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Hi Steve

 

Many thanks for your kind words, I am with you 100% on the track issue.

 

I have looked at both options and I think SMP Track would be the easier option for me as I do not feel confident in making up my own point work.

 

I have one room to decorate for she who must be obeyed, then it's down to plotting the overall layout on baseboards.

 

Regards

 

David

 

I have just discovered this post and have spent the last half hour following your progress.

You have done a fantastic job and it brings back many memories of Sats spent around the place.

Apart from the A4s.. 12 & 24 always seemed to be on shed.. Hyperion Blenheim and Book Law were regulars.

The last time I saw Cicero was when it arrived at Waverley in filthy condition with the Queen of Scots Pullman in tow.

It had probably replaced a failed diesel as it was a regular Deltic turn at that time..'62.

Back to your project..it is outstanding.

On the track work..please don't compromise this fabulous shed with anything other than finescale track.

I would go for C&L and considering the skills you have shown so far I really wouldn't think you would have much trouble in turning out hand built points.

Have go and I bet after a couple of attempts you will be very pleasantly surprised at your results..not only will they do your layout justice and be accurate for the trackplan they will be a fraction of the cost of ready built.

Check out the excellent threads on this..also read the 4mmSF thread to make sure you obtain the correct gauges etc especially check rail plus of course Templot. 

As nothing will be passing through shed points at high speed even if one or two  are a little out it is unlikely that it will matter too much.

Again well done.

 

Dave

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Hi Dave

 

Many thanks for your very kind words of encouragement, it´s great to hear stories of Haymarket Shed in steam days from people like yourself who actually visit the MPD. 

 

I know you are quite right when it comes to the track layout, I will have a look at the 4mmSF thread as I was not aware of it thanks for the information.

 

Regards

 

David

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Hi Dave

 

Many thanks for your very kind words of encouragement, it´s great to hear stories of Haymarket Shed in steam days from people like yourself who actually visit the MPD. 

 

I know you are quite right when it comes to the track layout, I will have a look at the 4mmSF thread as I was not aware of it thanks for the information.

 

Regards

 

David

 

David one thing to bear in mind ..the thread on 4mmSF is comprehensive and good reading as it gives a good insight into most aspects of fine scale track building and the difference between the fine scale standards however it also raises plenty questions regarding the 16.2 - 16.5 debate.

We hand build our points to 16.5 fine scale with the correct flangways but leave the overall gauge 16.5 and have found it perfect for most stock from kit built to rtr Hornby / Bachmann etc.

The area gets clouded with these issues and then they throw DOGA into the mix!.

All a but confusing to know what to settle on but all would probably run what you ask..but thought I would advise that Alloa which is a large intensively run finescae layout is gauged at 16.5

Points are directly soldered to copperclad track is C&L.

Attached a few pics which show the pleasing effect.. also the lack of chairs on the points doesn't show after ballasting with the soldered construction however in a shed area where there is no ballast it might be good to consider construction using chairs.

Either way i am sure you will complete the track work to do the buildings justice.

Great work

Dave.

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Thanks Dave

 

You talk about great work your photos above are absolutely amazing thank you for posting them, is that your own layout or a club layout?

 

The thought of track work at the moment is a bit of a nightmare as its all new to me never having done any before, I will have to do quite a bit of reference work before I start fixing the track in place.

 

I know exactly what I want to do for Haymarket, but achieving it is a different storey.

 

Do you have your own layout thread, if so please let me know where to find it, if not feel free to post more of your layout photos on Haymarket it would be great to see some more.

 

Regards

 

David

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David

 

All is looking very good - I wish I had your building skills, but as was pointed out earlier within a shed environment you don;t see the sleepers and I'd go so far as to suggest that you could do a lot worse than Peco FInescale - I know it's not 'true' fine scale, but under a ton of ash no-one other than a real expert will notice.

 

I used Code 100 in the Waverley Shed , I know you're a regular visitor to that thread, and would really urge you to balance practicality, time and appearance - I've added in this shot of the shed area - it's a right mess of ballast, but I didn't even paint the rails, yet am very pleased with the effect.

On top of that being Code 100 just about everything in my toy box runs on it!

