chaz Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) Some brush painting on the five vans that I have on the go. Two coats of Phoenix Precision P127 - BR freight wagon bauxite.... ...and a first coat of Railmatch 403 - roof dirt. I find Railmatch paints rather greasy and with poor covering power - but a second coat goes on much better. When brush painting matte colours I find it difficult to get a really flat finish, usually there are brush marks showing faintly in the surface - probably caused by the flatting agent. However these will be disappear under later weathering and matte varnish (Dullcote). Setting up for painting the buffer beams on the Slater's BR van... van on a wood block cardboard box to rest hand whilst brushing illuminated magnifier in place cushion on chair to gain a bit of height Next step must be to finish the three JLTRT underframes... Chaz . Edited February 23, 2016 by chaz 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 breathing.... I need to replace my aged illuminated magnifier. the "leg" failed and frankly it was more effort than it was worth to try to repair it, so despite it both illuminating and magnifying, it has gone to the tip. suggestions welcome! best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) breathing.... I need to replace my aged illuminated magnifier. the "leg" failed and frankly it was more effort than it was worth to try to repair it, so despite it both illuminating and magnifying, it has gone to the tip. suggestions welcome! best Simon Breathing...??? Why not get one like mine? I replaced an anglepoise-style one that used circular fluorescent tubes but these had become such poor quality that I was putting new ones in at an unsustainable rate. That new one has a circle of LEDs, which should last a while. The only down-side is that it doesn't have the reach of the old one and I often find I have to clear a place on the bench top for its base to get it into position. Chaz Edited February 23, 2016 by chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmudriver Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 breathing.... I need to replace my aged illuminated magnifier. the "leg" failed and frankly it was more effort than it was worth to try to repair it, so despite it both illuminating and magnifying, it has gone to the tip. suggestions welcome! best Simon Hi Simon. As it happens I've got one lying on the bed behind my modelling desk, looking for a home. It was replaced by the new rectangular one I bought a week ago. It's a Maplins one, which fixes to the ledge on the desk. If you'd like it, it's yours for the cost of postage. I'll get some photos later and PM you. Shame that an hour ago, I went to the local tip with a load of cardboard boxes that I thought I didn't need anymore!!! Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Chaz Breathing? You told me not to hold my breath... And what breed/make/model is your magnifier? Rod Thanks, very kind. I'll consider the options and get back to you if I may Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmudriver Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 RodThanks, very kind. I'll consider the options and get back to you if I mayBestSimon No problem, Simon. Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 Chaz Breathing? You told me not to hold my breath... And what breed/make/model is your magnifier? Rod Thanks, very kind. I'll consider the options and get back to you if I may Best Simon carry on with the breathing - it's good for you. I bought my magnifier from Railroom Electronics at a show... http://www.railroomelectronics.co.uk/Tools/Magnifier-Lamps/Page1.aspx ...second item on the page. in fact Sue was so impressed with it I bought a second one for her as a pressy. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 (edited) This morning with Peter's help I set up baseboard BC (the one with Peco Y point on it) and did some tests. First some checks of the gauge - the gauge was consistently 32mm or slightly over except at the blade ends when the point was set to the RH route when it was 31.3mm. Some thorough checking showed the following... The point blade was not seating correctly in the joggle in the stock rail... ...because there was a gap in the joint. Adjusting the wire on the Tortoise with a gentle bend has made it push the tie-bar towards the crossing, closing the gap. The blade end now seats correctly against the stock rail - eliminating the gauge pinch. Numerous test runs back and forth, at varying speeds, provoked not a single derailment - indeed the pony wheels showed not slightest bump; either vertically or sideways. In fact it could have been running on plain track. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddrxeE38ttQ&feature=youtu.be I have my fingers crossed that it performs as well at the next show. Chaz Edited February 25, 2016 by chaz 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John R Smith Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Well done, Chris. I have been doing some fairly intensive evaluation of these Peco turnouts myself, and this is one very weak point in their design. The only thing holding the blades in alignment is that pathetic little rail joiner. On the one I am testing I have soldered a stiff wire from one side to the other of the joiner to - 1. Provide reliable electrical continuity, and 2. To keep the rails in alignment and prevent the switch blade wandering off, like yours. More mods are following to deal with problems through the