, sorry, AralditeTM) as a trade-marked product? Lol! Jeff Edited November 6, 2012 by Physicsman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allegheny1600 Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 I've just fitted cork to the top of the viaduct, so by tea-time there should be a viaduct fixed in place with a mainline going over it. And Peter (P.C.M) if you're watching, there'll be a loco posed on the top - but it won't be a 9F. Readers have a choice of 4MT 4-6-0, 5MT 4-6-0, Jubilee, Peaks class 44 or 45 or class 37 (all diesels in green). If you want to make a nomination, I'll use the most nominated one when I come to "striking the pose"!! An offer you can't refuse! Despite my being a (green) diesel man myself, in the interests of 'proper' S&C - I think you should pose a Jubilee then see how 'popular' that is!!! Gotta be worth 10 points at least! He, he! Cheers, John E. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted November 6, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2012 Just to keep you posted, the photos below show the current state-of-play. Track has been laid onto the viaduct and the PVA is drying. When the glue has cured I'll put the loco onto the viaduct and take more pics...whichever loco it will be! Jeff 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aberdare Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Hi Jeff The whole thing is looking good now and you have made quick progress in getting the track down. Look forward to seeing a loco on the viaduct, steam preferably, I'm not bothered by which one as I always imagine a Duke or River class with some chocolate & cream clerestories on the top of such structures. Look forward to further posts. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted November 6, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2012 Coincidence or what? I've just put a post onto your thread at almost the same time you posted here! Freaky!! I'll leave the glue for a couple more hours then go out later with a loco. Only 2 people have made specific requests. So it'll be a Jubilee heading on the down into the station and, just maybe, a Black 5 could be heading on the up, towards the fiddle yard.... You'll have to imagine the scenery and rolling stock, I'm afraid!!!! Jeff 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 (edited) Seeing as there is a wide temperature varance in your railway room Jeff, it is safer to go for gaps. They might looks wide now in Winter but they'll sure as heck close up come hot summer. This was my transfer yard on an old layout..... .....Then one Sunday morning I went into the shed to find this... I had concentrated on getting the fishplated curve right and overlooked the lack of rail gaps. They're important, besides they add to the clickety-click! PS: S'pose I'de better not mention the cambered track.... Edited November 6, 2012 by coachmann 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted November 6, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2012 Well said Larry. The change in length of Nickel-Silver track is quite small but it's plain stupidity to butt the end of one piece against the end of the next. To be honest, although the gaps are there, you don't notice them unless you deliberately look. Your photos above beautifully illustrate the consequences! Btw, I won't mention camber if you don't!! Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted November 6, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2012 Ok, here is 45562 Jubilee "Alberta" heading into the station with a very light load and no driver! 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aberdare Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Love that first pic Jeff, it really does show how good your completed layout will look. Keep up the good standard of work. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 (edited) Ok, here is 45562 Jubilee "Alberta" heading into the station with a very light load and no driver! ........As they do.......No silly H&S ideas getting in the way of operating practices in those days haha.... Seriously though, that viaduct looks the business close up. 'Alberta' was the very last Jubilee I saw and photographed. Edited November 6, 2012 by coachmann 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelW Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Hi Jeff, You really are making good progress with the track laying, the photos of the viaduct really do show the care you're putting into the layout. I'm still impressed with the finish you've got on the stonework, the first picture really does look good! Almost enough to make me try something slightly simpler... How are you getting on with the in-fill sleepers? Any chance of on overall view once you've completed them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted November 7, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 7, 2012 Hi Jeff, You really are making good progress with the track laying, the photos of the viaduct really do show the care you're putting into the layout. I'm still impressed with the finish you've got on the stonework, the first picture really does look good! Almost enough to make me try something slightly simpler... How are you getting on with the in-fill sleepers? Any chance of on overall view once you've completed them? Hi Michael, I've fitted about 45 infill sleepers. I still have to paint them - at the moment they stand out like copper beacons! I'll try and take a couple of photos for you in the morning - and if they are half-decent I'll PM them to you. More work on the curves off the far side of the viaduct tomorrow. I've now spent 3 weeks fitting the track down. Quite enjoyable, though my friends can't believe it's anything but tedious! Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mythocentric Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Hi Jeff That viaduct looks magnificent! Well worth the effort and care you've put into it. And topping it off with a Jubilee (my all-time favourite loco class). You've just made my day! Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted November 7, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 7, 2012 Hi Jeff That viaduct looks magnificent! Well worth the effort and care you've put into it. And topping it off with a Jubilee (my all-time favourite loco class). You've just made my day! Bill Hee hee... glad to be of service Bill. Must admit, Alberta does look in fine fettle on top of the viaduct. Beautiful locos. Maybe I ought to buy another one!! Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now