 

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ATB
 

Peter

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Hi Peter

 

Your layout looks very impressive indeed it really has progressed considerably, everyone seems to favour fine-scale track and it does look very realistic but as you say in a MPD layout most of the track work is covered by ash and clinker. so you do not see many of the sleepers.

 

Also the point work would be a problem as I do not have the skills to make my own and I dread to think how many points would be required to replicate the Haymarket track layout.

 

I do want to get the most authentic look possible for Haymarket 64B but I do have to consider cost as well as this layout is a long term project and there are many things still to make and complete not including the cost of adding to the existing locomotive fleet.

 

I do find all the replies I get from your good self and many other member are most helpful and certainly give me lot´s to consider.

 

Thank you again for your reply and enclosed photo.

 

Regards

 

David

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David you might be surprised at your hidden skills and it costs little to find out.

I would be feeling the same or probably more so if I was tasked with the job of building the 64B shed and coaling tower.

You obviously looked at the task in hand.. broke it down then started at the beginning methodically adding detail..and ended up with a great result.

Pointwork is similar…stick your template down with double sided tape and snip the copper clad sleepers to length and  place them on the plan.

Nothing hard about that..then start with the straight length of rail and solder it to the sleepers as per the plan and keep it straight with a straight edge.

Then comes the tricky part as in the point Vee but you can buy Vees if you feel the need.

You will of course need to have purchased gauges and remember the critical measurement for placing check rails is not the gap between them and the adjacent rail but the distance from the opposite running rail..again there is a gauge to keep this correct.

You will of course need to have decided on either 16.5 or the popularly talked about 16.2..we had built ours to 16.5 and it has run faultlessly with both rtr stock and kit built.

My preference is 16.5 purely because of our good experience of it working well but in your case either I am sure will be good although if you have short lengths of straight rail between points this will be 16.5 so your choice but I would trend to keep it all the same. 

Anyway there are loads of tutorials online but just make sure you pick the simplest to follow and avoid the multi chaired scale jobs..a true scale crossover will have many different types and lengths of chairs..ignore this for the time being and make do with a blob of solder…it will still look a million times better than the toylike appearance of ready built points with overlarge flange ways..the root of bad running..plus it will be much much cheaper.

You say you want the most authentic look possible..well once you have built one or two and the sky's the limit and you will be able to lay down track work with short and long and curved points to exactly fit your plans..not the other way about.

You also mention cost..a handbuilt copperclad point is a fraction the price of a Peco point so win win.

I might sound like I am an expert in this field but I am certainly not..I don't build the points on our layout as we have at least a couple of guys with better skills than me who do a great job and are obviously given this task.

I have watched them often enough though to have the confidence that I could hopefully produce something reasonable as really it isn't the black art many would suggest.

If you are reasonably competent with a soldering iron..and by that I mean can tack a bit of rail to a sleeper then you must at least try.

Next show you are at buy some rail and copper clad sleepers.

I think I mentioned C&L but the materials I have here for my own efforts are a pack of SMP Code 75 Bullhead (12 yards) plus SMP CCS4-FG 4mm PCB fibreglass sleeper strip 12" lengths and 18 per pack.

Also a box of SMP type J straight track in yard lengths to connect everything up.

Thats a lot of rail and track and would probably fit out your entire shed and at a fraction of the cost of Peco.

Winters coming and you can sit at the dining room table if you can convince the cat to leave a space and play around with a basic point to your hearts content and probability will costless than a quid..so if it goes in the bin as is likely then nothing lost..the next one will be better and by number four you will be proudly running a wagon back and forth across it.

Hope this helps.

Dave

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I love what you're doing with your layout David and having read Dave's input regarding track and have to agree with him. I wish I'd had the bottle to have a go with my 'Haymarket Cross' layout and if I was to do another I would certainly have a go.

I used Peco finescale code 75 which does look reasonably well when ballasted, I used N' gauge and after airbrushing with track grime etc it turned out well.

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Ian

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Thanks Dave

 

You talk about great work your photos above are absolutely amazing thank you for posting them, is that your own layout or a club layout?

 

The thought of track work at the moment is a bit of a nightmare as its all new to me never having done any before, I will have to do quite a bit of reference work before I start fixing the track in place.