crossing. Regards, John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Another derailment problem that needs sorting out... My Ixion Hudswell Clarke doesn't like running bunker first down the approx' 1 in 30 gradient on Dock Green. Sometimes it derails in spectacular fashion with all six wheels ending up off the track. I checked the track and could find nothing wrong - no lumps of ballast, no bad joints or variations in cross level. I turned the loco over to check the B to Bs - these proved to be pretty much spot on. However the rear axle has a fair amount of vertical play, which doesn't appear to have any control - no springing. The loco doesn't derail anywhere else so I can only suggest that the "loose" rear axle gets a bit confused on the grade. I will remove and swap round the couplings so that the loco faces the other way, which will mean that it runs down the grade chimney first. A full test must wait until the next show. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John R Smith Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Chris That's the obvious thing to do, try the loco the other way around. If it's any consolation, derailments are (or were) quite common on the full-size railway - it's just that they usually happen in yards and no passengers are involved, so nobody ever hears about them. At Newton Abbot we had a class 45 off the road twice in two weeks just behind our shunter's cabin. And a few weeks later I noticed an 08 in the ballast at catch points in Marsh Mills yard. Lots of fun for the re-railing gang . . . John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Chris That's the obvious thing to do, try the loco the other way around. If it's any consolation, derailments are (or were) quite common on the full-size railway - it's just that they usually happen in yards and no passengers are involved, so nobody ever hears about them. At Newton Abbot we had a class 45 off the road twice in two weeks just behind our shunter's cabin. And a few weeks later I noticed an 08 in the ballast at catch points in Marsh Mills yard. Lots of fun for the re-railing gang . . . John "If it's any consolation, derailments are (or were) quite common on the full-size railway" Quite so, John, and you are right, more likely in back-water yards with indifferent trackwork; but they are really embarrassing on an exhibition layout. I hate it when locos stall, or won't restart without a prod, and derailments are a real PITA. I have done my best to get the layout and stock to the point where these events are rare - I'm sure the odd accident is inevitable but I want most moves to be smooth and realistic. As I have said before I turn away disappointed when a layout I am watching at a show operates poorly - I don't want people viewing DG to do the same. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 I got the Dingham couplings out of the slots in the Hudswell Clarke's buffer beams with some gentle wiggling and pulling. Luckily they were glued in place with ten-minute Araldite rather than the 24 hour big-daddy version. The quick set stuff seems to cure softer and is therefore easier to worry free. Talking of worry there may be a problem fitting the loop coupling to the rear end of the loco' as its bunker overhangs the buffer beam. I will report back on this later. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Another derailment problem that needs sorting out... My Ixion Hudswell Clarke doesn't like running bunker first down the approx' 1 in 30 gradient on Dock Green. Sometimes it derails in spectacular fashion with all six wheels ending up off the track. I checked the track and could find nothing wrong - no lumps of ballast, no bad joints or variations in cross level. I turned the loco over to check the B to Bs - these proved to be pretty much spot on. However the rear axle has a fair amount of vertical play, which doesn't appear to have any control - no springing. The loco doesn't derail anywhere else so I can only suggest that the "loose" rear axle gets a bit confused on the grade. I will remove and swap round the couplings so that the loco faces the other way, which will mean that it runs down the grade chimney first. A full test must wait until the next show. Chaz Chaz, There should be springs in the chassis casting bearing down on the rear axle. Lift out the rear axle to see if they are present. If not, I will have a rummage through Ixion's equivalent of Dai Woodham's for some replacements. Regards, Chris Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 I got the Dingham couplings out of the slots in the Hudswell Clarke's buffer beams with some gentle wiggling and pulling. Luckily they were glued in place with ten-minute Araldite rather than the 24 hour big-daddy version. The quick set stuff seems to cure softer and is therefore easier to worry free. Talking of worry there may be a problem fitting the loop coupling to the rear end of the loco' as its bunker overhangs the buffer beam. I will report back on this later. Chaz Any chance of some photos of how they fit? I've got to do my Hudswell Clarke when I get round to fitting Dinghams. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted February 26, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 26, 2016 I'm glad too hear that you have got to the root cause of the derailing problem and cured it. (fingers crossed). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Chaz Good to see you tracked it down, and that it was an easy fix. The close-up of the track, with bright rail tops, rusty rail sides & chairs, and oily muck in the middle is very "believable". Sometimes focussing on a very small area can give some insights. I have these aspects filed away for the (hopefully near) future when I start on my shed layout. