georgeT Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Yes Mate its a resin body and floor, all you have to do is add the wheels and under floor detail, looks good... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Yes Mate its a resin body and floor, all you have to do is add the wheels and under floor detail, looks good... Sounds like one that even I could do, but I'd probably still get the wheels the wrong way round, haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 The JLTRT resin wagon kits do go together easily. But the buffers need a lot of fettling to get them to work. You may also want to check the buffer spacing. It's wrong on a lot of early JLTRT kits. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 The JLTRT resin wagon kits do go together easily. But the buffers need a lot of fettling to get them to work. You may also want to check the buffer spacing. It's wrong on a lot of early JLTRT kits. Hi Kev, l have checked the buffer spacing and you are spot on they are quite a bit out so l will fill them in and start new holes, l will replace the buffer with better ones, thanks.... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Hello George, the next time your after some handrail knobs have a look on Bill's (Premier Components) web site 10 for £2.00. What is the bogie bolster? OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 Hello OzzyO, l will be ordering another motor from bill for my 02, l will get some handrail knobs at the same time, the bogie bolster is from Connoisseur... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Enjoyed building the JLTRT mink, but didn't realize it was one of the early kits, and found a few problems en route, the buffers were not in the right place and needed the holes filled and re drilled and most of the castings needed a lot of cleaning up and some were broken, trouble with flea bay ?, still after a lot of work ll am very pleased with the outcome just need to fit the door catches to the sides and paint GWR dark grey, 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 That looks a nice size Van mate, will it have G W Lettering on the sides as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Hello Buddy, Yes it will have GW on the sides and painted dark freight grey with a white roof.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian G Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Those buffers look well good its a shame they don't sell them separately. Ian G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Hello lan, They are hard work to get them right, but the end result is well worth it..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Building a Parkside Dundas GWR 12ton Fruit van for the collection, but l have put it together different to what l normally do and that is to build the body and add the roof separate, then build the chassis on its own, much easier to paint with no masking to worry about... 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Interesting idea, George! Will you glue the 'bits' together when it's painted or rely on a snug fit? Regards, Deano. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 GW wagons are nice to paint you only clean the airbrush once unless it's a van with a white roof. Looks like you're enjoying your model making again George. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Hello Deano, lts a nice snug fit so l don't think l will have to glue ? l have just completed the JLTRT GWR mink, thats where l got the idea from and thats a nice fit too, l think its a case of careful handling, Hahahaha... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 GW wagons are nice to paint you only clean the airbrush once unless it's a van with a white roof. Looks like you're enjoying your model making again George. Hello Peter, Yes its full steam ahead, l think doing something different like some GW has given me the boost l needed... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 I might just try it with the next plastic wagon build. I have a few brass ones to build too, and with some thought I'm sure the same could be done?! Regards, Deano. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 That Wagon's looking very neat George, your ability to ignore the plans and still get a good job done, well done mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Those buffers look well good its a shame they don't sell them separately. Ian G Hi Ian, Have you asked? I got the impression when talking to Laurie at Telford last year that they would sell castings from any of their kits and that you just had to email for a list of castings, decide what you wanted and Laurie would work out a price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 For as long as l remember l have used the airbrush for painting my models, but all the mixing and cleaning had put me off doing it all again after a few years away from spraying, so l thought l would give the rattle can another try, (l tried them years ago and they were a disaster for me anyway) so while at Stafford on Sunday l bought two cans of Railmatch 1604 GWR Freight Grey & 1233 BR Bauxite and l must say l'm well impressed, First l gave the wagons a red primer and then two light coats of the Bauxite brown next l will give a coat of Gloss to apply the transfers then a nice coat of Satin varnish to seal and finish the wagons, so from now on l will only use the airbrush to lightly weather my stock.... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Like you George I have used an airbrush for ever, but usually only for weathering and occasionally for coach painting. A couple of weeks ago a friend pointed out that I don't have a pressure regulator on my compressor. On his advice I fitted one and the results have been transformational. I mostly use acrylics, which work fine for brush painting goods stock. The other day I airbrush painted a container BR Maroon with Phoenix enamel and the finish was excellent. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Hi George, I am just the opposite. Once I discovered that you don't get anywhere near the spray dust from the airbrush that you do from rattlecans I stopped using them and use acrylics through the air brush exclusively these days. One thing that I found recently is that if you fill a bowl with hot water and after initially rinsing the thicker paint from the cup that dipping the airbrush in the bowl and spraying for 5 mins or so get's virtually everything out of the air brush making further cleaning up much easier. That wouldn't work for enamels of course. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Good evening John & Rob, l take all of your points and tips and l agree, but as l have said l normally use the airbrush for everything l paint, but its all the mess you have to clean up after its use, yes l agree the rattle cans are not as subtle as the airbrush but with practice you can get the rattle can to do a fine mist from a distance and give the model 2-3 light coats to build up the colour, l have used acrylics through the airbrush many times but l found the finish is normally very soft and not as hard as enamels, also l find that there are not very many railway colours in acrylics as there are with enamels, l have tried the Railmatch acrylics and found the finish to be not as good as their enamels (maybe its me) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Good evening John & Rob, l take all of your points and tips and l agree, but as l have said l normally use the airbrush for everything l paint, but its all the mess you have to clean up after its use, yes l agree the rattle cans are not as subtle as the airbrush but with practice you can get the rattle can to do a fine mist from a distance and give the model 2-3 light coats to build up the colour, l have used acrylics through the airbrush many times but l found the finish is normally very soft and not as hard as enamels, also l find that there are not very many railway colours in acrylics as there are with enamels, l have tried the Railmatch acrylics and found the finish to be not as good as their enamels (maybe its me) Are you bringing them down for the MASTER to examine and pass judgment tomorrow mate, hahahha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Good evening John & Rob, l take all of your points and tips and l agree, but as l have said l normally use the airbrush for everything l paint, but its all the mess you have to clean up after its use, yes l agree the rattle cans are not as subtle as the airbrush but with practice you can get the rattle can to do a fine mist from a distance and give the model 2-3 light coats to build up the colour, l have used acrylics through the airbrush many times but l found the finish is normally very soft and not as hard as enamels, also l find that there are not very many railway colours in acrylics as there are with enamels, l have tried the Railmatch acrylics and found the finish to be not as good as their enamels (maybe its me) Hi George, I hear you on the point about not many acrylic railway colours. Railmatch do a few and Humbrol do a few but I must admit I don't tend to use either much. I use Vallejo acrylics for the simple reason that I have access to shops that sell them and they are great paints. They are a bit like Games workshop paints in so much as some of them have strange names (as an example I use Vallejo Game Colour "Dark Fleshtones" for bauxite and "Flat Earth for LNER coaching stock brown). They also do a range that are ready thinned for spraying for those that are not confident in mixing their own. I must admit I tend to mix my own because it works out cheaper and I am from that side of the Pennines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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