 

I know exactly what I want to do for Haymarket, but achieving it is a different storey.

 

Do you have your own layout thread, if so please let me know where to find it, if not feel free to post more of your layout photos on Haymarket it would be great to see some more.

 

Regards

 

David

Hi David..no there isn't a layout thread and we don't have a website although we have exhibited all over the country with Alloa.

Reason for this lack of publicity is that we are not a club as such but only a very small group with 8 members and a few of country members..all like  minded modellers.

Alloa is modelled accurately on the original station in Scotlands central belt and depicts the era around 1960.

The layout was conceived and built with a nucleus of only 4 guys..I came later and was number 5 so didn't have a lot to do with the track and buildings.

We have been on the exhibition circuit every year since its first outing in 2008 and include apart from Glasgow..Doncaster/Wigan/Blyth/Stafford/Aylesbury/Warley plus a few shows north of the border.

We feel very fortunate in having been invited to what we see as some of the countries premier shows..a huge compliment for the guys and one which we are very grateful for.

We have had a lot of success with it and at the last outing which was last year at Warley we lifted the Bachmann cup against some fantastic competition..so someone must like it!..we also were awarded the Signalling Society award for best signalled layout. 

They do all work..even the repeaters that the public cant see!

Next show is Wakefield this November followed by the Modelrail Scotland 50th anniversary show at Glasgow in Feb.

We are at the moment laying down the baseboards for Son of Alloa..another central Scottish layout but this time mainline with loads of scope for east and west coast pacifics along with all the other WDs and Jumbos etc.

It will be larger than Alloa at over 40feet..Alloa is 34feet and should be a cracking exhibition layout with loads going on and one which will hopefully be invited south to re attend some of the great shows where we have already exhibited Alloa.  

I am sure I have posted pics in various threads like 'How realistic are your models' but if you click on my name/avatar and then Gallery there are good few in there.

Meantime a few that include images of our humble shed..not quite in the same league as 64B!

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The start of the new layout.

We will hopefully post on a new thread and keep it updated as it progresses meantime the 40 odd foot boards are complete and looking great.

A definite benefit in having a skilled joiner in your midst!

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Good morning Dave

 

Many thanks for taking the time to put all that track information down on this thread.

 

The first thing I must say is that I have never used a soldering iron in my life and there lies my main problem, also you have clearly exposed my ignorance in track building as I had no idea of cost´s.

 

With all the information you have given me which is as good as any tutorial and with Ian´s agreement as well  and I am a big fan of Haymarket Cross, I will certainly look much closer into SMP track and hand made point work. 

 

I am very lucky because Replica Railway´s are located in Swindon where I live and both Godfrey and his Son Gareth who run the company have also been of great help to me since I started Haymarket 64B three years ago, Gareth has always said I should go for SMP and I know he has good knowledge of it.

 

Also Dave, your Alloa layout even with it´s small shed is amazing, I don´t get to many Model Railway Exhibition's but I will certainly keep a look out for it in the future.

 

Many thanks to everyone who has taken the time to look at Haymarket 64B thread your input and suggestions are gratefully accepted and to an old new-comer to model Railways a big help as well. 

 

Regards

 

David

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David thanks for the kind words.

Just a thought..why don't you enlist the help of a fellow modeller to build your points for you?

Most layouts our own included rely on a few guys with differing skills.

You are obviously very skilled in creating the buildings and infrastructure which many would agree is probably the hardest part..I know more guys that can build points than turn out buildings like yours.

Its a difficult task to take on the buildings.. track.. electrics and so on and the normal way of things would be to enlist help.

I know you are doing this yourself but I am also sure there would be guys out there willing to lend a hand with the track to see this through  to completion…and you will undoubtedly make new friends and acquaintances too..what this great hobby is all about.

Another thought..theres bound to be someone out there that can build track but is struggling with their  buildings..perhaps a trade?

Our new project will be SMP as its performed faultlessly on the existing trainset for 7 years under exhibition conditions..good stuff indeed.

You also say you don't get to many shows..might I suggest you try and attend the next fairly big one or more importantly one that has demonstrators attending as apart from being able to sit down and watch points being put together..have the mysteries of soldering explained.. you will receive loads of great advice from skilled guys very willing to talk to you.