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 Chaz ....The close-up of the track, with bright rail tops, rusty rail sides & chairs, and oily muck in the middle is very "believable"..... Simon Thanks for that comment. I must say that the Grand Canyon between the open blade and the stock rail is rather less "believable". However the compromise is forced on those of us who decided (for whatever reason) to use Peco track rather than make our own. I am grateful that there is a Peco 7mm range available. Chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 The Engineer in me wants to experiment - having located and repaired the track issue, and proven that the loco then behaved, did you then re-create the track misalignment and prove that it fell off once more? This would be the normal course of action (ability turn the failure on and off at will proves you really have found the root cause) in the Automotive world in which I have spent most of my working life - it may be considered overkill in a model railway, but I'd still like to know And I went back to look at the track photo, and you're right, it is a chasm of extraordinary proportions, and yet I had completely missed/ignored it before. Eye of the beholder, I guess. best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 The Engineer in me wants to experiment - having located and repaired the track issue, and proven that the loco then behaved, did you then re-create the track misalignment and prove that it fell off once more? This would be the normal course of action (ability turn the failure on and off at will proves you really have found the root cause).... Simon Simon - thanks for that. I understand the point you are making and can see the merit in your approach BUT don't forget that I "fixed" the problem once before, without doing anything to the Y point, by adjusting the springs above the pony truck. Repeated test runs back and forth "proved" that the fault was eliminated only for it to re-appear at the next show. At the time any suggestion that I should restore the springs to their previous, slacker state for the purpose you outline would have been greeted with an anglo-saxon reply! In any case on both occasions before I made any changes I made a few test runs over the Y point with the N7 and could not provoke a derailment (of course we didn't have any visitors watching). So, no, I must hope the problem is dealt with. I will give 69727 a stint as yard pilot at the next show. If it performs without a problem fine, if not one of the 0-6-0Ts can take over. I could just admit defeat and restrict the N7 to use as a train engine, which duty would not involve crossing point #2 - but that's not really my style! Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 In the past, when I've needed to teach point blades 'manners', I've cut a couple of nickel silver strips to make fish-plates, drilled them in the four bolt positions, and then drilled through the rails using one of them as a jig (drilling one at a time...). I put short lengths of N/s wire through the holes and soldered them to the fish plates, thus restraining the switch rail (and also replicating 'fish-plates' and bolts at the same time). Just a thought, should it happen again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 As they say Chaz, "time will tell." Pleased it is solved for now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 Chaz, There should be springs in the chassis casting bearing down on the rear axle. Lift out the rear axle to see if they are present. If not, I will have a rummage through Ixion's equivalent of Dai Woodham's for some replacements. Regards, Chris Ah, yes. I think I have found out why my Hudswell Clarke doesn't like running down the grade! Taking the keeper plate off and lifting out the rear axle has revealed a spring on one side, nothing on the other. That might explained why, when rolling down a steepish grade, it fell off. But only sometimes.... Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 In the past, when I've needed to teach point blades 'manners', I've cut a couple of nickel silver strips to make fish-plates, drilled them in the four bolt positions, and then drilled through the rails using one of them as a jig (drilling one at a time...). I put short lengths of N/s wire through the holes and soldered them to the fish plates, thus restraining the switch rail (and also replicating 'fish-plates' and bolts at the same time). Just a thought, should it happen again. Thanks for that idea. Presumably if you are doing this to a Peco point you remove the rail-joiner thingy first? I doubt if I will need to do this - I think the Springiness of the piano wire I am using (thicker gauge than that supplied with a Tortoise) should keep the joints closed up. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 Spent a very pleasant day at the Oasis Academy at Lordshill in Southampton as a guest driver on DLT's Bridport Town, a lovely looking NG layout and a joy to operate. I met with Chris Klein who gave me a poly' bag containing a couple of minute coil springs for the Hudswell Clarke's rear axle, so that should be back in sevice before the next show. He's a very nice man! Purchases? just the one which I couldn't resist... TAXI! Chaz 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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