Plus you may end up with a contact to help out with the track as already suggested.

Its very rewarding doing this yourself I am sure but its probably even more so if you can share it with new like minded friends.

Give it a thought. 

Dave

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David,

 

I owe you an apology for my disappearance from this forum since April,  just as it looked as if an end might be coming in sight for my version of the Haymarket coaling tower.

 

I cannot easily believe that it has been so long,  but summer activities have obviously been rather absorbing.

 

Also thank you to Mr B for "liking" a post I made rather a long time ago.

 

The coaling tower is not forgotten.  I had reached something of a contretemps in thinking about how to represent the "base colour" of the concrete and,  to the extent that modelling has been taking place over the summer,  it has been diverted to narrow gauge - related activities in particular the painting of several buildings to represent various kinds of stonework.  This has done much to persuade me that  a large expanse of concrete just cannot be a seriously daunting prospect.  So I hope to make a re-start sometime in the next few weeks.

 

Delighted to see that progress continues on the (from a modeller's perspective) ancillary buildings on Haymarket 64B.  I must confess to surprise at the troubles found with the general offices -  I must read through the recent material with care to try to understand the better.

 

And thank you,  David,  for your steer about York Modelmaking:  I've been using them for windows and doors (simpler but more numerous than those for the Haymarket shed) and their product is great.  One point of general relevance:  I gather that it's drawing up the artwork which costs,  rather than production of numbers of units:  this may indicate the kind of task in which they are most economically employed.

 

 

auldreekie

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David,

 

I owe you an apology for my disappearance from this forum since April,  just as it looked as if an end might be coming in sight for my version of the Haymarket coaling tower.

 

I cannot easily believe that it has been so long,  but summer activities have obviously been rather absorbing.

 

Also thank you to Mr B for "liking" a post I made rather a long time ago.

 

The coaling tower is not forgotten.  I had reached something of a contretemps in thinking about how to represent the "base colour" of the concrete and,  to the extent that modelling has been taking place over the summer,  it has been diverted to narrow gauge - related activities in particular the painting of several buildings to represent various kinds of stonework.  This has done much to persuade me that  a large expanse of concrete just cannot be a seriously daunting prospect.  So I hope to make a re-start sometime in the next few weeks.

 

Delighted to see that progress continues on the (from a modeller's perspective) ancillary buildings on Haymarket 64B.  I must confess to surprise at the troubles found with the general offices -  I must read through the recent material with care to try to understand the better.

 

And thank you,  David,  for your steer about York Modelmaking:  I've been using them for windows and doors (simpler but more numerous than those for the Haymarket shed) and their product is great.  One point of general relevance:  I gather that it's drawing up the artwork which costs,  rather than production of numbers of units:  this may indicate the kind of task in which they are most economically employed.

 

 

auldreekie

Hi Auldreekie

 

Very nice to hear from you again, I did wonder what had happened to you especially after your excellent progress on your Haymarket coaling tower.

 

Perhaps you might be able to put some updated photos on the thread once you are in a position to.

 

I fully agree York Modelmaking Ltd have been very helpful to me with many of the building's I have produced so far for Haymarket and not only with doors and windows as well they have a very good range of building products as well.

 

I have just returned from a weeks holiday and a parcel arrived yesterday from York Modelkmaking Ltd enclosing sections made up from their Rowmark plastic product, these will form the glass conservatory type structure which was postioned on the north side of the shed masters general offices building

 

It was not easy to come up with a design as there are very few photos available showing any decent details.

 

You can see it in the background on page No 137 of Harry Knox's second Haymarket Book called  "Haymarket MPD Edinburgh A History of the Depot 1842-2010"

 

 

I have prepared and painted and put all the sections together to the best of my ability, it is now completed and fixed in place, I will take some photos and post them tomorrow.

 

Regards

 

David

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Good Morning All

 

I have taken a few photos of the additional progress I have made to the Shed Masters and General Offices building which now  incorporates the glass conservatory on the North side, this was made from sections specially made for me by York Modelmaking Ltd.

 

Also additional windows have now been fitted again obtained from York Modelmaking Ltd

 

Still work to do tying up the roof and adding chimney stacks and ridge tiles, also the roof will then be fixed to the main building and the whole thing will be weathered in due course.

 

These large photos do show up any defects and there are also gutters and RW downpipes to be fitted to hide any joints in the brick card.

 

The actual model does look a lot better than the photos show, but they do say the camera never lies?

 

Regards

 

David

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Good Morning All

 

I enclose a photo of a basic Hornby J83 Class, I have added a bit more detail and weathered it but is still remains a very basic model with moulded handrails.

 

I have thought about trying to remove and fit brass handrails but to be honest I am not sure I have the skills to carry out this small job.

 

I do not have a problem fitting the handrails it's the removing the plastic moulded handrails and making a good job of it is my problem

 

Photo below.

 

My question is does anyone know if you can buy a J83 in a white metal/Brass kit and if so who makes it.

 

Regards

 

David

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Eric spared me the need to respond on the J83.

 

As I remember,  a decent little model can be made from the GEM/Lytchett kit:  it's fairly "early cast whitemetal" (or it was so a few years ago),  so quite a lot of work is needed with a file and sandpaper,  as well as benefit to be had from working on the detail.  But whatever compromises it makes are less obvious than those in the Hornby moulding.  You have almost certainly twigged that the J83s sported a few detailed variations around such things as safety valves and their housings.

 

I really like your general admin building.  One point:  I find that chimneys on buildings are horribly vulnerable features,  so that it pays not to stick them on top of the roof,  but to make them into upward continuations of either external walls or internal partitions,  as appropriate (as - indeed - on the real thing).  And have you yet rumbled the range of 4mm chimney pots made by Peedie Models,  which are very useful in a Scottish context?

 

Whatever was the use made of that "conservatory",  I wonder........

 

 

 

auldreekie

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Hi

 

Many thanks to both Eric and Auldreekie for the information regarding the J83 Kit, I will have a look at the website.

 

Auldreekie

 

As I have already stated this general offices building has been more difficult for me to work out a design and build than the main engined shed ever was.

 

The chimney stacks are also a problem as well, so I welcome your information on Peedie models.

 

I have already had a go at building the stacks using plastic hollow tube sections and then it was my intension to clad them in brick paper card to match the building walls but they are so small and intricate that I will see if I can purchase some ready made resin or plastic ones, I will see what is available.

 

Regarding the conservatory maybe Eric may know as he visit Haymarket many time in steam days, but having said that the Shed Master was also located in this building and from my experiences as a trainspotters we use to avoid any official shed personal if we could and give their offices a wide berth.

 

I think maybe the conservatory was built to give a lot more natural light to the staff working in that part of the building or an area to sit in during lunch periods

 

Thanks again Guys for your input.

 

Regards

 

David.

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Chimneys:

 

The Peedie product is pots,  not stacks,  but they do those nice octagonal ones (NOT the crown tops beloved of gardeners) which are fairly commonplace in Scotland but not (in my observation) in the deep south.

 

I find the easiest way of making 4mm scale chimney stacks is just to laminate several thicknesses of styrene against the relevant wall,  encase the thing in styrene brickwork or stonework sheet (or I guess brickpaper card in your instance),  then cap off as appropriate,  put in any appropriate string courses made by cutting a course or however many out of the overlay,  glue on the hollow chimney pot and flash with miliput,  much as with cement in the real thing.  There's no need for the model chimney itself to be hollow,  unless you intend setting an actual fire in a fireplace within,  or employing a 4mm scale chimney sweep.

 

That way,  a really solid job results,  which will resist firmly any future inadvertent attempts at decapitation.  It's also easy to build them.  It must be:  I have 13 of them on the go right now.......

 

Just to strengthen your resolve,  a picture of a fair selection of my current thirteen chimneys in various states of production:

 

DSCF0742_zpskcqvnkz2.jpg

 

 

 

 

auldreekie

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Chimneys:

 

The Peedie product is pots,  not stacks,  but they do those nice octagonal ones (NOT the crown tops beloved of gardeners) which are fairly commonplace in Scotland but not (in my observation) in the deep south.

 

I find the easiest way of making 4mm scale chimney stacks is just to laminate several thicknesses of styrene against the relevant wall,  encase the thing in styrene brickwork or stonework sheet (or I guess brickpaper card in your instance),  then cap off as appropriate,  put in any appropriate string courses made by cutting a course or however many out of the overlay,  glue on the hollow chimney pot and flash with miliput,  much as with cement in the real thing.  There's no need for the model chimney itself to be hollow,  unless you intend setting an actual fire in a fireplace within,  or employing a 4mm scale chimney sweep.

 

That way,  a really solid job results,  which will resist firmly any future inadvertent attempts at decapitation.  It's also easy to build them.  It must be:  I have 13 of them on the go right now.......

 

Just to strengthen your resolve,  a picture of a fair selection of my current thirteen chimneys in various states of production:

 

DSCF0742_zpskcqvnkz2.jpg

 

 

 

 

auldreekie

Hi Auldreekie

 

Wow that's quite a few buildings you have on the go, they do look very impressive indeed.

 

Is there any chance of a close up photo of one of your chimney stacks.

 

Unfortunately the six chimney stacks on the general offices are eithe on the top ridge or on the roof pitch itself.

 

Thanks for posting the photo.

 

Regards

 

David

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I'll oblige with a photo as soon as I can get decent daylight conditions.

 

As to perching on the roof:  chimneys just don't.  Think about it!

 

But,  if you perch them on the roof of a model,  they do remain very vulnerable,  with concomitant risk of damaging the roof also.  I'd be surprised if you find a proprietary cast of a chimney stack which rings your bell,  simply because roofs vary in pitch,  so that a general purpose "perch on" stack wouldn't be feasible.  The simple way round  for chimneys which emerge from the ridge of a roof,  or through the pitch (which is unusual unless the chimney is on an external wall) is to insert a partition wall wherever there is to be a chimney (as is likely in reality - an indication of care to be taken in the siting of chimneys relative to what lies beneath),  then laminate the chimney on to an upward continuation of the partition wall.  The roof needs to have a hole cut in it to accommodate the chimney,  but this can be permitted to be a little imprecise,  because tiling and flashing will subsequently obscure the joint as in the real world.   Of course,  any projecting string course(s) or oversailing capstone need to be left off until the chimney has passed through the hole.  

 

 

auldreekie

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David,

 

On reflection,  all thirteen of the chimneys in the present "The Street" project are already clad,  painted and capped,  so that there's not much to be gained by taking another daylight picture,  although I shall have a look in the morning and see if anything clearly explanatory can be concocted out of what is to hand.

 

Meanwhile,  here are a couple of shots which,  if looked at closely,  demonstrate:  

 

-  the flashing round the pots (first picture,  in which the styrene roof is as yet un-slated,  and the thing above the clock is not a chimney but the base for a weather-cock - although similar considerations apply);  and, 

 

-   in the second picture,  the styrene 80 thou laminations lower down the interior of the end gable:  these are overlaid above by Slaters' "random stone" cladding (at the sides) and by SE Finecast  vac-formed "random rubble" on the inner face,  the visible bits of which have been painted to represent a mixture of red sandstone and whinstone rubble.

 

 

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DSCF0748_zpsqb6mrzna.jpg

 

 

auldreekie

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Further to post 448 in this thread, Lanarkshire Model Supplies (LMS) now have chimneys.  See post 103 here:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/97686-new-stuff-from-lanarkshire-models-supplies/page-5

 

Don't seem to be on the website yet.

 

J83 kit:

52F models kit:

http://52fmodels.sharepoint.com/Pages/J83.aspx

 

Business owner Peter Stanger has recently had a health scare, so I'm unsure of supply position.

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Further to post 448 in this thread, Lanarkshire Model Supplies (LMS) now have chimneys.  See post 103 here:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/97686-new-stuff-from-lanarkshire-models-supplies/page-5

 

Don't seem to be on the website yet.

 

J83 kit:

52F models kit:

http://52fmodels.sharepoint.com/Pages/J83.aspx

 

Business owner Peter Stanger has recently had a health scare, so I'm unsure of supply position.

Hi 26power

 

Many thanks for the information you have sent to me, the J83 kit looks stunning.

 

I have never built a model locomotive from a kit before so a J83 0-6-0 seemed to me to be a good option to begin with.

 

Regards

 

David

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